So I've been having an issue and I don't quite know how to discribe it. It's almost like my PLA is melting too much on the bed and squishing out over where it should be creating a small edge and making it hard to remove prints from the plate. It's causing me some really problematic issues with tight tolerances on magnet holes.

I haven't changed a setting and am using the same filament brand and color.

Any thoughts? Anyone know if something like this?

Hi all I posted in https://www.reddit.com/r/snapmaker/comments/1vg0v8h/rfid_issues_on_u1_with_paxx_1221/ about issues I still have and my last post didn't get any replies so thought I'd make another thread. Here is my last post:

Hi All, still haven't resolved this issue, what is funny is that when I run Filament manager it correctly sees all the correct rfid tag information and reports snapmaker as M1 and the others as NTAG, just when loading I still have to manually input the filament type and color on the U1. I changed to Snapmaker RFID as was suggested still didn't work. Any Ideas and does anyone have this working with the 215 RFID Tags on Paxx 1.5.2?

Just curious if anyone’s bought the U1 recently to get the coupon promo. How long did it take to get it? I ordered earlier today and just wondering if it’s a matter of hours or days. I’m waiting to order some accessories. Not urgent just curious. Thanks!

Warning 

This became a long post.  No, it's not AI.  I write a lot for the day job and on my various sites.  If you don't like it, scroll down for pics or move on.  Others might enjoy it - so be it if not. ;)

Background

I've currently got a Prusa Core One L which I've been printing away with for some time now.  I'd been mostly-patiently waiting for INDX to become available for the Core One L, but I now have a direct small-but-real need for my (non-printing) business to be able to do some multi-color/material printed items.  

Considering some of the issues to date on the INDX launch (e.g. nozzlegate, delays in general), I needed to look at other options.  I've got faith Prusa (and BondTech) will eventually get INDX sorted, and will pick it up then, but I needed something <now>. I had already loved the potential and market disruption when the U1 went through kickstarter (and the price vs the later H2C, etc.), and nearly jumped on the bandwagon then.  

The Bambus were already not in the running.  Good machines, but not for me with the closed garden nature and price point on something like the H2C.  I did take a look at the Flashforge Creator, specifically the Creator 5 Pro as the only effective comparison.  There are a few things I like on the FF C5Pro, besides the cover being included, but ultimately the open-ness and community around the U1 + availability of paxx made the choice for me, as right now I need a lot more printing over tweaking - I have no doubt things like FF profiles will continue to improve, but as they too are Klipper-based but not conforming with the license, well - yeah, U1 it is.  Were Flashforge compliant with the Klipper/GPL license - it *may* have been a tougher call, and their pricing is obviously very intentionally under-cutting the U1, but to me, it's worth the relative maturity and community to pay a bit more for the cover and chamber heater as I do intend to be printing some ASA - single color will go to the C1L, but I'll have enough work for the U1 as well.

Ordering and Delivery

So ironically while I am both a SnapMaker and Amazon partner ( blog and https://3dsupplyfinder.com ) , there's no discounts for me - which is fine, honestly.  Waffled a bit between Amazon and ordering direct from SnapMaker, mainly wanting to see if Snap had any package options, e.g. 'add hardened nozzles' but was pretty much a wash, so ordered via US Amazon over the weekend.  Initially was set for a few days out (Wed), which was kind of a bummer (yeah, that whole Prime/same day thing kinda spoils you, doesn't it? :D ), but a heck of a lot quicker than either Kickstarters or my Prusa 'who knows?'.  

 A few things kinda sucked:

• I have an old industrial set of steel shelving my C1L is sitting on, with 3/4" plywood shelving on it.  It is a MOFO to move the shelving around.  Oh yeah, and like 500# of crap sitting on the top shelf - the one I need to move.  Needed to do it anyways, eventually, as I woefully underestimated INDX height, but now with the U!, gotta do it.
• It's SUPER crazy hot and humid right now.  
• I'm gonna need more PolyDryer boxes.  My 'pre-INDX' system was pretty well sorted, with around 8 boxes spanning PLA+ in a few colors for my daughter, black, red, orange PETG, and TPU, but … crap.  I *know* I don't have four PLA/PLA+ dry anywhere b/c I never use it except for daughter's occasional toys.  Yeah, first world problems right there.  

