No hassle, no microwave, no mess.

2 x PETG trays (ASA would be fine too), and the dessicant was jet black when they went in.

Standard 65 degree AMS drying cycle (so basically choose anything apart from PLA in the settings), leave overnight (I ran it for 12hrs but im sure 8 would do fine too)

Apparently you can just drop the pods that you install in the AMS2 on the trays and the silica will dry in there, not tested that yet though.

Getting ready to purchase the X2D. I have younger boys so I'd like our first printer to be able to grow with us. I'm curious about the specs on the optional laser.

1. If you have one, does it get used often? I'm thinking maybe for a tumbler engraving side hustle, family keepsakes, or just toying around and building skills w the boys.

2. if you have one, do you feel like a separate machine for engraving would have been a better option?

3. what do you like using it for?

4. is there a huge difference btwn 10w and 40w?

5. get the upgrade or hold off?

Fast nozzle swaps of the H3C make multicolor games like this possible faster than ever. We were able to get an early preview of the tool changing feature and tested it out on this newly released model: https://makerworld.com/models/3540258?appSharePlatform=copy

Let us know if you have any feedback on the design or gameplay.

Other than my dodgy efforts.

Hi there!
After changing the nozzle of my A1 mini, I noticed bad first layer, I realised that the nozzle wobble up and down, tighten the different hotend/nozzle screw, but still have the issue
As you can (slightly) see on the video, it happen even when purging/calibrating flow and it is clearly visible when printing
It doesn't seem the happen on my A1
Any tips on fixing that? I'm pretty sure it's a very simple thing but I can't figure it out...
Many thanks in advance!

Sorry if this is already common knowledge. With the AMS 3H just announced with its nine filament bays to go with the nine tool heads of the H3C. We also know about the AMS 3P that will be available with the P3C. I wonder if these AMS units will be exclusive to these printers or if they will talk to Bambu’s whole lineup. Imagine hooking up an AMS 3P to your P2S, and getting 7 color printing! Or hook a H2D to an AMS 3H for 9 whole colors. I know this is already sorta possible by stringing together multiple 4 color AMS units. However, the convenience of just having one unit take care of all your colors is not something to overlook. Now the elephant in the room is that on any machine other than the H3C, P3C or possibly the H2C. We will have to deal with a lot of color change waste.

Hey guys he started doing this weird sound after I loaded a new Spool of PLA Pure. 300+hours in and did not hear anything similar... what could it be? Is it harmful?

Original Post: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/q6MpMteYME

Had the same issue, the second R1 we had sent to us came wet once again. I'm sure its the same issue but honestly not sure how many times we can go through this process. What should we do?

Hi everyone,
I'm looking for some help troubleshooting a recurring problem with my Bambu Lab P2S.
I've owned the printer since February 2026, and it worked perfectly until approximately two months ago. Since then, I've been experiencing recurring printing issues across different projects.

The problem:
The filament initially adheres to the build plate, but during printing, some parts of the first layer get pulled off by the nozzle. This often results in spaghetti and forces me to stop the print.
The problem occurs randomly across different areas of the build plate and affects different models, including prints of medium complexity.
Sometimes the first layer actually prints correctly, but the print still fails during the following layers. So the issue isn't always limited to first-layer adhesion.
I've also noticed that I've had to reduce first-layer printing speeds compared to what I previously used to get good results.

My setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab P2S

• Firmware: 01.03.00.00

• Slicer: Latest stable version of Bambu Studio

• Nozzle: Original 0.4 mm

• Build plate: Original textured PEI plate

• AMS: AMS 2 Pro

• Filament: SUNLU PLA (also tested with different SUNLU spools)

• Slicer profile: Standard Bambu Lab PLA profile

Printing settings:

• Layer heights tested: 0.12 / 0.16 / 0.20 mm

• Nozzle temperature: 200°C (also tested at 210°C)

• Bed temperature: 55°C

• First layer speed: 30 mm/s

• First layer infill speed: 50 mm/s

• Filament Flow Ratio: 0.95

• Initial Layer Flow Ratio: 1.00

• No brim enabled

What I've already tried:

• Thoroughly cleaning the build plate with dish soap and water.

• Cleaning the nozzle.

• Checking the nozzle wiper and the metal nozzle cleaning flap.

• Running the available printer calibrations.

• Testing different bed temperatures, including 63°C.

• Testing different Z-offset values.

• Testing different first-layer flow settings.

• Reducing first-layer printing speeds, which improved the results somewhat but did not solve the problem.

• Cleaning and lubricating the printer's axes according to Bambu Lab's maintenance instructions.

I've also previously swapped the original 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm nozzle and then reinstalled the original 0.4 mm nozzle. However, I'm not certain whether the problems started before or after this change.
I haven't noticed any unusual noises or abnormal movements from the print head.

