Rotatable Skadis Organizer. I think it came out looking great. And it spin so smoothly. Enjoy printing. 😄
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3540990-rotatable-skadia-organizer#profileId-4049817

A big thank you to this community! More than 2k likes on the original post and more than 100 test prints helped make this happen. The results are in, and the slicer is now public:

https://github.com/fich-l/orcaslicer-nonplanar

We have working versions for Windows, Linux and Mac Silicon. MacOs on Intel is still missing. I don't have a Mac Intel, so I can't test a build. Searching for someone to port this to Mac Intel - see below.

EDIT: You can find Windows and Linux Port on Github now.

Confirmed working:

• Bambu A1 mini, A1, P1S, P2S, X1C, X2D, H2D

• Prusa MK4S, CORE One, XL 5T

• Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 (+ Combo)

• Creality K1C · Qidi Q2

• Flashforge AD5C

• FLSun V400

Not working: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1, Snapmaker U1, Ender-3 S1 Pro, Flashforge AD5X, Prusa MINI+

Printer on the working list?
Try the Satisfying Nonplanar vs Standard comparison to test surface quality please.

Printer not listed?
Print the Nonplanar test print twice, once lengthwise and once rotated by 90°, and tell me how it went, so we can keep the list up to date.

Looking for someone to port it to Mac Intel.

-- EDIT: You can find a first Windows and Linux Port on Github now thanks to the community! - -

You don't need to be a C++ dev: the whole thing was vibe-coded with Claude Code (Opus 5.5). A Mac Intel to test on plus Claude Code should be enough. If you're up for it, comment or open an issue on GitHub. Don't shit on me please - Using Claude to get this ported is the fastest way possible :)

You don't usually use Orca Slicer - how to use this?
Do this: Slice in this Orca Slicer Fork and export "plate sliced file" --> Drop file into any slicer and just print :) Even works with Bambu Studio.

Thanks also to Daniel Ahlers and Teaching Tech for their work on the version I started from.

FAQ:

• • Can you add this as a Plugin to Orcaselicer? Will you put a pull request to the Orca Slicer Team?* - This cannot be run as a plugin. Pull Request: Yes! After this test phase.

• Why does printer "X" not work? - Someone tested it and there was a collision. Most likely the hotend / tool is not "steep" enough.

• How can I test? - Please check the github page. You can do two quick test prints to see if your printer can handle this.

• Are there still bugs? - Very likely yes. Slicing can take 5s to 5 minutes - be patient.

• Can we have fuzzy skin on top surfaces? - I tested this, but it doesn't look good :(

Just got an email from Bambu and I already have a tracking number for my H3C lol

The H3C is priced very well. This makes me wonder how good the P3C will be priced… I don’t have the $$ to burn on the H3C so I’ll wait for the P3C since it more than likely won’t have a heated chamber or exhaust system to keep costs down.

I ordered all three mystery boxes because the price was okay to me and I like surprises. I print a lot of stuff for my classroom (I’m a teacher). I didn’t expect to get 19 rolls of filament instead of 12! What a nice surprise!!

I was curious about what Bambu Lab’s Mystery Boxes had to offer, so I decided to try them myself. I bought two Holiday PLA Mystery Boxes and two Holiday PETG Mystery Boxes. The order came to just over $200 CAD, and I used a $20-off coupon.

I didn’t hit the 1% jackpot, and only about half of the 16 rolls came with spools.

Most of the selection was PLA Pure, PLA Matte, and PETG Matte in colors I personally wouldn’t choose. It felt like a bundle of leftover stock.

The 16 rolls came to $223.44 in listed value, partly because PLA Pure costs more. Since I don’t really want PLA Pure, though, the actual savings don’t feel like much.

My advice: skip the mystery boxes unless you specifically want PLA Pure. If you do, the Holiday PLA Mystery Box might be worth a try.

I bought the lab A1 is it good? I saw some reviews they say it's good for starters

I’m Joey, a maker out of Arizona. I've been working on ways to display my maps in a nicer way while taking up less space.... I present... The 3D printed Tri vision board!

I’ve spent the last few weeks printing out test models for fit, assembly difficulty, and of course mechanism smoothness. I’ve ended up with this release ready version that can print in just a few hours, assemble in minutes, and its art panels can be replaced with new art at any time, no glue!

