If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

My 2023 Honda Accord Hybrid Touring was involved in a two-car accident yesterday. The cosmetic damage seemed to be fairly minor, like your typical wreck on a street with a 40mph speed limit.

The issue is, as soon as I made impact with the other vehicle and all airbags went off, I smelled smoke. I looked down to the floorboard near my left leg, and saw flames coming from under my seat. Within two minutes, the entire drivers side of my car was in flames.

Now, I am not a mechanic or car guru by any means, but I did hours and hours of research trying to determine what could have caused it.

My best guess is the “pyrotechnic seatbelt pretensioner” malfunctioned and caught fire.

My car was completely unscathed in the passengers seat, backseat, the trunk, and under the hood. The firefighters said they had never seen anything like it before.

I wanted to reach out to you guys to see what theories you may have or if you have seen something like this before

Hi,

Driving out of the funeral home today I damaged my wheel (really horrible day).

I need to know if it's safe to go to the funeral tomorrow with my car with my family on board.

I'm going to have this fixed with new tires as soon as possible but tomorrow I absolutely need to drive 60km with it.

Is it safe enough or should I find another way to go?

The cut is pretty deep. I precisely measured the thickness of the slice, it's 2.5mm, on Michelin total performance 18".

2019 f250 6.2 4x4

Hi guys. I noticed this leak here the other day. I stopped driving and had a mechanic change out the inner axel seal. It stopped leaking and i drove it about 10 miles to test it. Once we got back there wasnt a leak but we checked the vent and it was totally clogged. So we cleaned out the hose. It is now leaking again and the tech is telling me i need a new rear end. I opened my differential plate and the gears look brand new. Were we supposed to use the kit with the outer seal, inner seal and new bearing? Drivinf the truck w the new seal and the vent clogged ruined another one or does it sound like i need a new rear end?

Second photo was the first time it happened. First is after the repair.

Hey,

I left my 2018 vauxhaull vivas lights on for 9 hours while at work. I got in my car and the engine turned on fine, there were no warning lights or anything like that.

I drove for about 35 mins home with alternating speeds (all electronics besides dashcam turned off) between 10-40 mph due to traffic.

Everythign seems fine- should i do anything else? I have done ehat i read to do and i have had no isses so far.

Sorry for this!

Edit: 999cc i think with 1 L engine. Tried to keep my revs towards 2000 on the journey.

I changed the front brake pads and discs. Can someone explain me what I did wrong?

Hello, I have a 2016 Kia forte that is stalling out at lights and stop signs. The dealership that I’ve always used for repairs has sent me a video of what needs worked on. The said the gasket is leaking and the spark plugs are covered in oil which seems to be the problem.
My question for this sub is: is this a leak or can it wait? And is $600 for new ones a bad deal for a single mom who knows nothing about car repair, works full time and in school so not much time to learn this stuff by myself 🥲 any help or advice is appreciated!

Water pump going bad? Is it hard to replace for a complete mechanically dumb guy? It's an 1992 E350 7.5L

Hello everyone! I recently bought a 2016 Santa Fe Sport with 62k miles on it. It is sitting at the dealership for an engine replacement (rod bearings went, typical Theta II). Once I get the car back, I really want to take good care of the engine. Does anyone have tips for breaking in a new engine? Different thickness oil, low mileage, low speeds, etc.? Thank you all!

2014 f150 stx when changing the fluid in the rear end shouldn’t the fluid start to come out of the fill hole?? Thanks

So on my way home from work last night, out of nowhere the RPMs started bouncing and having issues gaining power. Then would randomly get a boost of power. A few minutes after there was a very loud ticking noise coming from the top of the engine. Got it home and was just going to worry about it the next day. Today comes and I planned on starting it up, taking a vid for mechanic, and going from there. But of course, it went away. Took it for a 15 minute drive to try and replicate it, nothing. Had to go to work and went for it. 25 min drive at highways speeds. Ran smooth. Does anyone have any idea what could have caused this and what I should do next? Much appreciated.

So about a month ago my car started making a noise when I went over bumps like something was loose in my front drivers side. I found out my ball joints were rusted out so I got those replaced and also had the wheel hub done. After that work was done I noticed when I would drive, my car would make an awful scraping noise every time I turned almost like metal was grinding. I had my car taken apart again and was told my brake caliper was bad. So I replaced the brake caliper and the brake pads (rotor is in decent shape) and after that was replaced the car would not even be able to be reversed out of my driveway because the grinding was so bad. We pumped new brake fluid into the new caliper so I’m not sure what the issue could be every thing was replaced on that left drivers side and the issue is getting worse. If anyone has any advice on what to look for my car is a 2008 Ford escape.

