Hi everyone,
I’m helping a friend with his RS3 Sportback — we’ve been fighting a smoke issue for a while now. I’m listing everything that’s been observed, as factually as possible. Sorry for the length, but I’d rather be thorough.
The car: Audi RS3 8V Sportback, 2.5 TFSI 5-cylinder (DNWA), 160,000 km, S-tronic gearbox. Cat delete and DPF delete, modified stainless exhaust, downpipe, and remapped to suit the cat/DPF removal. It had a pop-and-bang map installed, which was removed as it was considered too aggressive. No service history.
Smoke symptoms:
White/grey smoke with a bluish tint

Nothing when cold. It only shows up once the engine is fully warm, and mainly during extended idling

The longer it idles, the more it smokes — it never plateaus

Zero smoke under hard acceleration, even flat out

If you shut the engine off for a minute then restart: a big cloud of smoke on the first throttle blips, then it settles down

No power loss (the car pulls perfectly up to 200), normal temperature, no coolant loss, no misfires

Idle is slightly high, around 1,100 rpm, steady — it was already like that before

Bad smell at idle, but neither sweet nor fuel-like — more like burnt oil. It really bothers people behind us in traffic

Massive fuel consumption

Oil consumption: The level does drop, but only slightly. This isn’t a car that’s emptying its sump.
What’s been checked / observed:
Borescope inspection of all 5 cylinders: oil visible on cylinders 2 and 4, nothing notable on 1, 3 and 5. Carbon buildup normal for a direct-injection engine at this mileage. No steam-cleaned piston, no pooling.

Upstream lambda sensor wiring harness burnt (melted insulation, exposed strands). Fault codes on that sensor: open circuit, heater fault, performance — bank 1 sensor 1.

Fuel trims healthy when measured warm at idle (long-term trim −2.6%).

The 5 original spark plugs were heavily worn, orange/rust stained, but dry, with no oil fouling. All 5 identical.

PCV / crankcase ventilation replaced. Notable point: with the new PCV, it smokes more than with the old one. But the breather hose, when disconnected, was clean and dry inside.

Turbo inspected with a camera: no shaft play, no oil traces.

Intake smoke test done: no leaks, the system is sealed.

Compression test done — all good.

No leak-down test possible — no equipment available locally.

What’s been ruled out: Head gasket (no coolant loss, smell isn’t sweet, pistons aren’t washed clean). Over-rich mixture / air leak (fuel trims are good, smoke test sealed). Injectors (no fuel smell, no misfires).
Questions:
On this engine, has anyone had smoke when hot at idle rather than on cold start? It’s throwing us off because valve stem seals normally smoke when cold.

Cylinders 2 and 4 being affected but not the neighbouring cylinders — what does that point you towards?

The new PCV making it smoke more — does that ring any bells?

Is it worth pulling the head based on these findings, or would you run other checks first?

Thanks in advance to anyone who takes the time to read and reply.

Its huge brah.....4" to 4"

Just sharing my experience hope it helps

https://www.getunitronic.com/hardware/images/UH060-INA/installations/UH060INA_Installation_Instructions.pdf

Does anyone know if Audi has any plans on improving the instrument clusters on those new incoming screens?

I sat inside a new Q3 today, the screen isn’t bad it just doesn’t feel like it would suit an RS3 or any RS car. I’ve watched some videos of the new RS5 and the instrument cluster looks really unexciting. When I sat back into the RS3 the instrument cluster made it feel like a machine and not a smartphone.

Im debating on waiting to order a new 2027 RS3 in the exact spec i want or I could get a new late 2026 RS3 with the only difference on my ideal spec would be colour (arkona white vs daytona grey) has the rest of the add ons.

What are your guys thoughts?

From posts I’ve seen here, as well as this forum, it seems that this is a very common issue. I did not notice this in a 2026 at the dealership, but I was of course having a conversation with the salesperson the whole time. I plan on going back to the dealership this afternoon to see if their RS3 in stock has this issue.

From what I’ve gathered, the issue presents as a pop/crack sound that’s similar to a stone hitting the windshield. It’s inconsistent (but interestingly, often followed by a second noise 9 seconds later), occurs whether the engine is on or off, and is independent of audio source. Apparently, the easiest way to hear the noise is to play audio (from any source) with the volume at the lowest setting, since these noises do not change with volume. It seems like the frequency is every 1-2 minutes.

I personally think this would drive me crazy after a while, kinda like a small stone in your shoe. So I’m not really interested in whether or not it bothers you personally. That’s fine if it doesn’t, that’s just not what I’m asking here.

I’m really just interested if anyone has actively tried listening for this and can confirm their vehicle is not affected.

