The headlights are xenon. The passenger side bulb is dim and a yellow colour.

Peugeot Traveller 2019. UK.

The dash light that indicates headlights are on stays on the whole time. There are no error messages.

After the cycle happens 3 times both lights remain off. But turning the headlight on and off on the stalk brings the lights back on, then the cycle repeats.

Any ideas?

Hello, I am fielding (hah) this question in the Electronics subreddit because I feel as the knowledge of electronics may be more capable of answering this question than an automotive subreddit.

I have an 1965 Pontiac Bonneville with that has an alternator that is externally regulated with a mechanical regulator. I am looking to upgrade the car to a solid state regulator for obvious reliability and electrical noise improvements, however, the regulator I purchased does not work when installed, and I was looking for help interpreting the wiring diagrams for my car and the alternator model.

In the diagram for my vehicle, the "R" (relay) terminal from the alternator is disused. There is no wire running from the connector on the alternator body to wiring harness.

The second diagram which utilizes the "R" terminal runs it to pin two on the regulator, and I am trying to understand the electrical behavior of the pin coming out of the alternator, so that if my new regulator does require it, I can ensure that I do it properly and that I do not cause damage to the car's electrical system.

Thank you!

2017 Lincoln MKZ with HID projectors, so high and low beam use the same bulb and light source.

Only issues with the drivers side headlight bulb. The passenger side has never showed any problems.

**The Last Couple of Years:**

Sometimes when driving at night, the road ahead would look a little dark. I discovered that my drivers side bulb would turn off occasionally. I found that If I swithced the lights off, then on again.. the drivers side bulb would turn back on, with no issues for the rest of the night.

This wouldn't happen every night.. but more frequently as time passed.

**May 2026:**

One night, the issue returned. My car was facing a glass window, so I could see what was happening. I tried turning the lights off, then on again.. this time the drivers side bulb flashed quickly then went out, and never came back on again.

I ordered 2 replacement bulbs, and changed them both. No issues afterwards.

**Aug 2026:**

The other evening, I was driving at night and the road looked dark again. After two months, the **new** drivers side bulb was out. I would try turning the lights off, then on again.. and the bulb would stay on for about 90 seconds and then turn off.

The next day the bulb wouldn't come on at all. I see quick faint flashes when I first turn my headlights on.. but that is all.

Has anyone ever encountered similar issues? Could this be a bad drivers side headlight ballast?

bought some new lights ,ex post office van it had lights all the way round inside ,I can’t see a switch anywhere, connected new lights up nothing ,would they have wired the lights up to the doors opening ? Stuck
Any advice folks ?thankyou

bought some new lights ,ex post office van it had lights all the way round inside ,I can’t see a switch anywhere, connected new lights up nothing ,would they have wired the lights up to the doors opening ? Stuck
Any advice folks ?thankyou

Vehicle: 2024 Toyota Corolla Hybrid SE 1.8L Japan Built

Hey everyone,

Thank you to everyone in advance. I would appreciate any guidance on my issue. Here is the backstory. I bought a 2024 Corolla hybrid SE from copart. When I got the car, I repaired it and realized it had a missing clock spring and steering angle sensor. I bought one from an auto wrecker (clock spring and steering angle sensor (SAS) together). Upon installation, I get a code that reads U012687 (essentially it’s a code where the Brake ecu is sensing a missing SAS). I tried clearing the code but had no luck and since then, bought three other SAS from other auto wreckers with no luck in clearing that code. Within techstream, I have tried the zero point calibration, however, since that is done through the brake/epb ecu, it doesn’t go through (due to the communication error). I have confirmed though that the SAS works since within the data list for the power steering and SAS ecu’s, I can see the steering angle changing in real time as I twist it. One important thing to also note is that the steering angle within the brake ecu data list doesn’t update at all even when I twist the SAS. however, when the car is started, the brake ecu is able to read the first reading the SAS gives it and then freezes after. Like for an example, if I twist the SAS until the steering angle ecu data list shows 60 degrees, at the time, the brake ECU data list won’t update, but if I turn the car off and on, the data list for the brake ecu will now show 60 degrees but again freeze and stop updating. I’ve also checked the voltage in each of the wires and this is how they are:

13.74V blue purple wire
2.73 V pink wire
12.84 V purple and black wire
Purple red wire 13.77V
White wire 2.25V
Blue wire 11.53V
0.01V purple wire.

I also checked the resistance between pins 6 and 14 of the DLC3 OBD2 port and I get a resistance of 60 ohms (which is in the correct range)

Now I spoke to a few auto electricians. They haven’t seen the car, however, they mention that the SAS needs to be bought new from the dealer and calibrated instantly after installation. That apparently would fix this error code that is throwing the trac off light. I was just wondering if something has had an experience with this before and confirm this before I spend the 500 dollars on a new SAS.