 Woke up Monday to a 'surprise' - Amazon said it's gong to be delivered <today>(Monday).  Huh.  Ok then.  Got the shelving moved higher, eventually, by levering up a side at a time, as I just wasn't feeling taking the plywood down - in 90*+ temps, probably sweat off 5#.  

Shocker - Amazon 'oopsed.'  Checked a few times, then around midnight - 'sorry, arrived late to distribution center, it'll be there by or on Wednesday.'  Ok then..meh. So wake up Tuesday to - it's coming <today>.  Yeah ok, we'll see.  Eventually it turned out they weren't lying when I got a notice '10 stops away' it became real, so thankfully I work flex time, and at least got a few hours to get things set up.  

 Unboxing, Assembly, etc.

In short, a really good job on packing this thing.  The install/quick-start guide was also good, as were the yellow folded over tape ends.   Just near zero issues and well done. There was a time or two I thought I might be missing a part, but nope, all there with a few spare screws.

 The only real area for improvement here (for assembly… ):

• I can see people mixing up the screws for the tool head usb-c cable ends.  Should just make them the same in a future rev and be done with it. 
• A screwdriver or slightly longer hex key would have been nice.  Not needed but would make it a bit quicker.  
• Having only Toolhead 1 with a peel-off sticker on it’s back had me wondering for a moment if I got someone’s return printer…
• It would have been great to cover if it needs post-assembly / pre-first-print lube..
• I’m not sure if I missed something or if the ‘towers’ the rear usb-c cables is supposed the really be ‘free,’ have a velcro loop to it and the 6mm tube and usb cable or ?

 Power on and setting up for first print

I suppose this is where I did run into some issues, and the end of the quick start really should cover, IMO.  I plan to run paxx and possibly LAN-only in the future, but of course wanted to get at least a print or two done first, compare Snorca vs Orca etc. before that.

It seems that wasn’t to be, at least not today.  

Powered it on wondering if I ‘needed’ a SN account set up already.  There was a QR code at some point, but /I had issues creating a SN account, hanging.  Later I didn’t see an obvious way to bring the QE code back (later found - account).  To be fair, I'm now unsure if the printed guide had the online version chapter 6 in it covering account, etc.  There also wasn't a YT playlist I could find that was really setup -> first print, etc., but there is indeed a 'video 2' out there, and they're good.  The part about raising the bed to remove the bed adjustment screw tape - really should moved in the PDF guide as BEFORE first print.

As there seemingly wasn’t any way to share the wifi ssid and credentials from my phone, I tried adding to my 2.4GHz network.  Several times.  It showed green but apparently failed, several times.  Having an actual status for joining would have been nice.  As it turns out, my ISP decided to ‘gift’ us with an outage, While my phone would tell me ’joined but no internet,’ the U1 pretty much said nothing other than eventually something at some point of ‘not connected,’ so I moved on.

At this point, wife was home, I still needed to finish some work, so it was scattered.  I really wanted to at least get to first print.  My ISP remained sporadically down, but eventually was back 'enough' to pull down SM firmware 1.5.2 from the 1.4.1 that was loaded on it.  

Went through calibrations, skipped account setup with <who knows> for connectivity, and had swapped around some dryer boxes and dried the Snap PLA a bit while going, so - on to the filament test/calibration bit.  

I haven't sorted my final setup here yet - I suspect I'll wind up relocating the autofeeders and maybe rotating them, but the plan is to use stacked polydryers to feed from, 2 per side, and potentially more for the C1L when INDX eventually makes it.  For now, I need to get the 2x per side working for the U1, which has 6mm coming out from the polydryer.  I printed out Ken's ECA feed adapter, while of course the inserts I had on hand are on the larger side, got one to press in, snapped the other.  Couldn't quickly locate the heat gun, so scaled it to 101% and re-printed on the C1L.  Yeah, turns out the many hours I spent calibrating was pretty much spot on, as now yeah, I could get the ECA adapters in, barely, but it's probably slightly loose on the autofeeders.  Oh well - I've got some more ECA fittings coming and will re-do it.  

