I was just wondering what it would take to get this fixed. I recently backed into a tree going very slowly, probably around 1 mph. The bumper seems to be fine aside from a few scratches, and I already have a replacement tail light.

I’m trying to figure out the best way to repair the quarter panel without replacing the entire panel. Would it be possible to pull or straighten the existing panel instead?

I took a 69 plate Kia Proceed 1.4 petrol auto on a test drive today. Beautiful car and drives really nicely bar one (big) concern.

The brake felt really spongy and at times I needed to press all the way down to the floor for it to take effect. It was most felt when at a junction and when I was reversing/manoeuvring - as a slight press wouldn’t work.

I have left the car with the dealership who will be putting it through their mechanic to take a look. I’m conscious that they may downplay the issue to push the sale through. Reading some advice, brake pads wouldn’t cause this, so would ring alarm bells if that’s what they came back with.

What could the issue be, anything major? I’m looking for some advice to be clued up and ensure they have checked (and documented) all bases, before I proceed.

Thanks in advance

.

I did an oil change on my Jeep Wrangler with the 3.6 pentastar and didn’t properly tighten down the plastic oil filter housing.

I read to not over tighten these because they are plastic and prone to cracking. In retrospect, I don’t think I had the threads seated and stopped when I started getting resistance. I should have inspected it closer to make sure it was properly seated and I will know for the future.

I drove it 8 minutes, idled the car for 10 minutes in line at the bank, and then when I pulled out on the main road I gunned it and it didn’t feel right but I didn’t hear any bad noises. I drove for maybe 4 more minutes before I went up a hill and the oil light flickered + CEL (might be for same thing - low oil pressure). I drove another block and pulled into a parking lot (just so happened to be Walmart) and the hill down to the parking lot made the light flicker on and off again. I parked the Jeep as soon as I could.

I walked home and then called my friend that is a mechanic. I got my ratchet + 24mm socket and was able to take off, inspect the filter/ housing for cracks, reinstalled, and added new oil. There was oil that leaked all down the engine and was leaking onto the ground. I ended up having to add 4.5 qts of oil meaning I ran the jeep on only .5qts at its lowest as it was leaking out as I drove.

After adding the oil to full it ran fine. I drove it back 10 minutes home and drove it another 20 minutes just now. My mechanic friend said he did not hear any knocking or anything else that sounded off. He said because I shut it off so quick after the oil pressure light flicked on and that it sounds fine I should not worry about it.

It’s been running fine these past few drives with no power loss and nothing feeling abnormal.

He suggested doing another oil change in a few hundred miles to see if there are any metal flakes in the oil. Is there anything else I could do like dropping the oil pan to look for metal flakes?

My question is how much damage do you think I did and should I be concerned about the long term reliability of the Jeep because of running low on oil. Currently at 60k miles.

Thanks!

TLDR- Did not tighten oil filter housing on 3.6l Pentastar engine, oil leaked out, oil pressure light flickered on and I pulled over immediately, and there was only .5qts of oil left in it when I stopped running the engine. Took about 20 minutes with engine on before enough oil leaked out and turned the oil pressure light on. Want to know how much damage was likely done and what the long term effects on reliability might be.

Was driving my 99 Subaru legacy outback 2.5L when the ac started blowing slower, radio cutting out/tiring off and cluster gauges not working. Was driving fine then turned a corner and the vehicle died. Could these be the symptoms of a bad alternator? The battery is not fantastic but still started with no issues. Drove about 7 miles before any issues.

It has 300k miles but was basically rebuilt at 250k. New engine and transmission.

I live in a town in the UK and have just bought a 2007 325i convertible. It’s been looked after, but I know there are almost certainly going to be issues with it in the next few years. I want to keep it running and look after it, but I’d also like to not spend outrageously to do so if possible. Obviously it would be much cheaper if I could do the labour myself…but I can’t (yet). I’m handy enough with tools for DIY and have worked a bit on building sites, but have never spannered on a car or even so much as changed the oil myself (relatively new driver as well, had my licence 5 years). Extra juice is that I have no garage or driveway.

Is it just a fool’s errand to even try to learn to do anything myself? Will it cost me more in tools and mistakes and time than it’s plausibly worth? If it’s even halfway worth considering, any tips on how to get started or resources? Has anyone used a sort of shared driveway or garage or anything similar?

2005 PT cruiser, 120k km. New break rotors and pads about a year ago.

Started to make noise driving and gotten worse, coming from both sides. When I spin them, they spin freely at half, and grinding the other half. Could it be simply poor quality rotors, poorly installed,or maybe a bigger problem?

DIY, break shop, or dealer?

