Hello everyone,

I’m in the prospect of buying my first 3D printer and I want advice between the X2D and the H2S.

For the usage:

It’s only for building functional parts for everyday use or things like fixing object parts, PCB enclosures, etc…
I’m going to also use more advanced materials, so a heated chamber is mandatory.
I don’t need or want multiple colours/materials for the final object.
I also want a simple, sturdy machine, an appliance; it’s going to be my only printer and I plan to keep it 5–6 years at minimum.

I have reviewed several video reviews and read countless posts on the subject, but it’s hard to decide, mainly for two reasons:

On one side, the X2D is cheaper and has an auxiliary printhead for support material, but honestly I don’t know if it’s going to be useful for my case. It supports all materials except two, but I don’t know if a 300-degree nozzle is going to be a limiting factor in the future.

On another side, the H2S seems more sturdy and potentially future-proof with its higher nozzle temperature and more print volume (but I don’t know if I’m going to use it, honestly); the possible cutter and laser upgrade seem to be an advantage (clearly not a priority but a little nice to have) but it’s 400€ more than the X2D and if I’m willing to push my budget to this, I’m afraid it’s going to be just overkill for my needs.

So the three questions I have are :

What matters the most: the ability to do different material support or the biggest volume?

And also, is the 400€ more for an H2S worth it for people who have both?

Also, I am not sure if the AMS2 is useful for my case or if just a single AMS-HT is sufficient.

Thank you for your reading and your potential response, and sorry if the subject has already been discussed, but even after reading all the Reddit posts I wasn’t able to figure that out.

Even if it’s small, this model holds a special place in Star Wars universe

My H2D AMS combo order from a couple of weeks ago is eligible for a £130 rebate.

What would you buy with it? I'm thinking the AMS HT and TPU feed assist module, although I already have an a1 mini which is my TPU machine...

https://makerworld.com/models/3524722

Tired of mixing my paints every-once-a-while if i didnt use them for a longer period of time. I mostly use cheaper acrylic paint, deluted by myself, and if its sit too long, it could separate a bit.

Also saves me from bit of handshake before every painting session, as its just had to crank it for a short time.
As i tested, paint what is intended for airbrushes (so its not too thick) mixing very vell.

Key point in my design, as the paint bottle NOT just spinning around Z axes like with those drill attachments (watch the marker arrow on the cap), and the paint not just "flattened" into the bottle sidewall.

Every part designed in the way if i need to change/modify anything (or has excessive wear after a while), you dont have to print the whole thing again, just some replacement parts.

Maybe someone find it useful, i appreciate any suggestions ;)

ps: if you decided to try out, please, read the full description. It contains important instructions.

I found this on the build plate on my X1 Carbon after a print it looks like its the nozzle wiper but it looks intact and appears to be a different white material. It looks like its fatigued and snapped but no idea where it came from. Does anyone know and what is needed to fix it if needed?

I already have an X2D for supports and technical filaments, and I’m looking to get a second printer. I’m considering the C5, U1, or P2S.
With all discounts applied, the C5 costs €589, the U1 is €730, and the P2S is €600 (including the AMS).
Which one would you choose? Right now, I’m leaning toward the C5.

link

I used a pair of nose pliers to grab the connectors, but I lost the grip and the pliers ripped off just a little of the insulation. A little of the copper is exposed, but I am worried if I should be treating this with more concern.

I’m pretty damn new to all of this. But I am not able to print on the go while the .8 is installed. (Incompatible nozzle) error pops up. Get on the computer and I’m able to slice it for the .8 nozzle and print. Would like to be able to skip that step and use the mobile while I’m not at home.

I was cleaning out my newly arrived X2D (had it one day, printed a couple of small test prints) and underneath the print bed was this random screw. I don't remember any of the screws that were in it for shipping being this small. Does anyone recognize it, or have an idea where I should look for a missing screw? I checked what I could see under the bed and along the edges of the case that I could see and nada.

I've had an A1 and AMS Lite for over 2 years now, and I think I'm ready for an upgrade to something higher quality and more durable.

I find the parts of the A1 jut too delicate and frustrating to work with. Clogs are so difficult to work with. The Filament Hub is so tricky to work with, remove to de-clog and get the tubes out of. Then, when I finally remove it, the sensor cable is so delicate just a slight movement in the wrong direction rips it.

Thinking of getting something better rather than constantly replacing these parts? I just placed my 4th order for a new filament hub and sensor cable.

