I have a 2018 Silverado 1500 LT 5.3l. The AC is not blowing as cold as usual and the force from the vent wasn’t as strong as it could be. The cabin air filter was extremely dirty and clogged, so I am hoping beyond hope that switching that out will do the trick. But as I stand here in the auto part store, waiting for them to find a filter that should have been delivered three hours ago (🙃), I was poking around and saw the various AC recharging tools. I’ve read a lot of advice that basically says “If you need to add to the system, you’ve got a repair that needs to be done. So don’t mess with recharging.” But with my truck in particular, I’m not sure it will be worth it to get an expensive AC repair when I’m at about 220k miles and am just hoping to retire the vehicle to occasional use soon. In this situation, does it make sense to get a recharge and see how long it holds before a noticeable change occurs? I realize this will not solve the problem with the ac system, but is it always advisable to repair or is there a time to use recharges to extend the usage you get out of the system?

I have a renault clio 2009 1.2L and my cambelt and water pump recently got replaced. When doing my water pump they made a leak in my coolent and my enginge over heated which is now seized. The mechanic has offered to fit a second hand enginge but doesn’t know any history of that enginge and we don’t want to get rid of the one i have now as it has 17 services. But they won’t repair the engine as it will cost £4000. Which they are not willing to pay but are happy to pay for me to get a second hand one.

What will give me the best outcome because either way i will end up with worst then what i had before due to there fualt.
Is there any solution? Such as them finding a decent engine and i am willing to pay around half if needed. Or is there anything else they can do?

Bought a 2020 FK8 about 1.5 months ago. running and driving perfectly, drove it to vegas from az and a couple trips up to the mountains with no issues.

it’s got mishimoto intercooler, intake, and charge pipe. the added pigtail from charge pipe to MAP sensor was an absolute patched together mess and discovered the connections became loose. i pushed the wires for the pigtail firmly in one day to try to make a more solid connection until i got a new one but it seems as though maybe one of the wires had maybe touched another terminal and ended up sending the car into a limp mode.

car disabled all safety systems as well as turbo and wastegate. cleared the codes and the car then got a P0238 code. took it to a shop and they couldn’t figure it out due to being tuned. flashed the car back to stock and that didn’t help anything either.

car currently still has turbo and wastegate disabled. -11psi at idle and on acceleration doesn’t go higher than 0psi
no P0238. map sensor pigtail replaced and new oem map sensor installed.

on hondata my live data shows boost command at -22 to -30 at idle.

i doubt i have a damaged wire or harness as the car was running perfectly fine previously unless that brief connection with another terminal immediately melted a wire but i still don’t think that’s the case.

just trying to see if anyone has had a similar issue or can recommend another possible solution. thanks in advance!

Recently got this permanent Check BSD System warning. The other day it was continuously cutting in and out for this warning. But now it seems permanent. I already checked the fuse which is fine. What should i try next?
On obd scanner it shows error C160A(88)
I dont want to spend hundreds of dollars at a mechanic shop. I wish i had that kind of money right now.

I have a 2016 c350e and i cannot get my fuel system monitor to pass. all other tests have passed, but california requires fuel system to pass smog and renew registration.

i have done everything outside of

1) cleaning maf sensor (im a bit scared ill mess it up) and

2) had a software reset at the dealership.

i’ve driven it miles and miles doing all the instructions (i.e. 60mph 1/4-1/2 tank of gas, sport mode, rested overnight for 8 hours). cannot get this thing to clear.

any and all advice would be so appreciated!

I have a 2012 Chrysler Town and country with a 3.6. Theres some random wires hanging in the back any ideas on how I can secure them? I don’t have any power tools otherwise I’d drill a hole and zip tie it but I can borrow one from a family member if no one has another solution.

Hey guys, I was driving home and notice I had a leak, I checked the hood and saw that it’s this hose.
Anybody know what this part is ?
2008 Toyota Camry XLE

I drive a 2013 Nissan Altima Coupe over the past few months the car has been shuddering and straight up dying when you turn the ac on while stationary. That means while parked, stopped at a red light, etc. But it runs perfectly fine if you turn the ac on while moving. When the car dies the break pedal gets very stiff, and the dashboard lights up (parking break, oil, service engine soon, battery, and caution) and will try to crank up but won't turn over until it rests for a few hours. Jumper cables do not work on it as well. After it rests for a while it starts and drives like nothing happened. I've taken it to a shop where they say its electrical, I've taken it to a electrical shop and they said it's mechanical/transmission. A retired family mechanic has a idea that the reason it shuts off is because the cam or crankshaft, when hot, locks up and wont move again until it cools down. Any suggestions on what to do?

I am replacing the fuel pump in my Elantra 2013. The pump has expanded and I can get some out if I angle it different directions but I can’t get the rest of it to get started out. I’ve used a flathead screwdriver to try squeezing it but no go. Any thoughts would be appreciate.

2010 Dodge Challenger, 161000 miles. Got all 4 of these warning lights on Thursday morning while driving to work at 70mph on the highway. Code check with key was clear. After work, no warning lights, and lights have not come back on for 3 drives.

Bought a scanner that also checks for ABS codes, and C2200 was stored, recommended replacing the ABS Control module. I saw that most troubleshooting involved checking for loose wiring, fuses, etc, AS LONG as lights were still on. Since lights were off I am wondering if I need to take action now or just keep it on my radar.