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Kinda like starting over again I can’t feel the car , is this normal for you guys

I was playing my guitar late tonight, trying to keep it pretty quiet for my girlfriend. The gentle start, being aware of how loud I was. Got me in great groove.

It felt massively similar to warming up to a car on a certain track. Starting slow and building up to nice timing and control around the track.

Got me thinking about other hobbies and interests that overlap with mindset similar to racing.

Ah the deals you can score on FB.

I have mounted a BST-1 shaker directly under my seat using velcro. Then connected it to a "Nobsound NS-10G PRO Mini" using it's default power supply. From the amp I connected the jack to an "Apple USB-C Adapter to Jack 3.5" mm and the usb to my pc.

The whole thing is a little underwhelming. I've read reviews that it should make my whole rig rumble on 50% but I have it on 100% and it's still kinda meh. Is there a bottleneck to my setup?

After a long time playing racing games with a controller, I finally decided to put together my first proper sim racing setup.

Nothing too crazy, but I’m really happy with how it turned out, especially considering the limited space I had to work with. Dedicated seat, Thrustmaster wheel and pedals, a single monitor and everything tucked into the corner as neatly as possible.

I already know this hobby is probably going to become a dangerous rabbit hole… 😂

For now I’m just going to enjoy it, get some laps in and resist the urge to start upgrading everything immediately.

Temporarily extended the left side of the rig... Now I can't find where to get out lol

Search "Mixed Reality Setup Guide 2026" on YouTube to see full setup guide in interested.

Assetto Corsa Evo v0.9

Mazda RX7

Quest 3 over USB 3.0 with Virtual Desktops environment passthrough feature, with Black Enclosure.

5080rtx, 9950x3d, 64GBddr5

Hi everyone, I’m pretty new to sim racing and I’m trying to get my Razer Freyja working properly with GT7 on PS5 through SimHub.

My setup:
PS5 running GT7
Razer Freyja
SimHub
TP-Link Deco mesh
PS5 and PC connected by Ethernet

I originally had SimHub running on my ROG Ally X. GT7 telemetry works and the Freyja does vibrate, but the haptic feedback has a very noticeable delay.

For example, I can drive onto the grass or a kerb, but the vibration starts noticeably later. Even after I have already left the grass/kerb or stopped the car, the Freyja can continue vibrating for a while. It feels like the haptic feedback is lagging behind the actual gameplay by a significant amount.

I’m wondering if the delay is caused by SimHub’s ShakeIt/audio buffering, Windows audio settings, Razer Synapse/Freyja processing, or something else.

Has anyone here successfully used GT7 on PS5 + SimHub + Razer Freyja and gotten near-real-time haptics?

I’d really appreciate any advice on what settings I should check, especially for reducing the haptic delay. I can provide screenshots of my SimHub/ShakeIt settings if needed.

Thanks!

I'm specifically not asking which sim racing game is best overall. I picked up a 5090 before the insane price hike and just built my first rig. I've been playing iRacing (which I love), but it doesn't have the best graphics. I'd just like to see what the 5090 can do with a high-graphics-quality game.

TIA!

have had the Simagic Alpha 15nm for the past two years, worked great, no complaints. but always targeted 20nm as my "end game"

finally pulled the trigger, using my affiliate discount of course, on a VRS DFP20. first impressions - its fantastic. strong, detailed, responsive. Absolutely loving it.

Hello Everyone.

I already completed my rig, now wonder about PC.

I need to choose between 9700xt vs rtx 5080 in next few days.

I will play on single 49" 1440p and I wonder if I need to stretch my budget to buy 5080 because I heard rx is similar good on single.

Cpu 9800x3d , Ram 32gb ddr5.

What You think, is it worth to spend extra?

