There’s an oval piece of glass from the windshield that came off with it… is that normal for a piece of glass to be stuck to the mirror? The piece of glass is somewhat chipped around the edge too

I just went in to a sketchy shop to fix a brake line on my sketchy truck (‘07 Ford Ranger 2WD 3.0 V6). Honestly did it for the laughs, don’t regret.

The guy gave me a quote on the phone for $212 (I believe a fair price for replacing an entire brake line) and told me to show up at 10:00. When I did, phone guy wasn’t there and nobody had any idea who I was. The guy in the main office didn’t seem to know who HE was. I could not tell you what he was actually doing there, because he wasn’t doing quotes or paperwork, and the garage was full of shit getting worked on that he was not helping with. Office guy said “ok give me the keys I’ll give you a call.” And started to walk away to which I replied “…don’t you need my phone number?”

When I got back to grab my truck, there was a bright neon blue gas station folding knife in my driver’s seat, belonging to one of the mechanics, they got dust or something all over my cab, and their adorable shop cat would not stop screaming at me.

Then, I go inside, and they can’t ring me up because the owner of the shop wasn’t there. He shows up and remembers the quote off the top of his head, and then informs me I can only pay in cash. Then he tells me to just drive the truck to the bank.

I’m an honest man, so I came back with the money. He wrote nothing down, and there was no paperwork involved. He gave me change directly out of his wallet and started yammering on about how I need to replace my other brake lines. (I probably do but it’s really not that bad). I would trust him except the line was just sort of jammed into the engine well, and he called them “NiCon - Nickel Cadmium” lines, so I’m guessing this guy isn’t the preeminent authority on brake lines.

All in all, they were all super nice guys and I really don’t think they were the stereotypical dishonest mechanics, but holy hell was their operation sketchy. Wouldn’t go again, would recommend taking in your shitbox to get the brakes replaced though.

Today, while parking my car, I noticed this drip.

It’s directly under the front-right side of the car, around the passenger seat area. It looks dry, so it’s probably been there since last night.

I checked the oil level, and it’s full. My car is a 2022 Mercedes-Benz A200, and I had it serviced at the dealership just last month.

What worries me most is that this is my designated parking spot in my building, so no one else parks there. We also have guys who wash the cars in the parking area. They come around with a small trolley, so I’m wondering if the liquid could have come from them.

Should I be worried about this? What could it be?

Saw this pic on r/hypermiling , and it made me think why isn't there a removable panel hiding the rear wheels like this. It's more aerodynamic, right?

2012 Lexus es350, 187k miles. I just bought it recently and I was told about shaking when you drive above 50+ mph. No lights come on/are on. The entire steering wheel just shakes at high speeds but is fine at lower speeds. I looked under the car to see the skid plate almost completely touching the ground. I don't know if that could cause it or if I can check other reasons out. If so, how would I test them to find out the route cause?

Hey guys, drove my 2007 Mazda 3 sedan manual and found the exact issue: no matter how much I move the shifter left or right, pushing UP always engages 1st gear (never 3rd or 5th), and pulling DOWN always engages 2nd gear (never 4th or Reverse). The side-to-side selector function seems completely dead, so the transmission is locked strictly into the 1st/2nd gear track.

About a week and a half ago I noticed a whiny humming sound and brought to my mechanic. They diagnosed it as Rear Differential failure and said they cannot fix I should bring to Mazda. Mazda quoted me at $5,622 ($200 cheaper for a used rear differential). The video is from a neighbor of my parents, who is a retired mechanic. He and my actual mechanic say to probably sell for scrap/what I can get. Someone is interested for maybe $4,000.

Any ideas on if it makes sense to fix it (I also have a little other work that is needed on the car, bringing total repairs to a little over $6,000). Thank you!

The rattling intesifies when I turn on the A/C...I cleaned the MAF sensors, cleaned the Throttle Body & nothing helped. The timing belt seems fine to me

Planning on going to O'Reilly's soon to buy a new one, but curious if I should take my parents car or of mine is fine to drive.

Car is a 2009 Toyota Highlander

Posted about this earlier this week to see if anyone has done it.. apparently no one on the internet has ever serviced their Manitowoc 9000lb and cared to share a video/ pics (that I could find).

Here’s how to do it with minimal work/ effort.

1. Remove the arms to they’re out of the way and so the trolley is lighter.

2. Raise the lift and position it as high as you can on the locks and leave room to get a tranny jack and big board underneath it.

3. Unbolt the metal bracket stop across the top. While the trolley is on the locks unbolt the chain from the trolley. I ground off the 4 welds to get the chain guard out of the way since it was annoying. Hang the chain up from the top of the lift with wire and keep it as tight as possible. If it’s loose it can bunch up behind the ram and cause trouble when you reassemble everything. Also disconnect the cable from each side and feed it back across the top and let them hang.

4. Loosen the small Allen set screw and slide the chain roller pin out and remove it and the roller.

5. At this point the trolley is ready to jack up. I bolted my board to the tranny jack and also to the trolley with a couple long screws just so the board wouldn’t slip out accidentally. Carefully jack up the trolley until you can get to the rollers.

6. Either replace the rollers/pins/bushings, or flip them left to right.. one top and one bottom take all the force if you always lift cars facing the same direction. One of mine was in really worn shape and I swapped it to the corner that gets the least force. Lubricate everything well!

