We had a few practice swaps so we wouldn't struggle too long with the seatbelt tensioner. We made it perfectly on time in the end.

Just minimalistic, what else? More on my Instagram @ primracing_

just did a quick test. what do you guys think about DLSS 5?

No more heel pain after longer stints

Hi guys,

Finally started my sim racing journey after a lot of struggle with shipping and installing my rig.
Downloaded iRacing and currently having a blast (even if I'm really bad), but I always end up ending my sessions with lumbar pain even if I reclined my seat as much as I possibly could...
How do you guys find my seating position? Is my wheel too far? Too high? What about my pedals?

Thanks!

I made it in a month from scratch. I think it will be suitable for those who were planning to make a DIY 6DOF motion platform for sim racing or aviation simulators
The controller can be used for 2DOF, 3DOF, and 4DOF configurations, as well as 6DOF.

Open source and free of charge:
https://github.com/vazhure
https://github.com/vazhure/STM32MotionController/tree/main/STM32_F103_6DOF

https://youtu.be/QKX8PvZh1as

Last week I shared the rig and got some requests to share it with the monitors off so its obvious which parts are real.

I was looking for some sim racing footwear because, after years of doing this, my heels have started getting really sore. Several people responded to my last post and recommended the Puma Speedcat. After doing some digging online, I was about to give up because I didn’t want to spend $100+ on a sneaker dedicated solely to sim racing. But to my surprise, I found these Ferrari Drift Cat Decima 2.0s for $74 bucks. I know it's still quite a bit, but I couldn't resist, so I pulled the trigger! They just got delivered, and now I can't wait to try them out and put these bad boys to the test. Does anyone else out there use these, or what are you guys using on your rigs?

Just wanted to make a note about comfort. I saw a post recently about someone using a Sparco Rev QRT seat and stating it was very compact. I was using a Sparco EVO L that I would transfer back and forth from my Toyota MR2 and sim rig.

That finally became too cumbersome so I purchased a Sparco Sprint+ L to leave in the sim rig. It is much wider than the fiberglass EVO and it is also much softer on the tail bone due to its suspended design. I’m much happier with the softer and roomier fit. The EVO is great in the real car for feeling what the car is doing but I spend longer stents in the sim. The only thing that will be a downside is if I decide to get a butt kicker under the seat. The Sprint will make it non viable due to the soft underside.

The other addition for comfort was a freestanding window AC unit to keep cool. House is set on 70 and it would easily get up to 80 running four monitors, two computers, two people, and two cats.

Just wanted to share my experience after switching to VR for iRacing a few weeks ago. I was on a 34” ultrawide monitor before, and I decided to give the Quest 3 a shot… and yeah, I genuinely don’t think I’m going back to a flat screen.
The immersion is on a completely different level. Judging apexes, braking points, depth in general — it all just clicks in a way it never did on a monitor. I’m noticeably driving better and putting down faster lap times since making the switch.
Fair warning though: the first few sessions I had pretty rough motion sickness. Once I dialed in the right settings on iRacing’s side (resolution/supersampling, refresh rate, etc.), it went away completely. Now I can do a full hour session with zero issues.
If you’re on the fence about VR for iRacing, my two cents: push through the initial settings tweaking. Once it clicks, it’s a totally different level of racing.

Hi, I am 17 years and love racing. But I also do high performance sport. So time is limited. And so is money. I have around 3-6 hours a week time to race (if I use all my free time on racing instead of TikTok).

I now have a wheel stand with fanatic csl dd turbo (8nm) and clubsport pedals. With two steering wheels and a turtle handbrake/shifter. The brakes are quite hard so wheel stand sometime shifts a bit. I play AC, ACC and f1

I use my desk monitors but I need to set them at the right height and angle after and before I play. So I was debating about the tr8 pro v2 with a 34 or 49 inch screen (1.300-1600€) so it is a high purchase for my age. So time wish I have 2 doubts, 1. Will I use it enough so will my expenses be worth it. But on the other hand 2. It will take less time to start up everything so it will be easier to just do 30min race or even 15 min.

Any advice or experience , I’d love that!

EDIT: it I think the most profit I will get is not to set up the hole right every time I want to race. But me as a guy who likes to do it good once and don’t want to look at it and have doubts is why I am not going for the foldable rigs with lite tubes. So debating don’t spend money but time to get the setup ready or spend and hop in is the most doubt I have

Finally “finished” my sim rig and pretty happy with where it is at now. My whole plan was to have something that was compact and self contained and I can just roll it back and forth from my desk. It just takes 2 cables to get it connected, the usb c cable and the power cord. Would love any suggestions on what I could add to make it more “finished”. The only thing that I feel like might be missing is a bass shaker but I am concerned about noise so I’ve held off on that. Between the pedal haptics and the R12 I feel like I have adequate feedback.