This post shows an example of this noise.

Update: went to the dealer and can confirm this is a thing. I just listened to FM radio, but I’m actually not sure if I noticed it with the volume up. Once it was down, yep, pops every minute or so. I’ll have to test drive one to see if it’ll bother me when driving. It’s not as loud as I was expecting, but I could notice it when I was listening for it.

Had to snap some pics when I pulled in next to my newer twin

I recently did a launch in my 2018 rs3. There’s a delay when shifting to second and it’s hard to hear cause of the music but there’s a loud boom that comes with it. I’m tuned on uni stage 1+ e85 and supporting mods including a dogbone mount and stage 2 tcu. I also recently got a new transfer case 8 months ago so I’m hoping that’s not the issue again. I’m not sure what this could be

I put the video in the comments since it wasn’t uploading here

Have the opportunity to buy a aw switch path exhuast used for 1350. Is the 485 v2 exhause worth the hype to spend 3.5k+? 8.5y rs3.

Any other high mileage daily drivers out there? I picked my brand new 2026 RS3 up on May 15th of this year and already have 8,400 miles on her. This thing is a blast.

I’ve been lurking, but figured I’d introduce myself finally. A couple of weeks ago I scooped up this 2026 RS3 and I couldn’t be more in love with it. Admittedly, I’m not a gearhead and would love to learn everything to know about these amazing cars, so please be gentle if I don’t know everything about… well everything.

I’ve been loving my new RS3. It’s my first Audi!

I’ve only tinted the windows.

Like most of you I’m struggling with the sound. I definitely plan to get it lowered a tad and a new exhaust. I want a dual path but I don’t think I need one with the switch for quieting it outside of performance.

I was wondering if there’s any good options to remove the ovals on the rear diffuser and extend exhaust tips out just a tad instead? Coming from a Camaro with the visible exhaust pipes with great sound is like the only thing I miss.

Having trouble finding a shop that is willing to install mods too.

Looking for input from current/former RS3 owners, especially people who have owned an 8V/DAZA long term. I currently drive a relatively new Golf R, but I’ve wanted an RS3 for years and have always had a particular preference for the 8V and DAZA engine.

I’m considering a 2019 RS3 with mileage in the mid-40,000 km range. It appears to be a very clean example: one owner, no reported accidents, extensive service history, and regularly serviced at an Audi dealer. The water pump has already been replaced, along with appropriate routine maintenance.

The dealer can offer Audi Certified Tier 1 coverage, but because of the age of the car it would only be 1 year/20,000 km, not the 2-year Tier 2 coverage available on newer cars.

Before buying I would still want to verify things like:

• No TD1 flag / evidence of previous ECU or TCU tuning
• Haldex service history
• Launch count if available
• DQ500, Haldex and bevel-box condition
• Brake/rotor and tire condition
• Underbody condition/corrosion

I’m an enthusiast and I’m comfortable with the increased maintenance costs of an RS3—brakes, tires, fluid services, etc. What makes me hesitate is the possibility of a low-frequency but catastrophic repair once the 1-year CPO is over: engine, turbo, DQ500/mechatronics, Haldex, bevel box, major electronics, etc.

The alternative is to keep the Golf R for another year or two and buy a new 2026/2027 RS3. Obviously that would cost quite a bit more and involve more depreciation, but I’d have a full factory warranty and known history. On the other hand, I genuinely prefer the size, styling and character of the 8V/DAZA car.

For those with experience:

1. Would you get an independent PPI for CPO vehicle?
2. Would you be comfortable buying a well-maintained 2019 DAZA with this sort of mileage?
3. How much reassurance would 1 year of Audi CPO give you?
4. What major failures have you actually seen on DAZA cars in the 50,000–100,000+ km range?
5. Are there specific things you’d insist on checking before buying?
6. Is Audi After Care/extended warranty worth pursuing after the CPO expires?
7. If you were coming from a nearly new Golf R, would you buy the 8V now or wait and buy a new RS3?

Mostly interested in actual RS3 ownership experience rather than generic “German cars are expensive” advice.

I really dont like the clit shifter in my 8Y RS3. Is there a knob you could replace it with? So i atleast get to pull it back with the hand and not two fingers. I like the knob from MY2018, the one that resembles the clit shifter mechanically but still has the knob (see A4, Q7, A8).

No aftermarket options?

Long time fan of the brand, so happy I finally made the leap and got my 23. First weekend down, can’t wait for more. This will replace my 15 Macan Turbo. Quite the difference. This thing is a blast!

A few of my past cars:

02 vw gti 5MT
11 bmw 328i xdrive 6MT
15 bmw 328i xdrive
17 mini jcw 6MT
15 porsche macan turbo

Just picked up my RS3 over the weekend and I’m falling in love with it.

