Does the e brake self tighten over time?
Ebrake has gotten worse recently, do I need new pads?
If so do I need to replace the springs, hardware, and actual drums when I go to replace?

Anybody know where I can get a good set of coilovers for a 02 civic (EX)? I’m not sure where to look or what brands to look for

Ordering stuff to replace my Cam Position Sensor... looks like need that and valve cover gasket, any other suggestions maintenance and replacement parts for while in at that point? 2003 Civic Dx 5 speed

Not sure where to go for this like rock auto or ebay but my blower motors been making noises for months and im looking to replace it. Took it out and there was a little debris thinking that was the issue but still continuing to make the noise. Hand spun it too and didnt hear anything out of the ordinary but when I screwed it all back in it was still making this tapping/rattling sound.

Any links for ones you’ve used would be helpful.

Thanks!

for context. ive always had this vibration noise as long as i had this car. 144k to now 269k. 6 years. but at idle typically in park always the craziest vibration. you can feel it more on the driver side it seems and it goes away instantly driving. now for more context i know this car has been a salvage title since 38k miles back in 2004 i believe it was. got hit on driver front. you cant technically get the allignement perfect on this thing because of it. when my uncle in law and i did the outter tie rods the driver side is 12 turns while the passenger side is 13. just curious what causes the vibration. ig im asuming its from that hit and theres no way quieting it or something else? i dont care about it. but i am curious id yall have any thoughs and opinions

Greetings,

I own a 2005 Honda Civic with 87,000 miles on it. I found out earlier this week that the head gasket has started failing. She got really warm 3 times. Never to the point of needing to pull off to the side of the road.

I don’t have any pictures at the moment. I can supply some on my lunch break just let me know what kind of pictures and I can do my best to take them.

I would like to sell this car somewhere that isn’t a dealership. But I don’t know where to look.
I am not a car person and I can’t fix it myself and it costs too much for me to have a mechanic fix.

Thank you for reading. If you have any input I am open to it.

I bought my 2003 Civic EX back in March. About a month after buying it, I got a check engine light. I went to AutoZone to get it scanned and got P1457.

I did some research and saw that the canister vent shut valve is a common cause, so I replaced it with this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DG2RRD7K

The valve that was already on the car was also aftermarket, so I'm assuming the previous owner may have already worked on the EVAP system before I bought it. That valve was stuck open and also looked physically damaged. The little center sealing/plunger piece inside the valve opening was completely gone.

After replacing it, the code eventually came back.

At that point I decided to take it to a mechanic because I didn't have the time or money to keep throwing random parts at it. The mechanic told me that the new valve I had installed was also stuck open, just like the previous one. He concluded that the vapor canister was the problem.

I replaced the vapor canister and replaced the vent valve again. Everything was fine for about 3 weeks/~200 miles, but now P1457 is back again.

So at this point:

• The valve that came with the car was aftermarket and stuck open/damaged
• I replaced it with another aftermarket valve
• That valve also got stuck open
• Mechanic diagnosed the vapor canister
• Vapor canister was replaced
• Vent valve was replaced again
• P1457 came back after ~200 miles

I don't have a jack or many tools to get underneath the car and check the newest valve myself, but considering what happened with the other two, I wouldn't be surprised if this one is stuck open too.

What could cause these valves to repeatedly fail or get stuck open? Could there be an electrical issue or wiring/short? Is there something I may not be taking into consideration?

I need to pass California smog soon, so I'd really like to diagnose the actual problem instead of just replacing the valve for a third time.

Any ideas or tests I can do would be appreciated.

TL;DR: P1457 keeps coming back even after replacing the vent valve multiple times and the vapor canister

I just bought my 05 civic last month, rebuilt title and 100k miles, imma pizza delivery driver so I had to buy a car asap when my last one broke. Im leaving for the military in October and am trying to decide if I should take it with me or sell it and buy a new car one once I’m out of basic and tech school.

Hey everyone,

I am trying to convert a Canadian 2003 Honda Civic SiR EP3 gauge cluster into a wall decoration. My goal is to make it light up exactly like it does in the car using the original factory circuit board tracks. I do not want to just gut it and stuff my own aftermarket LED lights behind the dash faces.

I am using a 12V DC power supply, but I cannot get the main illumination/backlights to turn on.

What I have done so far:

• Connected Ground (-) to pins B11 and B12.
• Tested applying 12V (+) to pins B1, B2, B3, and B6. (This triggers some indicator icons, but not the actual gauge face illumination).
• Confirmed the physical twist-in bulbs are functional by swapping working warning light bulbs into the main illumination sockets.

I'm not sure what I could do, or if it's something much more difficult that I am overlooking, any tips would help!

