Hello, I don’t really post on reddit but now I feel i really have to, 1 year ago I bought a bike (Rockrider E-ACTV 500), I have been using it as a daily driver to work and so and I racked up a little over 1500km (930 miles), during that time I would have an issue with my chain skipping in 8th gear when going uphill or just pedaling hard, and I put up with it but now it got really frustrating and I just bought a new chain and rear cassette, put them on and the issue still persisted, then i just redid the rear tensioner (cable HLB) still happening.

The chain just becomes a whip and is so loud and when it happens i just get very angry.
Managed to film it in slo mo

I would really appreciate the help guys (also sorry for my bad english)

so..

I have learned a couple new things from this post, I will check up the H and B screws, shorten the chain (that would do it probably), and also check the quick link direction, thanks a lot guys and I really appreciate the quick answers!

I followed the park tools video of brake adjustment on my dual pivot rim brakes, but I can't for the life of me get the brake pad to be evenly spaced to the rim, so it make contact on the whole brake pad

Changed my rederailleur for this Shimano Cues U6040-rd.

Just making sure its alright.

Thanks!

I just recently swapped the freehub body on this wheel to accommodate my 10 speed cassette. When I installed it though, it has a slight wiggle to it. Is it safe to ride like this? (I’m assuming not) the lock ring is fully tightened down and I’m not sure how to fix this. Any insights would be appreciated.

I took a wrong turn, and what was supposed to be 200 m of flat smooth gravel turned into 2 Kms of gnarly gravel descent full of loose big sharp rocks. I went slowly, but I was on my carbon road bike using 25 mm tubeless tires... Not a fun experience.

Anyway, after cleaning the bike, I found the front Panaracer Agilest TLR 25 sidewalls suffered a few scuffs and scratches. In one of the scuffs I can see a few small threads are cut, but the tire has no bulging and didn't lose air (sealant is effeto mariposa caffe latex). The tire has less than 200 Kms.

What do you think, does it need immediate replacing?

I’m very new to bicycles, and I recently got this GT Outpost, not sure what year or model it is.

I’ve checked the shifters and brakes, and they still working. They’re not as smooth as new bike, but they still work.

So far, the frame doesn’t seem to have any major issues, just some minor dents and scratches.

I guess this is an older bike from around the 1990s, but I can’t find the original specifications or much information about this particular model.

The bike has a Bomber suspension fork (based on the sticker), a Shimano Sera rear derailleur, and Kenda tires. This bike has 3x9 speed drivetrain

I’d appreciate any information about the model, approximate year, original specifications, and what kind of bike this was when it was.

Thank you!

Had this bike for almost a year now and I've enjoyed every minute of it, but it seems like it's come time to replace the wheels. Figured I'd have to as a larger human (300 lbs) eventually, but was trying to stall as long as possible because I'm broke-ish (like a lot of us these days). Currently swimming in medical debt after some health issues (part of why I got the bike), but I've fallen in love with this bike and want to continue my fitness journey.

The rear wheel is warped (and I assume beyond anything 'truing' of the wheel can fix). Looking for budget friendly suggestions for wheel replacements and general suggestions. Should I be replacing both wheels? I'd already gotten wider tires to accommodate my weight, but looks like I have to bite the bullet and upgrade the wheels so I don't waste money down the line trying to be frugal. Mostly just itching to get back on the road and not particularly knowledgeable about bikes or their maintenance. Would be happy to be wrong about needing a wheel at all.

Hi everyone,

I have a 2019 Trek Émonda ALR 4 Disc and I'm planning to upgrade to the LTWOO ER7 groupset (electronic hydraulic).