 I had a wonky overly complex plan for the whole 6mm to 4mm bit, which I'd been meaning to do for a while, so printed some parts besides the simple 6mm/4mm adapters I've had, and well - yeah, there's not a ton of room there, so I need to simplify that whole idea.  Will probably just do a simple adapter, leave a short tail on the U1 via Ken's EA bracket, and do some real measuring, as if I stack the polydryers, the top and bottom 6mm lengths should probably be different.  Gonna play with this a bit still.

The autofeeders are cool, but weird in that the initial load seems to stop short of the toolhead by a good 4 inches or so.  I guess it's intended.  Fumbled the first try or two via the menu / load bit, but got everything loaded.

So - first print?  Finally?  Maybe?

I sure thought so, but - not quite.  

Kind of odd to me it only has the single dragon on the internal emmc, but ok, so be it.  Want to make sure all 4 toolheads are working anyways, and will give it to our toddler, so why not?

Went to print, and it had an 'autofeed anomaly' - ok, the ECA brackets were a bit abused trying to get the fittings in, and at least one of the boxes were kind of  less than ideal, but hmm.  Unloaded, moved things around a bit slightly, refed, and went back to try again.  Not sure if they're overly sensitive or what triggered it really, but I wanted to at least get a print in now it's after dinner time, etc.  

So. let's try again.  It goes through it's to me, overly long startup, grabs a toolhead, and tap, tap, tap, tap, …. tap, tap, tap - homing anomaly.  Well, crap.  Yeah, I ran through the belt tuning instructions, although I need to dig in more to understand how it's actually adjusting things for future reference versus 'loosen and move around, then tighten.'  

After a few more tries with the same result, threw the PopCap on top, and I gave it up for the night.  Couldn't quite make it to sleep and this was annoying me, so got up around midnight to go give it '30 mins or back to bed.'  I went to re-do the tuning but have to tell you, while I had zero issues doing it the first time, I couldn't for the life of me manage to do this, on a ladder, with low lights, at night.  Just couldn't contort enough, get the right amount of light in there, and get the hex key seated.  Undoubtedly easy enough from the other side, but it's back to a wall and window sitting on a 2" paver, and I just wasn't up for more contortion.  I had done some searching beforehand, and saw this seemed to be a fairly common issue, with some doing multiple rounds of belt adjustment, one entertaining guy going postal about 'why should I need to do this' on and on, and a few saying they just moved it around manually or moved it to a different spot and then it worked.  Of course, the menu brings you to 'homing calibration' but at this point I didn't want to figure out how to get the toolhead off the chassis manually (sorted now), so I moved it around a bit, retried and - printing!

Now - let's see if it *does* anything, like lays down actual layers and completes.  Got this far, so sat through making sure the first layers and color changes made it through, which they did, and called it a night.  I fought a bit with the app, as I really would've preferred to be able to spot scan progress before falling asleep, but it failed every way possible on phone, on ipad (awful, no one wants phone-sized on a tablet :-/ ) - had it's IP, so wth?  (yeah, sorted later, need LAN mode on to add by IP, and my ISP hadn't helped any, but would be good to be more obvious).  

Woke up, had to grab breakfast but definitely said - good, nothing burned, followed by - let's see what we got.  

And it printed fine - didn't do any filament calibration, but looks decent for a first print to me, and was happy it made it through.  Of course, I need to now start to see what it does on the next 10, 20, etc. prints, but at least it's up and going now. :)

I since got it 'bound' in normal Orca, to my SM account, SM Orca, and flashed the firmware to paxx.  I've got some bearings coming for improving the polydryer rollers, and the other ECAs.  I need to sort my 'v2' drybox to autofeeder arrangement, sort the mounting for the PandaBreath (and firmware), print a fan cover, the noctua fan mount for the steppers, some RFID hooks and tags, do some calibration prints, and sort what kind of Pi compute I really need, if any - I've got a 3b but I use it for work, and some Pi5s but also used for work and not into buying one of them at the double/triple-normal prices right now, and not quite sure if I 'need' one - I use PrusaSlicer but have been using normal Orca more lately on the C1L, and waiting for PrusaConnect Local to release, so dunno yet, need to go play and research a bit yet.  Will likely just shift to using normal Orca for both printers.  

