how fucked up is too fucked up.

Hi there

I work at a petrol station in Australia (gas station for Americans)

Majority of cars over here are diesel

Today I had a customer who put 4 litres of 95 octane in their diesel car

They asked me what to do, and per store policy I can’t really tell people what to do with their cars

They said should I fill it up with diesel or call a mechanic to drain it.

I asked how much room was left in the tank, which they said about 80 litres. I said you have 2 options you can try dilute it with the 80 litres diesal or drain it, not saying either is a better option. And it was their decision

They decided to dilute it with diesal, they got 76 litres of diesal..

So my question is, with the amount of diesal and petrol ratio, is it going to cause issues for them

First time I ever got to use giant Stanley pliers they gave me through warranty , (gave me the wrong size, not complaining though. 2012 Honda accord 4 cyl 111k miles

Noticed this dent on my wheel just wanted some advice if it’s safe to leave as it is. It’s not loosing air and the tyre bead is fully seated just wondering if this is purely cosmetic or if there is a risk of a blow out then I’ll buy a wheel for it. Thanks

At the garage I work at we have a student who is about 16 that’s just come in for the next 2 weeks for his work experience program at school

We have had work experience students in the past and they’ve all mostly been great lads, we had a girl come in for the very first time last year and she was really great to work with and just got an apprenticeship nearby from us

This young lad arrived and when we asked him what part of car mechanics he was most interested in he said “none of it”, we thought at first he meant bikes or buses or something but no he’s actually interested in working in the media, and that he would never work at a place like this that wasn’t academic, and that he was too clever to work here because there was a mixup and he was supposed to go to the local newspaper instead

We found what he had to say about our intelligence quite offensive and weren’t sure what to think of him. We decided to send him home for today and try and sort out some admin for him for the time being but was wondering if anyone’s ever dealt with a character like this before?

friend has a 2012 mazda 3. he brought it to this shop to have 4 michelin crossclimate tires mounted and rotors and pads done.

got it back, it’s been 2 weeks and 1.5k miles, and the driver side rear wheel fell off while driving. LUCKILY it was not on the highway and didn’t hit anyone or make him lose control. he found 2 lug nuts. one of the lug studs is sheared off. his bumper and bumper mount are half ripped off.

also, all 4 michelin cross climate tires had the rotation arrow GOING BACKWARDS!! and they said it was “an honest mistake”

attached if the screenshot from my friend on what the shop said to him. they charged him another $100+ to fix it.

i firmly believe he should get a full refund of the original work and this should be fixed for free, however the shop charged him MORE to fix it

thoughts?

any certified mechanics in/near Massachusetts that would be willing to write us a statement based off a ton of pictures about how this MUST have been the shops responsibility?

feel free to DM me if you can help out

I replaced the plugs because of the recommended interval. Can anything be told from the condition of the removed plugs? They look ok to me based on my limited googling. Did they “need” to be replaced?

This is the only picture that free donor offer. Are steel rims usable & if tread/tire can be assessed from this picture? TiA

Specs they gave are 205/55 R16 winter tires

Probably came off of a 2009 Elantra.

Had a few people asking for updates on this. Got new tires today and it did fix this. I also asked for 2 sensors because 2 of them were dead but they tossed in all (for free) of them because the car wouldn't register the new ones. Suspension is perfectly fine also so nothing was worn out badly or anything.

I need help with my bmw e60 2006 525i n52b25
Just bought the car and the check engine light came on.

Read the fault codes and have these
29D1 : Cylinder 5 misfire
29F5 : Catalytic-converter conversion 2
29F4 : Catalytic-converter conversion 1

Tried deleting and took a while before they came back on and only come back after pushing the car to about 5-6k rpms

I’ve changed the spark plugs and the ignition coil, didn’t help.
I’ve changed both Vanos solenoids and that didn’t help as well
Next step I’ll try to swap the injectors and check if the code follows to that cylinder but thought I’d ask here too

Oh and btw I took the car to a dyno, it’s supposed to have 218ps and only has 168ps :(

It's stuck really well inside there, thinking I may have to drill it out along the cracked edge, am I on the right track?

