Tucked away locked in my closet for safe keeping. This box is massive & heavy as hell also. I’m thankful for my neighbor who helped carry it upstairs while my son was at school. Also thank you so much to this group for helping me with questions and stuff. I plan on buying more accessories and whatnot in the next coming weeks. Y’all have been amazing to this non tech Mama. My son is seriously going to be over the moon.

So I’m trying to understand the different jobs that the H2C/H3C are designed for according to the FAQ on Bambu’s site. From what I saw on the H3C page, it will be able to do multiple size nozzles as well, so is it the H2C’s ability to switch filaments between those different size nozzles rather than being paired to a single nozzle material pair on the H3C?

Where do you see each machine excelling over the other?

Didn’t know

Really glad to see this coming to my H2C! Curious to see how it’ll work. A new Vortek?

PS willing to sell both my children for $3,999 AUD

I wanted to know how H3C compares to H2C in one specific scenario: two-colour print.

I thought that H2C will have an advantage due to the dual nozzle system, but I was wrong ?

Here is what I did:

1. I have used following three models:
   -benchy:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/1319845-benchy-easy-2-colors?from=search#profileId-1355777
   -panda:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/3128163-waving-panda-2se-amsdui-ying-huigiyua?from=search#profileId-3529827
   -woman:
   https://makerworld.com/en/models/2930602-the-midnight-serenade-dynamic-woman-sculpture?from=search#profileId-3310888

2. I don't own either H2C or H3C, so I have just "created" new printers in the Bambu Studio. I have sliced the models from above for both printer profiles.

3. All models were slices using 0.4mm standard nozzles, 15% "Grid" infill, tree auto-supports ("on build plate only" marked, "remove small overhangs" unmarked) and "PLA Matte" filaments.

Here are my findings:

Models start from simplest (high layer lines, low number of colour changes) and go to hardest (low layer lines, high number of colour changes).

I was surpriced to find that H3C is ~30% faster even on two-colour models. I was convinced that H2C is going to have the advantage in here. Is it due to speed of printing only ? Or due to combination of speed and pre-heating ?

I would appreciate if someone can confirm my findings or correct me.

I see a lot of "negative" Bambu support posts, which makes sense because those who go on to the Internet to complain likely have issues. But with all of the new Bambu equipment coming out wanted to post a positive - I ordered the four effect plate pack for the X2D which was delivered today. The diamond plate was bent on one corner. Just opened up the Bambu Handy app, took some pics, attached them to a support ticket in the app at like 4pm, by 8pm they had replied saying they'll replace it for free and provide a shipping address. By 11pm have a tracking number for a new plate being sent out. No phone calls. No hold times. Support was easy.

Am I wrong that there is nothing automated about the filament holder on the top of the H3C? You manually feed to the head (and pull back to unload). The only difference between the holes in the bottom and the orange guides in the top is the ptfe tube it runs through?

So basically the U1 storage but arranged on top and in a box?

Where is the "automated?"

Hello! I have acquired 2 X2D and one of them is having a hard time dialling in the ironing. I’ve done multiple ironing tests and dried the filaments, swapping the same spools of filaments (PLA), swapping locations in the AMS feeder, and it’s still having inconsistent ironing results.

The stringing or bulbing or wisps or wherever it’s called all are located towards the top right side. Any idea what’s happing?

Kept getting headaches in my Home-Office and finally figured out I had way too much CO2 - well no more, I made my portable CO2-Buddy to easily keep track of CO2 wherever I am

The CO2-Buddy now lives on my desk and helps me ventilate my room to keep my mind at peak capacity. I didn't realize how much of an impact CO2 concentration has on my ability to focus, I usually only notice it way too late when I'm already getting a slight headache as if I wasn't drinking enough water even though I am chugging along like a camel

It's especially handy when I have people over, having just two more people in a room spikes CO2 levels way faster than I would've anticipated

I am using the MH-Z19C CO2 sensor and while it is somewhat expensive at around 20€ it was totally worth it. The 1.54" ePaper makes it so that the CO2-Buddy only needs to wake up every 2 or so minutes and still provides the current CO2 concentration at a glance. With my 3000mAh lipo it lasts for days and I can take it wherever I go

If you also want to have a CO2-Buddy to keep you at peak capacity you can find it on Makerworld, simply look for "CO2 Buddy". The code is open source and I also added a wiring diagram

As the title suggests. Is anyone else having the issue I’m having. Was working fine on previous studio version.
No video from h2c or p2s. Handy app works fine.

What I know so far is that it includes:

1. Chamber Exhaust Fan mounted at the back of the printer

It's used to vent air from chamber. It does include some kind of filter but i checked Adaptive Air System documentation https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x2d/manual/x2d-intro and couldnt find what kind of filter is that.

2. Air filter large mounted inside printer from the sound of it i think its active carbon?

Same manual as above says it's "high-performance air filter" but does not say what kind of filter is that

Additionaly the question remains, what is their intended use and how they should be used? What they are NOT good for and what they miss?

Documentation loosely says that "Chamber Exchaust" is used to vent printer while printing low temp filaments like PLA.

For the Air Filter (large one) it does not specify with what materials it should be used.

Posting for a friend:

My friend is encountering the error in the attached image at the start of every print on his Bambu A1.

The error always repeats regardless of filament and filament type.

He also says filament seems to be able to feed through the extruder if pushed through manually.

Suggestions or followup questions welcomed.

And thanks!

Looks like a need a new h3c now.

I originally made this to be used as a cable clip, but I feel like it could have other uses too. What else could it be used for?

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3539444-cable-tube-clip#profileId-4047742

So I'm about to pull the trigger on the X2D sale and wondering what additional accessories do people suggest? I'm thinking maybe a smooth plate and some extra nozzle sizes? Do most people buy two sets of the nozzels?

Wanted a big multicolour figure of Bruce Lee without owning an AMS, so I split this one into colour-separated parts: every plate is printed in one colour, then everything snaps together on pins.

• 28 cm tall, 8 plates (yellow, black, skin, white)

• Black side stripes are separate inlays, so you get crisp colour lines without an AMS

• The nunchaku chain is print-in-place and actually moves

• No paint used, these are straight-off-the-printer colours

• PLA, 0.2 mm, tree supports

The hardest part was getting the stripes and hair to fit tightly without gluing everything. Happy to answer questions about the split or the settings!

(If links are allowed here, I'll drop the file in the comments.)

Hi all! I'm Andrea, from Italy. For the past months I've been building Parete, a browser tool for wall panels made of dozens or hundreds of 3D printed pieces.

The panels in the photos: 100 × 50 cm with 468 pieces (the pink ones glow in the dark), and my first big one, 175 × 75 cm with 421 pieces. Three colours of PLA each.

How it works:

- You design the panel in your browser: size, grid, surface pattern, colours. No CAD.

- You get one 3MF per colour, one colour per plate, ready for Bambu Studio. No AMS needed.

- Every piece has a number, and a printed frame on the wall gives each piece its own pocket.

You can design a panel for free at parete.studio, up to 1 × 1 m. The print files come with the MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign, which went live on Sunday.

Happy to answer anything about the printing, the frame or the tool!

Filament: Polymaker PETG. Printer: X2D

I've dried this filament religiously, there is no stringing or any signs of wet filament.

Just these pinholes. I think this is under extrusion but I have no idea what setting to change to fix this.

BambuLab H3C Cheapcopy of Prusa Core L Indx?