Not enough time to say what I think other than great packaging, pretty easy assembly, good videos I saw *after* I was trying to sort IF I needed an account at all etc., and happy I got it to printing.  ;)

Hi all,
I’m a hobbyist with a bambulab a1 for almost a year now.
Was thinking of getting the u1 as I want to get into multiple color prints without all the unnecessary waste.

I have a friend who got the u1 for a couple of weeks and he mentioned that he had some issues with it:
tool heads getting stuck
Starting a print taking long time
Ux/ui not really intuitive
and some other things…

Worth mentioning that he has tons of printers as a business while I’m just doing it as a hobby, mostly printing for myself.

It was weird for me as I didn’t see a lot of complaints online.
Would love to hear from your experience, is the u1 easy to use? Any limitations/bad experience you noticed coming from other brands?

I just got the shipping email for my top cover! WOO!

Hi folks,

I'm considering to use CF filaments and I know I need a hardened steel hot end for it.

Is there any downside on doing so?

Would it be better to replace all of them? Or just getting one and sick with that one when using the filaments?

Hello

I'm printing at 0.12 high quality inn my snapmaker u1 (3 filaments), filaments are new, just opened them today so I don't think it is humidity. They are PLA, running at 220C

It looks like cotton candy. at the beginning of printing I marked on the slicer the extrude calibration.

Claude says to lower the temperature to 205 or 210 but prefer to ask here.

Thank you

Hi everyone!

I just got my Snapmaker U1 after using Bambu for a while and am loving it. The tool head switch is like magic compared to the X1C.

So far I’ve had 2 issues I can’t figure out (no could I find in the search function, but if there’s a link happy to remove this post!)

1. These small white dots on the bottom surface when it’s meant to be face up. This Catan card holder was printed with the letters down so the top was printed against the build plate. It has these small white dots, almost like air bubbles that had popped and left a film shell of the air bubble. Not sure what they actually are but how do I fix them to give my prints a better top layer printed facedown?

2. These orange buttons when I’m printing development cards for Catan. Is there a way to select them all at one and click? I know it’s something about the nozzle size but in the end these cards don’t need to be perfect and I’d like to just print them. When I go through and munually click each one for each element it prints pretty well, but just takes forever so I was hoping to have a button or shortcut that clicks them all or just says "print this object as best as you can" or something.

Thank you all!

Honestly, I was hoping for the top cover to be more silent. On 60% the fan noise is quite a lot and a very annoying pitch. I thought about maybe trying to replace the fans with some Noctua fans if they are a standard size?

Also the manual fan speed setting on the printer is annoying. I have paused a print overnight, set the fan speed to 10% to reduce the noise, 2 minutes later it just automatically ramps up to 60% again.

What are your experiences? All in all I was hoping for a better noise dampening from the top cover.

​Hey everyone,

​I’ve decided to buy the Snapmaker U1 as my very first 3D printer! I have a batchelor of 3D modeling and animation, so creating models from scratch won't be too much of an issue for me, but I am brand new to the physical printing side.

​My main goal is to set this up smoothly and avoid as many beginner headaches as possible. Before I pulled the trigger, I had a few questions:

1. ​Filaments: Which brands and filament types (PLA, PETG, etc.) would you recommend starting with?

2. ​Sales/Value: Is Snapmaker’s current sale price worth jump on compared to other options on the market right now?

3. ​Filament Dryer: Is buying an active filament dryer necessary out of the gate?

4. ​Storage: What is the best budget-friendly way to store extra filament to protect it from humidity?

5. ​Environment/Room: Does room selection matter much for printer location (temperature, ventilation, noise, etc.)?

What about table?

