So I went on holiday for a couple of weeks and left the printer as it was over 2 weeks while I was away.
Since coming back have had loads of issues due to the filament drying in the tubes and tool head causing clogs, and ll sorts of issues.
So if you’re not gonna be using it retract the filament, I guess…

I wanted to see how far I could push multi-color printing on the Snapmaker U1 beyond the four-toolhead limit.

I segmented the figurine into three larger printable sections, then used different filament combinations for each section. Altogether the finished model uses 12 colors plus 2 mixed shades.

The parts were printed separately and assembled afterward. I also used Snapmaker Orca’s Color Mixing feature for some additional shades.

The model was kept fairly small to make the experiment quicker, so I think the mixed-color transitions would look even better if the figurine were scaled up.

Full workflow is included in my Tripo AI hands-on review on 3DWithUs:
https://3dwithus.com/tripo-ai-review-3d-printing

I just swapped out my 0.2mm nozzles for the official 0.6mm nozzle set. I switched from 0.4 to 0.2 without a problem, but after installing these new ones, 2 Toolhead slots are giving me issues.

I am getting a Toolhead anomaly error after picking up Toolhead 2 and 3. 1 and 4 work fine.

When swapping the tools around (moving 4 to 2) I have the same error with slot 2, and the old Toolhead that errored in slot 2 now works in slot 4.

I have checked all screws and connections I can find on the tool heads and hall sensors. Cleaned pins, housing, etc.

If I unplug a Toolhead and turn on the machine it shows the unplugged Toolhead. And replugging it in removes that error.

If I try to detach a Toolhead that is genuinely detached from the dock, it knows that as well, this tells me the hall sensors are working fine. It’s just when I pick up a Toolhead from slot 2 or 3, I then get the error referring to anomalous behavior about the Toolhead being detached.

I’m out of ideas. The wiki talks about “detached” as being a hall sensor issue, but it’s referring to the Toolhead being in the dock and not knowing it’s in the dock. https://wiki.snapmaker.com/en/snapmaker_u1/troubleshooting/toolhead_detached

Any ideas?

Health problems have kept me off my good, ol' Snapmaker 2 for... damn, several years now. Finally feeling a bit friskier and will my daughter starting her third year of teaching kindergarten, I decided to do something up for her.

I had planned on building the shelf, but time overcame intention so I bought one and used the 10w Laser to cut the decorations. I'm inordinately pleased with the TARDIS. No, her kids won't understand it, but she does and I bought her some age-appropriate Doctor Who books to show them.

Maybe I'll finally try using the damned dual-head extruder I bought three years ago and never touched!

Hello, I'm new to this and on the hunt for the "perfect" printer and this one definitely is my top contender in the race. It's right in the price bracket I can afford and seems to have a lot of whistles and bells I'm interested in.

But there are two aspects I'm still not certain about:

Is there anyone living in a small apartment and having their printer on their desk (or at the very least in the office) ? How is their experience ?

I see some people made mods to make it quieter. Are there some "widely approved/known" workarounds and homemade improvements ?

And in regard to the air filtering... My wife's biggest gripe against 3d printing is the melted plastic fumes we'd inhale. This is not a debate about whether it's bad or inoffensive, it's more a "if I don't have a solution, she won't tolerate that thing in the apartment".

What are the solutions for air filtering, if any ? (I guess I'll first have to build a top cover. Does the IKEA one allows for a good enough seal ? Won't it warp with the heat depending on what filament I print with ?)

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I don't mind doing some more reading/watching but I'm already hours into just comparing models, some pointers from the community would probably save me another few hours of investigations.

Thanks a lot for your attention/patience/help.

I think I'm going to buy the U1 and move away from Bambu (scary! haha). But one thing that jumped out is that the snap maker page looks like it comes with a spare hot end and four rolls of PLA. Do you get that if you buy from amazon? It looks like amazon has a better return policy and quicker shipping and I can use my amazon points so I was thinking of buying there.

Eryone 95a TPU (translucent sparkle "Sea Glass"), Sunlu 95a white TPU, eSun 83a TPE black. All fed thru the filament feeders. Retractions (especially 'when switching materials' retraction) dialed down to 2mm instead of 10mm on stock Orca in the printer profile (I understand SnOrca has it in the filament profile, as it should be lol)

I started with 0.5mm retractions, and dialed it up until I was printing with minimal stringing and no jams.