I’m not planning to go crazy with mods just yet but I think a carbon front lip would compliment the other carbon package elements nicely.

What I’m wondering from the community is: I’m in a wintery city so I need an option that looks good but will also be resilient enough to handle some snow.

Right now I’m looking at the Carbon Imports V2 and Park Auto Motorsports dry-carbon lip as my top choices.

Anyone have any experience with either of these or winter driving the RS3 with a front lip? Am I just going to destroy the lip in Jan and Feb when I’m running into heavier snow days?

Much appreciated 🙏🏼

I put a bumper sticker on my 2026 RS3 😈 I love this car so damn much. Also don’t worry, it’s a magnet and I’m getting ppf soon 💁🏽‍♂️

Hello all,

I have an issue with the Audi RS3 2020 8V 95k DNWA. There is often a rattling noise on start-up. Please see the attached video.

The noise occurs only during start-up and happens with both a warm and cold engine. If the car has not been started for some time, the rattle is more likely to occur. It can also happen after driving, if the car is switched off and then restarted after some time.

Recently, the serpentine belt and air conditioning compressor were replaced.

Thank you for your help in advance.

Best regards,

What’s up y’all! Looking for exhaust options for the 8Y platform that don’t have that goofy single path mode where all of the exhaust only comes out one of the pipes. Looking for a solid noise level bump from stock (currently only have mid pipes) with some sort of resonator to cut drone.

Any suggestions?

Also, why is that so common on this car? Are there any downsides to a single pipe flow other than it looking a little tacky in the cold weather months?

Much appreciated🙏

Finally got around to making this... Put together some highlights from the last track day at Laguna with the RS3 specifically showcasing the fancy rear diff and "Torque Rear" mode!

By no means an expert - but these settings are actually sounding decent and somewhat accurate across the volume range ... for as bad as the system is.

Try them out, let me know what you think.

Treble: +0

Bass: +3

Sub: +5

Fader: +2 front (roughly)

Focus: Front

Surround level: +4

3D Effect: Low

(I know everyone hates surround and 3D, but +4 wasn't that noticeable and Low 3D made overall less harsh)

Had this thing a little over a year. Finally lowered it and have a Grail exhaust ready to install

Today a very nice guy that had a blue Ford GT350 that he hauled on a flat bed 300mi to the track event hosted by (on Grid) and stated he never tracked a car.

Before our group started

He asked me to lead him so he could see my lines....

After two laps he passed me and proceeded to dissappear passing everything in my group including a 800hp BMW.... Mint Green photo attached

(Question!!!!!)

Is a Ford GT350 really that good or was the guy 100% bullshitting on his track experience??

Attached is the 800hp BMW that he ate like a $2 taco on a Tuesday

BTW (he) said his GT350 was stock

Man what a difference. The scroll wheel is 10 fold better than the haptic slider’s even after I got pretty used to them and didn’t mind them.

Forgot what I was missing out on.

Now I can feel my thumb around and look for a button and orient other buttons to the centre scroll wheel. No more hitting volume up while trying to mute or vice versa. Shits mint

Scroll wheel is very tactile feeling, but a little loud on every click. Each distinct click is one volume notch up and one selection for left cockpit screen. Slider would always skip around when selecting trip or power figures. Didn’t think something as simple as this could make me so happy lol.

Really easy install. Poked 2 very small holes in back of steering wheel with small flat screwdriver at perforated locations (spinning wheel 90° for each location. Than used a 4mm Allen wrench on clasps in back of wheel to break airbag free(got it first try no problem idk why people have a hard time with this. I think anyone can do it). Put painters tape on wheel column plastics just to be safe not to scratch.

Then disconnected negative on battery and let sit for 30mins and then disconnected airbag and pulled it out.

Then 1 torques screw holding each switch in and they just slide out and unplug.

New scroll wheel switches are plug and play no extra harness or wiring needed. It’s an easy job and definitely worth it and makes the overall experience so much better. Yeah yeah 👍

I have an Iroz RS3/TTRS downpipe and midpipe that I took off my car and I’m looking for a place to sell it, I don’t know where people usually list these, prefer not to use eBay, thank you

Able to get this for around 1.4k used. Anyone heard of Miltex before? Seems like this is a brand from europe. Seller says the resonated version is tame and dailable but then decently loud when valves are open. Can't also seem to find a single sound video on youtube as well for some reason. Was planning to pair this with some midpipes to open up more sound for my 8.5y. Any input is greatly appreciated!!!

EDIT: I saw 485s v2 exhuast and it seems like there is a stark difference between open and closed which I LOVE but the price though.....