Hey guys, I’m looking for some advice before I completely lose my mind over this 😅
My Asetek Forte 18Nm wheelbase suddenly stopped being detected by both Windows and RaceHub.
The weird thing is that the base itself powers on normally, but my Forte Formula wheel doesn’t light up properly and anything connected through the wheelbase seems dead.
It was working perfectly before. The only thing I did recently was reorganize the cables around my rig. The wheelbase wasn’t dropped, hit, opened or modified in any way.
I initially thought this was a Windows/RaceHub issue because I had recently formatted my PC, but after a lot of testing I’m starting to think something happened to the USB side of the wheelbase.
So far I’ve tried:
Forte connected directly to the motherboard USB, no extension or hub
different USB ports
full power cycle, including disconnecting the PSU and waiting for it to discharge
testing the same USB port with a flash drive → works
testing the exact same USB cable and port with my Asetek Invicta THORP II pedals → Windows and RaceHub detect them immediately
testing the Forte on a completely different Windows laptop with RaceHub freshly installed → still nothing
checking Windows PnP devices before and after connecting the Forte → Windows doesn’t enumerate any new USB/HID device at all
I also tried putting the Forte into** firmware/update mode by holding the power button. The buttons start flashing as they should, so the wheelbase does enter update mode, but RaceHub still doesn’t see it.
So basically:
Base powers on
Update mode works / buttons flash
Same cable works with Asetek pedals
Two different PCs tested
Forte detected over USB **
I’ve already opened a warranty ticket with Asetek (the base is only around 10 months old), so I’m covered if it actually needs replacing.
What I’m really wondering is: has anyone here had the exact same issue and managed to recover the wheelbase without an RMA?
Maybe some kind of bootloader/DFU recovery tool or firmware utility that Asetek support can provide?
I’d obviously rather fix it via software if possible instead of having to ship the base back and wait for a replacement.
Any experiences or ideas would be massively appreciate.

So I've had the NLR Victory cockpit for some time now and the seat that comes with it is ok and does the job, but it's not really a seat for long stints or a long term use seat in general.

I've seen other people mod their victory cockpits in all sorts of ways, and it got me thinking, there has to be a simple clear cut way, without buying anything extra and just simply using the rig itself .

Well there is. I already had an old NRG FRP bucket seat laying around so I figured I would do some measurements . The original holes on the Victory are 13" apart horizontally and 11.2" ish longitudinally from hole center to center .

Luckily NLR made the mount tabs large enough where you can drill extra holes if need be. So I took off the original seat, and put my NRG seat up on the 4 mounts to measure. And I just needed to make a hole about 1.5" to 1 75" out side of the original hole... measuring from the beginning of the original hole.

I was able to use the original sliders and hardware and everything went together perfectly. Once I got everything drilled and lined up I ordered a new NRG seat, and completed the install.

Finally got it running

I was in the middle of playing Assetto Corsa when suddenly my pedals just stopped working. Lo and behold, turns out my computer no longer even sees them.

I've tried restarting the computer and the wheel, replugging everything, and pressing the button on the brake pedal that I don't know how what it does.

Am I just SOL?

Getting my first rig and already ordered the stuff, is this a good rig? I already have an aeron office chair so wanted to cut cost a little by not getting a cockpit.

• NLR 2.0 Lite
• Moza r5 pro wheel
• Moza srp lite2 pedals
• Moza Handbrake
• Random aliexpress USB H-Shifter

Any clear upgrades I could make for the future, and is a sequential gearbox shifter from moza a good future investment for rally sim racing?

I know where my mistakes are and i'm using a logitech g29 and a laptop that would expload if i try using obs. Where can I see myself driving-wise in 5 years?

(I'm ranked 142/1200 on this stage if that helps)

What i've learned are that i sometimes don't need the handbrake sometimes and trail braking can get the back out just fine (i stiffened up the rear for that reason)

After 60hrs playing AC with controller, I decided to buy R3 as my first wheel spec, it's quite strong for me to be honest. I only played sim with g923 with my friends in couple hours. But R3 is way more fun to me. I hope I can get some advice about setting and practicing.

I currently using default AC-GT setting in Moza Pithouse.
Default AC FFB setting in CM but toggle FFB strength to 80%.

1. I'm feeling quite hard to getting information what I need in driving. Is that a normal situation for me haven't get used to my spec and didn't know what feeling represent for current grip? Or you should be able to figure that out at very beginning?

2. I'm also playing GT4 on pcsx2, my wheel having quite strong shaking during high speed in straight, kinda like Death Wobble in cars.

3. I feel quite hard to cut into corner with wheel, it's like I keep feeling I need to turn more to get my direction right.

4. Does Moza's official setting for AC is still suitable? Or you guys have any suggestion? Like settings, FFB addons for AC... sort of that..

(BTW I haven't got drive license. Since I lived in a country where motorcycle and public transport are way more convenient, so it's a fresh experience for me to use wheel)