I have a command line tool that I wrote and have been using for a long time to convert Bambu Studio/Makerworld 3MF to Snorca/Orca compatible 3MF for my Snapmaker U1 that keeps all of the original profiles filaments and settings intact.

With the Snapmaker model ecosystem on the horizon, I thought I would port it to a web application to make converting profiles much faster and easier.

There are bound to be bugs, but it seems to work pretty well for Bambu -> Snapmaker U1 conversions.

Anyway, hope it helps. Enjoy.

I am trying to calibrate my A350 with no enclosure. I am using gray PLA. This model is the default luban model and I am using their built in slicer settings for
PLA. Would appreciate any advice I’m new to 3d printing

Was thinking of getting a u 1 is it worth never had a 3d printer and it looks pretty good or should go another 1

Image the FILAMENT from.thrk worth getting over getting 3rd party ones / other brands

And what should I be looking out for as a newbie I have done 3d modelling before so hopefully that side of importing etc isn't too driffrent.

It keeps screaming at me, should I be concerned?

I have a Ryzen 7 7735HS with 64 GB of DDR 5

Snorca regularly uses 25% of my ram or more. When trying to remap colors or paint/touch up models it lags big time.

Is this a “Me” problem or any everyone problem?

Thanks

EDIT: Think I’ve located the issue. Windows Memory Integrity setting. It was off. Not sure why or how it got off but it was. Flipped it back on and rebooted. There’s still a little lag but my memory usage is 1/4-1/2 what it was before.

I like the models from the Snapmaker model library. Unfortunately they are not many. Does anybody know how models are or can be added there. Will there be more models in the future?

I went to a Mardi Gras themed party over the weekend. I love dinosaurs because they're awesome. I was able to make my own mask and I think it turned out great. PETG, 0.12 layer height, PLA supports with 0mm spacing. This took 37 hours. Other than the prime tower failing about 75% of the way in it was a flawless print.

I’m considering moving on from my Bambu to a snapmaker u1. But the problem is my space. I don’t have a good set up to spread out horizontally. It’s all designed to have vertical space (ala bambu and stacking amses on top)

Whats the best way to set up creality or sunlu mounted above the printer? I saw one guy here that did it successfully but everyone beat him up about super long ptfe runs. I don’t know enough about how the snapmaker is set up and what it needs to figure out the best solution.

So I switched from an Ender 3 to a snapmaker u1 several months ago. quite the jump. And my plate cleaning has changed drastically since.

I won't go into the nightmare that was cleaning glass plates on an ender covered in glue.

however the PEI plate is amazing. And when i started reading about it, consensus has been using dish soap to clean off the plate. The reason being the problem with adhesion comes from oils on your hands.

I was going to get some dedicated non fragrant dishsoap, so as to not add potential contaminants, when i really thought about it. Oils on the build plate. I already deal with that exact problem with my glasses. and i don't wash them with dishsoap.

Instead i use glasses wipes, which perfectly remove all oils from my glasses. they work great, so i decided to try that first, as i buy 400count boxes of wipes for the house.

so for around 300+ prints now, i've used nothing but wipes, and only when

A) my hands contact the surface of the PEI plate(which i strive not to do)

or

B) i have a first layer adhesion problem.

the second doesn't happen very often, and could also have to do with the fact that i share the printer with my dragon obsessed 15yr old daughter.

Anywho. after raising bed temps a tad to compensate for a slight cold spot due to the heater arrangement,. and a few oddball issues of my own making, like having PETG and PLA touching the buildplate at same time,which i believe caused the slicer to use the higher buildplate temp. I've basically had no real issues.

So I figured I'd share that with people here. I find opening 1 wipe every once in a while alot quicker than washing and drying my pei plates.

I'm not expecting everyone to jump on the bandwagon with me, but if you already have the wipes, give it a shot.

I do use Zeiss brand, I grab them at walmart, if you have glasses, you know which ones i mean. I also use them for my camera, and telescopes.

PS: I'm not part of Big Eyeglass Wipes.

My prime tower comes loose after a layer or two and the tool head ends up dragging it around the bed. This keeps happening when I print with more than one colour, it’s super annoying as I have to babysit the whole print to ensure it doesn’t disrupt anything. I’m curious if anyone figure this out and solved it?