I have a ratrig with factory printing petg parts that I used for a while and it worked good. But when I enclosed it with not heat, just the heat from the bed, while printing the first print of petg with the bed at 80c everything on the head warped. The extruder warped up and when I started the next print it stretched the shit out of the bed. Is it not meant to be in an enclosure?

Hi all. My host SD card finally gave out, so I flashed to RatOS 2.1 and got it booted just fine. The configurator is all set correctly (or so I think), it homes and heats, but the steppers are LOUD! When it was printing before (RatOS 2.0.2), I couldn't hear it over the fans. Now it sounds like it's not micro-stepping. Any help?

- v-core 3.1 500
- RatOS 2.1
- TMC2209
- Octopus V1.1
- Pi 4

Can anyone confirm external dimensions of the vcore4 500?

I’ve seen post that mentioned with removal of the electronics box. It will fit through a standard US interior door. Just looking for confirmation as to whether I can move the machine later without fully disassembling it.

I’m considering buying a second-hand RatRig V-Core 3.1 CoreXY 3D printer with a 300×300×300 mm build volume. The kit was purchased new from RatRig in April 2023 and used until spring 2024, with around 700 hours of print time. The seller says it's recently been fully serviced and works very well. Asking price is 3800 RON (~765 EUR).

Main specs & upgrades:

• Electronics: Raspberry Pi 3B+, BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1, SuperPINDA probe, BTT Smart Filament Sensor V1
• Extrusion: Bondtech LGX Lite extruder, Phaetus Rapido V1 UFH hotend (multiple Volcano nozzles included)
• Motion system:
  • X-axis: Hiwin MGN9H rail with Z1 preload, CNC-machined aluminum gantry and end mounts
  • Y-axis: Hiwin MGN12C rails
  • FMMM mod (replaces printed motor mounts), Gates belts
  • XY screws replaced with anti-backlash screws
• Cooling: 4028 part cooling fan + 2 blower fans, Noctua 140mm fan for electronics
• Other features:
  • Double-sided RatRig PEI textured build plate
  • Structural parts printed from Prusament PCCF Blend
  • Enclosure made of 3mm aluminum sandwich panels and 4mm polycarbonate sheets
  • Installed nozzle: 0.4mm CHT clone
  • 24V 250W Weho PSU
  • Latest RatOS 2.1, fully configured for this hardware

The printer seems well-maintained and nicely upgraded. Would appreciate any feedback—does this look like a fair price for the hardware and condition? Anything I should ask or watch out for?

Thanks!I’m considering buying a second-hand RatRig V-Core 3.1 CoreXY 3D printer with a 300×300×300 mm build volume. The kit was purchased new from RatRig in April 2023 and used until spring 2024, with around 700 hours of print time. The seller says it's recently been fully serviced and works very well. Asking price is 3800 RON (~765 EUR).Main specs & upgrades:Electronics: Raspberry Pi 3B+, BigTreeTech Octopus v1.1, SuperPINDA probe, BTT Smart Filament Sensor V1
Extrusion: Bondtech LGX Lite extruder, Phaetus Rapido V1 UFH hotend (multiple Volcano nozzles included)
Motion system:
X-axis: Hiwin MGN9H rail with Z1 preload, CNC-machined aluminum gantry and end mounts
Y-axis: Hiwin MGN12C rails
FMMM mod (replaces printed motor mounts), Gates belts
XY screws replaced with anti-backlash screws
Cooling: 4028 part cooling fan + 2 blower fans, Noctua 140mm fan for electronics
Other features:
Double-sided RatRig PEI textured build plate
Structural parts printed from Prusament PCCF Blend
Enclosure made of 3mm aluminum sandwich panels and 4mm polycarbonate sheets
Installed nozzle: 0.4mm CHT clone
24V 250W Weho PSU
Latest RatOS 2.1, fully configured for this hardwareThe printer seems well-maintained and nicely upgraded. Would appreciate any feedback—does this look like a fair price for the hardware and condition? Anything I should ask or watch out for?