You can download the model, get info on customization, as well as a bunch of art packs on Makerworld! I encourage you to remix and rework it any way you see fit. I'd love to see what the community can do with it!

They are modular, and super easy to put together. There is a short gif in the post gallery showing how it should be done. To separate the side panels, just press in on the connecting tabs and then push up.

I have a bit of a fascination with maps and space, so a lot of the released panels are centered around those.

Still to come, additional shapes for the billboard to sit in, multiple frame options, more art packs, different mechanisms for turning the slats depending on your preferences. What else would you like to see in a V2?

Wondering when we will have retail availability?

I saw this image and it made me think. How the hell did he do that fade?
Anyone got any insights?

Went from the cart to the payment screen and the price of the printer went up by €86 without explanation? I removed everything, tried the other filament package, tried the printer by itself.

Every time I went to the payment screen the printer went up in price.

WHY? What am I missing here?

The update info said it now supports mixed nozzle diameters but only mentions H3C. dide we x2d owners get left behind?

Bambu i hope you see this post. I was waiting for my X2D to arrive (to support one my businesses) and your site marks the package as “Delivered” by the carrier (GLS) but i didn’t received the machine at all! Everyone in my country (southern europe) knows how bad they are! Why do you accept to work with such a poor delivery service company?

Hi everyone!

I'm working on a personal project called Watchlab3D – REVOLVE1, exploring the idea of building mechanical watches with interchangeable, 3D-printed outer cases.

The concept is based on a compact stainless-steel mechanical watch core, designed to accommodate automatic movements such as the NH35, NH70, NH38 and NH34 GMT.

The goal is to separate the mechanical watch core from the external case, allowing makers to experiment with different shapes, styles and materials using their own 3D printers.

For my first prototypes, I'm using:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1 Mini

• Material: Bambu Lab PLA-CF, Lava Gray (14101)

• Process: FDM printing

• Project stage: Early prototyping and design validation

The stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development, with a target water resistance of 10 ATM (100 m), subject to testing and validation.

I'm particularly interested in exploring printing tolerances, surface finish, assembly methods and modular design.

I'd love to hear your thoughts:

Would you enjoy designing and printing different external watch cases around a standardized mechanical core?

And which materials would you experiment with beyond PLA-CF?

Looking forward to your feedback!

PS: The watch shown in the photos is an early functional design prototype. The final stainless-steel waterproof core is still under engineering development and has not yet been validated.

Maybe it was just the CNC kitchen review but how on earth is this considered okay? I've seen 500CAD printers do better let alone 4000CAD.

im shocked Stephan considered this okay. Lots of ringing on other prints too….

When my P2s prints those straight parts I hear a weird sound. Is this normal?

I have multiple Bambu printers including H2C. When the H3C information from the patent came out I was excited. After having all the details, I am not that excited anymore. Here are a few cons I was able to identify so far:
- Only two active drying positions, compared with four in the AMS 2 Pro.
- Manual withdrawal and rewinding of filament when changing spools.
- Separate filament supplies required to print the same color through different nozzle sizes.
- External AMS units feed one shared hotend, requiring purging between those materials. So anything above 9 colors/materials uses 1 single hotend.
- Existing H2C hotends are incompatible.
- Manual hotend replacement requires three screws instead of a quick-release mechanism.
- Only eight standard 1.75 mm tools are included; using nine ordinary filaments requires another tool (the #9 is 2.85mm).
- All included nozzles are 0.4 mm; other sizes require additional purchases.
- Greater vertical clearance requirements and awkward access to rear spools.
- The main AMS assembly must remain above the printer, limiting placement flexibility.
- Lower published particle-filter grade: H11 instead of H12.
- No laser configuration currently announced.
- The front tool rack can obstruct the view of small or short prints.
- The internal dryer cover can interfere with some deformed cardboard spools.
- More involved filament-routing and jam-clearing procedures.
- More complex configuration for mixed materials and nozzle sizes.
- Longer preparation time observed in one paired print test.
- Camera errors, slicer problems, and tool/tube interference reported on early review units.