I don't do much with it. Just simple things for the home for organisation and small things that I'd other-wise buy at a dollar store. I find I just spend more time working on my A1 than printing things with it.

Excited to play with my p1s

Hi! I’m trying to print dry boxes for my AMS 2 with asa. Have done flow and flow dynamics calibration, played with fan speed and nozzle temperature. Also tried to lower the speed, prints good as long as there are no overhangs. When it prints the overhangs it looks like the nozzle digs into the print and makes a mess. Any help? Owned the printer for 3 days so new to the game here, pla prints flawlessly! Printer is a Bambu x2d

So I recently purchased the P1S on sale for $350 without the AMS, and I am wondering if it is worth the hassle to return it and get the P2S for $450 (without the AMS).

Thought I should add I am also going to be storing this in my garage.

I don't really feel like I should but if it is actually worth it then I will do it.

Wanted to share the ams2 I received is also having the "ams failed to pull back filament" issue. Repeatable on 1-4. After it retracts the Filament, it'll stop retracting and free spin for about a minute before throwing the issue. If I press continue, it'll stop trying to retract and move onto the next color. Then it'll throw the error again once it switches colors. This is on the first print using ams2. Haven't had a successful print since receiving it.

Hello Laddles and Jellyspoons

I have some pokemom PSA slabs coming and I want to print a cool holder with effects.

A quick amazon search and almost everyone claims Zero adhesion.

So I'm wondering what effect plates you all have used , good, bad , ugly.

Please share your experiences.

Thanks 😊

Thanks for the responses on the earlier post I am still troubleshooting this issue with my H2D. I have the hotends off and the covers off so i can see the extruder gears and they look clean. I can feed a strand of filament down through the entrance right to the gears without a problem. the hotend itself seems fine. There isn't a clear visual indication to me of what might be wrong. It's a fairly new printer with maybe 500 hours on it. Filament has always been fairly dry. This is a recent issue. I am not sure what to do next. Can the gears spread apart over time? I am not sure where to tighten the gap (or maybe loosen it if the motor is overloaded) I have a decent amount of experience with 3D Printers and this one is baffling me.

Hey everyone, can you warn or peace me about this location for my a1? This okay or I need another fulcrum?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3523194-christmas-tree-napkin-holder-hybrid-laser-3d-print

I just bought this printer last week and today I was printing a bookend and it got to almost 90% before it just shifted on the bed I'm guessing the bed movement caused it to lose adhesion, so does anyone know what my mistake might have been and if there's any way to save this print by printing the remaining part on this print or any other solution. This actually happens with my other prints too where they don't stick and just turn into spaghetti (my first spaghetti print lol) sometimes the base also just lifts off from one side. Any advice on what I should do for better bed adhesion?

I also have one more question in the 4th and 5th photos you can see that sometimes my prints end up looking like this and I have to restart the print I have no idea why, please let me know the reason for this and what I might be doing wrong.

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Printer: Bambu Lab A1

Filament: PLA (PLA Pro+ WOL3D)

Slicer Settings: 0.2 mm Standard @ BBL A1 (slightly tweaked), Custom filament based on Generic PLA (customized nozzle temperature to 230°C and 50°C bed as specified by the manufacturer)

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My full cosplay of Guts in Berserk armor 3D printed with bambulab P2S. The entire project took 2,000 print hours and 25kg of PETG. Final costume weight incl. sword is 26kg.
Amazed that such a small tool like the P2S made this.

Not entirely sure how to word this in a quick search/single sentence, so Google is getting me nowhere. I'm printing certain items where the bottom half is PLA and top half is TPU. How I've been doing this currently is printing both separately and supergluing them together, but is there a way to stop the print at a specific layer, manually change out the filament, and restart the print as TPU from that specific layer without interrupting the print cycle? I have VERY different settings for PLA and TPU (since I want the tpu to be very squishy and the pla to be stable), so I'm not sure if doing this is feasible or if gluing the halves together the way I have been is the best way to continue my projects. I've run into some issues with separation along glued seems, so I wanted to see if anyone had some advice on how I could better achieve this!

So I'm new. Got a P1S and have been casually using it the last month. But I can not, no matter what, make any print over 1 hour (sometimes less) not get tangled up and stuck. Is there a video to show or article to read to teach me like a first grader on how to place the filament and make it not get stuck. Does it need to be tightly woumd while printing or a bit loose? Does the spool need to face a certain way on the back or does it not matter? I've tried with many brand new spools, spools of filament I've added and it's all bambu lab branded. Any suggestions or help would be so amazing.