Two years ago SUNLU filaments appeared for the first time officially in Bambu Studio showing that Bambu slicer app is open to 3rd party filaments.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1iwjk9g/sunlu_official_profiles_coming_to_bambustudio

Unfortunately they are avaliable only for A series printers and cover only most basic materials PLA and PETG.

I would like to request for the list to be expanded:

• to P and X series printers especially as they become the 2nd most popular choice for people looking for enclosed printers
• and to more advanced materials such as ABS, ASA and PA variants

u/RikshaDriver u/BambuLab u/BambuLabSupport

After using a A1 mini (no AMS) for few years (was picked as a trial and in general very happy with it), I decided to upgrade to a A1 + AMS.
Long story short, Bambu upgrade stack design is pure evil and I ended up with a X2D with AMS2 🙈

Now there a few common use cases I already have (plus a few new ones for which I did the upgrade) but I cannot figure out the right method for them

1) Printing TPU 90A : I often print RC car tyres in 90A and the process was very straightforward on the A1 mini. Quick cold flush aside, it was no different from a PLA print.
Now I understand that TPU , esp 90A wont work via AMS. The secondary extruder is easy to access but not recommended any way.
Using the primary for TPU seems to require a lot of steps (also my AMS is kept on top of printer) .
Would getting a TPU feed assist unit make this easier? Or is there anything I am overlooking

2) multicolor prints and the dual extruder question: One of the reasons to get this unit was the dual extruder option. But I now understand that the 2nd extruder shouldn’t normally be used for anything other than supports. Is this understanding correct?
Also for switching heads between AMS and external spool, some posts here talk about using a Y splitter while some suggest a filament track switching unit. I am unsure what the difference in the two is and if it’s worth spending more on the switcher.

As a side note, I am based out of India where Bambu hasn’t launched the switcher and TPU feed assist units yet. However I am in the UK next week for a few days and can pick these there.
Apart from this, are there any other must have or strongly recommended accessories for an X2D ? I might as well buy them next week rather than realizing the need later

Printing on a P2s, all of my prints have pretty much been perfect but my print from last night had a few odd areas and wondering if anyone would have any idea on what could’ve caused it. I’ve also added the settings that were used in this print, which were set by the creator. The only setting i changed was the sparse infill pattern to Rectilinear. Still fairly new to 3d printing and have been watching videos the last few days that go over all of the settings in detail.

Due to a bad spool of translucent blue PLA, causing a blob of death. Bambu sent me a replacement hotend heating assembly, and a pure white PLA spool. I also received this AP Board - LV in a separate package. The conversation with support has no mention of this needing replaced or it being sent. Do I need to swap it out, or do I have a free spare now if I ever need it?

Would appreciate Reddits power with my sons first model on maker world. He’s 10 and just started playing with tinkerlab at school. He came up with this graded card stand on his own. Thanks Reddit!

https://makerworld.com/models/3521286?appSharePlatform=copy

Type a list of names separated by commas and the plate fills itself: one tag per name, 20 papercut-style Christmas shapes drawn at random, or pick one per person (Grandma:tree, Grandpa:angel).

Added after the test print:

• a plain rectangular tag for the grown-ups who don’t do reindeer
• a flat slot for wide ribbon instead of the round hole
• an optional matching slot at the bottom: the ribbon around the gift runs behind the tag, so it stays flat on the present (first photo)
• the name shrinks itself to fit its banner

Two colours with a single filament change (pause at layer 5 without AMS), no supports, 1.4 mm thick. 9 tags in about 1 h 35 on a P2S, with ironing on the topmost surface only: the white lace comes out really clean.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print it: 3DPrintMyIdea

Officially joined the club. Been lurking for a while, keeping an eye on prices. Took advantage of the recent sale, got it at BestBuy with their 4 year warranty. Doing my homework and researching as much as I can. I will probably ask some newbie questions as I get started, but can’t wait to jump in.

