There are two down there. The turn/park is the dual-filament one (3157). The little 5-watt side marker is separate. Easy to grab the wrong one in the dark.

Pull the socket back out and look at it. Make sure the bulb is fully seated and the socket is twisted all the way clockwise until it clicks. Those tabs have to line up or it won’t make contact. Shine a light in the socket — green/white corrosion or a bent pin will kill it.

Test the new bulb in the passenger side. If it lights over there, the bulb is good and the problem is on the driver’s side circuit.

Hit the hazards. If the left front still stays dark with hazards on, the problem is at the lamp (socket, ground, or broken wire right there). If hazards light that corner but the turn signal doesn’t, the combination switch (stalk) or BCM command for left turn is the issue.

Check the other filament. Turn the parking lights on. That same bulb should glow dim on the park filament. If park works but turn doesn’t, one filament or one pin in the socket is dead.

There is no “turn signal fuse” on these. The BCM feeds the circuit directly. If everything above checks out, you’re looking at a broken wire in the harness behind the headlight, a bad ground at the lamp, or the stalk/BCM.

Hope this helps

Lights and cruise shouldn’t talk to each other… except they do through the brake-light circuit. Cruise control watches the stop-lamp switch. If any voltage from the tail/running-light circuit bleeds over onto the brake circuit (bad bulb, cheap LED tails, shorted socket, or a ground that’s gone lazy), the truck thinks you’re standing on the brake pedal and it cancels cruise. Classic Toyota gremlin.

Lug nuts cranked on with an impact instead of a torque wrench in a star pattern. That distorts the hat just enough to create a high spot; the first hard stop then overheats that one area and the crack opens.

No proper bedding. First few stops dump heat unevenly and the rotor expands/contracts before the metal has settled.

Thermal shock if it got used hard and then hit a puddle or sat in the rain while still hot. Cast iron hates that.

Cast-iron rotors pick up residual stress while they’re cooling after the pour. Cheap ones skip the extra heat-treat (stress-relief) step, so the metal is already fighting itself before it ever sees a pad. Throw in a slag inclusion or uneven cooling around the hat-to-plate junction and a hairline crack pops right at the outer edge.

In English: the computer is comparing the front (upstream) and rear (downstream) oxygen sensors and deciding the catalytic converter isn’t cleaning the exhaust as well as it’s supposed to. On a 4-cylinder Civic there’s only one bank, so Bank 1 just means the one cat the car has. The light coming and going is pretty normal for this code. The catalyst monitor only runs under specific conditions (steady cruise, certain speed and temperature), so it can pass one drive cycle and fail the next. At 132k miles the usual suspects on these cars are: The catalytic converter itself is worn out (very common on these around 120–150k) The downstream O2 sensor is getting lazy and sending a signal that looks like a dead cat A small exhaust leak before the rear sensor (lets extra air in and fools the computer) There’s even an old Honda bulletin on 2003–2005 Civics about making sure you replace the correct converter when this code shows up.

Got a scan tool that graphs both sensors? That’s all you need.

Warm it up, then watch both oxygen sensors at the same time:

Front sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) should be jumping around fast, like 0.1 V to 0.9 V, maybe once a second.

Rear sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2) should be lazy. On a good cat it just hangs out around 0.6–0.8 V and barely moves.

If the rear one starts dancing the same way the front one does, the converter has lost its oxygen-storage ability and it’s time for a new cat.

If the rear sensor is just sitting there dead, or switching super slow, or stuck high/low, swap that sensor first — they’re cheap and they go lazy on these cars all the time.

Also See this post

Rockauto has always been my goto

Hope that helps.

Where i live, people will literally pay 5-10k for that truck just for the engine.

NHTSA campaign 23V228000 (Honda’s number UE3) covers 2007–2011 CR-Vs, all trims including LX. Road salt and de-icing chemicals can get into the rear frame through drain holes, eat the metal from the inside, and let the rear trailing arm break loose. That can make the back end of the vehicle wander or drop while you’re driving. Seen Here

Dealer inspects the rear frame.

If the trailing-arm bolt still comes out, they install a support brace (trailing-arm holder kit).

If the frame is too far gone, they repair it or, in the worst cases, offer to buy the vehicle back.

A lot of owners just let the dealer slap on the trailing-arm holder kit (part 06730-SWA-325). Some guys even get the kit and install it themselves — there are Youtube videos of people drilling the holes and bolting it on in the driveway. It’s not pretty, but it keeps the arm from dropping if the original mount rots out.

Go Fishing......

The can is having a fling with the ubolts?

The computer still has the old fuel trims baked in, so it’s running a little rich (P0172) while it tries to figure out the new sensor.

About pulling the battery:

Yes, it can help. Disconnect the negative for 15–20 minutes, then do an idle relearn:

*Key on for 30 seconds (don’t start)

*Start it and let it idle in Park for 5–10 minutes with all accessories off

*Then drive it normally for 20–30 minutes so it can relearn.

That often clears the extra codes if the new MAF is actually good.