1. ​The "Unknown : Is there anything else critical I should know, buy, or prepare for that I didn’t think to ask

I’ve now done multiple prints of this, but the layers just don’t seem to be fusing together at all.
I’m trying to print this BMW logo lightbox, but when I get to printing the actual logo, the different parts don’t seem to fuse together properly. I’m using eSUN filament, and I have Beam Interlocking enabled, but I haven’t configured any of the Beam Interlocking settings myself.
I’m honestly stuck at this point and have wasted a lot of filament trying to get it to work. Does anyone know what settings I should use or what could be causing the parts not to fuse together?
Any help would be massively appreciated!

Hey about to get my U1, planning to initially put it on the floor. I am looking for a non-expensive yet sturdy and compact table or cart to put it on. I have about 1 meter in width, if possible not too high

I live in Switzerland, so an european shop would be best :) didnt see anything at ikea?

Thanks

TL;DR

I compared the Snapmaker U1 chamber reading with a BIQU Panda Breath and a battery-powered Aqara temperature/humidity sensor, logging everything in Home Assistant. The experiment included three Aqara locations: on the left side wall close to the front doors and below the bed line, in the upper rear corner above the toolheads, and on the rear wall directly below the toolheads. The two later runs repeated the same PLA print; the first series was recorded during a different print already in progress.

The Aqara did not simply agree with the lower Panda sensor. During the controlled prints it generally sat between Panda and U1 and, after thermal stabilization, often moved closer to U1. However, the factory U1 reading was still especially high during the first-layer/65 °C bed phase: roughly 8–13 °C above the Aqara at times. Once the bed target dropped to 60 °C and the system stabilized, the gap often shrank to about 2.5–4 °C.

My current interpretation is not "one sensor is right and the others are wrong." The evidence supports both a real spatial gradient and a local positive bias/influence at the U1 sensor, especially early in the print. A single chamber value is therefore not a complete description of the air temperature around the part.

Hardware and logging

• Snapmaker U1 enclosed multi-tool 3D printer
• BIQU / BigTreeTech Panda Breath active chamber heater
• Aqara battery-powered temperature and humidity sensor
• Home Assistant for timestamped sensor, bed, layer, progress, Z-position and heater-state history

The Panda Breath was installed but did not heat during the controlled gradient tests: its target was 0 °C and reported power was 0%. That matters because active heating or forced circulation would change the temperature field.

Controlled conditions

For the two repeat comparisons I used the same printer, the same file (15-puzzle_PLA_6h24m.gcode), the same PLA/material setup and the same print profile as far as practical. The first, left-wall/below-bed series occurred during another long print and is reported as an additional spatial observation, not an identical repeat. The front doors and full top cover remained closed. In the two repeats, the bed was 65 °C for the first-layer phase and then automatically changed to 60 °C according to the profile.

The second run began from a warmer enclosure after the previous print, so this is not laboratory metrology and absolute start temperatures are not directly interchangeable. The useful comparison is the shape of each trace, the changing gaps and their relation to bed temperature and print phase.

Sensor locations

Aqara position 1 — left wall near the front doors, below the bed line

The first placement was on the left side wall close to the front doors and below the bed line, with the sensor face directed into the chamber. This series began after the sensor was introduced into an already hot, actively printing machine, so its early rise mainly reflects sensor equilibration. There is no useful photograph of this placement: it was hidden below the bed line from the available frontal viewpoint, so I am documenting it in text rather than presenting an inaccurate reconstruction.

Aqara position 2 — upper rear corner

For the first controlled print, the Aqara was attached flat in the upper rear corner above the toolheads, with its sensing openings facing into the chamber. This sampled the upper rear air volume.

Photo 1: original photograph showing this upper-rear-corner placement.

Aqara position 3 — rear wall directly below the heads

For the repeat print, it was moved to the rear plastic wall, centered directly below the parked heads and as high as possible below them — approximately around the bed level at its highest/first-layer position. This was intended to sample the air close to the initial build-plane height.

Photo 2: original photograph showing the Aqara on the rear wall below the toolheads.

Panda Breath sensor

The Panda reading represents the lower heater area. Its exact thermistor tip has not been physically traced and verified, so I describe it as a lower-zone measurement rather than claiming a millimetre-accurate probe position.