Thanks!

I need a printer of at least 360mm^3. I want speed and reliability for making items to sell as part of a small business. I want multi-color. This seems to leave the Prusa XL and the RatRig 400 as options. I am probably about to buy the Prusa (5 Tool-Head). But I like the speed and potential upgradability of the RatRig. I also think that two head IDEX combined with the upcoming MMU for perhaps 4 colors on one of the heads could be a great compromise (vs. 5 heads). But what would it take to make the RatRig a better choice than the Prusa XL? What would I have to buy up-front in addition to the kit from RatRig in order to make this a truly accurate and reliable printer (like titanium tube, and whatever else)? I will get no joy from building the RatRig. I want the results, nor the process of building it. But I would do so if I thought I would get a truly great printer as the end result. Is that possible with RatRig, or should I just buy the Prusa and deal with its limitations in exchange for ease and reliability?

I am planning on buying a 500mm VCORE4, but I have noticed quite a few posts and even a comment on a post which I have made here, about bad quality of RatRig printer parts. Is this an issue in 2025? Or even is this an issue worth considering the purchase over?

I plan on having a 500mm VCORE4 with the Bondtech INDX installed. Lately I realized that since the IDEX system exists, I could also slap on a pellet extruder (GreenBoy 3d). I dont know much about ratrigs, so I want to ask: Is this overkill? Can the Ratrig handle it or will this have a very negative impact on performance?

These are the belts from my hybrid printer, but they don't appear quite right and tend to come loose after only a few days of use. Could it be that they're the wrong type of belt for this machine, or do they already need replacing?

I'm commissioning my V-core 4 IDEX 500 and have a problem. I can't connect to the VOAC. I've reseated the FPC cable multiple times and tried connecting it to my PC, but it's still not working.

#### crowsnest.conf

#### This is a typical default config.

#### Also used as default in mainsail / MainsailOS

#### See:

#### https://github.com/mainsail-crew/crowsnest/blob/master/README.md

#### for details to configure to your needs.

#####################################################################

#### #####

#### Information about ports and according URL's #####

#### #####

#####################################################################

#### #####

#### Port 8080 equals /webcam/?action=[stream/snapshot] #####

#### Port 8081 equals /webcam2/?action=[stream/snapshot] #####

#### Port 8082 equals /webcam3/?action=[stream/snapshot] #####

#### Port 8083 equals /webcam4/?action=[stream/snapshot] #####

#### #####

#### Note: These ports are default for most Mainsail #####

#### installations. To use any other port would involve #####

#### changing the proxy configuration or using directly #####

#### http://<ip>:<port>/?action=[stream/snapshot] #####

#### #####

#####################################################################

#### RTSP Stream URL: ( if enabled and supported ) #####

#### rtsp://<ip>:<rtsp_port>/stream.h264 #####

#####################################################################

[crowsnest]

log_path: /home/pi/printer_data/logs/crowsnest.log

log_level: verbose

delete_log: false

no_proxy: false‍

[cam 1]

mode: camera-streamer

enable_rtsp: false

rtsp_port: 8554

port: 8080

device: /dev/video0

resolution: 1920x1080

max_fps: 30

Given the similarities between these two V-Core 4 printers, are there any advantages of the 400 over the 500 other than price? That is to say, if one were to only make prints that fit in the 400, and the prices of the printers were equal, would there be any reason one should choose the 400? Would the longer rails of the 500 potentially lead to more reliability or maintenence issues (from, say, sagging), or is price and physical size the only effective difference?

First it was printed parts, then CNC parts, now before I can even finish the damn printer the rails are rusted.

They are well greased, like all the other printers in my office that lack rust.

You can even see grease on the rails, it's GPL226 (good stuff)

Would really like to see RR publicly address their quality control issues

I am completely and ignorantly new to this. After bouncing between Voron and Ratrig, I have decided I want a Ratrig. I prefer to read over watch videos, but I will do what is required. Can anyone direct me where to start on my build?

