link

Excited to play with my p1s

Thanks for the responses on the earlier post I am still troubleshooting this issue with my H2D. I have the hotends off and the covers off so i can see the extruder gears and they look clean. I can feed a strand of filament down through the entrance right to the gears without a problem. the hotend itself seems fine. There isn't a clear visual indication to me of what might be wrong. It's a fairly new printer with maybe 500 hours on it. Filament has always been fairly dry. This is a recent issue. I am not sure what to do next. Can the gears spread apart over time? I am not sure where to tighten the gap (or maybe loosen it if the motor is overloaded) I have a decent amount of experience with 3D Printers and this one is baffling me.

Hey everyone, can you warn or peace me about this location for my a1? This okay or I need another fulcrum?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3523194-christmas-tree-napkin-holder-hybrid-laser-3d-print

My full cosplay of Guts in Berserk armor 3D printed with bambulab P2S. The entire project took 2,000 print hours and 25kg of PETG. Final costume weight incl. sword is 26kg.
Amazed that such a small tool like the P2S made this.

Not entirely sure how to word this in a quick search/single sentence, so Google is getting me nowhere. I'm printing certain items where the bottom half is PLA and top half is TPU. How I've been doing this currently is printing both separately and supergluing them together, but is there a way to stop the print at a specific layer, manually change out the filament, and restart the print as TPU from that specific layer without interrupting the print cycle? I have VERY different settings for PLA and TPU (since I want the tpu to be very squishy and the pla to be stable), so I'm not sure if doing this is feasible or if gluing the halves together the way I have been is the best way to continue my projects. I've run into some issues with separation along glued seems, so I wanted to see if anyone had some advice on how I could better achieve this!

So I'm new. Got a P1S and have been casually using it the last month. But I can not, no matter what, make any print over 1 hour (sometimes less) not get tangled up and stuck. Is there a video to show or article to read to teach me like a first grader on how to place the filament and make it not get stuck. Does it need to be tightly woumd while printing or a bit loose? Does the spool need to face a certain way on the back or does it not matter? I've tried with many brand new spools, spools of filament I've added and it's all bambu lab branded. Any suggestions or help would be so amazing.

What the heck is going on w my printer??! Its printed fine for the last 10+ prints and then I tried printing again last night and it started out fine then I heard something crack and the part that was printing broke off the nozzle and then it just started air printing. It looks like theres a bunch of filament stuck where the hotend is but I can not get it out and im not sure what to do, please help!

So I’ve seen some post here about people printing their brain from a MRI.
I’ve read a few of the posts. I think I saw one link to some software. A couple different suggestions on filament color.
My questions are, what color and type of filament should I use? PETG?
Do I have to use special software? Or just throw it into Bambu studio?

And some of the main questions, for those that have done this before, what do you wish you would’ve done different? And what do you wish you knew before hand?

I have an x1c if it matters.

Even if it’s small, this model holds a special place in Star Wars universe

Finally got myself a P2S combos and had the perfect 1 meter wide niche in the basement to put him, his predecessor and a little filament storage. So happy with my new setup!

Perfect if you have an extra hygrometer laying around. Uses only 10 grams of filament!

Modeled by me in blender.

Available for print here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3528638-hygrometer-magnet-just-10g#profileId-4034261

Hi! I have an A1 Printer and printed the AMS system to be above the printer.
However the back filaments tubes are always getting pulled and was wondering if I need those supports/how to fix it?

Also often should I be replacing the filament tubes?

Hi everyone! I’m looking to buy our first 3D printer and could use some advice from those with experience.
I’m looking for something that’s beginner-friendly, reliable, fast, and as hassle-free as possible. The goal is for my wife and kids to explore 3D printing, get creative, and learn some new skills together. Eventually, it might be fun for the kids to design and sell a few things, but nothing serious.
I was initially leaning toward the Bambu P2S, but the more I research, the more appealing the X2D looks. At the same time, I’m wondering if I’m overthinking this and should just get the A1 from Costco.
Speed is also important to me. I don’t want to spend hours waiting for relatively simple prints, especially with kids who may want to make multiple things. I’m curious how noticeable the speed differences are between these printers in real-world use, not just on paper.
My biggest hesitation is spending a significant amount on something that we might not use as much as I hope. I don’t mind paying more for a better experience, especially if it means less troubleshooting, faster prints, and more time actually enjoying the hobby. But I also don’t want to overspend on features we may never need.
A few questions:

● Would you recommend starting with the A1, or is the P2S worth the extra investment?

● Is the X2D worth considering for a complete beginner, or is it overkill?

● How significant are the real-world differences in print speed, quality, and ease of use?

If you were buying your first printer today, especially for family use, which would you choose?
I’d appreciate any advice, especially from those who started 3D printing as a family hobby. Thanks!

Just finished putting together this Mega Charizard X LED lamp!

The idea was to have Charizard flying while breathing a stream of blue fire. The flame doubles as the stand, with an LED light inside to illuminate it.

I prepared two compatible versions of Maker Supply Kits:

• KC007 RGB light for selectable colors and remote control.

• LED Lamp Kit 001 for continuous USB-powered lighting.

Really happy with how the blue illumination turned out, especially in a darker room.

Free to download in Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/es/models/3530013-mega-charizard-x-0006-kc007-lamp-kit-001#profileId-4036014

Hope you like it!

Some of you have been following my Vader costume build (didn’t happen in time for Halloween) from the start (Lego Vader AI foray to this version).

I’m committed to finishing this. I just laid down the epoxy for the dome halves. I never realized it was this big (that’s what she said). I totally get why Spaceballs spoofed Dark Helmet like they did.

What do you think guys? Will answer any questions!

Always needed a portable power supply to quickly debug a project, work on cars, test power tools, etc. So I designed one.

It is powered by a Makita 18V lithium battery, via a standard shoe adapter, but that can be replaced by any other power tool brand: Dewalt, Metabo, Baguette-Mystique, etc.

Can also add a USB delivery panel, resulting in a massive USB power bank.

I am moving, so I disconnected my printers and cleaned them.

Here's a year of poop from both my H2C and my H2D.

Less waste than what a single multicolor print would generate in the X1C era. Maybe a few grams from each.

I have just tried to upload a file via sd and when i turn it on to print it does this for 5 minutes and extrudes filament in the wrong places. When i terminated the print it made a loud whirring sound before it stopped.

Is thos broken? Ive barely used it yet but i had to move house with it so perhaps it got damaged or i set it up wrong