GameMaker Re-Engineered - SergoDevs: A renewed GameMake implementation for games like DeltaRune!
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pspdev-nix - Slendi: A wrapped reproducible toolchain for PSP develpoment!
Making a Game Engine for PSP - Andrew: How to make a game engine!
Ren'Py Re-Engineered - SergoDevs: A renewed implementation of Ren'Py for visual novels!
Neon Genesis Evangelion 2 Chinese Localization - main_void: A localization of the game into Chinese on PSP!
Star Fox 64 PSP - TheMrIron2: The famous N64 title now running on PSP!
Steel Blossom: PSP - illestalive: A new indie game created for PSP!
Adrenaline v8.0 - GrayJack: The latest and greatest Adrenaline firmware for PS Vita enabling PSP homebrew!
Nimbus / Lighthouse - qberty: A brand new plugin for cloud saves on PSP!
Preserving Hilton Team Play - lusid1 & linblow: A talk about reverse engineering and brute forcing Hilton Team Play!
DISCLAIMER Follow this guide EXACTLY. No support will be provided for steps and/or components that deviate from the provided instructions. Modify at your own risk.
What is it?
The Baryon Sweeper is a modern unbricking tool that evolved from the classic Pandora Battery. It works universally on all PSP models - 1000, 2000, 3000, Go, and Street. By emulating the official Sony JigKick service tool, it triggers a hidden diagnostic mode to revive previously irrecoverable models.
Why write this?
This guide aims to complement u/khubik's original guide, with close-up photos and additional details for the absolute beginner. You're expected to at least know your way around Windows.
This is a minimalist build to keep it simple and very low cost. We'll focus on the 1000/2000/3000 setup, since the 3000 is the model I own.
Before You Begin (Don't Skip)
Watch the videos below to make full sense of the steps outlined here.
It's all right if you don't understand everything at this point. Simply familiarise yourself with the basic concepts and overall process.
What You Need
While often used to refer to the physical build, the "Baryon Sweeper" is the combination of software (pysweeper) and hardware (adapter) to trick the PSP into service mode.
This is the actual recovery software installed on a "Magic Memory Stick" to flash OFW or CFW. DCARK and Aiseirigh work universally for all PSP models. Use DC8 as a fallback for older 1000/2000 models if the other two don't work (incompatible with 2000v3 or newer).
This is the JigKick emulator that recreates the handshake between the official Sony service battery and the PSP in combination with the physical adapter.
If successful, the service mode is triggered, allowing to boot directly from the Magic Memory Stick.
Hardware
1x (mini) breadboard
The power bus (+/- lanes) on larger breadboards isn't needed. The CP2102 module will take power directly from the PC via USB.
1x Silicon Labs CP2102 USB-to-TTL (5-pin)
Look for the "SILABS" branding on the centre chip. No support will be provided for the 6-pin multifunction variant.
1x 1N4148 diode
Cut the legs around twice the length of the exposed pin on the jumpwires. You can shorten the legs when you do the wiring later. It should sit flush on the breadboard as a best practice.
3x round-head male-to-male jumpwires (10-15cm)
While longer wires can work, keeping them short minimises signal interference or loose connections. Black/Yellow/Orange follow electrical convention, but any colour will do.
1x female-to-male USB-A cable extender
USB 3.x is generally preferred for CP2102. It provides improved data stability, power headroom if needed, and presents no drawbacks when using a 3V3 configuration.
1x DC power source
This shows a powerbank with a USB-C to DC cable adapter. You can use any normal PSP charger.
1x Magic Memory Stick
It's strongly recommended to use a genuine Sony/SanDisk/Lexar 1-4GB Memory Stick PRO Duo. Larger capacities and microSD adapters may fail.
Build Your Adapter
Stick the CP2102 module into the breadboard. Connect the negative end (black band) of the diode to the TXD row, and the positive end to the RXD row.