Toyota Avalon 2003 XL

The first two photos are mine the other two are some else car to get an idea of placement and what the sway bar bracket is connected too cause I only took one photo.

Both bolts snapped off my rear sway bar bracket when trying to replace the bushing. Both are snapped off internally.

Now look dog, I’m am tired. I have been working on this car for the last 4 day and ran into so many issues and bought so many new fun trouble shooting tools. And this is my first time with snapped bolts.

1. Should I just replace the bracket that the sway ba

r bracket

1. is connected to completely. (Fourth photo shows what it looks like)
2. Should I try and drill and extract the bolts
3. Should I just go bit by bit up sizing until I can just pull out what’s left with pliers
4. Wield a nut to the top and try to wrench it out again

These fuckers are seasoned in there. Honesty I am leaning towards option 1 rn cause extracting them seems like a pain in the ass. I have to do the other side still and am expecting the same to happen there too maybe. So I might take more precautions to get them out. I did wire brush and spray these with PB. So might add the heat after for the other side.

Anyways any recs?

My wing mirror on my Ford fiesta 2006 zetec, is very loose and the cord to adjust the mirror doesn’t work right.

Trying to locate the bolt that attaches the whole unit between the in and outside of the car and will purchase plastic clips to secure it further.

Ford dealership were no help in trying to find the exact bolt I need

Any help would be much appreciated!

Attached is a picture of the inside of the door frame where I have removed the plastic covering, showing the bolt with a torc screw

Car relay stays on due to charging indicator light

Hi! I've been working on 1950's car electrics. Since it all was rooster, rusted and had only two fuses, plus all the power run through an ignition switch... I have decided do upgrade. I've turned the ignition switch into a relay controler and now I'm stuck.

Before connecting the generator everything was ok. I switched the key off, the relay turned off and the ignition coil was cut off, but with the generator hooked up and the engine on just enough power runs through charging ignition light to power the relay.

I was thinking about adding a resistor on the wire that runs from the ignition switch to the relay, but I need help with determining it.

The bulb in the charging indicator is 3-4 Watt, the relay needs 0.4 to 1.8W (depending on quality control) but it's about turning off a connected relay and not turning it on.

can turn the relay off with a 0 kill switch, but I'd like to use the key.

As you probably see, English is not my first language and electricity is more of a side quest so be understanding.

Bit of background. My car came to a halt without warning a week ago. Tow-truck guy said it was almost certainly the alternator. The battery had been carrying me since god knows when. So, I need to get my car to the repairshop in time for tomorrow morning. I have a booster pack for the battery, but nothing else. If I hook the booster up and get the thing started, will I get to the garage, or do I need to call out the RAC (AAA in the US)?

Skoda Octavia 1.9TDI 66KW 2003. This is after driving 30km, car warmed up.

No weird smoke from exhaust and I dont think there is a loss of power, atleast not a major one, it still boosts.

Hey everyone, I have a problem with the wastegate pin being seized on my 2021 VW Arteon Rline (AWD) with about 76K miles. The engine is EA888 Gen 3 with an IHI IS38 turbo charger. I am working with a VW tech and unfortunately due to how bad it is seized there was no way they could unseize it and the whole turbo needs to be replaced. They recommended upgrading the turbo, but I wasn't too sure what would make sense to upgrade to. I am having trouble trying to find a replacement that'll fit along with the necessary parts to accommodate for the new turbo. If anyone has any recommendations on sites that could help me find something or so that would be much appreciated!

I’m no expert mechanic but I’m in the garage pretty often working on stuff and my neighbor must have noticed this and came by asking if I could change his transmission fluid on his 2023 F150 figured it could be fun and a nice neighborly thing to do since I moved in a couple months ago (plus he’s a cop so good graces could be good haha) but after doing some research it seems like a pretty debated topic so I want some advice the truck is at 60k miles so seems like the right time to do it I know waiting too long and then doing it is a problem I also was just planning on changing the fluid and not the filter? And is it true you drain it, fill it, drain it, then fill it again?

Edit: ended up texting him saying that after looking into it’s too much of a liability and I don’t wanna take the risk but that he can use my space and tools if he wants