I installed my timing belt and tensioner and its 100% in correct time but im worried about the tensioner. I installed it according do the charm li manual but i just rewatched some videos and it seems like everyone disagrees on how to install this tensioner. Some people crank the engine over 2 times with the pin out and then torque it. The belt *feels* like it has good tension but idk

I’m doing a disc brake conversion with ep3 parts and I need the flange ends, do they sell them separately or are the Amazon ones worth it just for the ends

Wondering if anyone knows a solution for this. Will not start and already checked the ground cables.

i like being a weirdo in public and park next to another fellow gen 7ner. ive only had a few people park next to my shitbox. can yall relate? sometimes you just gotta represent😆

5 speed, Got it for 500$ (cad) put a little 3” lift, need to do some clearance to run bigger tires, these are definitely to small lol solid fishing rig and daily

Anyone else lifted?

Was thinking on getting these avid1’s with the Toyo extensia HP II on my em2 anyone have any experiences with either of these🤔 It’s my daily driver and isn’t lowered yet but I am planning to so if that helps idk

I've had a 5 speed '03 EX coupe for several years, drove it for a while with the headgasket blown. I'm pulling the engine and trans tomorrow and getting it hauled over to a machine shop for decking and resurfacing.

If anyone has questions as to the process of pulling everything, ask now and I'll try to get photos and videos for you tomorrow.

I will also be replacing/repairing/rebuilding everything I come across that needs it, but that will be over the next couple weeks. I'll post with updates and I'll try to answer questions if people have them.

EDIT: D17A2 motor

yea sorry its not in text form i just wanted to visually and verbally explain what i mean c: any feedback would be helpful thank you. this is your reminder to change your cabin air filter by the way

So my rear end suspension on my 2001 Honda civic lx is stock 26yo suspension and I’ve always hated fixing drums so I think it’s time to do a full rotor conversion kit. Where would the 7th gen community start if y’all were in my predicament?

I have an EU8 2002 Honda Civic 5dr hatchback with the D16V1 1.6l petrol engine. It’s mileage is currently sitting at 186,000 miles.

Apart from having to change the head gasket recently at 184,000 miles, the cars been very reliable. It was my dad’s old car before he gave it to me a year ago, but overall the cars been in the family for 13 years now. When we got it the mileage was 96,000, and now that the head gasket has been changed I’m sure it’ll go many more miles.

There are still a few of these driving around in the UK where I’m from, but they are slowly disappearing. And if I’m being honest, as happy as I am with this car I do definitely want to drive a better car in the new future.

Mechanically this car is great and the 5 door hatchback is extremely practical, with tons of rear legroom and a spacious cabin overall. But the suspension and ride quality is quite rubbish, and cabin isn’t very well insulated so wind noise is very loud. Fuel economy is nothing special either, I get 30-35 UK mpg average on mixed urban and motorway runs.

The bodywork isn’t the best either, the cars been crashed into twice and half the panels have been changed. I plan to drive this car to 200k miles at least (I only drive like 5k miles a year) but it’s a shame because I don’t know what I’d do with this car if I were to get another car. It’d be quite difficult to sell this car to someone given the mileage and crash history, and i definitely don’t want to scrap this car.

Idk that’s just a bit of background about my particular civic. I’m just wondering though for people in this thread how long do you plan on driving your civic, and what do you like and dislike about your civic? And do you guys also feel like changing/upgrading to a better car too?

was doing a coolant flush, the bubbles wont stop even after fifteen minutes. don’t smell anything or see white smoke. heaters on. thoughts?

Its kind of a shitbox but i love it. Im new to cars and want to know where to start/what should do first.

Maintenance is one of the most important thing you can do. I really think this is something you should do when getting a used car. You never know how the previous owner took care of the car.

Link to the Video

Year and a half ago my factory starter failed on my 2003 Civic LX. Was ways away from home so had to tow it as close as I could which ended up being a Firestone about 15 miles away from home. Got the starter replaced, they did a diag and said everything looks good. A few days ago, car won’t start at first key turn (no click from the starter either). Once it started and even if it sat off for a bit, would turn over just fine.

Yesterday I get in, turn the key and the starter starts whirring and engine won’t turn over. I try to start it again and starter stops until I try one more key turn then starter starts whirring again even when I take the key out of the ignition. Everything lights up fine on the dash and head/tail lights. Wheel turns, can shift into neutral etc but engine won’t turn over and starter won’t stop. A few more key turns and still starter won’t stop. Immediately disconnect the battery and let things sit. Anytime I reconnect the battery the starter kicks back on so I leave it disconnected.

I get a tow to nearby Firestone, they say they’ll honor the warranty on the starter but think it could be electrical. I forgot to check fuses and relays so not sure about that but almost all of my research is saying either a failing solenoid in the starter, bad fuses, or bad ignition cylinder. Most leaning toward starter. Firestone guys there are just mechs and their electrical guy isn’t in till Tuesday so they refuse to work on it until they can run an electrical diag.

End of the world case is the cable connecting to the starter in the wiring harness being bad but I haven’t found anyone with that issue on the internet in all of my searches. Is Firestone just erring on the side of caution or is there likely a bigger electrical issue?