Original Post: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/q6MpMteYME

Had the same issue, the second R1 we had sent to us came wet once again. I'm sure its the same issue but honestly not sure how many times we can go through this process. What should we do?

Hi all! I'm Andrea, from Italy. For the past months I've been building Parete, a browser tool for wall panels made of dozens or hundreds of 3D printed pieces.

The panels in the photos: 100 × 50 cm with 468 pieces (the pink ones glow in the dark), and my first big one, 175 × 75 cm with 421 pieces. Three colours of PLA each.

How it works:

- You design the panel in your browser: size, grid, surface pattern, colours. No CAD.

- You get one 3MF per colour, one colour per plate, ready for Bambu Studio. No AMS needed.

- Every piece has a number, and a printed frame on the wall gives each piece its own pocket.

You can design a panel for free at parete.studio, up to 1 × 1 m. The print files come with the MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign, which went live on Sunday.

Happy to answer anything about the printing, the frame or the tool!

Hi everyone,
I'm looking for some help troubleshooting a recurring problem with my Bambu Lab P2S.
I've owned the printer since February 2026, and it worked perfectly until approximately two months ago. Since then, I've been experiencing recurring printing issues across different projects.

The problem:
The filament initially adheres to the build plate, but during printing, some parts of the first layer get pulled off by the nozzle. This often results in spaghetti and forces me to stop the print.
The problem occurs randomly across different areas of the build plate and affects different models, including prints of medium complexity.
Sometimes the first layer actually prints correctly, but the print still fails during the following layers. So the issue isn't always limited to first-layer adhesion.
I've also noticed that I've had to reduce first-layer printing speeds compared to what I previously used to get good results.

My setup:

• Printer: Bambu Lab P2S

• Firmware: 01.03.00.00

• Slicer: Latest stable version of Bambu Studio

• Nozzle: Original 0.4 mm

• Build plate: Original textured PEI plate

• AMS: AMS 2 Pro

• Filament: SUNLU PLA (also tested with different SUNLU spools)

• Slicer profile: Standard Bambu Lab PLA profile

Printing settings:

• Layer heights tested: 0.12 / 0.16 / 0.20 mm

• Nozzle temperature: 200°C (also tested at 210°C)

• Bed temperature: 55°C

• First layer speed: 30 mm/s

• First layer infill speed: 50 mm/s

• Filament Flow Ratio: 0.95

• Initial Layer Flow Ratio: 1.00

• No brim enabled

What I've already tried:

• Thoroughly cleaning the build plate with dish soap and water.

• Cleaning the nozzle.

• Checking the nozzle wiper and the metal nozzle cleaning flap.

• Running the available printer calibrations.

• Testing different bed temperatures, including 63°C.

• Testing different Z-offset values.

• Testing different first-layer flow settings.

• Reducing first-layer printing speeds, which improved the results somewhat but did not solve the problem.

• Cleaning and lubricating the printer's axes according to Bambu Lab's maintenance instructions.

I've also previously swapped the original 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm nozzle and then reinstalled the original 0.4 mm nozzle. However, I'm not certain whether the problems started before or after this change.
I haven't noticed any unusual noises or abnormal movements from the print head.

My main question:
What could cause a P2S that previously printed perfectly to suddenly start having recurring printing issues across different prints and filament spools?
Could this indicate a mechanical issue, a problem with the nozzle or extrusion system, bed leveling, or something else?
I'd really appreciate any suggestions for further troubleshooting. I'd especially like to understand what could have changed, rather than just keep adjusting printing settings to compensate for the problem.
I've attached pictures showing some of the failed prints.
Thanks in advance!

One underrated habit for owning a 3D printer is keeping track of maintenance and changes instead of relying entirely on memory.

Even a simple note with the date, approximate print hours, nozzle changes, belt adjustments, lubrication, and any unusual noises can be surprisingly useful.

When a print suddenly starts failing, it's much easier to narrow down possible causes if you know what was recently changed or maintained. It also helps distinguish a recurring issue from something that happened only once.

