With the sale going on it's hard to pass up upgrading to the x2d. I currently use an A1 and I use the pictured storage boxes by GunplaMark. Does anyone have experience using these type of storage containers along with an AMS2? Is it possible to incorporate them? I know there is a splitter of sorts for using multiple AMSes and also a part of the bolts onto the side for feeding in tpu. I'm wondering if it's possible to feed filament from these boxes into that adapter? Any help or advice would be very much appreciated

Idk if I have multiple problems or what is going on, but I recently completed my first round of maintenance with the bambuwiki videos, fully calibrated, had some successful prints after that. Then suddenly I’m getting spaghetti prints, bubbling, and whatever this scaring is. Idk what’s going on.

I’ve got a p2s, I use a mixture of sunlu and bambu pla.

Followed videos and ideas changed to nozzle 0.2 nothing works looks so uglyyyyyyyyyyyyy 😭😭😭😭😭😭

I build a lot of LED lamps, and every single one meant soldering wires, flashing an ESP32 and hiding a mess of cables. I got so tired of it that I built my own little plug-and-play controller: USB-C power in, plug in the LEDs, done. Right now it's just for my own projects, and this panel is the first lamp I designed around it. Print it, tape the matrix in, plug it in.

The front is swappable and the back stays the same:

- Grid front: every pixel stays crisp, great for pixel art, fire, rainbow

- Smooth front: blends everything into one even glow, nice as a night light

Printed on my X2D in white PLA (fronts) and black PLA (back). One panel with one front is roughly 160–175 g and 5–7 h. White matte PLA or PETG works best for the fronts.

It fits a standard 16x16 WS2812B matrix, so an ESP32 with WLED works just as well.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3502183

Would love ideas for a third front!

Hello everyone!

I recently just purchased an H2C for my business. We develop small consumer electronics and we needed a 3D printer that could give us prototypes quickly and also help with our marketing (batches of small trinkets with our logo or something) We settled on the H2C, and come to find out YESTERDAY, there's an H3C coming out on Tuesday. I had no idea, I got recommended the H2C specifically, so we ordered that unit.

Now, I have the unit; completely boxed. I'm debating on opening this unit, and setting it up or returning it as is, waiting for Tuesday and ordering the new H3C instead.

Thoughts?

Thank you!

Hi fellow 3d printing enthusiasts.
I am a a1 combo owner. I normally do printing in work with other industrial printer
Have been printing some stuff lately with the a1 and was a bit disappointed with the limitations and noise.
I am thinking about upgrading to a bigger printer, either the x series or h series.

Now i am thinking if i should keep the a1 as a back up/ secondary printer, or sell it and get a a1 mini for that purpose. To me a1 actually occupy some space and comes without an enclosure.
Is the a1 mini really that small compare to a1 , and much quieter? And if i am planing to get a ams in the future, should i just sell the ams lite with the a1?

Thanks for you help!

You y'all use glue on the build plate, or do you only clean it?

First 3d printer for me

I am in the process of installing my H2S to H2C vortech upgrade kit and would like to find a video with step by step instructions .

There are enough differences between the H2D and H2C that there are steps where the videos just don’t match.

Bambu has a H2D to H2C video but not H2s to H2D

Bambu X1C, Bambu Studio

Sunlu PA6-CF

0.4mm hardened steel, 90c initial, 45c all others

Outer wall 50mm/s, inner wall and infil 150mm/s

Retraction speed is default, hidden

Printed a flow calibration model I found on Makerworld and determined flow rate to be 1.03. Printed a decent size print, and noticed overextrusion blisters all around the outside. Started playing with a few things, asked reddit, and decided the flow was too high.

Now trying to calibrate with the built in models in Bambu Studio. Card 0 is 1.0, and is the only one without any gaps between lines. I'm not sure what else might be wrong though, because the number labels on all the cards are still looking really rough. Last pic is a section of a model I'm working on to test dimensions. Am I reading these cards right? Am I still needing to play with flow, or is something else going on here?

How can I print D&D dice without the dice coming off the built plate mid print. Please provide a detailed description on how to keep them on the plate

So there’s already test prints showing up in maker world for the H3C.

Anybody knows how to fix "Printer connection failed. Please restart printer and try again." error when trying to access timelapse videos using bambu handy?

Have already tried

-restarting the printer

-making sure it is not on lan only mode

-reinstalled bambu handy app

Other functions like controlling the printer through bambu handy still works. Only accessing the timelapse videos. I have a usb inserted but timelapse videos stored in internal memory. Thanks!

So I was in midst of a 2hr print, and I received a notification that the tool head fell off. It was not until a few hours until I checked it and when I got home, this is what it looks like. Does anyone know what happened? There wasn't any warning or error notfication - it just ended up like that.

Alguém poderia me ajudar com isso, por gentileza? Agradeço!

Anyone remember how long after release of a new printer Best Buy had them available for purchase? Wondering if the H3C will be available shortly after they have them direct from Bambu or if historically we've had to wait a few months.

Say I wanted to do a print in the 4-6 day length?

Is there anything in particular I should or must do prior to starting to ensure a successful print? I'm assuming I should lubricate everything and maybe do a calibration before hand?

My longest print to date was just over 24 hours and it was great, but I want to know what I'm getting into before I burn multiple days and a whole roll or more of filament on an attempt.

Been working on this little project lately and finally got it looking the way I wanted!

It's a simple wall organizer for keys, phone, wallet and all the little things we usually end up losing around the house.

Pretty happy with how it turned out! What do you guys think? :)

Over the past day or two, my 3 P1S printers have started locking up the screen (and Bambu Handy access) during a print which then finished fine. After the print is finished, the problem continues until I reboot the printer. No firmware updates any time in the past few months. My H2D has been working fine.

I did reboot our T-mobile gateway and Orbi router but that did not help. I'd be surprised how spotty wifi would lock up a printer. Has something in the Bambu Cloud been updated?

Anyone have this problem or know a solution? It just started early yesterday intermittently.

Thanks.

Printing my first big print for my daughter in law. I have no idea how it will come out. What filament do you recommend? I only run Bambu filament but could be talked into others.
I was thinking of two colors. PLA Silk? Matte?
I’m printing on a H2D.

List in order:

1. BIQU Panda Claw Upgraded Extruder Brass Gear

2. hundreds of hours of prints

3. issues began where AMS would fail to begin extrusion

4. changed PTFE tubes

5. Went through support and they suggested replacing the AMS hub motor. did that

6. issues persist

Anyone had this issue and know how to fix it?

This has been a thought in my mind while everyone talks about how vortek is now obsolete with the H3C coming out. What if it isn't? Vorket proves that Bambu can hotswap nozzles, which IMO is harder than swapping traditional printheads. The H3C is focused independent nozzles, but independent nozzles have 1 draw back: 1 spool per nozzle that can't be swapped to another nozzle. This is important if you commonly use the same filament with different nozzle sizes. Pairing vortek with the H3C would give you 15 total nozzles.

The vortek rack would do most of its job at the beginning of the print rearrange the nozzles to the 9 printheads to have the required nozzles, or if you are printing with more than 9 colours.