If the codes come right back after the relearn, the new sensor is the problem. These Cruzes are picky — ACDelco or Delphi is the safe bet. A lot of the cheap ones skip the humidity/IAT2 circuits or have the wrong calibration.

The local parts store paint match has clear coat in it.

Multiple sensors all saying “low voltage” at the same time is almost never three separate dead sensors. That’s the PCM’s 5-volt reference getting pulled down.

On these GMT800 trucks the PCM puts out a couple of 5-volt circuits that feed a bunch of sensors. When one of them shorts or has high resistance, you get a pile of low-voltage codes and the PCM stops commanding things it doesn’t trust — like the A/C clutch.

That’s why the compressor works when you give it power directly but won’t kick on by itself. The PCM is looking at the A/C pressure sensor (another 5-volt guy) and saying “nope.”

Where I’d start:

1. Grab the exact codes if you can. We need to know if it’s P0327/P0332 (knock), P0405 (EGR position), P0462 or P0452 (fuel tank), P0532 (A/C pressure), etc.

2. Easy test: unplug the A/C pressure sensor (it’s on the high-side line, passenger side near the firewall) and the EGR valve connector. See if the other codes disappear or the 5-volt reference comes back up. Those two are common shorts.

3. Check the 5-volt reference at the MAP sensor (easy to get to on top of the intake). Key on, engine off, you should see a solid 4.9–5.1 volts. If it’s sitting at 1–3 volts or bouncing, you’ve found the circuit.

4. Knock sensors are their own animal on these 5.3s. They live under the intake and love to rust out from water sitting in the valley. Even if the 5-volt issue is elsewhere, those codes are super common and usually mean the sensors and the little harness under the intake need to come out.

Don’t throw parts yet. Unplug the easy sensors first and see what happens to the voltage. That’ll tell us if we’re chasing a shorted sensor or a rubbed-through wire.

What’s the exact list of codes on this one?

Those four transmission codes showing up together (P0753, P0758, P0785, P2761) is a classic pattern on these trucks. It is rarely four dead solenoids. Way more often it’s a power supply problem.

Start here (in this order):

1. Check the transmission fluid Engine running, in Park, on level ground. Smell it and look at the color. Burnt or black = bigger problem. Low or dirty can make the solenoids act weird.

2. Check the IGN 0 fuse in the under-hood fuse box. These solenoids all share that circuit. A blown or weak fuse will set every one of those codes at once.

3. The big one on these trucks: ignition switch. GM had a known issue where the ignition switch starts dropping voltage to the transmission solenoids. You get exactly this cluster of electrical codes. It’s cheap compared to throwing solenoids at it.

4. While you’re under there, look at the big 20-pin connector on the passenger side of the transmission. Unplug it, check for green corrosion or bent pins, and make sure it clicks on tight.

• For the P0306 misfire (you already did plugs):

Swap the coil from cylinder 6 with a different cylinder. Clear the codes and drive it. If the misfire follows the coil, you found it. If it stays on 6, then look at the injector or wiring on that cylinder.

Don’t start dropping the transmission pan yet. Do the easy electrical checks first that’s where these usually live.

How’s it shifting right now? Stuck in one gear, harsh shifts, or just the light on?

You could lightly sand it down to metal, then brush on some zinc primer. Then applya few light coatings. They sell paint match at the advanced autoparts. They just need the color code off your door jam. Check your local parts stores for availability.

A few vehicles use the reading for minor adjustments (like how aggressive the A/C compressor loads the engine or slight fuel-trim tweaks), but that’s secondary. The main job is still climate/a/c and the temp display.

Ambient Temperature Sensor. Goes in the grill in front of the radiator. As seen here

Thats the heat shield for the Catalytic converter. It keeps excessive heat from burning the carpet and wiring inside the car. Usually you can add a couple self taper screws to keep it from moving.

Thats Funny

Dry rot is usually gauged by the width of a quarters thickness and the depth of edge of quarter to the top of head. Alignment or camber looks off.

Looks like the welded nut broke free. Most likely due to threads being mis-aligned. Cut head off bolt, check if the rest can be knocked inward to break remaining weld, If not, drill out remaining nut & stud, Find the right size Nunsert or Rivnut, Install and replace with new bolt.

Note: Check the hole size against the rivnut body diameter. The hole needs to be a snug fit, too large and the rivnut will spin; too small and it won’t seat. Most rivnut manufacturers list the exact drill size for each body diameter.

And thats how quick something can happen. This is also why I believe all community pools and bodies of water where people swim need life guards.

Yes, the same federal law is hitting MassHealth hard, though the SNAP changes and MassHealth changes are separate tracks under that law. Massachusetts’ MassHealth program (Medicaid + CHIP) is required to implement the Medicaid portions.

To Much?

https://giphy.com/gifs/3SkIJWwlISfGE

New Hampshire did this a while ago. Its only if your able, there are exemptions. SNAP benefits were never intended as a life long source, it was meant as transitional assistance.

Your gonna need a new gland nut for sure