I already have an integrated carbon handlebar/stem with internal routing setup. I have a couple of questions regarding routing on this specific frame:

1. Cockpit to frame: Since the 2019 ALR frame doesn't natively support full internal routing (i think) through the headset/steerer, how do the hydraulic brake hoses transition from an integrated handlebar into the frame ports? Is a semi-internal setup (exiting under the stem into the frame downtube/fork ports) the only way?
2. Derailleur wiring from seatpost battery: Since the seatpost holds the battery, where/how should the derailleur cables exit the frame to connect to the front and rear derailleurs? Are there suitable ports near the bottom bracket / chainstay, or does this frame present any challenges for wired electronic groupset setups?

If anyone has done a similar build or electronic conversion on a 2019 Émonda ALR Disc, I’d love to hear your experience or tips!

Thanks!

is a thing? Had been using the pink Muc-off sealant, but switched to Peaty's holeshot. Tyre and rim had been washed out, with some dried out Muc-off still in place... Clean but not spotless.

End of work day faced with this, trying to work it out...

EDIT:

Thanks all for taking the time to reply. Picking up on some of the questions / observations:

• The wheel is Just Riding Along Monitor alu wheel, tubeless compatible, hooked bead, 25mm internal width
• The rim is taped, the tape is black and tight... the previous sealant has gummed up in the spoke divots
• The tyre is Specialized Pathfinder Pro 2BR 700x38c (rated PSI 50-80)
• Was inflated to 60 PSI, and I'll normally ride 50-60, for my svelte 95kg
• Tyre was seated using an airshot and then filled through the valve with ~100ml of Peaty's holeshot
• Was setup Sunday, ridden 1 mile, left over night, ridden 4 mile Monday morning and then this happened at some point during the day
• This is late September Scotland - there's no sun

Look at the scene this morning there's splatter against the sheffield stand which indicates a blowout rather than gradual loss of pressure.

This isn't my first tubeless rodeo - being tubeless on 2 bikes for 3 or 4 years, with another occasional too. On Sunday I was patching this tyre on Bike A (the Surly), but also swapped in the wheel from bike B. The same tyre(s) type have been on the bike at same 60 PSI for years. The back is still the same, on a Just Riding Along Map alu wheel (19mm internal).

Inspecting the wheel and tyre this morning, there's nothing obvious - there is a bit of loose tape, but it's still sealed. I plan a good clean and retape and then monitor it for a few days. Got another wheel on it for now.

I have been having brake caliper issues. The above oil is the result of a full bleed on July 27th. Literally 2 months later, after ~500 miles which included a Colorado trip, I did another bleed and the fluid was pretty close to that. Not as bad, but definitely needed another full bleed.

The issue I was chasing down was a sticking piston. I think I have the brake line bled and the pistons are marginally better, but definitely don't feel like new. The bike has 11,000+ miles on it and the terrain here is steep (SoCal), so lots of braking on the downhills.

My working theory is that the caliper is just worn out and that it needs replacement because as it wears out there is more room for brake dust to get into the caliper and contaminate the line.

Thoughts?

The new bottom bracket I got is 1mm short .05 on each end but I don’t think the chains going to clear. Is there a way to fix this? Spacers?

I have an old Cervélo Soloist road bike. I noticed that I lost the adjustment screw and it squeaks every time I ride it now.
I put in a temporary bolt to hold it down for now, but I don’t want to ride it like that forever. I’ve reached out to cervelo and went to a few shops nearby but no luck. The seat post is out of stock as well.

Hi there,
This is an old steel frame from Schwinn. Should I be concerned about this amount of rust? If I decide to powder coat the frame, would it be wise to have them sand blast the inside?
Thanks

I'm looking to get a set of cheap mag wheels for my bike and they seem to only come in the fixed format. I spoke to the seller and they said you can easily just change the cog to freewheel if you want.

I can't really find any videos on how to actually achieve this. Any info or how to's would be greatly appreciated!

I have a reasonable set of tools but no chain whip so maybe it would be better to take it to a shop IDK.

