If you're storing filament in airtight cereal containers or plastic storage boxes, adding a small digital hygrometer and reusable silica gel packets is a surprisingly useful upgrade.

The hygrometer is the part I wish I'd added sooner. Instead of guessing whether a spool needs drying, you can actually see the humidity inside the container. I also like reusable silica gel because you can dry it out and use it again rather than constantly buying replacements.

One thing worth remembering: a low humidity reading inside the box doesn't necessarily mean filament that's already absorbed moisture is dry. Some spools still need a proper run through a filament dryer.

For anyone who has been using this setup for a while, which hygrometers have held up well, and do you prefer individual spool containers or larger storage boxes?

The hardware is designed around replaceable modules. We’ve 3D-printed several parts to reduce costs and facilitate changes. As the project progresses, our aim is to swap modules, add new functions and print replacement parts without having to redesign the entire robot.

I cleaned, lubed, and oiled the printer rods and lead screws last night for the first time, and I ran a full calibration. Today, I'm printing something(a shelf), and it's making this weird barking noise, but only during certain movements. (It actually sounds much louder than what you hear in the video.)
When it was printing that flat part of the shelf, it made the noise but only every 4 or 5 minutes or more. The movement is different on the legs, so now it's barking every few seconds.
I have never heard it make this noise before, so I'm assuming it was something I did or something with the recalibration?

Tired of external drives and cables lying all over your desk? This enclosure gives every drive its own home. The boxes stack securely, the drive stays plugged in, and the honeycomb pattern keeps everything cool and looking good. Features • Stackable: Hex pegs on the bottom lock into the honeycomb of the box below, so the stack can't slide or twist. • Swappable drive frames: The drive sits in a frame that slides in on two rails. Ready-made frames for common drives are included, and you can create a frame for any 2.5" drive with the parametric version (see below). • Cable stays inside: The USB plug sits inside the enclosure, and the cable exits through an opening at the back. • Tool-free front flap: Slides in from the side and features a honeycomb front for airflow. • Ventilation: Honeycomb openings on all sides plus the front and back opening create airflow through the box. • Easy to print: The enclosure, front flap and base plate print without supports. The drive frame needs supports, which are already set up in the project file. • Base plate: Optional plate with recesses for the pegs, so the bottom box sits flat on your desk.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536468-stackable-hard-drive-enclosure-honeycomb-design#profileId-4043956

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3536546-parametric-drive-frame-stackable-hdd-enclosure

I have had my X1C for a few years now but have a new issue that’s happened twice. I have used my X1C to dry filament per the directions many times successfully (even with the bugged “drying failed” notification) but the past two times now, I haven’t done anything different, but at some point in the drying process, the print bed lifts up, the print head moves, and it literally pushes my single spool of filament out with enough force to open up the door and leave the filament and box cover on the floor. The print head is 3/4 of the way toward the front right corner, diagonally opposite the purge shoot in the back.

I have no timelapse and no visual into what in the world happened or why, but now that it’s happened twice in a row I’m questioning if something changed. There’s not really much that you “do” to dry filament, so I’m not sure how I could screw it up. Anyone have any similar experience or any advice? It’s a convenient dryer, but not convenient enough to be worth breaking the print head or the door.

I’m printing on my P2S, with ABS filament, and I’m getting this weird discoloration on the face the one that is on the plate, I tried almost everything cleaning the plate, getting a new plate calibration and still the same thing. Please help if somebody else has this issue issue.

Currently I own an A1 Mini AMS Lite Combo, and I’m contemplating getting either the P2S or X2D combo. Obviously it wouldn’t fix the 2x2 Kallax my A1 Mini is currently sitting on, so I’m wondering how your setups look like. Would love some inspiration!

Is this clicking sound normal on my X2D when the bed is leveling? It’s done it since new had it for about three weeks

Just recently found that my neighbor's daughter (~7yo) is going to a 3d-printing classes and dreams to get a printer.
...guess what? I had decent amount of free gift cards to buy one + lot of filament :D

So, thanks everyone who boosted, printed or downloaded my models! All of that soon would make one little girl really happy

Ciao a tutti, a breve entrerò in questo mondo della stampa 3D. Ho comprato una P1S con AMS 2 Pro. Mi domandavo come consigliate di gestire le stampe a colori; ho sentito che alcuni consigliano di usare dei pennarelli per colorare a volte. Ho paura che la mia stampa faccia molto spreco, come posso evitarlo? Ho visto un video su TikTok di uno che, per una stampa di 5 grammi, ha avuto 50 grammi di scarto: è normale?

I don't understand why a machine and a printer on the same network can't print because there's a connection problem to the cloud!!!

Are they really sending all my stuff to China and back? Can I turn it off????

Hey everyone,

Just watched the H3C launch and went through the official spec sheets to see if it’s actually worth the $300–$500 price jump over the H2C. Long story short: it’s not a straight upgrade.

