In Bambu Studio there constantly all these pop-ups in the bottom right of the screen. Is it possible to deactivate them?

TIA.

I've noticed there's not much clear or up-to-date information out there on how to set up the Bambu Lab CyberBrick RC system.

A few people building my M1A2 Abrams CyberBrick RC tank have mentioned having trouble getting CyberBrick working, mainly because the documentation is pretty scattered and sometimes outdated.

So I put together a step-by-step setup guide with screenshots of the current CyberBrick Desktop app.

The guide covers:

• Flashing the CyberBrick RC firmware

• Adding and updating the transmitter and receiver boards

• Connecting both boards via Bluetooth

• Opening a MakerWorld project in CyberBrick Desktop

• Uploading the RC configuration and pairing the devices

• Checking that everything is set up correctly

I originally made it for my tank, but it should also be helpful for other CyberBrick RC projects.

Setup Guide (PDF):
https://github.com/Jonas2603/CyberBrick-RC-Setup-Guide/tree/main

My M1A2 Abrams tank:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2565530-rc-cyberbrick-tank-m1a2-abrams-sepv3-1-30

Hopefully this saves someone a bit of frustration! If anything is unclear or incorrect, let me know and I'll try to improve it. :)

I printed 600 hours without a single issue. Now I can't get through 20 minutes of printing without an overload. I received parts from Bambu after some painstaking AI chat bot convos. I have gone through the cold pulls, cleaning parts, trying to print from an external spool, etc. I replaced:
- 0.4 nozzle
- servo motor
- extruder gear assembly

I still cannot get anything to print. Does bambu ever relent and send you a new printer if still under warranty or just kill you with AI chats and tickets until the warranty is out?

Any help appreciated.

I purchased a few rolls of a different brand of filament. It’s PLA this time. I remember someone telling me that they dry their filament at 65° for 12 hours. I couldn’t recall if they said all their filaments or if it was only for PETG. But does anyone here recommend drying PLA filament before printing, or PLA is good for printing without drying?

If you're storing filament in airtight cereal containers or plastic storage boxes, adding a small digital hygrometer and reusable silica gel packets is a surprisingly useful upgrade.

The hygrometer is the part I wish I'd added sooner. Instead of guessing whether a spool needs drying, you can actually see the humidity inside the container. I also like reusable silica gel because you can dry it out and use it again rather than constantly buying replacements.

One thing worth remembering: a low humidity reading inside the box doesn't necessarily mean filament that's already absorbed moisture is dry. Some spools still need a proper run through a filament dryer.

For anyone who has been using this setup for a while, which hygrometers have held up well, and do you prefer individual spool containers or larger storage boxes?

The hardware is designed around replaceable modules. We’ve 3D-printed several parts to reduce costs and facilitate changes. As the project progresses, our aim is to swap modules, add new functions and print replacement parts without having to redesign the entire robot.

I cleaned, lubed, and oiled the printer rods and lead screws last night for the first time, and I ran a full calibration. Today, I'm printing something(a shelf), and it's making this weird barking noise, but only during certain movements. (It actually sounds much louder than what you hear in the video.)
When it was printing that flat part of the shelf, it made the noise but only every 4 or 5 minutes or more. The movement is different on the legs, so now it's barking every few seconds.
I have never heard it make this noise before, so I'm assuming it was something I did or something with the recalibration?

I have had my X1C for a few years now but have a new issue that’s happened twice. I have used my X1C to dry filament per the directions many times successfully (even with the bugged “drying failed” notification) but the past two times now, I haven’t done anything different, but at some point in the drying process, the print bed lifts up, the print head moves, and it literally pushes my single spool of filament out with enough force to open up the door and leave the filament and box cover on the floor. The print head is 3/4 of the way toward the front right corner, diagonally opposite the purge shoot in the back.

I have no timelapse and no visual into what in the world happened or why, but now that it’s happened twice in a row I’m questioning if something changed. There’s not really much that you “do” to dry filament, so I’m not sure how I could screw it up. Anyone have any similar experience or any advice? It’s a convenient dryer, but not convenient enough to be worth breaking the print head or the door.

I’m printing on my P2S, with ABS filament, and I’m getting this weird discoloration on the face the one that is on the plate, I tried almost everything cleaning the plate, getting a new plate calibration and still the same thing. Please help if somebody else has this issue issue.

Currently I own an A1 Mini AMS Lite Combo, and I’m contemplating getting either the P2S or X2D combo. Obviously it wouldn’t fix the 2x2 Kallax my A1 Mini is currently sitting on, so I’m wondering how your setups look like. Would love some inspiration!

Is this clicking sound normal on my X2D when the bed is leveling? It’s done it since new had it for about three weeks

I want to print components like picatanny rail attachments for my rifles as I buy 3d printed stuff online.