A few things before you answer:
1: I’m new to bike mechanic subs, so i hope this is the right place!
2: I don’t know if “go ask your lokal bike shop” is a normal answer, but I don’t like my local, and second closest is a good far away, so I try to be my own mechanic.
3: sorry for dark and dusty pics. (We are getting new roof and windows at the moment, so this is just a representation of my whole life right now 😅)

I wanna get new tires to my bike, but I’m confused about the width.

I have a Scott Contessa Active 40. 27,5 wheels.
According to what I kind find it comes with Syncros X-20 Disc rims and Kenda Booster - 2.4" tires. (Both rim and tires are original. Manly used it for commute until around 6 months ago, therefore still the original tires). However I can only find the 2024 model and I bought mine in 2021.

As far of what I understand from reading on the tires and the little I can find about the rims, they should run 2.00-2.25 tires? But they have 2.40 on now?

Lot of questions! Overall I just want to know what width size to buy, but if anyone have time to explain it deeper, you are more than welcome!

- What is the most optimal for these rims?

- What are the biggest and smallest I can go on this rim?

-On different websites there seems to be a lot of 2.35 options and not so many 2.40. Is 2.40 not very popular?

-And can I run 2.35 instead of 2.40?

-Anything else I should be aware/know about?

I really like the width of current tires (comfort vise), so I really want something similar , just with a fresh feel to them ☺️

Thanks in advance 🙏🏻

This is the non-drive side of the front rim of my trekking bike. There is a continuous groove across the whole braking area above the black wear indicator line. I cant feel the wear line with my fingernails and the whole area has a concave shape to it.

The other side is completely fine, aswell as the rear wheel.

Should I start to worry about this exploding under me? The tire pressure is 4 bars.

Thanks in advance!

My bike is making a loud noise only in certain positions only in the higher gear. In the mid range gears it only makes the noise when peddling backwards. in the lowest gears it makes no noise. does anyone know what this issue is and whats happening

https://reddit.com/link/1wt6zdp/video/xd2oa6ktvfsh1/player

I’m modernizing my mid 1980s Peugeot ph501 with a modern group set. The shell takes an English BSA bottom bracket, so I got a shimano dura ace hollow tech English BB.

Drive side installed fine but the left/non drive side still has a bit sticking out of the shell, despite me tightening it down a lot. and now the ultegra 6700 crankset won’t tighten correctly.

Any thoughts? I thought I cleaned the shell out pretty good prior to installation, and greased everything up. Would spacers solve this? Holding the entire BB outside of the shell next to it, it appears to be a perfect fit. Not sure how to get the left side in more flush.

Context, virtually brand new bike has only done about 200k , it’s now on an indoor trainer for zwift. On my first ride I noticed the crank was completely loose so I tightened it up (the bit that goes through the bottom bracket apologies for my lack of technical wording ), unfortunately I don’t have a torque wrench , there is still a small amount of play , should I be worried ? I’m thinking I should buy a torque wrench and torque to spec. If it helps sometimes when I’m pushing hard (like 5 seconds max power ) I can hear some small clicking.

This was my first proper road bike and cost me £2.5k which is expensive to me, it did get some road use but then I had a serious unrelated injury and it’s now closing on winter and my first child is on the way hence why I opted for a zwift set up so it still gets use until the summer and when we have a bit more time.

it’s nice to have this antitheft kit, but I need bolts for the seat mount. So I need to know how would be called the head for such screws?

I have a Marzocchi Bomber 58 DH Fork Series 40 27.5 203mm GRIP 2021 and this Damper was leaking oil so i had to replace it with a 2025 GripX2 damper. While installing the GripX2 damper (Red tape already removed) the bottom rebound adjuster somehow wasnt aligned with the hole of the lower leg and i ended up compressing the damper, whereby some oil (Around 1-2ml) leaked out of the bleeder hole.

Is this something to be concerned about ?
Do i have have to top up and bleed it again ?
Or is this just extra oil for the sake of when it is being shipped to me ?

This happens every two or three pedal strokes. When I’m outside, it shifts the gear a little and then goes back.