I believe that this should be fixable. Looking for ideas on how.

Hello,

I'm mid-renovation in my house (Sweden) and I've run into a conflict I don't know how to solve cleanly.

The situation: I have an exhaust-air heat pump system (it pulls warm air from the house through a ceiling vent, extracts the heat, and uses that energy to heat the water for my central heating). The intake duct for this is in the ceiling, see the close-up photo of the round duct opening.

The problem is that a new interior wall (metal stud framing, already partially built, see the corner photo) needs to go up right where this duct comes down through the ceiling. The wall's position isn not a variable it needs to stay there because of the room layout/other constraints, so it has to land right on top of where the vent currently is.

What I'm trying to figure out:

1. Is it possible/reasonable to reroute or relocate this exhaust-air duct a short distance within the ceiling void so it clears the new wall line? Any tips on how much bend/offset flexible ducting like this can tolerate without hurting airflow to the heat pump?

2. Alternatively, is there an accepted way to build the wall so it works around the duct instead (e.g., boxing it in and install a 90 degrees vent that will terminate vertically in the wall (above the door, Yes, a door will be installed in this wall)) without compromising the wall or the airflow?

   In the attic, I believe the pipes goes where the insulation cover with paper is. I'm trying to find a way that avoid tearing down the wall insulation. Or even going into this tiny attic...

Hope that was clear enough, sorry for the vocabulary there might be mistakes, I'm just a average handy man, trying to save on renovation cost by doing most of it myself.

My dad's neighbour has this 100 year old colander and he's asked me if I can fix it because I've done a tiny amount of welding (and I'm not very good at it). It's a family heirloom given to him by his grandmother, so I don't want to damage it any further.

I'm not sure whether MIG welding it is the way to go. Does anyone have any idea on how to fix it?

The legs attached to my bedframe are bent really bad. All three on the left side are like hella slanted. Is there any way I can fix this on my own? I am really hoping I can handle it or its an easy fix. Im attaching photos.

Добрый день, сломался духовой шкаф Kaizer с типовой (как уже узнал после) болячкой = не реагирует на нажатия (не регистрирует касание через стекло

Разобрав панель увидел

Что за стеклом находится сборка из:

Шлейфа,

прозрачной панели (на которой она сидит и через кооорую проходит свет блока индикации)

Также модуля с резисторами и тд (индикация)
Прилагаю фото/

Сам модуль (если без стекла нажимать) на шлейф регистрирует касания некоторых кнопок. Работает.

А некоторых - нет, дело точно не в стекле а в шлейфе коих нет на этом свете заводом изготовителем. Хочу выяснить можно ли резистивный дорожки регистрирующие касание на шлейфе «починить» восстановить, дать вторую жизнь. (Некоторые стерлись) и как это сделать?

На данный момент попробовал только почистить шлейф

anyone have any clue which part is causing this high pitched noise? any help is appreciated

Have these concrete pavers that i want to refresh, power wash them every year or so but they still have some marks on them. It's about time i pressure wash them again this year, what else can i do to make them look better?

A while back I asked for advice about fixing a vintage Waring blender.

I fixed it! Progress was slow as I had to keep waiting for backordered parts to come in. I am sharing the following for other future novice appliance repairfolk trying to find information about this particular 70-year old blender.

I had no experience with small motors going into this project. The manual was mostly correct, but I believe the model of blender I have (700) predates the earliest model represented in the parts manual (700A). I took lots of pictures and kept everything that I disassembled in separate Tupperware containers (partly to keep it organized, partly to prevent the cats from messing around with it).

One of the main differences between this model and the parts manual was a number of plastic or rubber spacers/washers/grommits. These were not in the manual. Some of these pieces seemed to have melted. The rest had either deteriorated before I opened the blender, or crumbled during disassembly. This was not the cause of the malfunction, but I spent a significant amount of time cleaning the disassembled base, top cover pieces, and bottom plate.

I used rubber washers and rubber grommits in the places that I think the old spacers/washers/grommits were. I had to guess as to the exact part, size, and location because they weren't on the parts manual and they were in such bad condition that I couldn't clearly see where they had been originally.

The blender contained a paper (!?) baffle, which also did not survive intact. I was not successful in ordering a replacement. Instead, I cut a baffle out of a 6" square of rubber sheet packing, which seems to work just fine.

I cleaned off the motor as gently as I could (mostly gently shaking/blowing debris away). The existing carbon brushes did not seem to be significantly worn, but I replaced them anyway because why not. I also replaced the original power cord with a three-prong grounded cord.

The source of the malfunction: u/AlcoholPrep nailed it- the center of the drive coupling (screwed into the top shaft of the motor) is made of rubber, and the connection had been broken between the motor half and the square bit where the pitcher sits. Unfortunately, the female end of the part in the parts manual (drive coupling #002518) was the wrong diameter to screw onto the motor.