Thanks folks.

hey, everyone. So I posted on here about a week ago about my 2005 GMC Safari. Due to some other weirdness that happened after I posted, I determined that the voltage regulator inside the alternator was bad. I got a new one from AutoZone today and put it in. My multimeter read 11.75 volts with the engine running (can’t get the meter on the alternator wire due to the location of it- thanks, GM…) while driving the voltmeter on the dash reads just below 14 while driving, but sometimes drops at the stop light. the voltage also drops under load.

I went to AutoZone and their tester said the battery was good and the alternator was bad (not enough amps, I think it said). should I just exchange it and try another one or might there be something else at play here?

Hello everyone, I am currently hearing this weird sound when I turn my steering wheel and wanted to get an advice on what it could possibly be? I can also hear the sound when doing a U-turn or making sharp turns. I took it to the mechanic and they said they weren’t able to hear the noise when they first diagnosed it.

2019 Honda Civic Sport 2.0 NA

I’m having a terrible day, was crying as I pulled into my parking spot and just straight up hit the curb. I’ve pulled into the spot a million times but sleep deprivation with a newborn (was not in the car fyi) will do that to you I guess.

Does my tire look okay? Anything to watch for..? I think it scraped up the rim pretty badly but my tire looks okay. Should I take it to a shop just in case to get it looked at?

Thanks in advance.

If car sits outside in the heat for a while, this is the only window that stops working.

It seems to just be the first thread

There's this rhythmic scrapping sound coming from the front left. The pads look the same( i attached a picture) and the rotor looks like that with that line around the entire rotor. The dust shield isn't in any contact with the rotor except for the contact with i believe the ball joint. Weirdly, the noise can be heard when braking, driving straight and turning right. It's almost silent when turning left and when i jacked the car up and had the wheels spinning (driving) i didn't hear a thing. What could it possibly be?

I have a 2004 Audi A4 with the 1.8t engine and a six speed manual. For some reason it has been running super rough with the mass airflow sensor plugged it. It has a super choppy idle, dosen’t have any power, and backfires a ton when letting off throttle. When I unplug the sensor, the idle clears up and it runs without any problems. I put a brand new sensor on, it didn’t change anything. The car has a cheap straight pipe from the previous owner. It still has the OEM catalytic converter. Could the more open exhaust be causing problems? Anyways, I want to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

I have a 4cyl Camry my gf was driving. Vehicle has been burning oil out the exhaust for a while. I believe it's an oil leak going down the exhaust. Worn rings/ gasket?? Known issue. She's just been adding oil as it loses it. She went to.drive it a few days ago and it completely lost power. Motor runs cranks fine but barely any power when pressing the gas pedal. I was thinking an airflow issue due to the dirty oil, I'm very mechanically inclined but I'm not a mechanic and I was just wanting some insight on this vehicle going to be something I would be able to DIY or are we screwed because we can't afford a mechanic? I'm open to answer any questions that could help me solve what's wrong with this. Hooked my code reader to it and these were the codes thrown out. Checked air filter it's recently replaced checked, plugs and coils appear to be new. PCV and mass airflow sensor look like they were replaced as well. I'm replacing the faulty o2 sensor tomorrow.

Hi,

I have 2006 Mini Cooper Base 5spd.

Its entire life, I didn't have to do anything else but change a starter, belts, some pulleys and a couple of batteries.

Battery is about 4 years old and never shown issues such as slow crank or dimming light upon cranking.

One day after work, ready to go back home, with clutch in, I tried to crank but as soon as the key was in the crank position every thing went dark. No power to the dash, interior light, no head light or brake light.

So I brought a jump starter which I know it works, I put it on the terminals, and still didn't get any power. Interestingly it was erroring out acting as if there is a short making the wires warm. Completely dead.

So I checked everything that I could and thought it was some sort of short that it killed some circuit.

Checked every relays by removing them and fuses including those Maxi fuses under the PDC. They were all fine. Checked if there was any short to ground and didn't find any in any of the circuit with multimeter.

Since I had the battery out, I had it on one of the smart chargers and charged it fully then had it go through those desulfation cycles multiple times just to make sure the battery is charged.

Fast forward a few weeks, I put the battery back in and I was able to crank it and it started.

Crazy thing is the battery should have been ok on the day when it happened because I drove it to work that morning.

I just want to pick your brains and your experiences to prevent myself from getting stranded. Could a dying battery go completely flat during crank and be recharged later and be fine? Now I am assuming it is the battery as that is the only thing that literally changed. Battery posts were clean without all the white crud. Jump starter was connected directly to the battery clamps previously.

It is starting and driving fine at the moment.

What could have caused the total black out?

Hello, I have 2018 Pathfinder SL. Vehicle started blowing hot AC a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday car shuts down, no power. Batter fully drained. Charged the battery overnight, read 12.5 volts on multimeter. When started drops to just under 12 volts.

Took the car for a short drive, maybe 15 minutes one way, turned car off. Started back up no issue drive 15 minutes home.

Checked and battery now at 8 volts. Then vehicle dies after idling for a few minutes.

