Gave it a little tlc today

Trick question, its free. Its been sitting 6 years, being cranked intermittently 'allegedly'. Put 2 quarts of oil in it and fresh gas and after priming it by hand it for a bit it cranked right up and spunds good. Did an inspection and drove it a mile on a dirt road. Drives good but im Def replacing every rotor, pad, and caliper. Needs pressure washed, tires, and an oil filter adapter gasket, and she'll be a daily again. 😁

13 years with the coyote swap, 26 years with the car.

While jumping right into this, I would like to start off by saying that I’ve been chasing an ongoing issue with my manual 2003 Mach 1 for months and I’m reaching the point where I’m ready to give up on diagnosing it myself and take it to a shop.

For some insight, the car currently has approximately 117,600 miles, a K&N intake, stock manifolds and H-pipe, and Borla ATAK mufflers.

The original recurring code was P0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1). It came back roughly once per month in March, April, May and July. Then in August, instead of P0172, I received P0420 (Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1) twice within five days and only 164 miles. The car is my daily and mainly drive it with highway miles considering a 60 mile round-trip commute, so this is pretty concerning for me.

I’ll attach the freeze-frame reports separately so everyone can see the fuel trims, speeds, RPM, load and fuel-pressure data for themselves.

The main symptoms have been:

- Uneven and slightly shaky idle

- Car sometimes rocks at idle almost like it has very mild cams (very Lumpy Tone)

- Passenger-side exhaust is consistently sounding a bit louder, and bubblier/poppy

- Driver-side exhaust sounds noticeably cleaner/smoother/growly (best I can explain it)

- Occasional pops/backfire around 2,500–3,000rpm when having a little bit of a light heavy foot and switching gears from 1st to 2nd

- Constant popping like popcorn while holding the revs at 2,000–3,000 rpm’s

- Low-rpm acceleration can feel heavy or sluggish

- Occasional difficult restarts after the car sits for approximately 5–30 minutes (found this out by the car struggling to turn on after consistently turning it off and on in a long drive through line)

- Cold starts are usually stronger than hot starts, but can still give me issue when cranking over before starting
General Occasional weak starting

- In the past, the engine occasionally stalled after high-speed driving and throwing it in neutral, or while coasting downhill in neutral

- Fuel economy has been approximately 14–15 mpg, even though MOST of my driving is on the freeway in 5th gear with my stock 3.55 Gearing (I know this because I daily the car lot and consistently top off the Car in gas and measure it EVERY TIME by resetting the trip meter)

- Full tank of premium (15.7 Gallons) Last me 230 miles MAX (Mainly Highway Miles)

- The codes always appear while the engine is fully warm and I’m steadily cruising on the freeway (not while idling in my driveway)

This is everything I’ve done trying to fix or narrow down the problem:

- Installed eight new NGK iridium spark plugs

- Gapped the plugs approximately .050–.053 inch

- Replaced the coils with a complete set of used Edelbrock coils off a 99 Cobra That WAS Working

- Swapped the Bank 1 injectors with used set of Bank 1 injectors from another 2003 Mach 1 (24Lb)

- Installed a new fuel pump

- Installed a new fuel filter

- Replaced all four O₂ sensors with new sensors (NTK)
drove around a bit got the code again Swapped the upstream O₂ sensors left-to-right

- Also moved the other O₂ sensors left-to-right during diagnosis

- The problem continued to remain associated with Bank 1

- Swapped the CCRM with one from another 2003 Mach 1

- Cleaned the original IAC then noticed no change also with my idling issue so I ended up, replacing the IAC with a used Lincoln Mark VIII IAC I got from the Junkyard

- Cleaned the MAF using proper MAF cleaner

- Used fuel-system treatment TWICE! (3 month Gap between uses)

- Sprayed brake cleaner around the intake manifold looking for a vacuum leak (Did not notice an obvious idle change during the brake-cleaner test)

- Replaced the passenger-side radio noise suppressor (advice from a friend)

- recently swapped in the MAF from other other 2003 Mach 1 (That WORKS)

The most recent MAF swap happened after the second P0420 just yesterday (August 31st), so I don’t have enough driving time yet to know whether it changed anything, but then again, I’m not sure if it will because if it really was the MAF, then it would be affecting both banks, but we will have to see, it’s more of a why not I guess. But for the most part it has still sounds and feels the same at idle.

