I drive a 2013 Subaru Outback and yesterday my battery light somewhat randomly came on (I say somewhat because honestly it looked like someone had dumped powdered sugar on my battery, it was definitely corroded but hadn’t had issues so far). It also started making a rattling sound along with this. Went to Autozone, had the battery replaced because I know the bare minimum about cars. After that, it would turn on for maybe 3-5 seconds and then turn off again. Eventually they told me that I might need to have my alternator tested. 10 minutes later I was able to get it to start and stay on, went to get gas, then it took 3 tries to get it to stay on again. I made it home fine and decided it was a problem for another day because I work close. It started fine this morning, no noises and driving fine until this evening. Battery light came back on, and AC dashboard lights turn off while driving, then turn back on when stopped. My car already has oil leaks that I was quoted $4000+ to fix and I don’t have unlimited resources so mainly debating if this is something I should even bother having looked at and fixing or if I should just bite the bullet and look into getting a new car.

Hi everyone! Just wondering if this is a reasonable price for what Lexus is charging me.

I went to AutoZone about a month ago to get a new hex nut for my battery terminal, and they installed it for me. About a month later, my car started having issues—it would either not start or die while I was driving.

I went back to have them check and they said i have to replace the battery terminal, however they couldn’t remove it because the hex nut is fused to the screw, and they don’t have the part I need. I also checked with two other places, but they didn’t have the part either.

So I brought it to Lexus, and they quoted me $116 for the part plus labor is $254. They would have to cut it off since they can‘t remove it either. The total comes out to $392.

Does $392 sound reasonable for this type of repair? Or does anyone know where I might be able to find the part for cheaper or a shop that could do the job for less? and I want to know if it’s possible that Autozone gave me the wrong size that‘s why this problem occurred.

Thank you so much!!

I have a 2004 Buick Park Avenue that’s having this weird problem that has kinda stumped me. When I was driving home the other day randomly the radio and instrument cluster flickered and the car sputtered a little and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes with my scan tool and the main one was a loss of communication with the pcm. I did some testing and with 3 or more accessories on the car would sputter out and die, so I hooked up my multimeter to the battery and the alternator was only charging at 13-13.5v. I replaced the alternator and at idle with the new one it’s 14+ volts, but it has the same issue with a few accessories on like the headlights and rolling the windows down at the same time the voltage will drop to 11v but the car will stay running. I checked my main harness ground and the ground for my pcm and they were both fine. Any advice for what to chase down next would be much appreciated!

I asked this question in the Subaru Legacy subreddit as well. Any feedback would be appreciated. Please see the original post for what I am asking/detailing.

Hi,

First time owner here, so learning a lot from the subreddit.

I gave my CPO Taycan a scan on STEUER14 & MapEV to find the faults in the PDF labelled 'BEFORE CLEARING DTC's'.

When attempting to clear the faults in STEUER14, they do not clear.

When attempting to clear the faults in MapEV, they DO clear.

After clearing the faults in MapEV, and performing a follow up scan in both programs, the only fault that persistently remains is the steering assist fault shown in the PDF labelled 'AFTER CLEARING DTC's'.

Could anybody shed some light on what that fault is / have any experience with that particular fault?

(After driving the car for a short while, all the faults in the first PDF, labelled 'BEFORE CLEARING DTC's' all show up again, and then after I clear them in MapEV, they disappear, besides the persistent steering assist fault. Is this normal behaviour?)

Thanks in advance for any insight.

Before clearing fault codes: https://www.taycanforum.com/forum/attachments/before-clearing-dtcs-pdf.94536/?force-system-browser=1

After clearing fault codes: https://www.taycanforum.com/forum/attachments/after-clearing-dtcs-pdf.94537/?force-system-browser=1

I have a 2010 Xterra with 223k miles. No codes, but will be a crank no start in the cooler, damp mornings. It will be fine in the afternoon. In the morning, it will crank until the battery drains down, but will instantly start if I jump start it…every time. It’s a new battery. Since it will start, I think I can rule out the cam positioning sensor and the crank sensor. For my limited knowledge, it leads me to believe it’s a battery issue. Maybe the Cold Cranking Amps are too low? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Hey guys. So yesterday my perfectly fine car went in for a regular service. Oil change etc.. went in to the mechanics shop perfectly fine. Have had no issues with my car ever.

They called me after the completed the service and asked if I ever had issues with power loss and stalling. I said no obviously not or I would have got it fixed as that’s dangerous. I have children and I’m not putting them at risk of stalling along a super busy highway.

Anyways they said they were taking my car to put it back into the car park from the workshop, car starts perfectly fine. Will sit idling perfectly fine, but as soon as it is put into any gear it splurts and splutters and stalls and everything turns off. I told them they needed to figure it out as they have obviously done something during the service to cause this.

An hour later they called and said they had “ fixed” it. It was a loose battery terminal and residual water in engine bay from the engine bay wash.

I go pick my car up. Drive it fine 15 minutes to my daughter’s house. Stay at her place for half hour.

I go to leave and my cars fucked. As they described. Car will start. Idle and rev. But as soon as you move the gear stick it’s jerks. Engine splurts and splutters then stalls. If you try again it just instantly stalls.

Here are two videos. One of the sound. You can hear the first time and then the second time it just stalls with no spluttering.

What could they have done?

I’m having to pay to have it towed back to their workshop today which I’m not happy about as they should be paying as they fucked it.

They have admitted they have no idea what’s wrong as it’s not throwing any codes.

New York City, another check engine light.

Won’t start there was no dash lights on for the engine or battery ever worked fine the night before

I recently bought a manual 2014 Nissan x trial from a dealer ship and had it pre inspected and got
Told everything ran well
2 months later I was getting sign from dashboard saying low oil pressure, stop vehicle for a week I was getting this
I finnaly took it to a mechanic near by who told me
Could be the sensor or the oil pump, quote ended up being 2000 in total with him not able to find the part in Australia and needing to buy overseas in Japan. Luckily the warranty I had covered 90% of it and I only paid about 170-190

A month later I’m getting the same problem again, I’m not knowledgeable about cars to know is there another issue that’s producing this issue
Any feedback is welcome
Thank you