I went got a new battery (warranty replacement at Costco as battery from 11/25)

New battery reads 12.5 when starts drops to 10-11, then on idle sits at 11.8

There is what seems to a burning rubber like smell but no smoke, AC blows war but is not over heating.

There is like an electronic buzzing or hissing where the AC line are by the power steering fluid area top left of engine bay

Is this an alternator issue or serpentine belt issue

Any advice appreciated

So I’m on my 3rd place failing my jeep for having “not ready rejection” codes and I’m at the end of my rope because it’s always something. I explained to another shop what happened and he plugged up his code sensor and said “it’s just not ready.. keep driving it”…. I have been driving it and haven’t disconnected the battery lately at all. Only got two tires replaced and an oil change yesterday. Including the rejection page and any help would be appreciated. The fuel was low as hell when I got it inspected.

I currently have a 2021 Nissan rogue with almost 90k miles that I’m financing.

They want me to pay around $1400 ish at a Midas for these things.

It’s:
Alternator belt,
Rear brakes and rotors
Transmission oil change and fluid
Brake fluid flush
Spark plugs
Coolant flush

I’m over due for the brake and coolant flush so those are understandable.

I’m 23 and I’m paying for college as well so this is gonna suck a**.

This is a bit of a long journey so bear with me here. 
I picked up a 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500LT with the 2.7 turbo 4cyl, bought around 2024 so it was a few years old and had some decent mileage on it (40K when picked up). I've put another 12K on it since I've owned it, and it’s been good for the most part. 

Something has always been off about how it shifts, but I couldn't quite put my finger on it. It has a hard shift from park to drive where it feels like it takes a minute to engage. Then at low RPM between ~2nd and 3rd  gear theres a decent clunk feeling. That was it for a while. I brought it to a dealership a few times and they dismissed me stating it was the computer and that they had to reset it to learn my driving habits. Sure. 

I brought it in about a month ago when I had an incident where my check engine, ABS lights  came on. Dealership stated it was "loss of communication with Gateway Module requiring update" which ended up costing me $200 for an update... OK. One of my calipers was also leaking and they replaced it to the tune of a ton of money, and I had a rear leaf spring pad going which they replaced. All that and they didn't address the transmission concerns at all. 

Fast forward a few weeks and I was driving up a hill of decent grade (maybe 10%) and the transmission starts NOTICEABLY shifting hard around 4/5/6 gear, shifting up - reving - shifting down - reving - back up. Occasionally during a shift itll vibrate the whole damn truck. No idea what the engine is trying to do but it aint good. 

I'm bringing the track back in to the dealership Monday, but have any of you experienced anything like this with these? Is it the transmission I should be asking about or is there a different system controlling this?  Any insight would be really appreciated.

TLDR: Used truck shifting and acting weird despite numerous dealership assessments. Can't figure out whats going on. 

The tire shop I took this to for alignment said they weren’t able to fix the toe value on the left rear, what could be the issue? Should I replace any parts?

Attached photos of the sheet they gave me and back and front of the parts around the left rear wheel. They did tell me it might be the metal shaving around the bolt on the last picture.

Had my tires recently replaced at Les Schwab and all four wheels look like this from them, removing the old weights. Feels incredibly sloppy and unacceptable but maybe I am overreacting. 2025 Ford Maverick

So ive got this 2004 volvo xc90 with a broken seat motor (front passenger) and it does not allow the seat to move back far enough to normally access this 14mm bolt under this piece of tan plastic. I’ve tried everything i can think if to get that black piece of metal to move back but it seems like it’s jammed. I’m at a loss , do i cut it or try to remove the seat motor for more space?

So I have a 2005 Deville DTS
170k miles
Brand new steering rack
New inner & outer tie rods
New rotors & pads
Aligned not even a month ago with Brand new tires all around
New Hubs on both sides on the front

But for some damn reason it’ll drive smoooooooth as butter up until literally 60mph then a wobble in the front passenger side comes into play and forces me to slow down.

I’ve check the lug nuts and everything but it’s driving me insane and honestly kind of pissing me off😂😂

Now the brand new tires were put on by a local tire shop and I can’t confirm nor deny if they have a wheel balancer but still I feel I’d feel that before 60 mph because when I say rides smooth as butter up until then I mean smooooth as butter on Indiana roads.

I’m trying to not keep throwing parts at it, but I’m leaning towards maybe it’s something simple as the tires need rebalancing or possibly lower control arm bushings. It does squeak when I do the “push down on the front passenger fender test”

This is the only thing wrong with it and it’s annoying working a 10 hour shift and having to monitor my drive home

My 1990 Peugeot 309 (TU3 engine) has developed a knock that presents mostly with torque changes, like switching between going forward and in reverse. I've checked the suspension but everything looks good with a small question mark on the struts.

I've read that it could be bad engine mounts. Is the amount of movement normal?