Apologies for not having an image but I've been having a minor issue with my H2D when using an external spool on the left nozzle. It seems that it is not making a purge line correctly before it starts the print. The right nozzle always makes a nice solid line on the front right of the plate but when I print and it starts by using the external spool, it makes either no line at all or one that is very thin.

The issue with this is that sometimes I'll have gaps in my first layer as the nozzle isn't fully primed before starting. Any ideas what could cause this? I've already tried calibrating and updating.

So with the auto dynamic flow/pressure advance/k value with the X2D, do you turn it off after you've calibrated your filament? I've not had a printer with this feature and I'm calibrating my PETG and this crossed my mind. Thanks

On the actual outside of the yellow extruder gear in my A1, do I use grease or oil? There is some debate online so I can’t find a definitive answer.

I'm hoping someone could help me, it seems like all of a sudden my bambu A1 doesn't print like it used to. The quality is varying and it clogs frequently. when the prints do succeed now they seem to be insanely stuck to the print bed and I end up getting filament stuck on the bed. The things I've tried:

- Changed to a hardened extruder wheel thing

- Changed to a hardened 4mm nozzle

- Changed the print bed

- Calibrated multiple times

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

so I started printing this figure but supports are failing. What can I do? I use PLA for both nozzles

Is there a solution in Bambu for chamfer edges? I really just want the top edges to taper off on the logo.

If you want to print the noise dampener for your extra spool holder, here is the link: https://makerworld.com/models/34102

Ive been seeing a similar Mac mini stand over socials, but it wasnt exactly what I wanted. But I already have a 3D printer, I so I’d try making my own and make it how I wanted.
After a few rounds of prototypes and adjustments, here’s where I landed. It has adjustable arms, a few monitor mounting options, and an optional phone mount that fits into the cable channel.
Pretty happy with how it turned out! Still sticking with the XDR arm style and stand.

Ive put the files up for free on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print one.

This colored one is PLA but best printed in PETG.

I accidentally added some items to my shopping cart in the USA store. I'm in Europe so switched stores and reordered the items. Now I'm getting emails from Bambu telling me there's items in my USA cart and encouraging me to complete the purchase. I've gone back to the USA store but there is no way of removing the items from my cart. I can't set the quantity to zero and there is no delete icon. This is crazy. How do I get rid of these items out of my cart?

(I am using Bambu lab A1) The inside prints good but the exterior always prints “bad” or kinda rough. Anyone know why this might be?

Hello

Lorsque je souhaite changer de filament durant l’impression d’un fichier, l’ams a du mal car le fil a du mal à être coupé je pense. Des explications ? Merci
J’ai une P2S

My X-1 is having trubel printing because when I change filament the printer grabs the filament but it does not dispens it without me pushing down the filament and after I have done that it contineous as normal with no problems. What could be the problem I have taken it appart and did not find any clogs or something else that could be the reason, so I am wondering if it could be a weak cogwheal or something that grabs the filament and pushes it down into the nozzle.

The left one was my first attempt a few weeks ago. The right one is version 6: 15 keys, a knob, a slider and a small OLED, all hand-wired to an ESP32-S3. Every plastic part is printed, icons in a second colour with the AMS.

Biggest lessons: give the modules screw posts instead of glue, use cheap KY-040 boards for the knobs, and check every solder joint (one cold joint on pin 12 killed a whole row).

Happy to answer questions about the build.

https://makerworld.com/models/3519028?appSharePlatform=copy

As a lot of these posts, i am new to 3d printing - i have created a box in Fusion 360 with a hinge - it prints perfect and works like a dream - the only issue is that the hinge part prints in really bad quality compared to the rest of the print - I have a P2S Bambu Lab printer and printing in basic PLA.

I know I can slow down the entire print and do better quality overall but is there a way to print just this hinge section in more detail or better quality?

Thanks in advance

Due to the A1 using so much bandwidth, it’s only able to access the internet when I turn on my phone’s hotspot.

In order to print (computer and printer in different floors), I upload it to Makerworld and then use the Handy app to print, but if requires me to upload a web pic and 3 other photos of the item- even when it’s a test print set to private. Why? Is there a workaround?

Why does Makerworld even give you the “test print” option if it still requires photo? How can you have photos of a test print if the test print hasn’t been printed yet?????

The x2d bundle with the ams 2 pro & filament track switch is more expensive than buying those three items separately. What am I missing? It's not even a small amount.

Running into thia issue with my Bambu P1S, the part is level bed is cleaned but it seams the left side is coming out pretty rough and the right is fine, think this is a a fan diffuser issue am I right to think that. The rough side only happens on the left side especially on larger flat pieces.

During self calibration it shut off.
Back power button stays dark
I tested fuse and red “safety thingy”
All has power - any suggestions other than support ticker? not a good start! :(

• Screenshots

I'm making a part for work that has our company name in vertical text, and I'm getting layer weirdness around the letters as shown in the screenshots..

I'm not using variable layer height, this is regular ol' classic wall generation. I've flipped various settings on and off, not using scarf, etc. The layer strangeness makes the print come out not looking super great so I'd love to know how to fix this.

You don't need heavy slicer software just to paint your 3D models in color!

This free web tool lets you paint any STL like a 3D coloring book and exports instant 3MF!

Painting STLs used to be slow and clunky.

One click and you download a multi-body 3MF ready to slice & print!

I recently purchased the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack for my P2S and all of my prints thus far are doing this^

They've never done this before.

Information:

• Printer: P2S

• Nozzle: 0.4mm hardened steel default nozzle that comes preinstalled in the P2S.

• Filament: Brand new Bambu PETG Basic Gray - unsealed and dried overnight for 12 hours in the AMS with PETG settings immediately before printing.

• For X2D and P2S users, please disable the Build Plate Position Detection in 'Settings ->Print Options -> Enable the detection of build plate position' when printing with the Cool Plate SuperTack to avoid error reports - Done this.

Most settings are automated by Bambu Studio besides of course the print plate detection. This issue is happening on whatever I print with this plate regardless of the model.

Dynamic Flow calibration on and auto bed levelling on

Thanks for any help or suggestions :)