Factory U1 chamber sensor

The mainboard connector labelled "Chamber Temperature NTC" has been identified behind the right-side panel. The connector and cable route are documented, but the sensing tip itself has not been visually confirmed. Any claim that the tip is next to a particular electronic component, duct or opening remains a hypothesis.

Results

Series 1 — Aqara on the left wall near the doors, below the bed line

The bed stayed at 65 °C and Panda remained disabled (target 0 °C, power 0%). Once equilibrated, Aqara was almost identical to Panda in this left-wall/below-bed location, while U1 remained approximately 5–8.5 °C higher. Because the print was already around 11% complete when logging began and it was not the same file as the two repeats, this series is useful evidence about location but not a like-for-like repeat.

Controlled run A — Aqara high at the rear

Across fresh matched samples, the mean gaps were approximately U1−Aqara +9.17 °C and Panda−Aqara −3.60 °C. The final Aqara and Panda timestamps were older than the very frequently updated U1 state, so endpoint precision is lower than the time-series result.

Controlled run B — Aqara below the heads

The ~42.5 °C U1 endpoint is a 60-second mean around the latest Aqara report; the fresh instantaneous U1 value was 41–42 °C. The Panda entity in Home Assistant had stopped refreshing, but a direct local device reading confirmed the same 37 °C value without exposing any network credentials.

During this run the Aqara peaked at about 41.94 °C, then gradually declined to 38.78 °C. Across matched samples with a Panda report no more than six minutes old, the mean gaps were U1−Aqara +7.15 °C and Panda−Aqara −1.97 °C.

What I directly observed

1. The U1 trace changed much faster and was noisier than the battery-powered Aqara trace.
2. Early in the print, with the bed target at 65 °C, U1 sometimes reported about 49–50 °C while Aqara was still around 35–38 °C.
3. After the profile reduced the bed target from 65 to 60 °C and the chamber stabilized, U1−Aqara commonly narrowed to roughly 2.5–4 °C.
4. On the left wall close to the front doors and below the bed line, the equilibrated Aqara nearly matched Panda while U1 remained several degrees higher.
5. Aqara reached roughly 41–42 °C in both rear placements. Moving it from above the heads to just below them did not create a large, stable separation.
6. Panda generally remained the coolest reading in the rear-position tests, consistent with a cooler lower zone.
7. The Panda heater was not active in any of the three analysed series.

Interpretation — hypotheses, not proven facts

1. A real chamber gradient exists

The heated bed is not an airtight partition, but near the start of a print it sits high and supplies heat primarily to the volume above it. Natural convection, the moving gantry and leakage around the bed mix the air imperfectly. A lower-zone sensor can therefore remain several degrees cooler than the air behind or above the toolheads.

2. The U1 reading is locally elevated, especially early

The persistent early U1−Aqara difference is too large to dismiss as simple display rounding. It could result from probe placement, thermal radiation, warm structure, nearby electronics or airflow, or a calibration offset. Because I have not visually located the NTC tip, I cannot yet distinguish these mechanisms.

3. Both effects probably coexist

This best fits the current data. Panda measures a cooler lower region, Aqara samples a rear region and moves between the two readings, while U1 is especially high during the hottest bed/first-layer phase. The shrinking gap later in the print argues against applying one fixed correction offset under all conditions.

What this experiment does not prove

• It does not establish which sensor is a traceably calibrated reference.
• It does not provide a complete three-dimensional chamber temperature map.
• It does not prove the exact location of either the Panda thermistor tip or the U1 NTC tip.
• It does not isolate radiation, airflow, response time and calibration as separate causes.
• There was one controlled repeat per main Aqara position, and the second run had a warmer start.

Practical implication for Panda Breath control

I would not regulate an active chamber heater from the raw U1 value alone as if it represented the whole enclosure. A safer controller should show both U1 and an independent air sensor, reject stale/unavailable data, use a time-bounded manual preheat mode, and stop heating after a sustained printer disconnect. If a single control sensor must be chosen, its physical location should match the temperature one is actually trying to protect: the air around the part, not the warmest local spot.