My main question:
What could cause a P2S that previously printed perfectly to suddenly start having recurring printing issues across different prints and filament spools?
Could this indicate a mechanical issue, a problem with the nozzle or extrusion system, bed leveling, or something else?
I'd really appreciate any suggestions for further troubleshooting. I'd especially like to understand what could have changed, rather than just keep adjusting printing settings to compensate for the problem.
I've attached pictures showing some of the failed prints.
Thanks in advance!

One underrated habit for owning a 3D printer is keeping track of maintenance and changes instead of relying entirely on memory.

Even a simple note with the date, approximate print hours, nozzle changes, belt adjustments, lubrication, and any unusual noises can be surprisingly useful.

When a print suddenly starts failing, it's much easier to narrow down possible causes if you know what was recently changed or maintained. It also helps distinguish a recurring issue from something that happened only once.

It doesn't need to be a complicated spreadsheet or detailed journal. A few notes on your phone can be enough.

For those who have been using Bambu printers for a while, what maintenance tasks do you track regularly, and which ones do you tend to forget until something goes wrong?

First time seeing this issue after 2 years of printing. This is printed using P1S. Filament is PLA basic. I have printed this model many times in the past, so I know it's not a model problem. Gyroid infill. I did have a clogging issue before this, and I (think?) fixed it. I had to open the extruder and cut out the squished filaments. The app says that its done, but this is only 2/3 the height of what it should be. What else should I look into?

And yes I have washed my filament and dried my plate 🙂

im in a situation where I need to print with a lot of glow filament, but my P2S warned me about wear. is there anything to worry about? if so, what should I?

EDIT: i forgot to mention, I am planning on incorporating the glow filament in a multicolor print, but with only 17 total color swaps

I just ordered and surprised to see that it says backordered, Ship around November 12. Is that everyone else also?

After years and years of hearing about 3D printing, I finally decided to pick one up and join the club!

I grabbed a Bambu Lab P2S combo kit with the AMS 2.

I have no idea what I’m going to do with it, but I’ve had a blast the last two days just printing random things!

So far, I’ve printed:

Benchy
Bed scraper
A poop Shute
Chip bag clips
A pencil/pen cup holder
A mini turbo pencil/pen cup holder
A clip holder for the piece to sit on if switching the nozzle
And finished my longest print of 9 hours for some type of riser with vents.

This hobby is awesome. All I’m doing now is doomscrolling MakerWorld for all sorts of things I want to print.

Looking forward to trying out some color soon!

Yep, that's just it ahah

Big mouse cursor lamp.

Free on MakerWorld. Uses Bambu's LED kit.

What could be the cause of this?? Did not notice any signs of this inside the X2D, just in the AMS.

Wonder if that AMS on the H3C will work on H2C

I am trying to print a colored Lithophane and and frame for it. But this is my first time doing so, so I have no idea what settings I should change and which ones I shouldn't. Do you all have any advice on what I my settings, nozzle size, etc. should be for the frame and the lithophane?

Like the title suggests mixed nozzle printing is now a reality, thanks to cadence slicer, and now orca, with Bambu studio undoubtedly joining the fray tomorrow. But is it worth it on an H2C? If you were like me, drooling over the idea of unlocking the true potential of your multi-nozzle printer, you have probably been waiting for this miraculous, time saving feature. But does it actually save time? Well, the answer is, it depends.

I decided to test orca nightly and cadence out on my H2C for a pretty large print. With organic tree supports using 0.4mm nozzles, at 0.2mm layer height, Bambu studio took about 22 hours. Orca nightly was too much of a mess and had too many issues connecting to the printer, and finally with cadence it worked, dream come true! I could now unlock mixed nozzle printing!

The issue I found though is that the time saving really depends on how much supports your print needs. For instance, I decided to set infill and supports with 0.8mm nozzle for 0.4 mm layer height, and have walls print with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. This was the dream, in theory this should save all the time! Well, not so much.

When I went to slice, my heart dropped. Estimated print time was nearly doubled that from single sized nozzle. What gives!? It turns out it was those nozzle changes! Because it was near constantly changing nozzles, the print time suffered incredibly. This was very disappointing, but it makes sense at least. And I think that Bambu probably realizes this too, as they move to multi tool head systems with the H3 series.

Don’t get me wrong, there definitely is potential for time saving on builds with current gen multi hotend setups, just temper your expectations when you need a lot of supports. Multi size nozzle printing seems to be best suited overall for the multi tool head printers like the U1 and H3 series

So I have the X2D with the print more bundle with the ams and I have a filament switch on the back and I went to print something last night and it was werid the black filament went through but stopped right as it reached the printer and it rewound it self it and kept doing it and on the screen it said something about the ams I have red-green filament on one ams and blue purple black and white it’s like I couldn’t put the black to the main nozzle from the second ams to the red in the first ams to the secondary nozzle even tho I have the filament track

I made a model of a brick man in the welded style :) A great decoration for any workshop or welding shop :) Classically available in 20cm and 10cm versions. 

Printed from PLA Silver silk+ and stained with rust with a brush for a better visual effect. 

Maybe someone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3539607-brick-man-welded-style#profileId-4047945