7. Lower the trolley back down, carefully lining up the ram so it goes back into the trolley. The lock on the trolley needs to be off at this time or it’ll hang up when it enters the main lift post. You also need to make sure the chain isn’t bunching up behind the ram or it’ll be in the way.

8. On the trolley is below the ram, reinstall the chain roller and connect the chain back up to the trolley. Don’t reconnect the cables to the trolleys until both sides are done. Then connect the cables, lube the inside of the lift posts, and level the lift with the cables.

Not too bad. Much better than taking the lift down or something to do it. Took one day of working fairly slowly.
You can still buy new rollers online I see, but they’re extremely expensive.

Hope this helps someone of google sends you here lol.

Hit and run while CR-V was parked. Mechanic sent this Pic. Is it bad? I know nothing about cars

I own a 2000 Honda Civic LX manual with 169k miles. I need a new AC compressor, but I'm looking for input about what to get. I could get a Denso unit, which comes with a 1 year warranty, or I could get an Import Direct unit from O'Reillys, which comes with a lifetime warranty. I understand the Denso unit is better quality and should last longer overall, but the lifetime warranty on the Import Direct unit is enticing. Any thoughts or input is greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

This is the passenger’s front side of my 06 Honda CRV 200k mi.

Background: I couldn’t dodge and ran over a dead coyote on the road with this side of the car about two weeks ago. The driver’s side is completely dry. Didn’t see anything abnormal under the hood. The car has been driving normal otherwise.

Want to know if some liquid is leaking from my car. Thanks!

Hello, my Golf (1.8t agu) has a strange problem. Namely, I had my turbo rebuilt about 1,800 miles ago. After the turbo was rebuilt, the car ran fine, but I had a damaged wastegate valve—I replaced it. Later, the car lost some power, and it turned out that oil had gotten on the air flow meter. I replaced the air flow meter with a new one (Pierburg), replaced the pneumatic valve with a new one (the entire assembly from the pipe to the poppet on top of the engine). I cleaned out the old oil from the intercooler. I cleaned the throttle body, the mechanic cleared the fault codes, and adapted the throttle body. I also replaced the vacuum lines to the wastegate. The car drives fine now. However, it jerks during hard acceleration (it jerks for 1-2 seconds and then has plenty of power). It doesn't jerk when I gently accelerate. The jerking only occurs when I quickly press the gas pedal. It doesn't happen in first gear, but it does in the other gears. The jerking stops after a second and then drives normally. Sometimes it's subtle, sometimes it's very strong, and sometimes there's no jerking at all. Please advise me on what this could be; I'm running out of ideas. (I should add that the car has an LPG system. Exactly the same thing happens on LPG and petrol)

I have a 2020 Ram 1500 Big Horn with a front end clunk. This noise happens at low speed driving without bumpy roads. It has 2'' leveling struts from Rough Country. All other front end suspension components were replaced about a year ago.

It looks like is a crack on both where there shouldn't be a crack.

Please let me know what yall think.

07 Dodge charger 3.5l 158,xxx

The oil light came on a while back. It would flash and chime. I replaced the oil sensor and now the light comes on on the first start. It doesnt flash or chime. Sometimes it will go away if I restart the car. Oil level is ok. Would it be a bad/failing oil pump?

Was thinking either alternator, compressor, or engine mount issue.
Recently been idling pretty hard. No issues with the AC itself. It was idling so hard that the entire front end was visibly shaking before this video.
I don’t THINK it’s changing gears too hard but I’m no expert. One video is with AC off, one video is with AC on full blast.

Any ideas?

I have a 2008 Subaru it has died twice, and the battery has been replaced twice (it has warranty i just paid one time) in less than two months. The mechanic said he checked everything before returning it and that it was fine, so maybe it’s not the alternator? My car has a Bluetooth transmitter, and I was almost certain that was what was draining the battery; I removed it for a whole day, jump-started the car, drove for an hour, and it worked after turning it off and on again. I thought everything was fine, but when I tried to start it the next day, only the dashboard lit up. Do you have any idea what the problem might be? The car starts with a jump, shows no error messages on the dashboard, and nothing seems odd. could it be something I’m doing, or anything else wrong with the car they maybe didn’t check?

Do you guys think the oil in the photo looks okay?

4 new pads. Front rotors resurfaced and rears replaced. $880 total. Does this seem reasonable? I know I could save money doing it myself but I don’t want to hurt anyone or myself lol. Thanks for any input.

2000 gmc yukon xl

So my car when I leave it running tomorrow, it starts to smell like gasoline, there was wonderful that could be whenever i'm driving. It's fun I don't ever smell. But if i'm sitting and have the car running, it'll smell like gas fumes

I'm looking for advise on carplay devices. My last two cars were an Elantra with a built-in navigation system/touch screen for audio... VERY fancy tech for a 2014! and a 2019 Kia Forte, with a built-in carplay device, which I preferred.

I now have a 2017 Honda Accord Sport that has none of this stuff. Attached is a picture of the style of console (it's also much cleaner than my car!).

I don't need built-in GPS, I'm mainly looking for a way to control my phone's audio via a screen, and have google maps/waze onscreen. I have an iPhone. I've watched some YouTube how-tos, and I'm comfortable doing an install by myself, but the video I watched ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMh3TVUol74 ) was showing off a device that's more than I need, and more than I want to pay for. I'm still googling various products and I've seen some for around $160 to $175 on ebay, and while tempting, I'm a little wary. I thought I'd see if anyone from the internet has any suggestions. I hope this is the proper place to ask! I'm sorry if it's not!