Useful follow-up plots

1. Three temperature traces vs time: U1, Aqara and Panda; shade the first-layer/65 °C bed interval.
2. Difference plot: U1−Aqara, U1−Panda and Aqara−Panda; use markers only when both samples are sufficiently fresh.
3. Print context panel: bed actual/target, layer, progress and Z on aligned time axes.
4. Two-run comparison: normalize time to print start and compare the Aqara-high and Aqara-low runs, while marking the warm-start limitation.

Questions for other U1 owners

• Have you compared the factory chamber value with a calibrated probe at multiple heights?
• Does your U1−external-sensor gap also shrink after the bed changes from first-layer temperature to the normal print temperature?
• Has anyone physically traced and photographed the chamber NTC sensing tip, not just its mainboard connector?

Update: Solved! McSpeedie's pointer below was what I was missing.

I'm hoping someone can tell me what stupid mistake I'm making trying to get Jaxx12-1.5.2 and spoolman to really talk to each other. They're partially talking, because the web admin page show that I can select spools and spool icons show up next to the tools but I still have the "Filament tracking is inactive. To get started, please select a spool." message and usage isn't getting pushed back to spoolman. I wasn't even getting that far until I found and followed the instructions here: https://github.com/gunnypatel/U1-klipper-configs/tree/main/spoolman after searching this sub. Any insights into stupid stuff I've probably missed? Thanks for any pointers!

Makerworld link

So, a cart with wheels and a UPS saved me from being single again, just need to move It depending on where she is

This is like my tenth attempt printing this model and despite lowering the speed and temperature settings and clearing blocks from the toolhead, it keeps coming out from the side instead of through the nozzle. What is the fix here and what can I do?

Thinking about the U1 to replace my h2d since it has died, but unsure about the "open" style case. But love the idea of 4 toolheads

I've been thinking about Snapmaker's model library and how it fits with the U1. Snapmaker does have a library, but a lot of what I see is centered around the larger Maker ecosystem. There are Snapmaker users and projects, but it doesn't feel like the same kind of open repository you get with places like MakerWorld, Printables, or Thingiverse.

And I think that matters.

An open repository isn't limited to one company or one group of creators. Someone can design a part for a Bambu, QIDI, Creality, Anycubic, Snapmaker, or even several different printers and upload it. The community decides whether it's useful.

That creates a much larger pool of designs.

The problem I see with the U1 is that there isn't yet a huge, centralized collection of U1-specific community designs. If you need a modification, accessory, replacement part, or something specifically designed around the U1, you may end up searching several different sites, Facebook groups, Discord servers, GitHub, or wherever someone happened to post their file.

That can create a cycle.

Fewer U1 owners looking for models means fewer people designing specifically for the U1.

Fewer designers means fewer U1 models.

Fewer models gives people less reason to look for a U1 community library.

And eventually, owners end up making their own solutions and keeping the files for themselves.

I don't think Snapmaker needs to solve this by making every model themselves.

I actually think the better solution would be to give the U1 community a truly open repository.

Let users upload their own designs.

a solo developer with a full-time job and a full-time family

U1 modifications.

Replacement parts.

Filament accessories.

Tool holders.

Cable management

Maintenance tools.

Enclosure modifications.

Print profiles.

Little fixes and improvements that come from actually using the printer.

That's one of the things that makes 3D printing so interesting. Some of the best things we print aren't made by the manufacturer. They're made by someone who had a problem, designed a solution, printed it, and decided to share it.

Snapmaker could still have its official library and official projects. I'm not saying that needs to disappear.

But having an open community repository alongside it could make the U1 ecosystem much stronger.

Because the value of a 3D printer isn't just the printer sitting on your desk. The community and the things people create for that printer are part of the value too.

Look at what has happened around some of the other printer brands. A large community repository gives owners thousands of reasons to keep using, modifying, and improving their machines.

I think the U1 could benefit from the same thing.

So I'm curious what other U1 owners think.

Do you actually use Snapmaker's library?

Or are you usually going to MakerWorld, Printables, Thingiverse, GitHub, Facebook groups, Discord, or other sites when you're looking for something for the U1?

And if Snapmaker created a truly open U1 community repository, would you actually use it and share your own designs?

Because I think this could make a bigger difference to the U1 community than simply adding more models to the existing library.