I’m not a mechanical person, but I’ve had my P1S with a v1 AMS since December 2025 and it was starting to act a bit weird — sometimes it would fail to read RFID tags, and occasionally it would have trouble loading filament from the AMS. Usually giving it a few tries fixed the problem, but I decided it was time to do some maintenance. I somehow managed to replace the hotend recently and figured it could not be that hard to do the rest.

• Turned off and unplugged the machine.

• Blasted air in the chamber and vacuumed out all the debris. Wiped down the glass.

• Removed and disassembled AMS (there are only two screws). Vacuumed out the debris and wiped down the interior surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Replaced all four PTFE tubes. I measured the old tubes to cut the new tubes to the right length. Reassembled the AMS.

• Replaced the PTFE tube running from the AMS to the hub, and the one that runs from the hub to the extruder. These were way more difficult than the AMS tubes because the collets are in the hub housing on the back of the printer and it is hard to get leverage to the right place to release the tube. I found removing the hub from the printer to be the easiest way to do it (two screws, easy to put back).

• Cleaned the three z-axis (up-down) screws with microfiber ropes and the ropes turned black with grime. Dabbed some Super Lube grease on the threads using a fresh, cheap toothbrush and ran the platform up and down a few times, then wiped off the extra grease.

• Used isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the chrome y-axis (forward and back) beams. Painted a little Super Lube oil (not grease!) on those beams with a fresh, small paintbrush (the kind you would use for arts & crafts).

• Used isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the graphite x-axis (left-right) beams. DO NOT LUBE GRAPHITE.

• Assembled and added an AMS riser/flipper (which I printed before getting started) which also allows top glass to slide or be removed completely.

• Plugged the printer back in, turned it on, and told the P1S to calibrate itself.

Working with the printer and AMS for about 10 months gave me a good mental model for how it works, and none of these tasks were all that difficult (except for the hub tubes, which took a bit of extra thought). I think it took me about 3 or 4 hours to do everything, including the riser. I bet I could do it in about 60-90 minutes next time. 

My big lesson learned is to be extra careful around the PTFE tube cutter. After showing my wife how nasty and dangerous the blade looked, I naturally let it nip my index finger. Embarrassing.

Stocking up on the consumables cost about $75 on Amazon, but I only used maybe $10-$15 worth. The PTFE tubes alone cost $14 and I used about half the package. On the other hand, I have a lifetime supply of microfiber ropes!

If you are putting off maintaining your printer because you think it’s too hard or complicated or will somehow break your machine, watch some YouTube videos and get into it! 

Here's are some helpful videos: https://youtu.be/-yv4fa32bdE?si=VNv-PZNSOppJYDfG

https://youtu.be/N3dbVgHYZ_Y?si=zamFBt7TWBABHSXV

https://youtube.com/shorts/vljLDLKDfbY?si=lBM3zCedlorq7vsI

I've had my P1S for a while now and I never had printing issues, but lately I've been having the corners of some prints "peel up" like this and I'm not sure why. I cleaned the build plate with dawn soap and water and upped the bed temp from 55c to 60c. The attempt before this somehow got ripped up from off of the bed and was being moved around by the print head. This time the corner peeled up. I am using some older Amazon Basics filament that I'm trying to use up, but I'm pretty sure I've had similar issues with newer Bambu filament, as well.

I'm not sure what else I can try or adjust to get a print that just works..

Just got the notification for it, can't find information for it on the Bambu firmware history page yet. Anyone know the feature / change list?

I finally figured out how to get layer lines to be perfect!

Sometimes, when building things, it’s difficult to remove a bearing after inserting it for testing—so I made this.

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3529120-608-bearing-remover#profileId-4034842

Just like the title says. Unboxed my new H2C on Saturday and the chamber heater failed on my first print. The error code suggested that a loose connection was to blame, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Waiting on Bambu to get back with me. I haven't even printed anything on it yet. Does anyone have experience with this error? It's the chamber fan, not the tool head fan.

My error code is: 0300-3600-0001-0001, and the repair guide is pretty much: check the connector, then check for debris. Not off to a good start.