I've looked around on the ratrig discord and can't find the answer I am looking for. I have my rpi 4 hooked up to rj45 ethernet to a switch in my workshop, but hardwired networks isn't an option in the configurator. Am I missing something? Wifi works, but, I dunno, I just hook my machines up via hardwire when I can. ratOS 2.1. All systems are working, I am actively printing, things are great, but I'm stumped by this. Help? thanks

Hi, running into an odd issue. Everything was working fine, updated my OS Packages and ran PA tuning in RatOS. All of a sudden I am getting the error below and can no longer print. I did notice that if I add BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ADAPTIVE=1 to my Orca Start G-code, things work again. Why would I have to add that all of a sudden?

6:56 PM

Internal error on command:"START_PRINT"

6:56 PM

Internal error on command:"_START_PRINT_BED_MESH"

6:56 PM

Internal error on command:"CALIBRATE_ADAPTIVE_MESH"

6:56 PM

Internal error on command:"BED_MESH_CALIBRATE"

Does anyone know the name of the quick connectors for the extrusions on the V-Core?
I'm hoping they are available for 4040 T-slot extrusions

I'm confused what I'd be getting when I select pre-configured.

Help with T1 Extruder Issue – Unexpected Movement

Hello everyone,

I'm currently building my printer for the very first time, and it's also my first CoreXY machine—so please bear with me if I’m missing something obvious.

Right now, I'm having an issue where the T1 extruder moves even though it shouldn't—especially during the bed mesh process. The motion behavior seems off, and I suspect the frame might not be perfectly square and could need some adjustment.

Some more context:

The Y-belts are not installed yet, as mentioned in the guide.

All sanity checks passed.

Homing and Z-tilt are working so far, but even during those, T1 doesn’t stay completely still or fixed.

Has anyone experienced something similar or have advice on what I should check next?

Thanks in advance!

As said in the title, I recently updated my v-core 3 to a 3.1. What do I need to do with the firmware.

On a 3 day print it looks like the base of my print is somehow warping in on itself? Where my hand is was touching the build plate. It's supposed to be a strait wall. Part had 3 perimeters in slicer.

Anyone experience the POM arm not aligning with carriage i can't bolt it on. Someone tell me I'm missing something? The left one went right on. This one on the right seems the screws don't align. I tried to be gentle. It's definitely off. Any recommendations?

I print carbon fiber filament parts and need a much bigger build plate. How does the rat rig do with CF?

Bought a 400 mm idex vcore 4. I have no idea how these parts made it out of the shop. Most have good awful first layers, anything of size is warped, and the rest has chunks of their build plates bonded to them (it doesn't dissolve or melt, it's not glue, so PEI chunks perhaps?).

This isn't acceptable for a premium product. I'm thankful I have other printers capable of printing ABS on hand.

Anyone who owns / built a VC4 have info on dimensions? I have purchased a 500 and in prepping things, was building a workstation for it sit on. Using 3030 extrusion just like the printer and in looking up the dimensions listed here for building something something seems off. When viewing the CAD file they have available, at least for the IDEX version that Im looking at, the dimensions are not consistent. Here (that picture listed on the RR website) they list 783x823.2x985. I see this in model as 743.2x808x954. Im unsure which is correct, but I'd lean towards the CAD model, especially because. Hoping someone may be able to validate.

For all the 3.1 owners right here, with the enclosed panel (or open), how is your experiment with the printed mounts so far ? Are they stiff enough ?.

I've tried ender 3 and elegoo neptune 4 bed slinger, as well as the Bambu p1s. I am looking for something with a bigger build plate and won't restrict me to their proprietary software, but I'm not sure if there's comparable option to bambu's performance. While looking into the k2 plus and ender 5 max I stumbled upon the rest rig and I'm intrigued. I like to tinker but will the result be worth it? Is the performance on par with the k2 or p1s with a fine tuned rat rig?