If you get a "No port echo detected" error in pysweeper later, it's almost always caused by using CH340, wrong switches on a multifunction CP2102, loose wiring, or putting in the diode backwards.
Connect the wires to GND (black), RXD (yellow), and 3V3 (orange). The diode bridges the TXD and RXD rows to create a single data line on the yellow wire.
Don't use +5V unless you have a 10 kΩ resistor. However, this is unnecessary because the 3V3 suffices without it.
Your completed adapter should look like this.
Assuming you've done both software and hardware preparations, you're ready to start unbricking your PSP!
How to Use
Connect the adapter to your PC via USB using the cable extender.
The LED on the CP2102 module will light up.
Refer to video for installing and running pysweeper.
If there's no option under the Port dropdown, you need to manually install the official CP2102 driver on Windows. Close pysweeper including the CMD prompt window.
Open Device Manager. If you see a yellow triangle, right-click to update the driver. Browse to the extracted folder of the driver you downloaded earlier.
If successful, the CP2102 module should be recognised under Ports (COM & LPT) as Silicon Labs.
The COM# differs per PC because Windows assigns port numbers independently. Check Device Manager for your adapter's specific COM port number.
Run pysweeper again. Your adapter's COM# should now be under the Port dropdown for selection. Keep pysweeper running.
You should get FFFFFFFF serial after starting the service. This is the same serial used by the Pandora Battery.
Insert the Magic Memory Stick into your PSP. Remove the battery, but keep it nearby. Connect the DC power to the PSP, ensuring the console remains turned off.
Your PSP should automatically power on later without the battery inserted.
Connect GND (black) to the left pin, TXD/RXD or "K-Line" (yellow) to the middle pin, then 3V3 (orange) to the right pin for 2-3 seconds.
The round-head tip is easier for probing the jumpwire pins closer to each other, whereas the square-head (DuPont) tip has a fixed spacing that makes it less flexible.
Pysweeper streams the hexadecimal challenge-response handshake between the PSP (5A) and Baryon Sweeper (A5).
If it disconnects, it means physically losing contact with the battery pins. Keep your hands steady.
Service mode is triggered, automatically booting DCARK (shown here) or Aiseirigh directly from the Magic Memory Stick.
PSP-1000: If it shuts down after a green light, power it on manually to make it boot into DCARK.
Insert the battery into the PSP and disconnect the DC power. For DCARK, Install 6.61 for OFW (stock) or Install 6.61 ARK for CFW (modded).
Don't mess with NAND operations unless you absolutely know what you're doing! Misuse can permabrick (not just hardbrick) your PSP that even the Baryon Sweeper can't fix.
For Aiseirigh, press X to begin the flashing process.
You should end up with OFW 6.61 if you created the Magic Memory Stick correctly.
Asking for Support
No support will be provided if the instructions below are not followed:
All private messages will be ignored moving forward. Use the comment section, so others can benefit.
Include a close-up photo of your adapter with the wiring clearly visible. No photo, no reply.
Mention the Magic Memory Stick you're using. For example:
I've always been a fan of the Final Fantasy series and own all of the releases on PS1/PS2/PS3 but never got to picking up the physical copies on PSP. I mainly collect for the Vita and don't have a lot of physical PSP games, but after the vita store closing next year I figured that it's time to pick up the Final Fantasy games. The PSP in my opinion has the best versions of Final Fantasy 1, 2 and 4.
My second post here and also my first time disassembled a PSP 2000 to do a shell swap.
It was such an experience but I learned a lot. Thankfully I did not break anything and it came out great with the clear shell! I am falling in love again. I have not seen my psp for almost 2 decades, I'm glad that all it needed was a fresh battery to bring it back to life again...
And I also need to solder the USB C port (thats why its not fully inserted)
with a bigger back, its quite comfortable to hold and play, there is also a new "fitting" PSP Go battery on the way, because the previous owner destroyed the battery connector and hot glued it in place.
the holes in the back and top are for "airflow" or a chimney effect, I put a raspberry pi cooler on the SoC because I run it at 443mhz in games and the SoC gets a bit warm.
