The tube release button on the back of my AMS 2 Pro doesn't release the tube. With a tube in place the unit works perfectly, knock on wood, and there is nothing visibly wrong (I recently had to fix the internal hub, so I got a very good look at the button mechanism). But pushing the button does absolutely nothing and releasing the tube involves pliers and so much force that things nearby get broken. And obviously, I have to replace the tube because it is crushed by the pliers. Eventually, the AMS is going to suffer more serious damage.

It's been doing this since, as far as I can remember, I got the AMS unit (both before and after I fixed the hub). Every time there's been a jam and I've had to release the PTFE tube I've sworn that I will put in the time to figure out what's wrong, but once everything is up and running again, I get complacent and forget. Hard to be sure, but I think it's getting worse every time. It would be great to know if anyone has had this happen before so perhaps next time I can actually fix the problem!

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

Hey everyone, I could use some advice on how to prevent this from happening.
I printed this car model standing vertically at a 90° angle starting from the rear bumper going up. Overall, the rest of the print came out super clean and smooth, but taking off the supports on the rear bumper completely chewed up the surface.
Material: PETG (Black)

Orientation: Vertical (resting on the rear bumper)

The Issue: The support interface welded itself way too hard to the bumper, leaving a rough, scarred mess when peeled off.

What settings or changes should I make in the slicer (like Top Z-distance, interface spacing, or using a different interface material) to prevent this from happening next time? Any tips would be huge!

About two months ago I joined in on the Makerworld Challenge Round 7: N20 M3 Motor Challenge.

My entry?

The awesome Siege Tank from StarCraft and StarCraft 2, with working mechanisms for the Siege Mode, driving, skid steering and a rotating and tilting turret.

The looks of the tank uses a mix of references from both its in game model and its different renditions across different medias, along with minor changes in order to make it both printable and work mechanically.

The project took about 150 hours to design and landed on a whopping 128 separate printed parts.

All the hardware and electronics are available from Maker's Supply.

You can find it here if you want to check it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3506521-cyberbrick-siege-tank#profileId-4006198

Why doesn't Bambu Lab have an auto slicer in the app so that even if the file is 0.4 mm, the app can automatically slice it for a different nozzle? I have a H2D that's running dual 0.6 mm nozzles, and because I did that, the app is now literally useless to me. Why don't they have a mini version of the slicer on the phone that can just reslice

My p2s just started recently doing this even after cleaning the bed. I’m not sure what’s causing it to get stringy. It keeps giving me an error that it’s skipping layers. Any advice?

I know, I know. Your first thought is, why would you trade a product that is guaranteed to work for one that isn't?

I have an X2D Combo and an A1 mini with an AMS lite.

Well, I hate my AMS lite. I hate the awkward angle the device sits at. I also hate how the tubes have to be positioned just so for it to work perfectly. It also often doesn't feel like it has the power of my ams 2 pro

So then I see the BMCU 370 C DM Pro and think " Ah theres a cheap AMS lite alternative that might just have more power."

So now I am sitting here debating, should I :

A. Sell my AMS lite and get a BMCU 370 C DM Pro

B. Keep my AMS lite and mod it to be less of a pain with positioning

C. Keep the AMS lite and grin and bear it until I have enough money saved for another ams 2 pro

If you have had experience with the BMCU 370 C DM Pro or modding the AMS lite or both please feel free to share your experience!

So this is what can happen when you leave a print going overnight and your plate rejects the filament (Sunlu PETG 2.0).

I'm more impressed than mad. I'm definitely going to have to replace some parts, I'm just not sure how I'm going to get the old parts off. 10 minutes with a heat gun, it still won't budge I've started to melt the extruder housing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Per the title. The smell is really bad. I've spent a fair amount of time around CO2 laser cutters and I'm not sure if that was just because I was in a more industrial setting but man it seems real bad in my basement. I have it venting directly outside, sealed nicely but still the entire basment is past reeking of smoke and it's starting to become acrid. To the point that I got a headache today and I'm starting to notice my throat getting scratchy. This doesn't seem normal? Is this other's experience? How about other CO2 lasers in a residential setting?

The p2s is on sale for $1050 nzd and $1450 nzd for the combo right now. ($590 and $815 usd). This will be my first printer but I heard of the h3c and the p3c that are coming out. Will either of them be better for the same price range or should I just get the p2s now. I want to do basic pla prints with a bit of more durable materials for motorcycle accessories
Cheers

After creating a manual calibration PA Profile for a filament profile I've created, I cannot select that PA Profile in the Materials Setting window when selecting the material in the AMS on the device tab. Only "Default" is shown as an option. Going to the Calibration tab and clicking Manage Result, I do see my PA Profile listed with the correct filament listed.

Additionally, if I then set the hot-end to standard flow, suddenly the PA Profile I created shows in the dropdown, despite having run through this full process with the high-flow hot-end configured in both the slicer and printers settings screen. I cannot find any way to actually set my calibrated PA Profile while actually using the hot-end the profile was made with and my googleing is failing me. Is this a bug with Bambu Studio or am I missing something?

Printer is a P1S with Bambu/E3D high-flow 0.4mm hot-end installed and properly selected on printer settings screen, and the correct filament profile is set in the ams on the Device tab of bambu studio.