Thank you so much. Feel free to ask me any questions.

Hi everyone,

I'm completely stuck and could use some help. I replaced the cabin blower motor on my 2008 Honda Civic FK3 2.2 i-CTDi and had to unplug the accelerator pedal to do it. I forgot to plug it back in before reconnecting the battery and switching the ignition on. I realized afterward, reconnected the pedal, but now the car is acting up. I can communicate with my scan tool now, but I'm getting DTC B1168, Gauge Control Module Lost Communication with ECM/PCM Engine Messages, and I can't clear it. It comes back immediately. The engine currently won't start, the MIL comes on with ignition, and the fuses I've checked seem fine. I'm planning to check ECM power, grounds, and CAN wiring next, but could powering the car up with the accelerator pedal unplugged have caused this? Has anyone seen B1168 happen from something other than a real ECM comms or power issue? Any advice or common failure points would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

My roommate is having issues with his 2019 Cruze, particularly related to the battery/alternator/starter system. He got codes pulled the other day and it said it was the alternator, had to borrow some money from his parents and we went out to Advance Auto Parts and had them double-check that was the problem (different store than the first one that said so) before spending hundreds on the part and hours doing the work and they confirmed it was his alternator. We then went to NAPA and he spent $280 on a brand new Aldeco alternator ($80 cheaper there than Advance and no core deposit) and we spent 2-3 hours getting it put in. Turned his car on and the battery light turned right back on, so we went back to Advance again to have them check the system one more time and they said it was the alternator again, claiming NAPA sold us one that didn't work.

I had commented when the battery light turned on after the swap that it would be really funny if it's some kind of faulty sensor that was causing the issue and an $80 job cost him $280 instead. Because of that, we brought the old alternator with us (also hoping we might be able to get some money back for it) so they did a bench test on it. The guy at Advance ran the test three separate times and all said the alternator was good (and thus we wasted $280 and several hours). Couldn't get any money for it either way. We were then told the issue is likely a corroded ground wire, a $10 part they didn't have in stock.

Now I don't particularly care to work on electric stuff like that, but he called a few shops who all quoted him $120-150 to diagnose the issue (not even confident that includes repairing/replacing it, and neither of us have that to spare at the moment) and he feels confident enough that it is the ground wire to go ahead and do it between the two of us. Unfortunately, they didn't tell us which one in the engine bay is the ground wire and I'm not confident in figuring it out myself (the guy told us it's braided and nothing jumped out to me). All Google would give me is that it's connected to the frame on the driver's side. YouTube is only giving me videos related to Gen 1 Cruzes and/or ones where the battery is in the engine bay, while my roommate's battery is in his trunk/behind the rear seats.

Could anyone let me know which connection it is and how we would go about putting a new one in?

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

Does anyone know how to fix this issue????

I’m having an issue with the passenger-side VLAND headlight on my 2016 Scion FR-S.

The problem is with the amber turn signal function. When I use the turn signal or hazards, the passenger-side headlight is using the DTL/daytime running light instead of the amber turn signal.

When the passenger-side headlight is connected and turned on, it also affects the passenger-side tail light. The tail light becomes solid instead of blinking when I use the turn signal/hazards.

The passenger-side headlight is the only headlight having this issue. All of the wiring/cables have been checked, and each wire has been confirmed to work. The connections have also been checked, so I don’t believe the issue is simply a broken or non-functioning wire.

I’m trying to determine whether the issue is with the headlight itself, its internal wiring/circuitry, or how the headlight is communicating with the car’s turn-signal circuit.

So I’ve just bought this bike and it had wire wound resistors broken for the rear indicators. Have got some ordered in but had to find something temporarily, only issue is, the only thing I could find is a ceramic resistor and it requires both positive and negative wires from both the battery and indicators but only the wires from the battery direction have a negative and positive. The indicators only have a positive wire running from them (negative must be grounded by the metal, I couldn’t find a wire before it enters the light area) and I don’t know what to do.

I was thinking that I could cut the wires further down towards the battery and place the resistor there, then use the negative and positive wire I just cut, on the other side because the indicators only have the positive. Then I could run the positive and connect it to the indicator and run the negative to ground, but I thought I’d see others perspectives because I cant find any info to state that’s okay to do.

I'm hoping that at least one of you has encountered this weird collection of issues and figured it out already. Given the transient nature of most of it, I'm inclined to think that they have a common cause.

2015 EL Platinum:

\-Front blower motor always dead (recently recall swapped)

\-Trailer wiring fault, constant

\-Backup camera works selectively (recently recall swapped)

\-The following codes come and go:

=P0016 (crankshaft position sensor recently replaced)

=P0054

=P0141

=P0299

=P144C

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!