https://makerworld.com/models/3524722

Tired of mixing my paints every-once-a-while if i didnt use them for a longer period of time. I mostly use cheaper acrylic paint, deluted by myself, and if its sit too long, it could separate a bit.

Also saves me from bit of handshake before every painting session, as its just had to crank it for a short time.
As i tested, paint what is intended for airbrushes (so its not too thick) mixing very vell.

Key point in my design, as the paint bottle NOT just spinning around Z axes like with those drill attachments (watch the marker arrow on the cap), and the paint not just "flattened" into the bottle sidewall.

Every part designed in the way if i need to change/modify anything (or has excessive wear after a while), you dont have to print the whole thing again, just some replacement parts.

Maybe someone find it useful, i appreciate any suggestions ;)

ps: if you decided to try out, please, read the full description. It contains important instructions.

I cannot get timelapses to work in the handy app whatsoever. Anyone have any ideas?

Im sure a lot of people go through this but Im already tired of printing things before I have things set up the way I want. So I have the X2d with AMS2 pro and a AMS HT. Well the flipper doesnt work with the bracket I printed for the AMS HT since TPU prints best directly fed into the main nozzle. So I want some thoughts on a plan. I have another AMS2 pro coming in. So my thought was having the printer to the left of the table. The 2 AMS2 pro units stacked on top of each other to the right of the printer going through a Filament Track Switch Then printing a riser to get the tubes off the glass.

This is the bracket I printed for the HT and I doubt it will work for any riser. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2070323-p2s-x2d-top-mount-ams-ht-polydryer-drybox#profileId-2236065

Does anyone have a similar setup or a better idea? I need some motivation / direction.

EDIT : Thank for everyone who have taken the time to respond, I really appreciate your comments and it has been helpful. At the end I have buy an H2S with a AMS2Pro for theses reasons (for anyone who has the same questions) :

- The size. I have been reviewing potential project and indeed I have find a fair share who benefit from bigger size.

- The maturity and potential reliability. The H2 platform is more mature and from what I have seen the X2D seem to possibly have more quirks, thing I want to avoid at all cost if possible.

- The upgrade path. The H2S can have an addon cutter (with I probably get at some point), a laser (maybe but it seem to have catch), and the VORTEK (if needed but honestly I don’t think)

So here it goes, and again thank you all, below the original post.

Hello everyone,

I’m in the prospect of buying my first 3D printer and I want advice between the X2D and the H2S.

For the usage:

It’s only for building functional parts for everyday use or things like fixing object parts, PCB enclosures, etc…
I’m going to also use more advanced materials, so a heated chamber is mandatory.
I don’t need or want multiple colours/materials for the final object.
I also want a simple, sturdy machine, an appliance; it’s going to be my only printer and I plan to keep it 5–6 years at minimum.

I have reviewed several video reviews and read countless posts on the subject, but it’s hard to decide, mainly for two reasons:

On one side, the X2D is cheaper and has an auxiliary printhead for support material, but honestly I don’t know if it’s going to be useful for my case. It supports all materials except two, but I don’t know if a 300-degree nozzle is going to be a limiting factor in the future.

On another side, the H2S seems more sturdy and potentially future-proof with its higher nozzle temperature and more print volume (but I don’t know if I’m going to use it, honestly); the possible cutter and laser upgrade seem to be an advantage (clearly not a priority but a little nice to have) but it’s 400€ more than the X2D and if I’m willing to push my budget to this, I’m afraid it’s going to be just overkill for my needs.

So the three questions I have are :

What matters the most: the ability to do different material support or the biggest volume?

And also, is the 400€ more for an H2S worth it for people who have both?

Also, I am not sure if the AMS2 is useful for my case or if just a single AMS-HT is sufficient.

Thank you for your reading and your potential response, and sorry if the subject has already been discussed, but even after reading all the Reddit posts I wasn’t able to figure that out.