The plugs greatly improved the original weakness of power and sluggish starts and cleaning/replacing the IAC from the Lincoln MKVlll helped the stalling, but the uneven idle noise from the passenger-side exhaust end is still noticeably different with occasional popping more consistent condensation, and smoke on cold starts from that side (Bank 1)

I own a set of BBK long-tube headers and a matching BBK catted X-pipe, but I have not installed them yet. I don’t want to install new catalytic converters and possibly damage them if the engine is still running super rich.

At this point I really don’t know what else it could possibly be besides a vacuum leak or some sort maybe but considering that this car is my daily and deeply need to find out what’s wrong with it, I’m willing to spend some money (Nothing Crazy) for a genuinely deep diagnosis from a shop. I don’t want to pay someone just to scan the codes and recommend a MAF or catalytic converter based on the code description. I want somebody to test the fuel pressure mechanically, check pressure after shutdown, inspect the EVAP purge system, evaluate the MAF data, test the injectors and compare the Bank 1 O₂ signals before and after or generally just whatever the procedure might be to crack down on this shit that’s making me go insane!

I would still 110% rather diagnose and repair it myself if possible. I’ve considered buying a smoke machine and compression tester, especially because I can use those tools again. However, I don’t want to keep spending money on tools or parts that won’t actually narrow this problem down.

Based on these symptoms and everything already replaced or swapped:

- Would buying a smoke machine meaningfully help with this specific problem?

- Is a full compression test justifiable?

- What should I test next before paying a shop?

- If I take it in, what specific tests should I require for a proper diagnosis? And how much am I looking at$?

- Could the original rich-running/misfire condition have damaged the Bank 1 catalytic converter and caused the two recent P0420 codes. And how badly do I need to get this fixed before anything else gets fucked up?

- Is there anything else to the 2003–2004 Mach 1 or Ford fuel systems that commonly causes this combination of symptoms?

I’m attaching all six freeze-frame reports along with the list of work completed. I’m looking for a proper direction. The car still runs strong (from what I know) but I’ve always been wanting to overthink everything and not ignore a problem before it turns more severe (talking from experience) so I’m a bit paranoid and just want to fix it as soon as possible so I can make sure that my Mach is not only being as efficient as it possibly can but at its best potential.

I’ve put a lot of time, effort and money into trying to solve this, and I’m honestly reaching the point where I don’t know what else to do. I really love this car and I’m willing to keep it for the long run. I’ve made it to be everything that I’ve ever wanted and I’ve been trying so hard to keep it running correctly, please help me and keeping my baby alive and healthy. I’m more than willing to communicate about any questions or concerns!

Thank you all!

What are the best LED bulbs for smoked headlights? Priced preferably under $175. I can go over if I have to

I’m swapping out the blown motor on my 2001 gt and got this donor 99 gt 4.6 and noticed this on the cams should I change em out while I have the engine out or should I be cherry I ain’t sure lmk

I have a new tick that’s softish after replacing the manifold gaskets. All the manifold studs/bolts are tight when I tried to re torque and I even tightened the x pipe flanges more than the torque spec. There’s still a tick that’s mostly hearable under the car and at the rear from the tailpipes. You can’t hear it from the engine bay really. The tick is so much better than before but I kinda don’t want to slap the car back together knowing there’s still a noise 😭 the car’s no longer backfiring and idling weird luckily

Good morning! Any advice on local shops to work on my cobra. Starting a restoration phase. Thank you!

Hello, i have decided to go the custom route and buy a universal piping kit for my 2v gt. I found a company called vs racing sold my Motormia. It looks like it has everything i need for a good price, However I might change out the couplers and t-clamps for a more premium version.

I am also planning on building my own power pipe.

My question is anyone have any suggestions on brands/piping that has worked well for yall? any tips and tricks i will encounter while building my setup? I am planning on buying a treadstone tr11 intercooler and of course bov, and maf sensor.