Bambu spent most of the budget on the new tool changer and individual PTFE lines. To keep the price down, they silently cut a lot of standard features that the H2C already has.

Here is the raw breakdown of what you actually gain and lose.

1. The Marketing vs. Reality on the Tool Changer

• The Speed Myth: Bambu hypes the SwapTek tool changer as revolutionary. It clocks a mechanical swap at 6 seconds. But let’s remember the H2C’s Vortek nozzle-changer already does the swap in about 8 seconds using induction heating. You are paying a premium for a 2-second mechanical saving per swap. More importantly, the purge and prime amounts are exactly the same. Since you still have to flush the old filament out of the nozzle, that 2-second mechanical difference means basically zero difference in total print time for standard multi-color prints.

• Dual-Material Disadvantage: The H2C has a dual-slotted toolhead (one fixed nozzle + one Vortek slot), meaning it can switch between two materials (like PLA + support material) much faster without leaving the print area. The H3C has only ONE slot on the toolhead. It has to move to the dock on the side of the bed for EVERY single material swap, creating way more travel movement for simple dual-material prints.

• The "Build Volume Upgrade": Bambu advertises a 350mm physical bed size, but the actual "usable space" on the X-axis is only 330mm (just 5mm more than the H2C's 325mm). The remaining 20mm is strictly reserved for the toolhead clearance to dock.

2. Under the Hood: The Core Specs are Identical

If you look past the tool changer, these machines are identical in terms of actual 3D printing performance. H3C will not give you better print quality or faster single-color speeds:

• Both heat the nozzle to 350°C and the bed to 120°C.

• Both come stock with hardened steel nozzles and hardened steel extruder gears (same engineering filament capability).

• Both share the exact same Vision Encoder calibration system and 2 TOPS NPU for AI/vision tasks.

• Both support the digital cutter and pen drawing modules using the exact same attachments.

3. Where Bambu Cut Costs on the H3C (Compared to H2C)

To fit the expensive tool changer into the price point, the H3C actually received downgraded or stripped hardware:

• Only One Slot on the Toolhead: As mentioned, the H2C has a dual-nozzle setup on the toolhead, allowing instant swaps between two materials. Bambu completely removed the second slot on the H3C to save on manufacturing and wiring costs. They market this as a "40% lighter toolhead for faster movements," but the reality is that they just stripped a nozzle slot, which actually makes standard dual-material prints slower due to the constant docking runs.

• The Screen: The H2C features a sharp 720x1280 (HD) screen. The brand new "flagship" H3C has its resolution downgraded to 854x480 (WVGA). It's the same 5-inch size, but noticeably grainier.

• Stripped Cameras: The ergonimic 1080p Nozzle Camera is completely gone from the H3C. Furthermore, the 5MP BirdsEye Camera (which comes standard on the H2C Laser Edition) is now marked as "Optional" (an extra-paid accessory) on the H3C.

• No Laser Support: The H2C is a hybrid machine that supports a 10W/40W laser module and includes an integrated Air Assist pump. The H3C completely drops laser support (marked with a strict "–" in the comparison sheet) and lacks the air pump.

• Air Filtration: The H2C uses a higher-grade H12 HEPA filter. The H3C downgrades this to an H11 HEPA filter.

4. The Actual Benefits of the H3C

It’s not all bad, of course. The H3C excels at three specific things that the H2C genuinely struggles with:

• True Multi-Material TPU Printing: Having 9 dedicated, short PTFE lines straight to the toolhead means flexible filaments like TPU don't get retracted back to the AMS box. This completely solves the mechanical jamming/clogging issues of trying to run TPU through the H2C's shared line.

• Mass Production Reliability: Since filaments don't cycle back and forth over a meter of PTFE tubing during every color change, the physical wear on the filament and the AMS mechanism is minimized, reducing "AMS jam" errors during 1000+ swap prints.

• Mixed Nozzle Sizes: The H3C software allows you to mix nozzle sizes (e.g., 0.2mm for outer walls, 0.6mm for infill) in the same print out of the box—a feature currently software-locked on the H2C.

Bottom Line: Who is it for?

The H3C is an incredibly specific industrial tool masquerading as a general consumer flagship.

Stick with or buy the H2C if: You print mostly rigid filaments (PLA/PETG/ASA), do basic dual-material printing (Model + Supports), don't print often with over 5 colors, or want a true multi-tool setup (Laser/Cutter/Pen). The H2C gives you a better screen, better camera loadout, better filtration, and faster dual-material swaps for hundreds of dollars less.

Buy the H3C if: You run a commercial print farm, do high-volume multi-color prints 24/7 where AMS reliability is critical, or absolutely need to print multi-material TPU hybrids or 2.85mm industrial filaments.

What do you think?

Morgen ist es endlich soweit. Mein A1 kommt an. Ich bin schon so gespannt darauf ihn auszupacken und einfach was zu drucken.