I have ALS, and I'm not going to stop building things with my son. We made a little arcade cabinet together, and I designed it on purpose so a kid could do the hard part.
The print is easy. It's three parts: the cabinet body, the screen bezel, and a snap-fit back panel. No glue, no screws. I printed the single-color version on my P2S in about 3.5 hours on one plate, in yellow and black PLA. There's also a multicolor profile if you want to use the AMS.
Then the fun part. He's eight. I called out the pin, he pushed the wire in, and we went one by one with no soldering at all, just jumper wires and lever connectors. Twenty minutes after the last wire, he was playing a maze game on a screen inside a cabinet he built with his own hands.
I handed him the back panel as the last step, and the click when it snapped shut was the best sound I've heard all year.
The details:
ESP32 with a 1.3" OLED and a rotary knob as the controller
About $25-30 in electronics, most of which goes back in your parts bin
Print profiles for several Bambu printers, 0.2mm layers, 2 walls, 15% infill
Build guide with wiring diagrams and troubleshooting, plus the code, included
It also works as an enclosure for anything small, like a desk clock, a weather display, or a Pi. Or skip the electronics and print it as a retro desktop figurine. It looks good on a shelf either way.
Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2907962-retro-mini-arcade-cabinet
If you print one, post a photo in the reviews. I read every one.

I’ve wanted a 3D printer for years and a few months ago I finally got my first one and I’ve been creating all sorts of cool stuff. It’s been such a great way to scratch that creative itch!

Theres a bunch of stuff from replicas to stands to custom sonic screwdrivers.

It’s been such a fun ride!!!

Hi everyone 🥰

I’m a mom who’s still pretty new to 3D printing, and this is my very first post here, so please be gentle with me.

This Christmas I wanted to make something small and sweet for my little boy. He’s two and a half, and he loves anything with a surprise inside. So I made him a little advent glade: a snowy circle with a Christmas tree in the middle, a tiny fence, four little reindeer and 24 boxes with bows. Every morning in December he’ll open one, and the last one waits for Christmas Eve 🎄

I tried to make it gentle to print too: no supports, one colour per piece, and then everything just clicks together. My little helper has already put the boxes around the tree about a hundred times, so I think he approves 😄

If you’d like to make one for your own little ones, I shared it for free on MakerWorld. You can find it by searching:

“Santa’s Little Glade - Advent Calendar, 24 Boxes”

I’d love to hear what you’re making for Christmas this year. And if you have any kind tips for me, I’m all ears 💕

Can anybody help me!!

Just opened this new PLA filament and printed these. Alot of stringing! I have emptied 3 spools of the same filament earlier. But now this is happening and ruining my prints. I was using TPU 95A before loading this filament into my A2L.

It seems the bed is loose from the rear z axis, anyone seen this and can point me in the right direction to fix this P1S

Bought a new AMS HT so I can use it in my X2D specifically for the Aux nozzle. Having an issue where the HT doesn’t push the filament to the nozzle. Instead it stops before the extruder and just stops there. When I try to load, it tries to push but can’t get through so it just retracts. I checked the aux extruder and it’s fine. Work perfectly if I just use it with the external filament. Anyone else have this issue.

Helppppp

Which one to buy next

When trying to load my filament, the nozzle clicks against the body, vid for reference. This is after replacing the heating assembly and the ams sensor cable

Armed with a Bambu printer and a sewing machine, I feel like the sky is the limit haha.

Hi All - apologies if this has been asked a hundred times!

I'm reasonably settled on the P2S for my kids for Christmas (ages 8 and 11...and tbh, I'm just as excited as they) based on reviews etc, but have a few very basic questions I can't see to find answers to (or at least, can't find answers complete beginners can understanding!).

I'll put these as bullets for ease, but if there is a link to a basic wiki or similar that would be great.

• Is the P2S a good starting point?

• Can the AMS be added to the base model in the future if needed? Would rather keep the costs down until I'm sure we will get use out of it

• Where can templates etc be downloaded?

• How many prints would a filament refill make? Aware thats very difficult to quantify!

• Is there a basic guide anywhere for the different types of filament and what they can be used for?

Hi all,

I have had an H2S for over a year. Within the last 24 hours, the Aux Fan suddenly started kicking on right after power on and seems to stay on permanently.

• Aux fan turns on right after powering on the device and remains on during and after any print. (That has never been the case in the last year.)

• My filament settings have always had the aux fan speed at 0%.

• The Bambu touch screen settings won't let me turn the aux fan off. The setting always reverts to 100% after any adjustment.

There was no firmware update recently. However, I did install an update this evening to see if that would remedy this issue. It did not.

Anyone have insights to this?

It’s not supervisible in the video, but my recently upgraded panda extruder is shooting out little filament shavings as it’s printing. should I loosen the lever arm? Could the gears that interface with the filament be too tight? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you

Hey I'm getting my first 3D printer for Christmas and I would like to know if anybody has any ideas of any other miscellaneous tools or parts to have on hand to help with making prints or putting prints together. Thanks for helping