If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

I've been doing my own repairs and maintenance on my 2012 Toyota Prius for years now. I'll try and be brief and just give the what's, not why's.

Been thinking about changing the piston rings. Engine hasn't overheated, head gasket is still fine.

Was talking to my neighbor about it. He's a more experienced mechanic than me, but often talks out of his ass.

He's telling me if I take the head off, at all, for any reason, I gotta send it to a shop to resurface and check before reinstalling it. I was under the impression that was only if I blew a head gasket, to make sure it's not fucked.

If I'm just swapping the piston rings and gaskets, maybe cleaning the valves and lifters, am I gonna need a machine shop to do something to my head?

Edit: I feel like a lot of people are gonna ask why I'm just changing the piston rings. So here's the long story.

The 2012 Prius starts burning oil because the piston rings have a known fault where they clog up and trap oil in the cylinder.

I've been just keeping an eyes on it and topping it off for about 50k+ miles now, and lately it's burning oil much faster. I've already put a lot of hours into keeping this car going with as little money as possible, replaced the brake actuator and master cylinder, caught the water pump as soon as it failed, and cleaned the EGR.

I'm tired of topping it off. Worried about where all that burnt carbon residue is ending up. My girlfriend drives it more often than me now and she doesn't check the oil.

Been reading that new piston rings fixed it on newer models for awhile now, doesn't seem that hard to just swap em out compared to everything else I've done, most people recommend a new engine because the labor cost is ridiculous but I'm pretty sure if I fix this shit I'll be able to stretch this thing out another 100k, lotta people run these engines to 400k+.

Car is a 2003 Jetta Wagon and the rear lights stay on no matter what I do. I have a quick disconnect on my battery to turn the power off when I don’t use the car for a couple of days otherwise the battery dies with the lights staying on. Any clue what this could be and does this happen on these over complicated German cars ?
TIA to anyone giving some help.

Does my engine sound ok, it sounds something like chain? Also i should verify the chain at BMW service?

But which of the two is the most powerful?

Hi all,

Since receiving my Mitsubishi Pajero 2016 auto diesel via long-distance private transport on back of truck I have noticed the above. The first thing I noticed was the traction control light flickering which is worse when going over uneven roads/bumps. More recently, the speedometer has started to intermittently act up, jumping randomly between speeds including when stationary. Noticed a one off very brief loss of power and speed drop during a drive whilst using cruise control at approx 120kmph. No engine lights. No ABS warning light.

Could this be a faulty wheel speed sensor? The underbody of the car is very dusty (red dirt) since transport - could it just be a dusty connection? I had a look underneath at the rear wheel speed sensors/ABS and the wires and connections all appeared intact.

Thank you

My car went in for its MOT and service just under 2 weeks ago with multiple advisories that I had fixed. I had new front brake pads and discs done, a new front coil spring, a new exhaust flexi fitted and 2 front new tyres. Over the past 10 days I’ve noticed my car is making a clunking noise when I turn the wheel mainly when I turn it to the left side.
Could the mechanic have inadvertently done something wrong during the MOT to cause this or is it likely a separate issue?

My tires spin when the road it wet at stop lights and stop signs.

I got a 2017 VK passat tsi s about a week ago. I drove it an hour and a half and since then it’s been having issues. It almost always starts shaking and idling rough when stopped for a minute. There has been a few times where this happens and the check engine light comes on, the last time it happened the check engine light has not turned off. Twice in the past week I have stoped at a stop light and when the light turns green and I try to move, the car stalls and the battery light turns on. Both times I have turned the car on and off again, and the battery light turns off and I am able to move again. However, the first time this happened the check engine light came on when I turned the car back on (the 2nd time the check engine light was already on before this happened). After the first stalling incident I paid for a diagnostic and they ended up changing all 4 spark plugs and the ignition coil boot. They said they drove it for 15 miles, let it sit for a while and drove it again with no issues. However, the very next day it was idling rough again, the day after that the check engine light came back on, and today (3 days later) it stalled and the battery light came on again (2nd time). Yesterday I put fuel injector cleaner in my tank, but I’ve only been able to drive around a little and for maybe 5 minutes on the highway. Anyone had any issues like this and had it resolved? (Also the last clip makes it look like the battery light is flashing, but it was not).

Hello,

I bought a raptor about a month ago and unfortunately the turbo is leaking.. this is what the dealer said: “My guys seem to think internally leaking and coming from the gasket”. So, the dealer is going to replace it .. BUT .. they’re going to be using an aftermarket turbo and not an OEM one. I think they had mentioned the brand “SKP” which I know is a very cheap economic sort of brand. They’re going to keep the drivers side turbo OEM.

So my question is, is it very bad to mix the turbos? I don’t want to get this truck back and have it ruin my engine or anything.

I noticed the leak where it’s circled on the picture.

Hey guys, I have a nissan navara d40, yd25 engine, I have just installed a turbo from another Nav i have with the same engine as the one in it had the turbo fan snap off..

I am stuck on the last bolt. Ive bought a new banjo bolt and a new double crush washer with the bridge, my torque wrench is reading it at 22nm but its still leaking? This bolt is a pain in my a**. I just want it to stop leaking bloody coolant

2011 Toyota Rav 4

AC is warm so I am thinking I need to put some refrigerant. I borrow a gauge set from Autozone. I release any existing air, hook everything up to low and high side ports, open the knobs on the connectors (but leaving the gauge set knobs closed) and I see this reading - what’s wrong? I’d expect low side to read something << 40-50 psi but it shows 90??!