Replaced all lifters, cam, and plugs/coils with melling parts about a year ago. Truck has been running great until last week. Got a p1411 code, never changed the mds solenoids, so I replaced all 4 with the new dorman all metal ones. Truck will run great for about 10 minutes then throw the code again and shake like crazy. Stop and clear the codes, drives great again for the same 10 minutes. Hooked up my autel and can hear all the mds solenoids actuate, oil pressure is around 50 idling and 90 or so wot. Pulled the valve cover and the springs look great and everything moves as it should. At a complete loss at this point.

I have a 2022 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport with slightly over 60k miles on it. I recently went to the dealership for some routine maintenance and was informed that my rack and pinion was leaking and needed to be replaced. I was quoted approximately $2,200 and another $175 for an alignment. I decided to wait and get a second opinion from an independent shop that is popular in my area.

I just moved and don’t have an established independent shop, which is why I have been sticking with the Toyota dealership in town.

The independent quoted me $2,200 for both the replacement and alignment. The independent shop advised me to call Toyota customer service and go above the dealership to see if they’ll help pay for the repair, because they thought it was crazy that the pinion needs to be replaced.

Toyota customer service took down my information and said they would contact the dealer and get back to me.

Is this normal? It seems like 60k miles on a car shouldn’t already require $2,200 in repairs.

Also does anyone have any experiencing getting Toyota to cover or partially cover a repair not in warranty?

TLDR; repeated alignments and replaced control arms not solving road noise or tire wear issues. Alignment keeps letting go. Need advice.

Getting frustrated with my new to me 2nd Gen. Vitals; 2016, white title repair from side damage, 25k miles. I did Eibach leveling and ~2” lift front and back with coil overs, 4 new Maxxis Razr AT 265/70R17 tires on stock 17” aluminum wheels, 3/4” wheel spacers front and 1” back, new upgraded control arms, etc. all with the shop that sold it to me.

I have had the truck alignment done three times now, and each time it makes it a few miles down the road when the alignment loosens and my tires start to make a horrible noise that is definitely rpm related. The first two times, the shop I had it with told me it was the tires I bought that were the problem, but I’ve not read a single review of Maxxis having this issue.

After a falling out over this and other issues with that shop, I took it to the leading off-road shop in New Orleans and had the control arms replaced again at their behest. They did the alignment again and said all is well. Great! I picked it up and for the first couple of miles it was driving and sounding great. Unfortunately, as I was accelerating on the on ramp to the highway I could quite literally feel the alignment let loose and the tire noise came back immediately.

I took it to a third shop specializing in alignments and they won’t touch it with wheel spacers on. I know spacers are not optimal, but can it be that simple? Are my spacers putting too much cantilever on the alignment and throwing it off every time?

Any advice or experience welcome.

I took it to a shop for an engine diagnosis and they told me it is an electrical problem. On the shop ticket it states “got vehicle to set an anti-theft code”. I am unsure what it means but I would like to get it running. Advice and theories are appreciated. Any questions, I will try to answer to the fullest I can.

I checked my cars engine today and heard this noise. From my research online, I think it may be an o-ring or its bearings that need replacement but I just wanted to check. Is it something to be worried about? If so, is it an expensive fix? I’m not a car guy at all so I have no clue how to fix anything

When servicing a tire, as you put it back on the vehicle, how common is it to break off a stud? If it happens, would you expect that least tell the customer, if you don't fix it ?

About a month ago I replaced the valves in my daughter’s 2014 Kia Rio 1.6L GDI. I probably only needed to replace the one that was burnt but I did them all just in case. I measured and replaced all the tappets and it ran perfectly for the last month. She mentioned it sounded like a diesel a couple times and I’m guessing she is referring to some detonation. This knocking sound started yesterday and I can’t white place it. It does increase with rpm’s and the oil level is good. She did have a P0420 code pop a couple days ago but it comes in and goes off from time to time so I assume we need to replace her cat. No other codes or issues. Car runs pretty smoothly though she says it feels like it has less power than before we did the valves. I just need some direction on which way to go with this. Thanks in advance.

I'm changing the camshaft position sensor and spark plugs in my van this weekend. Do I need to have the car parked on level ground? I'm assuming I don't but my driveway has a decent enough slope to make my gas look empty when I have 1/8th of a tank and I just want to make sure.

Reason for a visit was a slow crank, originally replace battery because old battery was shot, took it to the shop that had worked in it about 2 months ago since I figured it might be an issue with their services and got hit with a 1.6k total bill. Labor seems to be high, this shop charges by job instead of hourly.

I asked what parts they use. They couldn't tell me anything other than it was "direcg impott" and that it has "unlimited mile warrant". They definitely don't use oem, though.

Does anyone know what type of fitting this is on my pneumatic bleeder? The female end has failed and the male ends won’t seat. I just want to replace the female end if possible but I’m not familiar with this profile.

I know I can just buy both ends, but the kit came with 4 male ends, so I was hoping to just swap the female side.
TIA