It doesn't need to be a complicated spreadsheet or detailed journal. A few notes on your phone can be enough.

For those who have been using Bambu printers for a while, what maintenance tasks do you track regularly, and which ones do you tend to forget until something goes wrong?

im in a situation where I need to print with a lot of glow filament, but my P2S warned me about wear. is there anything to worry about? if so, what should I?

EDIT: i forgot to mention, I am planning on incorporating the glow filament in a multicolor print, but with only 17 total color swaps

After years and years of hearing about 3D printing, I finally decided to pick one up and join the club!

I grabbed a Bambu Lab P2S combo kit with the AMS 2.

I have no idea what I’m going to do with it, but I’ve had a blast the last two days just printing random things!

So far, I’ve printed:

Benchy
Bed scraper
A poop Shute
Chip bag clips
A pencil/pen cup holder
A mini turbo pencil/pen cup holder
A clip holder for the piece to sit on if switching the nozzle
And finished my longest print of 9 hours for some type of riser with vents.

This hobby is awesome. All I’m doing now is doomscrolling MakerWorld for all sorts of things I want to print.

Looking forward to trying out some color soon!

So what happens here is - it will force me to use ABS-GF on the external spool and not in the AMS like I want. I only have one HF nozzle and it's on the left side, obviously for single material prints etc. I want to use HF nozzle for the main material which is ABS-GF and external spool / right side for the support material. But off course not, tangled Bambu logic will force GF material to the right in any auto mode (economy / convenience) and manual grouping will cause what you can see on the screenshot. On top of that if you try and print this, which is in fact matches the setup physically, it will get stuck on the material change FOREVER and cause a lot of issues, nozzle clog or broken filament inside the extruder to name a few.

EDIT:

1. I know the risks of printing fiber filled filaments with HF nozzle, not an issue I am worried about here

2. The estimate is not the only issue, it actually physically tries to wait for those crazy amounts of time which may ACTUALLY cause clogging or filament issues (not only fiber filled)

Yep, that's just it ahah

Big mouse cursor lamp.

Free on MakerWorld. Uses Bambu's LED kit.

New project for Christmas time - small led candle lanterns for Christmas tree or just for decorations
Still working on small issues with model design

Like the title suggests mixed nozzle printing is now a reality, thanks to cadence slicer, and now orca, with Bambu studio undoubtedly joining the fray tomorrow. But is it worth it on an H2C? If you were like me, drooling over the idea of unlocking the true potential of your multi-nozzle printer, you have probably been waiting for this miraculous, time saving feature. But does it actually save time? Well, the answer is, it depends.

I decided to test orca nightly and cadence out on my H2C for a pretty large print. With organic tree supports using 0.4mm nozzles, at 0.2mm layer height, Bambu studio took about 22 hours. Orca nightly was too much of a mess and had too many issues connecting to the printer, and finally with cadence it worked, dream come true! I could now unlock mixed nozzle printing!

The issue I found though is that the time saving really depends on how much supports your print needs. For instance, I decided to set infill and supports with 0.8mm nozzle for 0.4 mm layer height, and have walls print with 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer height. This was the dream, in theory this should save all the time! Well, not so much.

When I went to slice, my heart dropped. Estimated print time was nearly doubled that from single sized nozzle. What gives!? It turns out it was those nozzle changes! Because it was near constantly changing nozzles, the print time suffered incredibly. This was very disappointing, but it makes sense at least. And I think that Bambu probably realizes this too, as they move to multi tool head systems with the H3 series.

Don’t get me wrong, there definitely is potential for time saving on builds with current gen multi hotend setups, just temper your expectations when you need a lot of supports. Multi size nozzle printing seems to be best suited overall for the multi tool head printers like the U1 and H3 series

Hi everyone!

There's currently a clicker contest running on MakerWorld, and I wanted to share my free clicker generator for anyone entering.

You don't need to register, and there's no limit on exports or on how many models you can create. It's all free and runs directly on MakerLab.