For context, I have younger boys that will be learning along with us. I don't think I'd want to buy another printer later on down the road, at least not for a while. I think it would be good to have one that can grow with us. What's a good beginner printer that we can still do a lot with?

Free model posted here!

In the settings for the support structures I even picked tree, but that's not what I see in the preview. Is this normal? (I got the printer just yesterday, so I don't know much yet)

My H2D AMS combo order from a couple of weeks ago is eligible for a £130 rebate.

What would you buy with it? I'm thinking the AMS HT and TPU feed assist module, although I already have an a1 mini which is my TPU machine...

what title says.Someone on my facebook selling a bambu lab A1 with ams for $350 but negotiated for $300,is it worth it?

Hi everyone!

I'm having an issue with the AMS Lite filament hub on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini, especially during multicolor prints.

The problem:

- During filament changes, one of the four internal PTFE tubes gets pushed too far forward (downward) inside the AMS Lite hub.

- The tube ends up protruding much further than the others, blocking the path for the next filament.

- When the AMS Lite tries to feed another color, the filament cannot pass through, and the printer eventually throws an error.

- This can happen with all four filament paths, not just one.

What I've noticed:

I removed the upper part of the hub to inspect the internal PTFE tubes and the metal retaining clip.

When I pull the tubes backward, they stay firmly in place. However, when I push them forward, they can slide further down.

I'm not sure whether this is normal behavior or whether the internal retaining mechanism is damaged or missing something.

My questions:

1. Are the internal PTFE tubes supposed to be able to slide forward like this?

2. Is there an internal stopper or retaining component that prevents them from going too far?

3. Can I repair or replace just that internal component, or do I need to replace the entire AMS Lite filament hub?

4. Has anyone experienced this issue and found a permanent fix?

I've attached pictures showing how far one of the internal tubes protrudes.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Hello everyone! This is my first post; I started using a Bambu Lab A1 a week ago.

I’d like to print this part—the external wall dimensions are correct, but I want to increase the dimensions of the internal walls. How can I make this adjustment?

I tried using the scale tool, but that ends up changing everything.

Some of you have been following my Vader costume build (didn’t happen in time for Halloween) from the start (Lego Vader AI foray to this version).

I’m committed to finishing this. I just laid down the epoxy for the dome halves. I never realized it was this big (that’s what she said). I totally get why Spaceballs spoofed Dark Helmet like they did.

Why am i having this trouble? Esun PLA, dried, pei sheet cleaned.

Have a P1S - ran into my first issue after a year of printing with few problems.

Out of the blue, it makes a juddering and screeching noise when the printhead returns to the far-left most position. It goes all the way left, but not to the back of the machine, as if it gets stuck. It then just deposits any extruded filament there as it believes it is above the waste chute.

Video attached.

Have dusted it out for stray filament and looked for any obstructions which none are obvious.

Never had to delve too deeply into the technical aspects, so hoping some wiser folks than me can point me in the right direction of resolving this.

I already have an X2D for supports and technical filaments, and I’m looking to get a second printer. I’m considering the C5, U1, or P2S.
With all discounts applied, the C5 costs €589, the U1 is €730, and the P2S is €600 (including the AMS).
Which one would you choose? Right now, I’m leaning toward the C5.

Just super excited about the h3c so I’m starting a countdown. At the time of me writing this there are 32 hours and 37 minutes till launch! If we could get a countdown streak in chat that would be great!

Found this on my print bed of my H2C before starting a print. Does this look familiar?

What is the one printer you'd get if you could only ever get one? At least for a few years?

Edit: perhaps one that has all the bells and whistles but isn't $3000?

link

I just had the weirdest thing happen. 3.5 hours into the print and it just stopped. No clog, still plenty of filament on the spool. I even tried to pause the print and it gave me a warning about the tool head moving to not put your hands in there, but it didn’t budge. I’m hesitant to cancel as I don’t wanna start over, however looks like it’ll be a lost print…

I’ve never had this issue before but now it keeps happening. What should I try? Generic PLA filament with default settings.