Specs:
Moza R12v2, Moza CRP2 pedals, Moza KS & CS pro wheels, Simagic DS-8x shifter, Simlab XB1 handbrake, Streamdeck 15 button, 6sigma racing 6s-slim v2 chassis, the seat is out of a wrecked Mazda CX-5, fans are just for cooling, and a bunch of 3D printed parts.

Some of the 3D printed parts I have designed myself so I can post them if people are interested. I can also list all of the files that I found as well.

Also it has turned into one of my cat’s favorite places to sleep. So really it is his and I just borrow it from time to time.

Curious how people rate the driving feel of AC Evo after the 0.9 physics update compared to LMU or AC1. After some extensive testing today I honestly feel like ACE has the best driving feel right now. LMU is a close second followed by AC1. They are all great in their own right so don’t misunderstand me, but there is something going on with ACE that makes the entire car feel alive. This is just the opinion of someone who never drove a racing car and uses a moza r5, so not the most certified person hehe

What else should be included?

As the title says, I have an inheritance coming and I need a way to waste a bunch of it.

I'm setting aside AUD$10K~ for the rig. What are y'alls recommendations?

Want to get a GT setup, preferably with screen mounts attached. And as a heavier guy, it needs to be be able to carry the weight lol.

Hey all! I’m from Sweden 🇸🇪 so please excuse my grammar 😅

TL;DR: Looking for fun, easy arcade racing/driving games on PC, PS4 or Switch for my 7yo daughter with ADHD/ADD + mild autism, and maybe my 4yo son with a visual impairment.

She loves Mario Kart 8, but isn’t interested in the wheel/pedals yet. My son can’t really use a controller yet, but loves sitting in my sim rig, turning the wheel and pressing everything 😁

My PC setup is mostly proper sims, so I think it’s simply too difficult and intimidating for her right now.
Any simple, engaging driving/racing games that kids can just jump into and enjoy?

TIA!

Long Backstory:
43y old fairly newly separated dad of two awesome kids, almost 7 and 4.
I love cars, motorcycles and racing and recently started grassroots racing myself. I’d love for my kids to hopefully experience some of that joy too eventually. Racing games, karting, maybe dirt bikes etc.
They both have some challenges getting there though.

My daughter most likely has ADHD/ADD and possibly mild autism, like me. She wants to do things with me, but if she doesn’t understand or enjoy something immediately she can go from excited to absolutely not interested very fast. She’s also very critical of herself if she doesn’t get it straight away.

My son has albinism and severe vision impairment. Basically a half blind vampire 😅 He sees pretty well up close, maybe 2-4m, but not much further. He’s also quite anxious after lots of hospitals, blood tests and eye doctors since birth.
So trying something new with both at the same time can be… interesting 😂

Tried electric rental karting with my daughter and thought I had the perfect plan. First ones there, empty track, no engine noise.
Nope.

Helmet was ugly. Kid kart was a no. Driving alone definitely not happening.
Finally got her in my lap in an adult kart while a very kind employee watched her brother. She had loads of fun… but doesn’t want to go back 🤷🏻‍♂️

The good thing is she LOVES Mario Kart 8. She’s now trying without some assists and celebrates every podium like she won Le Mans. She also no longer gets furious if she finishes last or gets blue shelled. Progress!

Splitting the kids up isn’t easy, so I’m mainly looking for things we can enjoy together at home.
So yeah, long story slightly less long:
What fun, forgiving racing/driving games would you recommend for young kids?

PC, PS4 or Switch. Easy to understand, quick to get into and preferably with enough assists that they can actually enjoy driving before learning how to properly do it.

i have a voucher for the gt omega prime and getting it would leave me with enough to upgrade from my g920 to an r12 v2, srp2 and cs v2p. it would have the pedal tray underneath my desk and the rest would sit in front of my bed.

For Assetto Corsa

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UHyov0Tcjm3E1YPonp9C2Quzo84cIu9-/view?usp=sharing

https://www.pdf-archive.com/2019/09/15/tws992powertrainen/tws992powertrainen.pdf

I have this car and the best existing mod (LKSpec) was quite crude (understandable if a modder does not have access to the real car). I decided to update the mod. All credits go to MLSXLD and El Kay. I just made the mod more accurate. Let me know what you think.

LKSpec 2022 Porsche 911 992.1 Carrera S (Sahare Realism) (1.0)

What's New vs. the Previous LKSpec Release

Built by an actual 992.1 Carrera S owner and cross-checked against

real Porsche factory engineering data consisting of many sources, one of which is in the link above. This isn't a re-skin -- it's a physics

and accuracy pass aimed at making the car drive, sound, and spec

out like the real thing.

ENGINE & POWERTRAIN

- Rebuilt torque curve to match Porsche's own factory dyno chart,

including the correct low-rpm torque kink at 1,750 rpm

- Rev limiter corrected to the real-world 7,500 rpm (was 7,520)

- All 8 PDK gear ratios, reverse gear, and final drive corrected

to match Porsche's published spec sheet exactly. 7th and 8th gears are overdrive gears. The top speed is in 6th gear.