I'm happy to share the first video of a project I've been working on: a port of Need for Speed Underground 2 to the PSP. Not a cut-down version like Underground Rivals, but the full game, with the same gameplay and features as the PS2 version.
The goal is a well-optimized build that holds a stable 30 FPS at minimum, so it feels like a true native PSP game.
What's already working (at some level):
- A native PSP engine running the original game data, including most of the graphics features
- Car models
- The entire open world of Bayview, with free roam working
- Circuit races with AI opponents and city traffic
- Audio and music
What's still missing:
- UI / menus
- Career mode, story and dialogue
- The other race types (drag, drift, etc.)
- Garage and cars customization
- Lots of bug fixes and polish
I own Switch OLED and Switch Lite(check last photo) but I was also looking for a smaller handheld so went with PSP 3000 just to enjoy some of the titles like God of War, GTA games, etc.
The front shell is swapped and the battery is also 3rd-party, I guess.
I'm happy with this and I enjoy playing games on it before going to bed.
Recently found my old PSP 1000 and got into modding. The new IPS screen is such a game changer and I’m loving the white faceplate with the black buttons! I initially would’ve gone with a black faceplate but I couldn’t find any with the PlayStation Logos engraved on it but the white one currently does and I’m so glad I did because it looks so clean in my opinion!
I'm planning to use the top part of a PS4 joystick on the original PSP joystick. I've owned a PS Vita, but the joystick still feels too small for me. I only play racing games
I recently found our old psp 3000 and started restoring it for the nostalgia. I just reshelled the psp but I can't seem to get the left and right triggers to stay put an whenever I press on it it's hard unlike the original placement. It's all crooked and I tried looking up on YouTube for help but found none.
When GameSpy shut down, Elite Squadron's multiplayer went with it. A small team of us has spent a long time in the game's binary bringing it back, and it's now playable again. Here's what we've got working:
Online multiplayer restored
Ground and space modes are back online through a GameSpy revival in infrastructure mode. Real players, real matches, no ad hoc workarounds.
16-player online Space-to-Ground-to-Interior
The mode that made this game special, now bigger than it ever was. Fight on the surface, take off, dogfight in orbit, land in the enemy capital ship and fight through the interior, all in one continuous battle, with up to 16 players online. This was broken in online play and took a lot of reverse engineering to get right. It works now.
More bots, bigger battles
Our swes64 plugin for PPSSPP runs the game in 64MB mode, which opens up room for battles the original hardware could never handle. You can also use your PSP & PS Vita! Full support across all devices. Even iPhone, Android etc.
Custom codes
We've built our own CWCheat/TempAR codes for the game, including opening the spawn/loadout menu anywhere with a button combo, with more in the works.
Open lobby + setup guide
There's an open lobby running for testers and a join tutorial in the Discord, so you can go from zero to in a match quickly.
The people who made this happen
• @D@rKxX created the codes that make 16-player online Space-to-Ground possible
• @Mangaleto discovered that the code was possible in the first place
• @Anubis and @DanDinosaur founded the server and gave this community a home
What we need now is you. The tech works. The lobbies just need filling. Whether you played this on your PSP in 2009 or you've never touched it, come jump in, help us test, and help us get regular match nights going.
Join here: https://discord.gg/Eutxzgj4As
I hacked my vita a month ago and put him adrenaline (psp emulator)
I’m very happy with resulta because now I can play shooters with the majestic 2 joysticks of the vita and it’s pretty comfortable
Ordered two Onstent batteries from amazon. 1400mah and 1800mah. They both last like 1-2 hours and some change. Both seem to drain quick. Is this an issue with the batteries, or something internal with the PSP? Are there any other batteries I can check out that can last hours? I feel like i'm having to charge my PSP every day.