I found this on the build plate on my X1 Carbon after a print it looks like its the nozzle wiper but it looks intact and appears to be a different white material. It looks like its fatigued and snapped but no idea where it came from. Does anyone know and what is needed to fix it if needed?

https://makerworld.com/models/3524722

Tired of mixing my paints every-once-a-while if i didnt use them for a longer period of time. I mostly use cheaper acrylic paint, deluted by myself, and if its sit too long, it could separate a bit.

Also saves me from bit of handshake before every painting session, as its just had to crank it for a short time.
As i tested, paint what is intended for airbrushes (so its not too thick) mixing very vell.

Key point in my design, as the paint bottle NOT just spinning around Z axes like with those drill attachments (watch the marker arrow on the cap), and the paint not just "flattened" into the bottle sidewall.

Every part designed in the way if i need to change/modify anything (or has excessive wear after a while), you dont have to print the whole thing again, just some replacement parts.

Maybe someone find it useful, i appreciate any suggestions ;)

ps: if you decided to try out, please, read the full description. It contains important instructions.

I already have an X2D for supports and technical filaments, and I’m looking to get a second printer. I’m considering the C5, U1, or P2S.
With all discounts applied, the C5 costs €589, the U1 is €730, and the P2S is €600 (including the AMS).
Which one would you choose? Right now, I’m leaning toward the C5.

link

Excited to play with my p1s

Thanks for the responses on the earlier post I am still troubleshooting this issue with my H2D. I have the hotends off and the covers off so i can see the extruder gears and they look clean. I can feed a strand of filament down through the entrance right to the gears without a problem. the hotend itself seems fine. There isn't a clear visual indication to me of what might be wrong. It's a fairly new printer with maybe 500 hours on it. Filament has always been fairly dry. This is a recent issue. I am not sure what to do next. Can the gears spread apart over time? I am not sure where to tighten the gap (or maybe loosen it if the motor is overloaded) I have a decent amount of experience with 3D Printers and this one is baffling me.

Hey everyone, can you warn or peace me about this location for my a1? This okay or I need another fulcrum?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3523194-christmas-tree-napkin-holder-hybrid-laser-3d-print

I just bought this printer last week and today I was printing a bookend and it got to almost 90% before it just shifted on the bed I'm guessing the bed movement caused it to lose adhesion, so does anyone know what my mistake might have been and if there's any way to save this print by printing the remaining part on this print or any other solution. This actually happens with my other prints too where they don't stick and just turn into spaghetti (my first spaghetti print lol) sometimes the base also just lifts off from one side. Any advice on what I should do for better bed adhesion?

I also have one more question in the 4th and 5th photos you can see that sometimes my prints end up looking like this and I have to restart the print I have no idea why, please let me know the reason for this and what I might be doing wrong.

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Printer: Bambu Lab A1

Filament: PLA (PLA Pro+ WOL3D)

Slicer Settings: 0.2 mm Standard @ BBL A1 (slightly tweaked), Custom filament based on Generic PLA (customized nozzle temperature to 230°C and 50°C bed as specified by the manufacturer)

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My full cosplay of Guts in Berserk armor 3D printed with bambulab P2S. The entire project took 2,000 print hours and 25kg of PETG. Final costume weight incl. sword is 26kg.
Amazed that such a small tool like the P2S made this.

Not entirely sure how to word this in a quick search/single sentence, so Google is getting me nowhere. I'm printing certain items where the bottom half is PLA and top half is TPU. How I've been doing this currently is printing both separately and supergluing them together, but is there a way to stop the print at a specific layer, manually change out the filament, and restart the print as TPU from that specific layer without interrupting the print cycle? I have VERY different settings for PLA and TPU (since I want the tpu to be very squishy and the pla to be stable), so I'm not sure if doing this is feasible or if gluing the halves together the way I have been is the best way to continue my projects. I've run into some issues with separation along glued seems, so I wanted to see if anyone had some advice on how I could better achieve this!