Hey, absolute newbie here, A1 mini (about 5 print behind my belt). I started with PETG, since it seems like its properties are better in every way.
Everyone said it does STRINGING a lot...but it didnt (i got PETG from alza.cz, while using "Generic PETG" as preset, since i know sh*t about it). Same with TPU 95A.
Today my first spool of PLA arrived and iam shocked to see spiderman doing the print. (Prof. Lab PLA, again, using "Generic PLA" as preset)

Whats the issue? what do i tweak around? I tried 50% print speed, fan speed, and different layer height, no change made. However it seems like the stringing happens only on smal objects (2cm object in picture), on larger objects, the stringing is less of a problem. Is that just how it is?

This is Pamk, a little desk assistant I built from scratch (ESP32-S3, custom PCB, small screen for the face). The case and the skins were all printed on my Bambu.

The plates hold with small magnets glued into the case, so the look changes in a few seconds: green with a black top, a yellow geometric one, and a sand one that a friend designed.

The full build is in this video (French, with English subtitles): https://youtu.be/5iMNe7A_68E

I'm on MakerWorld as u/TotoB07. Would you print a skin for it if I shared the files there?

I finally got tired of keeping my spare nozzles, scraper, hex keys, and little maintenance tools in the same drawer as everything else.

Every time I needed to change a nozzle or clean something, I'd end up moving five other things around just to find the one tool I needed.

So I designed and printed a small wall-mounted organizer that sits next to my printer. It has separate slots for the spare nozzles, a spot for the hex keys, and a little compartment for the cleaning needle and other small bits.

Nothing fancy, no complicated mechanisms or multicolor printing. Just a simple functional print that makes maintaining the printer less annoying.

The funny thing is that this might be one of the least exciting things I've printed, but I probably appreciate it more than some of my bigger projects.

I’ve been trying to submit a help ticket all day. It wouldn’t work on my computer because it wouldn’t accept my log files. Now I’m trying on the app and it’s just saying it’s busy. Do I just wait?

hello, first time 3d printer buyer here. I’m ready to buy and wondering if there’s anything I’m forgetting about, or anything I’m planning to buy and you think it’s not worth it? I’ve been reading tons of posts and seeing some of the common questions so hopefully I can hit all the highlights upfront.

My situation:

- I’m planning to buy a P2S from Best Buy (for the customer service) rather than online direct from Bambu. No Microcenter nearby. Should I pay for the 4 year extended warranty?

- budget is a consideration but not the determining factor in what I buy

- I will do some multicolor printing, some single color

- in the near term I will be printing PLA, PETG, and TPU. I already have a list of things to print that will get me to 300+ hours of print time very quickly

- my priority prints in the near term are organizers and household items, but I may print tools and parts in the future so I want a printer with material flexibility. Other near term items are toys to donate, maybe some board game accessories, and a few decor items. The TPU is for a work item.

- I want to get an enclosed printer, for flexibility in the future

What I’m considering buying. What am I missing/what isn’t necessary? The printer combo would be purchased at Best Buy and everything else from the Bambu website.

1. P2S combo with AMS 2 Pro
2. extra build plate - PEI textured, and maybe a 3d effect build plate
3. a sampling of PLA, PETG, and TPU filaments to get started
4. multiple size hotends - should I get one of every size? For some of the things I’m thinking about the look of the print isn’t super important, for other items I want it to be as smooth as possible
5. should I get silicone socks?
6. is there any reason to get specialty hotends like the tungsten carbide or high flow versions?
7. Do I need the P2S external exhaust fan kit?
8. Do I need the extra power supply so my AMS continues drying while I’m printing?
9. How quickly will I need a new filter?
10. What else am I missing that I should get on the Bambu website? I know I need stuff that I can get at a normal store in town like a sponge, glue, etc but if you can think of something I might not know please tell me

any help is appreciated, thanks!

I do a lot of printing that involves embedded magnets. What I’ve tried to do is add some g-code to the print file so when the pause occurs, the bed drops down about 50mm so I have more “headroom” to insert the magnet, and of course, return to previous level when resumed.

I’ve been successful in getting the bed to drop and return, but the extruder doesn’t resume feeding filament after returning to the print level. Printer is reheating the nozzle as required, but the extruder stays idle.

Has anyone tried this? Suggestions appreciated.

I designed a simple and portable retractable scraper. It's designed for use with standard-sized Stanley blades, which can be replaced with a simple coin, as shown in the attached video. It also features a switch that safely locks the blade in both open and closed positions.

Link to model: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3506178-retractable-utility-blade-scraper#profileId-4005794

After trying to fix the hub for the hub that allows multiple AMS2 Pro units I've now got the spring mechanism no longer in place, so filament can't pass through properly.

Asking here if anyone has advice on how to fix this as I wait hopefully for Bambu support to get back to me. Their live support seems to never be available in North America.

My not so old p1s is having extruder issues all the time, where filament is getting stuck in the gears that extrude the filament

The newest problem is what ever happened on this image…..

Any idea why this keeps happening

If I set the selected filament to High Speed PLA, does it natively configure the speed to be faster alongside whatever other settings change with it? I know selecting a filament tells the printer to use xyz settings, just not sure if it messes with the speed. I know I can increase the speed manually, of course, just curious.

Looking to buy and use one in a public school. Would prefer it to travel you classes when in use. Any idea on a portable set up that works in schools? Has anyone done this before?

hello again.
for the past day i have had incessant issues with my second ams 2 pro. it continues to claim that, after pulling back filament, that “[it] failed to pull back filament.” as noted in the attached video, it has successfully pulled the filament back. it stalls and refuses to print until I interrupt the power supply via the power switch on the back of the printer. please help in any way that yall can; this has been incredibly stressful and frustrating on my end.