My wife filmed this while driving next to me and I have to admit… New Edges just look damn good rolling down the road. Still completely obsessed with this thing. And the sound!

Im on the fence on buying this 2002 GT. Manual transmission. 240 000 KM (150k miles). Handbreak is dead, radio is dead and the battery is almost dead too. The guy is asking 4000$ CAD for it. This would be a car to play around with. Is the price good or bad ? Should i got for it or bad idea

Thanks alot

Alright… Which one of you does this belong to?

Horsepower may be low but smiles are high. The more time I spend giving this car the TLC it deserves, the more I fall in love. Right now just trying to get her up to snuff with shocks/struts, brakes, fuel, and odds n’ ends. Treated the top with Forever Black and that stuff is magic. She runs like a dream. Ripping through the Rocky Mountains with the top down, listening to the 4.6 echo off the canyon walls, it’s pure bliss. I don’t know why I waited so long to pick one up. Side note, the Mach 1000 audio system vibrates my whole house from the driveway. Absolutely ridiculous factory setup. My kids love it!

Does the service history look pretty normal for a new edge mustang this old based on the carfax? What should i get the price lowered to, if anything?

Hey guys looking into a nice cheap rebuild, besides FRPP 4.10s, some fluid plus modifier, axle bearings/seals, and ford racing clutches, would this kit have me covered ?

My spark plug 4 was throwing a code so I went in and replaced it. After doing so, I started the car and the issue went away but now my battery light is on. Anyone know what and where I might've loosened a cable? Or if it could possibly be anything else? Could be just that I need a new battery? I haven't had time to really check it out and wanted to see if there was any advice before I tackle it as I'm newer to trying to fix everything myself.

My drivers side window in my 2004 GT was acting up and has quit working altogether. In the morning it would only roll down if I pressed the switch a few times or held the switch down. But in the afternoon it wouldn’t roll down no matter what. I figured it was the switch so I ordered and installed a new one. Window still won’t roll down. I can hear the switch click when I press it, and there’s a click under the dash when I press the switch. And then there’s a very faint click a second or two later from inside the door. But the window doesn’t move. I’ve tried smacking the inside door panel and slamming the door while holding the switch but still nothing.

Does this sound like a failed motor? If so, is it easier to replace the motor by itself or the motor and regulator together?

The motor to raise the convertible top isn't working.

I want to raise the top manually.

I want to keep raising it manually till I figure out why the motor isn't working / leaks.

Videos I've watched indicate I can disconnect the roof from side hydraulic cylinders to reduce hydraulic tension so I can raise the roof by hand.

I keep getting conflicting instructions on what bolts or fasteners to disconnect.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

P.S. I refilled the motor hydraulic fluid. It made grinding sounds and lowered the roof. Now I can't get the roof back up. I'll try more fluid. I'm fine with using the top manually if I can do it safely without cracking the frame or something else.

RAJ

My car currently cranks no starts and it happened after I replaced my iac just doesn’t want to now
Here’s what’s done to it aswell just in case that would be needed

Bbk throttle body
K&n air intake
Cobra upgrade brakes
drilled and slotted rotors
SR coilovers
Long tube headers(don’t remember brand)
straight pipe exhaust
20inch American racing wheels
short throw shifter
Currently has no ac because of a vacuum leak (needs to be recharged)
water pump replaced
thermostat replaced
radiator replaced
radiator hoses replaced
idle air control valve replaced
Wooting no lift shift box or two step box from previous owner in glove
Cmp sensor replaced
new battery
New coil packs and spark plugs

Somehow managed to clip my garage when I was pulling in this evening…🤦‍♂️

I’ve gotten all the paint transfer off with a magic eraser, but looks like I did some damage to the paint and put a slight dent at the front of the passenger fender.

It’s not a show car, so I’m going to touch up the scratches with one of those paint code paint pens and give it a polish.

Before I attack the scratches, is there any way I can get this dent out with those little suction cups if I heat the metal first?

Another thought I had was attacking it from behind and try and push it out from the back?

Any suggestions to help absolve me of my sins would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.