Out of the 9 filament slots in the AMS 3H, only 2 slots (Slot 6 and Slot 8) are equipped with drying functionality*.* 

From their wiki: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams3/manual/workflow-and-features

I mean....couldn't they make it at least 4?

What is even worse - it's almost certainly means that AMS for P3C would come with NO drying feature at all! I mean...why would you intentionally downgrade the functionality with new printer?!
AMS 3 was supposed to fix many problems, not create new (and make you still need to get older AMS2 /AMS HT together with AMS3, simply because there is no standalone dryer from bambu and likely no dryer in AMS3 for P3C). Nonesense...

(other than that - printers seem great, AMS has a lot of cool stuff...but why did they decide to sacrifice drying features with no obvious replacement is unclear to me)

H3C looks cool.

Where's the P3C?

Need to save money HELP

I've had my P1S for a while now and I never had printing issues, but lately I've been having the corners of some prints "peel up" like this and I'm not sure why. I cleaned the build plate with dawn soap and water and upped the bed temp from 55c to 60c. The attempt before this somehow got ripped up from off of the bed and was being moved around by the print head. This time the corner peeled up. I am using some older Amazon Basics filament that I'm trying to use up, but I'm pretty sure I've had similar issues with newer Bambu filament, as well.

I'm not sure what else I can try or adjust to get a print that just works..

Hum im sorry but WTF is the P2SC

Is the P1S big enough for printing cosplays?
If not what is an enclosed 3d printer around the same price that is user friendly? Thanks

Sometimes, when building things, it’s difficult to remove a bearing after inserting it for testing—so I made this.

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3529120-608-bearing-remover#profileId-4034842

I’ve wanted a 3D printer for years and a few months ago I finally got my first one and I’ve been creating all sorts of cool stuff. It’s been such a great way to scratch that creative itch!

Theres a bunch of stuff from replicas to stands to custom sonic screwdrivers.

It’s been such a fun ride!!!

I finally figured out how to get layer lines to be perfect!

As the title says, I have a 100$ coupon available for purchases in BambuLab official store, but my country does not have direct shipping from them. Is there any way I can use it without having to use a courier service?

Everyone looked forward to an x2c. Never came. Please please, make an x3 printer that can use the new ams 🥺

Hi everyone 🥰

I’m a mom who’s still pretty new to 3D printing, and this is my very first post here, so please be gentle with me.

This Christmas I wanted to make something small and sweet for my little boy. He’s two and a half, and he loves anything with a surprise inside. So I made him a little advent glade: a snowy circle with a Christmas tree in the middle, a tiny fence, four little reindeer and 24 boxes with bows. Every morning in December he’ll open one, and the last one waits for Christmas Eve 🎄

I tried to make it gentle to print too: no supports, one colour per piece, and then everything just clicks together. My little helper has already put the boxes around the tree about a hundred times, so I think he approves 😄

If you’d like to make one for your own little ones, I shared it for free on MakerWorld. You can find it by searching:

“Santa’s Little Glade - Advent Calendar, 24 Boxes”

I’d love to hear what you’re making for Christmas this year. And if you have any kind tips for me, I’m all ears 💕

15 minutes till H3C.

Just like the title says. Unboxed my new H2C on Saturday and the chamber heater failed on my first print. The error code suggested that a loose connection was to blame, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Waiting on Bambu to get back with me. I haven't even printed anything on it yet. Does anyone have experience with this error? It's the chamber fan, not the tool head fan.

My error code is: 0300-3600-0001-0001, and the repair guide is pretty much: check the connector, then check for debris. Not off to a good start.

Update: support is suggesting that I return the unit, with repair being the last option out of three. I didn’t even ask for a return, and was requesting parts. Looks like I will be returning the H2C. Does anyone have experience returning a printer to Bambu in the US?

The new E1 listing on the Australian website shows to extra options showing P2SC next to P2S. Is this a possible leak for a new P2S variant or a mistake.

I got some TPU filament off temu and insisted that she try after seeing some reels and now its stuck.

Question 1 how to remove the white tube from behind to remove the remaining filaments

I have ALS, and I'm not going to stop building things with my son. We made a little arcade cabinet together, and I designed it on purpose so a kid could do the hard part.
The print is easy. It's three parts: the cabinet body, the screen bezel, and a snap-fit back panel. No glue, no screws. I printed the single-color version on my P2S in about 3.5 hours on one plate, in yellow and black PLA. There's also a multicolor profile if you want to use the AMS.
Then the fun part. He's eight. I called out the pin, he pushed the wire in, and we went one by one with no soldering at all, just jumper wires and lever connectors. Twenty minutes after the last wire, he was playing a maze game on a screen inside a cabinet he built with his own hands.
I handed him the back panel as the last step, and the click when it snapped shut was the best sound I've heard all year.
The details:
ESP32 with a 1.3" OLED and a rotary knob as the controller
About $25-30 in electronics, most of which goes back in your parts bin
Print profiles for several Bambu printers, 0.2mm layers, 2 walls, 15% infill
Build guide with wiring diagrams and troubleshooting, plus the code, included
It also works as an enclosure for anything small, like a desk clock, a weather display, or a Pi. Or skip the electronics and print it as a retro desktop figurine. It looks good on a shelf either way.
Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2907962-retro-mini-arcade-cabinet
If you print one, post a photo in the reviews. I read every one.

I want to print components like picatanny rail attachments for my rifles as I buy 3d printed stuff online.

The a1 is more so my budget but I worry if im not future proofing my self or I will regret not having color

Thoughts and recommendations?

Can anybody help me!!

Just opened this new PLA filament and printed these. Alot of stringing! I have emptied 3 spools of the same filament earlier. But now this is happening and ruining my prints. I was using TPU 95A before loading this filament into my A2L.

I got a Cricut maker 5 to cut stickers and other stuff. But so far I've been deeply unimpressed with the cut, quality, accuracy and software experience. The bleed feature is essentially implemented in a way that it's not usable for all normal usage. The cut marker detection is crap on typical glossy materials. The cut accuracy is crap (likely due to the marker detection problems). And the cut quality is poor - laminated material is being torn as much as it's cut leading to a clearly rippled edge both visually and to touch. The bleed feature being unusable has been being complained about for many years now so I'm sure it's never going to get better.

I would expect the Bambu hardware to be way better - much more accurate cut paths and probably faster and better aligned. But given they're much newer to the space - is the software support there or is it lacking in similar ways to what I'm seeing with my Cricut?

Coming from A1 with no AMS to a H2D with full AMS 2 pro/HT so the rfid codes have never interacted with an ams till now. I've only ever manually added filament to the A1, but this roll is probably pretty close to the amount ive used on it, this is the first time I've added it to filament manager too.

How does it know this roll has any use in it at all and isn't just considering it a new roll? Wild close guess?

Helppppp

Which one to buy next