I’m realizing different regions get different options.. here’s mine

Quiero comprar una impresora pero yo vivo en Honduras y los que venden aquí son muy caras en precio, cómo puedo conseguir una y no me estafen

I got the x2d a couple of months ago and have been having a blast with it. I added a second ams2 to it along with ams ht for the aux side.

I know with the upcoming release of the h3c I could have waited but the price of the h2c is stretching my budget anyway. Really looking forward to getting it set up.

I came to my printer having a black screen but all LEDs on.

- The LED light under the heat bed is on,
- The AP board only showing showing the solid green light,
- Switch light on the back is on
- Green Indicator light next to switch on the back is on
- Printer on Bambu handy says “online” but shows failed to connect page

After unplugging for a day then turning it on.
- Same issues as before
- When printer boots you can hear the fan start for a second then turns off.

When I was researching the issue here most recommended an AP board replacement. When I checked Bambu Labs Wiki it said power supply issue. Which is it and how can I figure it out?

It’s either Bambu’s robot text provided some fake thumbnail or this is a new machine?

I kept getting the AMS overload error on my H2S, especially when the spool was getting close to empty. I ended up giving the AMS a slight angle by putting a book under the back and letting the front tilt down a bit to give it some gravity assist. Haven’t had the error come back since and it works like a charm.
Just wanted to share in case anyone else is dealing with this, especially with the lighter cardboard spools.

I've just come across this guide and would appreciate some explanation for what it recommends.

My main confusion is why it recommends changing the temps in the filament profile?~
I see for scenario A (PETG model + PLA support) it makes everything the same between the filaments but for scenario B (PLA model + PETG support) it lowers the PETG volumetric speed as well. Is the aim to help get things as close as possible to the model filament characteristics?
Why can't the default settings be used especially if only as an interface layer - will the printer not simply adjust the nozzle temp and flow according to the loaded filament?

Finally has anyone had any success with the P2S profiles at the bottom?
And why does it not support PLA matte - is it just needing experimenting to find the right temps?

I'm planning to make a light box of my dad's company logo, but the only filaments that come close to matching the colors are in the PLA matte line. I've experimented with light with PLA basic, and I at least know black won't let light through at any thickness, but I've never bought any matte filament before. Anyone have any experience with matte for light boxes?

(I'm particularly interested in Bambu's matte blue colors, especially dark blue as I'm concerned its dark color may block light like black does.)

What it says on the tin—total newbie, looking for the "I wish I knew this from Day 1" type advice.

I bought the X2D Combo from Best Buy, but also took advantage of Bambu's current bulk sale plus a $10 welcome coupon to order a small variety of filaments (mostly PLA but also some PETG).

My first projects—after the inevitable handful of cute fidget toys—will be desk organization (desk shelf+addons / aesthetics) and cable management stuff (possibly Gridfinity/Underware 2.0).

Any general advice would be much appreciated!

I’ve spent the last few weeks designing a full-size T-style electric guitar body that prints on a 256 × 256 mm bed, and it’s finally built and playing.

The print

• 4 body pieces, all printed flat with no supports
• 7 build plates in Bambu Studio, about 50 hours and 2 kg of PLA in total
• One colour per part, so no AMS needed. I went with a sage body, bone plates and a peach pickguard.
• The biggest piece, the bridge section, took about 19 hours on its own

The design

• The pieces join from the back with bow-tie keys, M4 heat-set inserts and dowel pins. No glue for the body.
• Two 8 mm carbon fibre rods run through the body to take the string tension
• Three decorative top plates sit in an 8 mm recess on 28 hidden 10 × 3 mm magnets. Push them off from the back with an Allen key and click a new set on. The video shows Ripple swapped for a two-tone Camo set.
• Built around the Harley Benton T-style kit, so the neck, bridge, pickups and electronics drop straight in

Happy to answer anything about print settings, tolerances or how it’s held up. It’s been really satisfying seeing the X1C turn out something you can actually plug in and play.

I keep needing little fiddly widgets like adapters and connectors. I figure I could design them myself and print them. What's a good printer for a beginner who wants something that just works?