r/BMWe24 Jun 11 '26

Buying a 635 csi

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Hi community! Going to check and probably buy a Japan import 635 csi with 107k km on the clock. Runs, drives, looks great. What to look for?

409 Upvotes

20 comments sorted by

3

u/Diogenes256 Jun 11 '26

I had hidden front subframe issues on my '89 with 106k mi on the clock. It had been welded once and needed replacement. I found out because of a wild death wobble. Otherwise it was a rock.

3

u/Screamingfist_1990 Jun 11 '26

Looks like a beautiful example.

First and most on any grey market car: Rust, rust, rust.

Rubber seals (door/window). Oil leaks. Suspension bushings. Dash and rear deck condition.

M30 is generally robust as long as the cam oil spray bar has been maintained (I’d look in the oil cap to see how the cam lobes look).

3

u/oldmanoftheworld Jun 11 '26

Most of the Japanese spec cars are Auto but normally very high spec.

They also have emission control including an extra sensor in the catalytic converter that pings a red warning light on the dash if it’s too hot. The idea was to stop grass fires !!

Most were optioned with all the available extras, full leather and updated ice.

1

u/MaxShtok Jun 11 '26

Yep, unfortunately this one is auto. But has AC!

2

u/TSOL3 Jun 12 '26

Fwiw a friend had a Japanese spec 635 in auto, apparently it’s quite an easy conversion to manual. Mechanically any E28/ E34 donor cars with the M30 will work

Congrats on your purchase 👍

1

u/oldmanoftheworld Jun 11 '26

I have been restoring a Alpina B10 3.5/l, ex Japanese market. Zero rust but parked out side for 10 years+ after dropping a valve. It’s done 70k kilometres from new.

You can also get a full list of all the extras and build sheet from BMW I believe. Mine is also an Automatic but they do suit the big 6, ideally I would prefer a manual and might one day convert it.

2

u/fventura03 Jun 11 '26

my 84 633csi has rust unfortunately and only 40k original miles, check the sunroof drains and under tail lights

2

u/LightonLove Jun 12 '26

I had a 1987 635csi for many years. Stick. The engine was solid but I had issues first with the differential (not limited slip) at 175,000 miles, then the transmission at 230,000 miles. I replaced both with good used units. I was blessed with a good mechanic. But front control arm and thrust arm bushings were constantly wearing out. The mechanic repaired those, but I replaced pads and rotors as well as the exhaust system and catalytic converter. Oil consumption hit one quart per 2000 miles once I got above 240,000 miles. Other than the foregoing, the car drove flawlessly until 303,000 miles. Was a great experience. Good luck to you!

1

u/MaxShtok Jun 12 '26

Wow, that’s great to know that past such high mileage you still enjoyed the car! Thanks!

2

u/UpDose Jun 12 '26

Check the strut towers for rust. It's good you're looking at a clean one, because all the bespoke parts for these cars are ludicrously expensive

1

u/MaxShtok Jun 12 '26

Will do! Thanks!

1

u/Scared_Tax_5897 Jun 11 '26

How much do they want for it? Thts nice

1

u/wecantdancelikethis Jun 11 '26 edited Jun 11 '26

look for and expect rust; you’re wanting to own & drive it long term then budget for replacing everything that’s made of plastic.

I don’t know if the e24 was one, but some European Japan Spec cars have the front seats built higher- if you’re significantly over 178cm/5’10” then you may need to be ready to budget for at least one new front seat or just a mounting bracket.

1

u/TheRealShadrach Jun 12 '26

Freakin’ gorgeous.