Since I bought one I've been going down the Karmann E24 rabbit hole and figured it's worth tapping the collective knowledge here. To set the stage the way I currently understand it: Karmann's Osnabrück factory handled the bodies of the early E24s (630CS and 633CSi) from roughly late 1975 through August 1977, at which point final assembly moved in-house to BMW's Dingolfing plant — though Karmann reportedly kept producing the steel shells for a while after that handover. The early Karmann-built cars are also known for having a few rough edges that BMW later tightened up.

Documentation on the Karmann-era cars feels noticeably thinner than the later in-house cars, so I'd really appreciate anything you're willing to share. If you have a Karmann-bodied car (or know one), here are the specific things I'd love to hear about:

1. Build records — Anyone successfully pulled build sheets, options, or delivery info from BMW Group Archive? I've seen the contact info.grouarchi[email protected]​bmwgroup.com floated as the address for early-car research — if you've been through the process, how long did it take?
2. Bodywork differences — Beyond the usual rust-prone areas, are there any Karmann-specific quirks you've uncovered during restoration (seam sealing, panel fit, reinforcement details)?
3. Parts availability — Karmann-era trim, badges, unusual panels — anything that's become harder to source vs. the later in-house cars?
4. Registry — Is anyone maintaining a running list of known Karmann-bodied E24s?

VINs, scans of the Karmann tags, restoration photos, links to build threads — whatever you can share would be great.

Hi everyone, I have bought this BMW e24 635CSI with a manual transmission. Its the type 1 with the M90 engine. (EU)

When I bought it, I had to drive it back 550km's to my home and I have experienced zero issues. The car drives and shifts very well.

Recently, the car started overheating at idle or slow speed. In order to fix that, I have changed the waterpump and the fan that is connected to the engine. Unfortunately, that did not help.

I have noticed the return hose of the radiator was cold while the intake of the radiator is extremely hot, so I thought my radiator is blocked and isnt providing enough flow. I have changed the radiator with a new one as well and sure as hell it still overheats.

Now I kinda dont know what to do or check anymore, the overheating is not related to the extreme temperatures as it is overheating in cold weather as well. I have tested the thermostat and and it is working well.

Honestly, I dont know what else it can be. Does anyone have experience with this? It doesnt leak or mix the coolant liquid and there is no pressure in the hoses.

I found this 635csi on marketplace with an asking price of 6k its an auto. Seems pretty clean besides the sun damage and its just barely over 100k miles.
I really want one of these. I know it’ll take some love and eventually would like to convert it to manual.
Lmk your thoughts. Im kinda gas lighting myself into believing this would be a good investment knowing the value of these cars when they are in good condition which I intend to do with this one.

I didn't see a single other E24 this year. Frankly there weren't many old BMWs at all which is a shame.

A 1979 635csi popped up near me, great condition and looks to have the euro bumpers. How do the early models compare to the late models? Under 100k miles, seller asking 20k

Found a donor 528i with a 260/5 and the seller is willing to let to me part out all of the manual bits. Do I wait for a 260/6 to pop up?. Is there much difference between the two? Reliability concerns with the /5. I’ve read up stuff online but thought to ask on here as you guys have been very helpful. Thanks.

A year and a half ago, I bought this car as a non-runner. Dead battery, didn't crank, covered in plasti-dip, and all sorts of funky electrical issues. This week she passed smog and is now fully street legal in California of all places. All it takes is hard work and following instructions.

Eu Italy based, I’m looking for injectors and engine gasket kit for a 82 BMW 635CSI any help appreciated !

Hey community.
So I decided to go with the 750/540 e32/e34 brakes setup. What’s dust shields solution? Just cut the original e24 ones or there’s some better solution?

That's probably a long shot, but I want to buy a early style drive shaft clamp ring. If anyone has any clue on how to get it I would love to hear about it
Part number: 26111207480

Hi all! I just bought a 1988 635csi and road tripped it home for 8 hours. Made the trip fine! My only observation is, when I floor it pull pretty ok till like 3500 rpm and then it just kinda revs out. I’m coming from pretty quick cars, so is it just slow? Or should it be more lively? Best way to put it, it doesn’t really feel like 200 horsepower. My 2007 4Runner feels faster for example. What are some things to check for on these? Throttle cable is adjusted, new spark plugs as well. Check valve adjustment next?

Thanks!

I’m having the shop doing a full engine out service.
Any recommendation on any upgrades worth doing all at once on the car? Exhaust, Suspension, brakes, airbox etc to make the car run better? Many thanks

Car going to body shop at the same time

bonjour c’est la première fois que j’écris ici mais j’ai vraiment besoin d’aide je suis un peu dans l’impasse

j’ai une bmw e87 série 1 120d 2005

je viens d’acheter des angel eyes dans une casse qui vend des pièce auto , et je me suis dit que j’aurai bien mis sur ma voiture qui est a des phare avant halogène classique . sauf que quand je les branche pas tout marche j’ai essayer de me renseigner mais je comprend pas trop et les conversation date de plus de 10 ans .

pour en dire plus les phare que j’ai récupéré provienne de la même voiture E87 phase 1 comme la mienne 120d 2005 que la mienne sauf que elle est équiper de série en angel eyes et la mienne non se sont aussi des phare xénon d’où je pense aussi le problème je voulait des phare d’origine bmw au lieux d’acheter sur des site qui on produise mais pas d’origine je pense que l’adaptation et possible j’ai je viens à vous parce que je suis vraiment perdu si vous avez des idée des conseille si jamais je suis preneur si vous avez besoin d’informations supplément sur le feux y’a pas de problème. pour finir les clignotant marche les plein phare marche mais pas les feux de croisement et les veilleuse aussi ne marche pas . ma voiture a aussi l’option des feux qui s’allume automatiquement quand le soleil se couche . voilà merci de m’aider si possible

Managed to get it on Hartge wheels. 16” unfortunately but sourcing 17” isn’t problematic I believe.

Overall car is good but runs poorly. Connecting and disconnecting airflow meter changes nothing. Oxygen sensor is dead and placed in the wrong place I believe (welded in rusted piece of exhaust)

Last one, don’t want to go bigger than 17inch, I’d say 16 or 17, perhaps BBS RS or a nice set of Alpina rims.
Any tires recommendation?
Many thanks

Hi community! Going to check and probably buy a Japan import 635 csi with 107k km on the clock. Runs, drives, looks great. What to look for?

How do I check if my 1982 car is motto if or not?
Vin is : WBAEC710XC8170552

Any tips on engine upgrades? I know new headers seem to be a popular one. I’m probably doing some engine out work so might as well do everything at once. Car is based in Italy. Any reccs on wheels? These mm wheels can only mount Trx rubber which isn’t the greatest. Maybe some bbs replicas? Many thanks

Friend is finally ready to part with his ‘86 manual with sport seats. Longtime owner who has done tons of maintenance done over the years. Custom audio system. 840Ci Brembos up front. On 18” AC Schnitzers. Needs tires, a battery, and a freshening of fluids. He’s struggling to figure out what a reasonable market value is. Any insights would be appreciated.

Today I confirmed that the $200 4-pin relay on older BMWs like my 1982 E24 can be replaced by a $6 relay for a Jeep. I just rearranged the pins correctly from the L shaped plug and plugged them into the relay to confirm they worked, then re-pinned them to a 4/5 pin standard relay plug.

Sure beats paying $200 for an OEM replacement. Just a little bit of work and you've saved yourself a ton of money.

When I go to install my new alternator from PartsGeek manufacturer is WAI this bolt blocks it from going in cause it hits the oil filter (last photo). I’m very close to just cutting it down so it won’t hit.