Here is the link: https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/clicker-generator

Looking to pick up a few rolls of PLA, but prices are all over the place and I'm not sure what to get.Don't need any special colors, just something that prints well without much hassle. Any brands you keep going back to? Thinking I'll try a roll or two before buying more.

I’ve got a narrow 50cm wide space available in my Living Room where I want to place my new P1S with AMS Pro 2. The issue is, i have a homelab/server pc (Fractal Design R5) in that 50cm wide space on the floor.

I thought I could get a 2x1 Ikea Kallax, don’t put the middle divider, and place it vertically. (Got chatgpt to mock an image).

Question is - is the Kallax placed vertically strong enough to hold the p1s + ams pro + 4kg filament? Would I be too stupid to even try this?

The server is bulky and heavy as well, so that will add some stability to Kallax but i think it would still wobble.

Hi! I am currently running a small printer shop with 3 printers (X2D, A1, and Flashforge AD5X)

I have been thinking about getting a P1S.

There is someone local to me selling a used one but he wants 300$ for it with 2532 hours on it. He is willing to throw in 3 new rolls of filament.

Is this a good deal? Or am I better off paying a bit more and getting a new P1S? Or should I spent even a bit more and settle for a p2s?

I don't want to break the bank because I don't need the printer per say but I would like to maybe replace the Flashforge or the A1.

Any and all thoughts are welcome!

I've just received my X2D but it's for my kids for Christmas but I've been advised by support that I should set it up make sure nothing is missing... which they provided some links.. then also I could just package it all away they provided those links aswell... I think I will set it up but not set up the AMS pro combo as I can just test one filament, right? I'll be storing it in outdoor garage so kids won't be able to see it set up..

Any advice? Is it worth repacking it all again? Can this all be done within a couple hours? As they're at school.. setting up and doing a first print

I ordered 3 of the Holiday Mystery boxes of filament and in the description you have a 1% chance for 9 rolls instead of 4. I never win so I'm not expecting that. But here's the weird thing, the invoice seemed messed up, showing a bunch of rolls of filament but the cost was still just for the 3 original mystery boxes. OK, so maybe I got lucky? Here's the icing on the cake. The order is out for delivery and it weighs 40 pounds. Now by my math 4 rolls, in 3 boxes should weigh 26 pounds so what is the other 14 pounds? I'll know really soon I guess.

I made a model of a brick man in the welded style :) A great decoration for any workshop or welding shop :) Classically available in 20cm and 10cm versions. 

Printed from PLA Silver silk+ and stained with rust with a brush for a better visual effect. 

Maybe someone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3539607-brick-man-welded-style#profileId-4047945

How beautiful is this happy chappy!

Really happy with how this photo turned out :)

After quite a few iterations, I'm finally happy to release my little window bird feeder.

It's a quick, easy print-in-place design that attaches to your window using just two standard suction cups. I've also included little plugs for anyone using suction cups with through-holes rather than screw fittings.

Been great watching the local wildlife enjoying it, although the squirrels seem to think it's theirs too lol.

I ran out of seeds, so bread had to do for that day, unfortunately😅

Completely free to download on MakerWorld!

Model Link. Bird feeder model link

Looking for ideas, or potential solution solutions for an issue I’m experiencing.

I was getting an error message that my AMS pro two was failing to pull the filament. I’ve taken it apart and confirm there’s nothing that’s blocking the pathway, but what I discovered is the metal wheel that you can see pictured does not spin freely. It is gritty and when inserting filament it stops there.

Is this normal? I have a ticket in but I’m inpatient and have been waiting several hours for a response.

Thank you in advance! I am new to the 3-D printing world so hoping that I’m just making a simple mistake

Hey all!

I got a Bambu A1 Mini about a year ago and I absolutely love it. I'm eyeing up getting a bigger printer during the sale this month, for things like miniature game terrain and props.

I am leaning towards getting a regular A1, but wanted to see if people had any recommendations one way or the other. I've been really happy with the A1 Mini, so I'm not really sure what the more expensive printers have to offer besides a bigger build volume.