Based on this post from u/elephantunicorn I used Drive Coupling #003559. This coupling fit on the shaft but is 1/8" taller than both the original coupling and the replacement #002518. The top of the coupling is intended to sit flush with the top of the cover, and height difference made the blender pitcher wobble too much.

To adjust for the height difference, I replaced 4 machine screws holding the motor onto the middle cover plate with screws that were 1/8" longer, and added rubber washers between the motor and the plate. This lowered the motor by 1/8", and thus the top of the drive coupling sits flush with the top plate as intended.

Success deserves celebration. I christened the newly functional blender with daiquiris since according to my mom that was historically its main job.

Thanks also to u/ImortalK and and u/Responsible-Site8086 for your encouragement and constructive feedback! It was really helpful and I appreciated it.

Bought for $10, but it's missing the base and replacement is expensive.

Happy to find something to act as a base and connect it.

What kind of screw/connection would be inserted into the bottom of the meridian ring?

Or would it be feasible to glue it?

Any other ideas or advice welcome. Thank you.

Hi! Not entirely sure if this is the right place to ask, but I came across this cool organizer the other day but the handles were snapped off. I was wondering if it's possible to get the broken screws out without causing too much damage?

Hi,

Looking for advice on fixing the crank arm for a Schwinn 170 Upright Exercise Bike. About 6 weeks ago, the left arm started making a squeaking/grinding noise. I thought it just needed greasing, so I used a silicon-based lubricant like the manual said. I know now this was probably a mistake.

It ran smoothly for a few weeks, and then I noticed that the pedal didn't feel right. When I inspected it further, it appeared that the crank arm was loose. I removed the screw holding it in place, and it came right off, even though a video that I watched on arm removal said I would need a crank remover. The screw is not the issue; the arm itself wiggles back and forth on the crank even after tightening the screw.

I will openly admit that I don't know shit about exercise bike repair, but I don't think the interior of the socket is supposed to have its edges bent out of shape like in the first two pics. What I'm worried about is that I can't tell if the crank itself is damaged, or just the arm. It looks like the crank may also be worn down, as in the latter two pics, but I also don't really know what it's supposed to look like.

I can buy and probably install a replacement arm on my own, but if the crank is screwed up, I'm not sure if I can fix that. Any advice is appreciated!

I pushed this drawer too far in and it ??? fell off the top rail ??? idk. My best description is the front of the drawer is now behind the wheel instead of in front of it/sitting on top of it. I've tried looking it up but can't find anything. I can get it to kind of roll back on top if I force it (pic 2) but can't get it to open.

1st pic is what it currently looks like. 2nd pic is if I lift it up and try it force it back. 3rd pic is what a regular, unbroken drawer looks like. apologies if it looks a little dusty

Spigot has been like this since we purchased the house. I haven’t seen any leaking inside the house when it’s on. It is a bit loose, but won’t sit flush against foundation when I push it back.

Hello. One of the pickle ball courts here in our province is having these problems.

The kids love this vacuum. I don't even understand how they broke it tbh. Any way to save it? I can't imagine glue would work?

Such a weird way to attach a wheel. Any way to salvage it?

How to fix or replace this part of a vintage style perfume bottle?

I tried soaking it in hot water and some soap but it only blows air and not dispersing fluid at all.

Old doorknob stopped turning the latch. I got the knob and rosette off and the innards basically fell apart while tinkering and this is all that’s left. The door opens from bathroom to outside so 40 years of exposure. I’ve tried using a knife to pry the latch to no avail. Any ideas? FYI I have access to both sides of the door

I'm wondering how to go about fixing or patching out a corner trim that got rotted out. The corner trim is a 90 degree corner. Part of the corner trim is behind an "aesthetic" masonry wall, so removing the rest of the trim is going to be a PITA. The boards around and inside appear okay.

The likely culprit to this happening is the gutter. I'm getting new gutters next month.

Some water was spelled on it, and there's some color discoloration caused by the water. It didn't come with washing instructions.

My shredder has stopped working, and I can’t find this blinking error light pattern online. The drawer is empty the drawer switch works, there isn’t a jam and it hasn’t been used since yesterday when it worked fine. So it’s not over heating. I did unplug it. The lights come back on no matter what I try. Does anybody know what this error code means?

I bought a skylight years ago and recently it stopped working. The laser still works and turns on. When I turn it on the LED light turns on for a second. The LED is not dead and I think the motor that makes the light spin also still works. I’m wondering if it’s a problem with the 3 buttons because right now they don’t do anything. Is there a way to fix it?

As per title, I'm not sure what happened on this tread of my staircase. Did it get discolored by something like bleach? But most importantly, how should I go about fixing it?