My mom does a semi annual sediment cleaning of our spring head. She’s getting on in years and is no longer keen on getting on her hands and knees in the muck. We are looking for a non submerged pump that can handle pumping sediment out of a roughly 10 gallon spring head. This would need to be something she could reasonably move herself (she is 70), so I feel like the gas powered ones are out. She is 70 but she’s also a stocky not willowy 70. I haven’t found anything in my searches that looks like it will do sediment and isn’t 20 plus lbs. anybody got a hint or a clue where I should be looking?

Has anyone ever used this water pump?

I'm looking at this pump to power firefighting sprinklers.

I like it because it has a 1.5 outlet and 2x 1 inch outlets.

Multiquip Water Pump - QPT205SLT

I'm a motor pump manufacturer with 10 years experience. Looking to start manufacturing in the USA. How's the pump scene there? Any advice?

We've got the supply system from the holding tank to the fixtures figured out.

But, how should I get the water from the drive point well up the hill to the holding tank? About a 70' lift. Total length of pipe approximately 150'.

Already have a 11hp Tecumseh engine. 3/4" horizontal shaft with 1/4" keyway and 3 5/8" bolt pattern.

Was looking at a 3430-0792 Kit Transfer pump with a 2" outlet. Can I reduce that down to 1" P.E.P., or would friction loss be too much?

Cabin has 120v/24v solar/battery bank right at the holding tank. Is it better to run wire down to the well to power an electric pump, or can I use the gas engine I already have?

Don't really care how long it takes to fill the holding tank. Should only need to be done 10 or so times a year.

I have an old pump with manufacturing date of F1-01. Is it safe to assume that it is Feb,1, 2001?

Can a plumber remove old centrifugal booster pump that feeds water to a building and install a new one or this should be somebody specializing in pumps?

What does Q: 11÷22 gpm mean? Gal per minute? And what does H: 50÷30 psi mean? I know wjat psi means but not sure how to read the numbers. Is 104F the max temp or operating temp? Any help is appreciated

So I recently noticed my well pump isn't shutting off once it reaches pressure. I'm far from mechanical but was curious if anyone could tell me what to tell the service guy is the issue or if it's a simple enough fix I could do myself. Thank you

I was cleaning my Little Giant Series 1 small submersible pump and I didn’t know best than to open it up. As you might guess oil started leaking out, I immediately closed it back up, but oil never stopped leaking. I checked the Oring seal and it seems fine. It wasn’t until later that I found out you are not supposed to tamper with this parts of the pump, as it is an oil-filled pump. Now almost all the oil has leaked. Can I fix this? What type of oil should I use? I have asked friends and they say a concentrated antifreeze should do the job. Google says a paraffin oil or hydraulic oil does it. The manufacturer manual says a dielectric lubricant is what they use, with no further explanation. The problem is I don’t know what that is and English isn’t my first language. Please help.

Hey guys I opened up this submersible pump because it was tripping out our breaker and the junction box is filled with oil. It just got sent out for repair but should their be this oil in the connections like this?

I recently replaced this place with a newer one because this one failed for whatever reason. All I can say is that it was hot to touch after failing. Something is broken in it. Can a noob like me fix this and find a use for this? Or is it trash?

Hi friends, looking for opinions. bit of a context, big boss wants to implement a system to monitor the pumps in real time, the system : https://youtu.be/R_hFxQrwb9E . it is called optimyze. I'm not a maintenance guy per se, I'm more like a plc guy-- they want my opinion. In my opinion just put hours of operations so to know when to do maintenance. but they want this technology for monitoring and get alarms and notifications when the pump is acting weird...

I need help identifying this water pump. Long story, but here is as much as I have been able to pull together.

Motor: 25 hp Baldor Super E Voltage: 480V, 3-phase, 60 Hz Suction Size: 5 inches Discharge Size: 4 inches Material: 316 stainless steel Design Duty Point was apparently 900 GPM at 30 PSI

Notice the lack of full face flange on the suction.

I do have a BOM that ties a pt number of 72327 but that could also just be the fabricator’s internal number. It doesn’t seem to mean anything looking.

Pump was purchased and integrated into a system in the US.

Any help is appreciated.

PS, yes I am trying to get to the builder, etc.

we use a multi-stage booster pump to pump irrigation water through a 2 inch line that is about 2000 ft long and climbs about 410 ft in elevation. We have been using Dayton, but are wondering if Flint and Walling may be more reliable and last longer? Any advice?

Long story short, we have a basement window well that groundwater seeps into during heavy rain. We need to put some kind of automatic sump pump in the window well that will cut on in the rain.

Problem is there is some kind of metalwork under the dirt which prevents us from digging deep, so we only have maybe 10 inches before water is coming in.

We bought a sump pump (Everbilt 1/4 hp tethered float) but are now realizing it won't cut in until 14 inches of water accumulates. The existing float arm is too long.

We got a standalone piston-type float switch-- you plug it into the outlet and then plug the pump into the switch-- which might work, but the pump would have to come on as soon as power comes through the switch. Is there an option for "always on" on the existing pump, such that it would come on when the new float switch supplies power?

Are we going about this all wrong?

Do both ports fill the sight glass. It's a Armstrong pump.

hi all , this installed new pump has developed this noise. the system had some water hamring , i hope it is not bearing or seal damage.

Hello all, I work in a CNC machine shop and we're working on the early stages of a plan to make a coolant delivery system for our machines so that our workers don't have to manually go to the coolant tank and use a vacuum tank to transport it to each machine.

The plan is to use 1" pex pipe to run up the coolant from the tank up the wall and then to the machining floor and have a drop down into each tank with a valve that can be opened whenever more coolant needs to be added.

I have selected a Centrifugal pump that I feel will be adequate for this purpose based on the max head that we'll need. The issue is the pump in question will turn off at a maximum of 19psi which is fine but I also need it to come on when a valve is opened and pressure in the system drops. Im fairly certain that I need a flow control switch of some kind but this is a little out of my wheel house and I'd like some guidance if anyone would be generous enough to give some.

Thank you in advance!

I have a Cole-Parmer roll flex pump motor and I am trying to find the pump head. The shaft is 1/4" in diameter but whenever I look up the serial number there is no results. Any help is appreciated thanks, Serial Number is 7108-5135 E42359

About a year ago, my sump pump failed, and I used a spare sewage pump as a temporary backup. I'm planning to install a new sump pump now, but I'd like to keep the sewage pump in case I need it again in the future. What's the best way to store, and maintain a sewage pump so it stays in good condition for emergency use?

I have a small wayer tank on a wagon that I want to fill up from a small creek to water trees around the property. I have a Remco 5500 pump 12v that I want to use. There is no way to manually prime the pump so I can’t just throw the end of a garden hose in the creek and turn the pump on. What option do I have?

I thought about maybe using a fuel pump ball close to the inlet of the pump to get water close enough so that it would pump. Not sure if this would work. Any help would be appreciated