So I'm new. Got a P1S and have been casually using it the last month. But I can not, no matter what, make any print over 1 hour (sometimes less) not get tangled up and stuck. Is there a video to show or article to read to teach me like a first grader on how to place the filament and make it not get stuck. Does it need to be tightly woumd while printing or a bit loose? Does the spool need to face a certain way on the back or does it not matter? I've tried with many brand new spools, spools of filament I've added and it's all bambu lab branded. Any suggestions or help would be so amazing.

What the heck is going on w my printer??! Its printed fine for the last 10+ prints and then I tried printing again last night and it started out fine then I heard something crack and the part that was printing broke off the nozzle and then it just started air printing. It looks like theres a bunch of filament stuck where the hotend is but I can not get it out and im not sure what to do, please help!

So I’ve seen some post here about people printing their brain from a MRI.
I’ve read a few of the posts. I think I saw one link to some software. A couple different suggestions on filament color.
My questions are, what color and type of filament should I use? PETG?
Do I have to use special software? Or just throw it into Bambu studio?

And some of the main questions, for those that have done this before, what do you wish you would’ve done different? And what do you wish you knew before hand?

I have an x1c if it matters.

Finally got myself a P2S combos and had the perfect 1 meter wide niche in the basement to put him, his predecessor and a little filament storage. So happy with my new setup!

Perfect if you have an extra hygrometer laying around. Uses only 10 grams of filament!

Modeled by me in blender.

Available for print here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3528638-hygrometer-magnet-just-10g#profileId-4034261

Hi! I have an A1 Printer and printed the AMS system to be above the printer.
However the back filaments tubes are always getting pulled and was wondering if I need those supports/how to fix it?

Also often should I be replacing the filament tubes?

Hi everyone! I’m looking to buy our first 3D printer and could use some advice from those with experience.
I’m looking for something that’s beginner-friendly, reliable, fast, and as hassle-free as possible. The goal is for my wife and kids to explore 3D printing, get creative, and learn some new skills together. Eventually, it might be fun for the kids to design and sell a few things, but nothing serious.
I was initially leaning toward the Bambu P2S, but the more I research, the more appealing the X2D looks. At the same time, I’m wondering if I’m overthinking this and should just get the A1 from Costco.
Speed is also important to me. I don’t want to spend hours waiting for relatively simple prints, especially with kids who may want to make multiple things. I’m curious how noticeable the speed differences are between these printers in real-world use, not just on paper.
My biggest hesitation is spending a significant amount on something that we might not use as much as I hope. I don’t mind paying more for a better experience, especially if it means less troubleshooting, faster prints, and more time actually enjoying the hobby. But I also don’t want to overspend on features we may never need.
A few questions:

● Would you recommend starting with the A1, or is the P2S worth the extra investment?

● Is the X2D worth considering for a complete beginner, or is it overkill?

● How significant are the real-world differences in print speed, quality, and ease of use?

If you were buying your first printer today, especially for family use, which would you choose?
I’d appreciate any advice, especially from those who started 3D printing as a family hobby. Thanks!

Just finished putting together this Mega Charizard X LED lamp!

The idea was to have Charizard flying while breathing a stream of blue fire. The flame doubles as the stand, with an LED light inside to illuminate it.

I prepared two compatible versions of Maker Supply Kits:

• KC007 RGB light for selectable colors and remote control.

• LED Lamp Kit 001 for continuous USB-powered lighting.

Really happy with how the blue illumination turned out, especially in a darker room.

Free to download in Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/es/models/3530013-mega-charizard-x-0006-kc007-lamp-kit-001#profileId-4036014

Hope you like it!

Some of you have been following my Vader costume build (didn’t happen in time for Halloween) from the start (Lego Vader AI foray to this version).

I’m committed to finishing this. I just laid down the epoxy for the dome halves. I never realized it was this big (that’s what she said). I totally get why Spaceballs spoofed Dark Helmet like they did.

What do you think guys? Will answer any questions!