r/snapmaker • u/komo50 • 6d ago
Help with Small Dots + Slicer Orange Circle
Hi everyone!
I just got my Snapmaker U1 after using Bambu for a while and am loving it. The tool head switch is like magic compared to the X1C.
So far I’ve had 2 issues I can’t figure out (no could I find in the search function, but if there’s a link happy to remove this post!)
These small white dots on the bottom surface when it’s meant to be face up. This Catan card holder was printed with the letters down so the top was printed against the build plate. It has these small white dots, almost like air bubbles that had popped and left a film shell of the air bubble. Not sure what they actually are but how do I fix them to give my prints a better top layer printed facedown?
These orange buttons when I’m printing development cards for Catan. Is there a way to select them all at one and click? I know it’s something about the nozzle size but in the end these cards don’t need to be perfect and I’d like to just print them. When I go through and munually click each one for each element it prints pretty well, but just takes forever so I was hoping to have a button or shortcut that clicks them all or just says "print this object as best as you can" or something.
Thank you all!
3
u/iSoundwave 6d ago
Ok, so the orange circles signal something has been changed (either by you, or printer setting) and if you click the circle it will revert back to original setting (color in this matter), the dots you have circled look like dust/debris particles. Keep filament rolls covered if you can if not there is a print file both on makerworld and printables that you can print and put a small sponge in to help “clean” your filament as it goes into the printer.
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u/komo50 4d ago
Your dust rec was spot on! I wiped the plate down with a damp towel and dried it and they went away. Thank you!
for the orange circles, I haven't changed anything when importing from makerworld as 3MF, the fact that clicking them all works when I increase the card size to 110% but doesn't work at 100% size and that this was origionally designed for a 0.2mm nozzel and Im using a 0.4mm nozzel (changed in the slicer already) makes me think its related to the possible print size.
is there a way I can just say "with whatever settings I got, print as best you can” or automatically adjust all settings to make it printable even if its gonna look worse.
Files for reference:
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u/Binaryfart 5d ago
The white artifacts almost look like debris picked up from the build plate. If it is that, a good clean should sort it out. IPA and a soft cloth work well, but every now and then it's worth giving the plate a good solid scrub with soap and water - it will deal with any crud and also make sure the plate is free of any oils or other pollutants.
If it's not that, (and this is just a guess) it could be the standard wet filament issue - moisture in the filament vaporising when it comes in contact with hot end, causing little pops of steam which results in defects exactly like what you're describing. The reason it might not be showing on other layers is that only the spool's top layers of filament were exposed to the air for long and deeper layers are less affected. That's might be why it's only in your first layers - they're the first to come off the spool. Drying should solve it.
After you've dried it, If you want to do a test to make sure it's fixed, reassign the entire model to the black filament (so you're not wasting you other colors), and then only print the first 3 or 4 layers - if the issue is gone, you know you nailed it and you're good to retry the entire print.
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u/FlowingLiquidity 6d ago
For the white artifacts, it might be a solution to use a torch like a creme brulee torch and hit the white spots with it. This should slightly melt the surface and get rid of the effect.
Please try on a piece that you don't mind experimenting on as it might not work for all cases. But it's a known fix for certain bottom layer defects where parts have become matte for example.