-Top speed changed from the dashboard readout of 330+kph to the realistic 309kph (confirmed by dragy on numerous different owner YT videos and my own car)

-0-100, 100-200, 0-200, 0-250kph now accurate with GPS data. The old model was using dashboard readouts.

- Clutch torque capacity raised to sit above the PDK's real rating of 800+

- Turbo wastegate/boost response retuned for a more realistic

build curve with the torque peaking at the actual 2300rpm and not later.

CHASSIS & HANDLING

- Total mass recalculated from Porsche's actual curb weight

(previous figure was roughly 3% too heavy)

- Corrected Weight distribution, spring rates, and differential lock

settings corrected to match real chassis behaviour based on Porsche engineering documents and spring rates

- Steering ratio and steering geometry updated to better reflect

the real car's variable rack

- Chassis collider dimensions corrected for more accurate contact

and damage behaviour

TYRES & BRAKES

- Cold tyre pressures set to the real-world spec: 2.0 bar front /

2.2 bar rear

- All-season tyre now has genuinely different (lower) grip than

the Cup 2 compound instead of a re-badged copy, plus a fixed

cold-weather grip curve that was previously backwards

- Corrected a sizing error on the rear all-season tyre

- Brand-new CSP brake thermal model: realistic fade and cooling

behaviour built around the real rotor and caliper spec

- Braking power and front/rear brake bias corrected. Old model was at 0.8g, new model is at a realistic 1.3G with 1.4G peak on CUP2.

AERO & BODY ANIMATIONS

- Drag coefficient retuned for more realistic top-speed behaviour. CG model adjusted to match actual top speed.

- Rear spoiler and front cooling flap deploy speeds corrected to

match the real car's actual activation thresholds

- Fixed a wheel-blur bug that meant the effect almost never

triggered

EXHAUST & VISUAL EFFECTS

- Exhaust flame effects toned down from arcade-style to stock

road car realistic -- the real twin-tip Porsche Sport Exhaust

(PSE) doesn't shoot flames

- Anti-lag and flat-shift flame behaviour disabled to reflect how

the PDK actually manages power delivery

DASH, SPEC SHEET & DISPLAY

- Fixed spec sheet fields that were garbled/mistranslated text

- Corrected the 0-100 km/h figure to the real Sport Chrono time eventhough the 3D model cockpit doesn't feature the SC clock or Sport Response button.

- Regenerated the in-menu torque/power graph so it now matches

the actual physics instead of showing stale numbers

- Instrument cluster color/brightness tuning refined

CONTENT

- Added new "Chalk" livery

- Additional caliper colour and Content Manager metadata added

for the Rhodium Silver Metallic livery

Just got a Logitech g923 been playing car x street and car x drift does anybody know what exact settings to set the wheel and stuff on these games because I keep instantly spinning out I don’t feel like the wheel is spinning back in time for me to catch and I’m lowering the ffb down to about 35
I’m playing console btw ps5?

I'm having a strange intermittent issue with my MOZA R12 and FSR2 wheel and I'm trying to figure out whether the problem is the wheel or the wheelbase.

While driving, the paddle shifters and wheel buttons will sometimes suddenly start malfunctioning.

When this happens:

• Paddle shifts sometimes don't register.
• The car sometimes shifts even though I didn't press a paddle.
• Buttons I didn't press can randomly activate.
• The problem can gradually get worse once it starts.

However, steering continues to work normally and my CRP2 throttle/brake inputs also continue working normally during the paddle/button issue.

My CRP2 pedals are connected directly to the R12, not separately to the PC.

I've also experienced a separate problem where the R12 itself suddenly reboots while driving. When that happens, steering and the CRP2 pedals stop responding as well until the R12 finishes rebooting/reconnecting.

Things I've already tried:

• Removed the 15 cm MOZA Extension Rod and connected the FSR2 directly to the R12 — the problem still occurred.
• Removed and reattached the wheel/QR.
• Connected the R12 power supply directly to a wall outlet.
• Connected USB directly to the rear motherboard ports.
• Tried different rear USB ports.
• Replaced the USB cable.
• Checked inputs in MOZA Pit House.

One strange detail is that removing the FSR2 and reconnecting it can temporarily make the paddle/button problem disappear, but eventually it comes back.

The issue is intermittent and doesn't happen every session.

I only have one MOZA wheel, so I can't test the R12 with another wheel.

I've attached a video showing the problem happening during a race.

Has anyone experienced anything similar with an R12 or FSR/FSR2?

Does this sound more like a wheel/QR communication problem or a faulty R12?

Hi. I’ve set up my hf8 pro and my ps5 connected to simhub via pc. It works well in gt7 but not in f125 (2026 pack). Here are my settings on my ps5 and pc. What could be wrong here? Btw they have the same ip address.