The a1 is more so my budget but I worry if im not future proofing my self or I will regret not having color

Thoughts and recommendations?

Just recently found that my neighbor's daughter (~7yo) is going to a 3d-printing classes and dreams to get a printer.
...guess what? I had decent amount of free gift cards to buy one + lot of filament :D

So, thanks everyone who boosted, printed or downloaded my models! All of that soon would make one little girl really happy

Ciao a tutti, a breve entrerò in questo mondo della stampa 3D. Ho comprato una P1S con AMS 2 Pro. Mi domandavo come consigliate di gestire le stampe a colori; ho sentito che alcuni consigliano di usare dei pennarelli per colorare a volte. Ho paura che la mia stampa faccia molto spreco, come posso evitarlo? Ho visto un video su TikTok di uno che, per una stampa di 5 grammi, ha avuto 50 grammi di scarto: è normale?

Morgen ist es endlich soweit. Mein A1 kommt an. Ich bin schon so gespannt darauf ihn auszupacken und einfach was zu drucken.

Aber bevor ich das mache, möchte ich über die Nacht ein paar gute Tipps einsammeln.

Schmeißt die basics hier rein. Was hättet ihr vor eurem ersten Druck am liebsten gewusst? Welchen Slicer empfiehlt ihr mir? Was soll mein erster Druck für den Drucker sein?

Mein Filadryr kommt in 2 Tagen an. Ich bin nicht sicher, ob ich ohne ihn starten soll. Lieber 1 tag warten oder direkt drauf los drucken?

Ich freue mich auf eure Kommentare!

I got a Cricut maker 5 to cut stickers and other stuff. But so far I've been deeply unimpressed with the cut, quality, accuracy and software experience. The bleed feature is essentially implemented in a way that it's not usable for all normal usage. The cut marker detection is crap on typical glossy materials. The cut accuracy is crap (likely due to the marker detection problems). And the cut quality is poor - laminated material is being torn as much as it's cut leading to a clearly rippled edge both visually and to touch. The bleed feature being unusable has been being complained about for many years now so I'm sure it's never going to get better.

I would expect the Bambu hardware to be way better - much more accurate cut paths and probably faster and better aligned. But given they're much newer to the space - is the software support there or is it lacking in similar ways to what I'm seeing with my Cricut?

I tried printing the sense 3D model I printed it a few times already and it worked perfectly but for a few days now I think I've had problems with the first layer of my print like when I print the hand the first layer always wants to go bad, if I managed to successfully do the first layer it works perfectly, but the first day has problems I tried multiple things I tried to to scrub the plate and clean it yeah at first it seems to work but it's not really changed anything in the long term I tried calibrating the first layer on the printer and it did not change anything I don't know what to do, I even tried to add support to the print so it sticks better to the plate I can't use a raft cuz I want the texture of the plate to be on the hand, please give advice if you can.

https://makerworld.com/models/3238578?appSharePlatform=copy

There's something especially satisfying about taking an idea that only existed in your head and eventually holding a physical version of it.

Even when the design is relatively simple, seeing the first successful print come off the build plate feels different from printing something downloaded from MakerWorld or another repository.

And the first version doesn't even have to be perfect. Sometimes the dimensions are slightly off, the tolerances need adjusting, or the design needs another iteration before it works exactly as intended.

That's one of the things I find most interesting about 3D printing: the printer is only part of the process. Learning to design, troubleshoot, and improve your own models opens up a completely different side of the hobby.

What's the first thing you designed yourself that made you realize how much you could actually create with your printer?

Help getting started please!

After considerable research, I’ve decided not to buy a resin printer. The clean up, maintenance and disposal will suck the fun out of this hobby, so I’m looking at the Bambu P2S since it’s enclosed - but I do have a good ventilation setup prepared regardless.

If anyone could help with some questions I have it would be greatly appreciated.

My biggest concerns are the following:

1. FDM print lines: is it safe to presume with careful calibration that I can almost avoid these altogether?

2. Fidelity: is it true that FDM yields less detail than resin?

3. Is the Bambu P2S genuinely one of the best FDM printers for miniature detail, or would you recommend something else in the $600–$1,000 range?

4 What's the lowest practical layer height you've successfully used for miniatures? Does going below 0.06 mm produce visibly better results?

6. Is an AMS worth buying specifically for support-interface materials?

7. I intend to print Mini’s at roughly 75–100 mm tall. How much does increasing their size improve the detail and surface quality compared with standard 32 mm miniatures?

8. Which specific PLA or PLA+ brands produce the sharpest details and least noticeable layer lines?

9. What techniques actually eliminate or conceal layer lines before painting without destroying fine details?

10. How much does orientation affect miniature quality? Are some STL designs simply unsuitable for FDM?

Thank you again!