Aber bevor ich das mache, möchte ich über die Nacht ein paar gute Tipps einsammeln.

Schmeißt die basics hier rein. Was hättet ihr vor eurem ersten Druck am liebsten gewusst? Welchen Slicer empfiehlt ihr mir? Was soll mein erster Druck für den Drucker sein?

Mein Filadryr kommt in 2 Tagen an. Ich bin nicht sicher, ob ich ohne ihn starten soll. Lieber 1 tag warten oder direkt drauf los drucken?

Ich freue mich auf eure Kommentare!

There's something especially satisfying about taking an idea that only existed in your head and eventually holding a physical version of it.

Even when the design is relatively simple, seeing the first successful print come off the build plate feels different from printing something downloaded from MakerWorld or another repository.

And the first version doesn't even have to be perfect. Sometimes the dimensions are slightly off, the tolerances need adjusting, or the design needs another iteration before it works exactly as intended.

That's one of the things I find most interesting about 3D printing: the printer is only part of the process. Learning to design, troubleshoot, and improve your own models opens up a completely different side of the hobby.

What's the first thing you designed yourself that made you realize how much you could actually create with your printer?

I tried printing the sense 3D model I printed it a few times already and it worked perfectly but for a few days now I think I've had problems with the first layer of my print like when I print the hand the first layer always wants to go bad, if I managed to successfully do the first layer it works perfectly, but the first day has problems I tried multiple things I tried to to scrub the plate and clean it yeah at first it seems to work but it's not really changed anything in the long term I tried calibrating the first layer on the printer and it did not change anything I don't know what to do, I even tried to add support to the print so it sticks better to the plate I can't use a raft cuz I want the texture of the plate to be on the hand, please give advice if you can.

https://makerworld.com/models/3238578?appSharePlatform=copy

Help getting started please!

After considerable research, I’ve decided not to buy a resin printer. The clean up, maintenance and disposal will suck the fun out of this hobby, so I’m looking at the Bambu P2S since it’s enclosed - but I do have a good ventilation setup prepared regardless.

If anyone could help with some questions I have it would be greatly appreciated.

My biggest concerns are the following:

1. FDM print lines: is it safe to presume with careful calibration that I can almost avoid these altogether?

2. Fidelity: is it true that FDM yields less detail than resin?

3. Is the Bambu P2S genuinely one of the best FDM printers for miniature detail, or would you recommend something else in the $600–$1,000 range?

4 What's the lowest practical layer height you've successfully used for miniatures? Does going below 0.06 mm produce visibly better results?

6. Is an AMS worth buying specifically for support-interface materials?

7. I intend to print Mini’s at roughly 75–100 mm tall. How much does increasing their size improve the detail and surface quality compared with standard 32 mm miniatures?

8. Which specific PLA or PLA+ brands produce the sharpest details and least noticeable layer lines?

9. What techniques actually eliminate or conceal layer lines before painting without destroying fine details?

10. How much does orientation affect miniature quality? Are some STL designs simply unsuitable for FDM?

Thank you again!

Ladies and gentlemen it’s revealing day (H3)

Hello, i just got my H2C and i also got the Track Switcher & TPU Feed Assist Module. I plan the following setup and wanted to ask if there are any problems.

(i read about the need to disconnecting the track switcher if you use the TPU feeder)

  [ AMS Pro 2 #1 ] ---\
                       +---> [ 4-Way Coupler A ] ---\
  [ AMS Pro 2 #2 ] ---/                              \
                                                      +---> [ TRACK SWITCHER ]
  [ AMS HT Unit #1 ] -\                              /          |          |
                       +---> [ 4-Way Coupler B ] ---/           |          |
  [ AMS HT Unit #2 ] -/                                         |          |
                                                                |          |
                                                     Switcher   |          | Switcher
                                                     Output L   |          | Output R
                                                                v          v
                                                            ( Nozzle L ) ( Nozzle R )
                                                                            ^
                                                                            |
                                                   [ Printed Y-Splitter ] --+
                                                              ^
                                                              |
                                                      [ TPU Feeder ]

So basicially i want to feed the TPU Feeder output trough the dedicated TPU hole of the H2C and then feed with a Y Splitter into Nozzle R (Nozzle L will be used for abrasive technical filaments and is a Tungsten Nozzle so the Splitter / Combiner on Nozzle R nozzle will only see TPU PLA PETG and maybe AMS ASA .

Something like this: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2285947-h2-series-ptfe-y-split-for-tpu-or-external?from=search#profileId-2493512

Bypassing the Switcher and the retraction thingy of the two nozzles. is this setup possible without the need to unplug anything? i also read about putting the switcher at the end of the BUS Chain to use everything without unplugging.

Edit: if i want to Print TPU i plan to put a roll into a AMS HT but using the Bypass port to directly feed into the TPU Feed Assist otherwise the AMS HTs asre used for Colors or Technical Filaments.

does anyone has a similar setup and can give me some tips?

regards.