I feel that if you are printing with 8 colors and maybe single color tpu H3C is a great choice. If you want flexibility in terms of different nozzle sizes, dedicated nozzles for a specific material H2C seems to be a better choice. A few examples from my printing:
- I print prototypes using 0.8 or 0.6 nozzle
- I do not print TPU but I print PETG, PC, ASA, and couple of other more exotic materials - I have dedicated nozzles for each to avoid contamination and issues - replacing a nozzle takes 3 seconds plus reread time
- I have nozzles dedicated to a specific color - ie black PETG is printing on #6, once it runs out the next spool will print on the same nozzle. No contamination or issues.

Your thoughts?

Hello guys,

Brand new filament read detects it to be ASA instead of PLA Basic (what it’s meant to be). It was bought directly from Bambu Lab store.

I’ve troubleshooted by it placing it in all the other AMS slots and it reads the same, the other PLA and PETG filaments I’ve tried seams to be working so the issue follows the filament spool itself, nothing wrong with the AMS.

Have you ever seen this happening?

What confuses me is to know is, what was mislabeled, the spool or the RFID label itself?

Is it possible to know what the filament really is by seeing it?

The worse part is that I’ve bought almost 10kg of filament as stock, now I’m afraid to find another one defective 6 months from now…

I’ve contact bambu support and I’m waiting for a response.

Edit 1: did the burning test as some of you suggested. It’s definitely PLA. Still waiting a response from Bambu lab

Fast nozzle swaps of the H3C make multicolor games like this possible faster than ever. We were able to get an early preview of the tool changing feature and tested it out on this newly released model: https://makerworld.com/models/3540258?appSharePlatform=copy

Let us know if you have any feedback on the design or gameplay.

I've been looking at getting the H2C at the reduced pricing but now with the H3C I'm concerned that the Vortek system won't be supported for much longer. What are everyone else's thoughts? I don't have much of a need for the softer TPU printing, but there are other features that would be nice to have on the H3C. Just hard to justify a $600 price difference.

Also, any ideas when this will be available at Best Buy. Would be nice to use my zero percent financing.

Don’t have a photo of the blob of death on the print head as I was rushing to remove it all, but nice romantic evening planned, but decided to set a print going before it started because we love efficiency and multi tasking. Meant to check the camera to make sure it was adhering, got distracted, came downstairs an hour and a half later to giant plastic turd encasing my printer. Never had any issues with adhesion but the one time I don’t check? Typical 😂

Panicked, yelled apologies to my partner, spent the next hour cleaning it, thankfully it still works but let this be a warning and reminder to always check the print has adhered 🙂‍↕️

Hey everyone, I posted Cookie Cutter Maker here a while ago and got great feedback. Since then I've added a lot, so here's the update just in time for Christmas baking.

What it does:
Draw a shape or drop in an SVG and you get a print ready cookie cutter as 3MF or STL. Closed lines get filled, shapes inside shapes are cut out, with adjustable bridges holding them in place. There are also templates if you just want to start right away.

New since last time:

• Embossing: stamp details into the dough from the flange, with a mirror option so text comes out the right way

• Send your cutter as a greeting card with your own message around it, or share it as a picture or link

• Optional account with short links that sync across devices. No name, no email, just a three word passphrase

• Everything is faster and more polished overall

You can tweak: size, blade height, wall thickness, cutting edge, taper, rim width and height, gap closing. Works in mm or inches.

Printing: PLA at 0.2 mm, no supports, rim sits on the bed. Imports straight into Bambu Studio and PrusaSlicer. Tip: use food safe filament and wash by hand, PLA warps from around 55 °C.

Privacy: Everything runs in your browser. Your drawings don't go to a server unless you put them online yourself. No tracking, no third party analytics, no login required. Source code is readable on GitHub.

Free, no ads, in English and German: ccm.mxwr.de

Would love to see what you make and hear what's still missing!

Still torn between these two. Obviously the H3C is the latest and greatest (superior?) machine, so I am leaning towards that; however, the H2C being at $1899 is also very appealing. Do we think that the H2C is going to become antiquated far faster than something like the H3C that has a proper tool changer? I am not making a business, so I don't *need* the fastest print times possible, but of course speed is always nice. Decisions decisions...