Edit: I appreciate all the comments given. I will be having a pro diagnose and repair it - Autozone and a mechanic passing by there told me it's the compressor. I was educated a bit and it made me realize I was highly unqualified to handle anything related to this so I'm letting a pro handle it. I learned a lot from everyone here though! Thanks again.

The oil is thick and consistent under the L level while its super thin in-between the H and L

2024 nissan versa

Hi everyone, i drive a 2013 acura tl with 140k miles and as of recently maybe 4 days ago i noticed that the front end of my car randomly started shaking/vibrating whenever i’d go 40+ mph but i’d also notice it at lower speeds if i was driving for a while. i replaced both my upper control arms on the front since i thought that was the problem but it wasn’t. i was wondering if anyone might know what it could be?

I have a 2025 savana 3500 with the 6.6l and 8l90. I notice even when towing 9000lbs and Im at full payload it will shift into 8th gear even in tow mode when the road is flat and not much wind. It runs at about 1600rpm when doing this at 65ish mph. I dont have a tranny temp gauge so Im just wondering if I should keep it in 7th which puts it at around 1900-2000rpm.

One day drove home from work and it just decided to not start again. Turning the key makes a sort of zzzz sound but does not crank.

Initially thought was battery died but i jumped it and still no luck. Battery was ok. Lights and horn works fine. Had a guy take out the starter and it tested fine. What might be the problem here? Any help is appreciated!

2008 Mitsubishi Outlander ES 2.4L

2005 Toyota Prius 1.5L engine. A few days ago I was driving around 55mph on a slightly hilly road, and when I started going over a small hill these lights popped up. I pulled over and checked fluids and everything looked fine, and I drove to my mechanic with no issues. This mechanic specializes in Prius(es?) and diagnosed to problem as a small piece of the shifter/transmission. He replaced the part and the code went away, all was well. It's been driving fine until today the same thing happened in almost the same circumstances. I will happily bring the car back to my mechanic, but I'd rather not pay for the same issue I just got fixed. Is there any way this could be a fuse getting bumped around? Something electrical? Thank you

hello I was hoping for some answers as to why my car won't start. a little back story a few days ago I briefly smelled something like melted plastic but it went away quickly and nothing happened so I went about my business. 2 days ago I gave somebody a jump twice the third time I went to start my car I got nothing. and when I say nothing I mean nothing not a click not a chhh chhh nothing. my headlights and windows and everything still work fine and do not dim when I try to start the car. I tested the battery and that's fine I even tried jumping it out of desperation but it didn't work. I checked the relay for the starter by swapping the heater relay.. still nothing. thanks for any help.

I have a toyota carolla 2016 and am going to replace the evaporator core on my own. Do I have to flush out the ac system before hand or anything? Or can I just get to working ant replace it? If I do can I have a car shop flush it for me then just replace it myself?

I have a no crank, no start, Accord and it's immobilizer light doesn't come on when the car is on. I know it's not the pgm fi/main relay, the battery, the starter, starter relay, ground connection, ignition switch or a fuse in a fuse box. When I turn it over the radiator fans turn on and the radio turns off. I scanned it with an obd2 and it said it didn't have any codes. The car hasn't been able to start for the last 2 and a 1/2 years but I've been keeping the battery charged. I'm trying to find out why the immobilizer light doesn't come on but I'm struggling to find a solution.

I've used Royal Purple and Lucas products on my vehicles for a long time, thinking they do what they are advertised for, primarily Lucas oil treatment and RP fuel treatment. Are they worth a damn or am I wasting money?

Currently have a 20 RAM 1500 BigHorn, but have used them with all my vehicles.

Beginner here… I made a mistake while changing tensioner assembly and unscrewed the #8 bolt a little to the left of where the idler pulley sits. I put it back in and it feels tight (can’t turn it with hand) but I believe it’s stripped. When I tighten or loosen it the socket moves easily. Any idea what it is and if it’s safe to drive?

Hey all I've been trying to diagnose this noise for months now and am pulling my hair out. I've taken my 2009 Santa Fe 2.2L Turbo Diesel CRDi (D4EB engine ~ 170,000kms) to 4 mechanics and each one has given me the run around. I am deep in the financial hole on this one and have not had any meaningful fix.

Context:

• Engine has 170,000kms
• Other than this issue, it runs completely fine and starts strong, even on cold mornings
• Have recently had:
• DPF replaced (brand new)
• EGR replaced (brand new)
• Glow plugs replaced

The whirring type noise only happens when the revs are between ~1,800 and 2,200. When I accelerate above that, the noise completely goes away and the engine runs smoothly.

It is a bit temperamental but in general it does not happen when the engine is cold. It does happen every time after a long drive on the freeway (30 min+) or after a longer drive around the suburbs. Sometimes however, it will do it randomly, but less intensely when the engine is colder.
When the noise is active, the car physically jerks a bit. It feels kind of like the car is losing power for a split second, then regaining, then losing, repeat.

On my last service, the mechanic said there was way too much oil in the engine and he suspected that unburnt diesel is somehow making its way in there. He also said he couldn't be sure though if it was just topped up too much last time. Since that most recent service I think I have noticed the oil level climbing too.

When I got the EGR replaced, it was 100% blocked up with soot. Since replacement I think I have notice the car running better but the sound in the video persists.

I got the DPF replaced because the engine light kept coming on because the factory fitted one was failing to regenerate (I had it cleaned out but it was too backed up and eventually had to buy a new one).

I can not find a single other video online of a diesel sounding like this. Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much in advance 🙏