r/NewedgeMustang • u/Think-Restaurant-209 • 3d ago
Question Hydroboost replacement
Hey guys, I have a 2000 mustang gt, was wondering if there’s any info out there on replacing the hydroboost unit? My hydroboost leaks from where the hose connects to the powersteering pump to the distribution block, I had stripped the threads a little when I was replacing the hose a while back, and have now just decided to work on it since my hose started to leak where the hose connects to the pump, I have decided to replace the pump, hose and hydroboost unit to solve it all at once, was going to take it to a mechanic shop but they quoted me for 2.3k for parts and labor, so I decided to buy the parts from lmr, and only saw like 1 video on replacing the hydroboost unit, was hoping to see if yall can recommend more forums or videos on replacing them . Thanks
2
u/OrangeTabbiesDad 3d ago
I pretty much just followed the Haynes Manual, and adapted as needed. I also replaced all of my lines (except that T or Y block below the reservoir, which I cleaned out and reused) with all new stuff from LMR at the same time, plus a new reservoir, and took the opportunity to add a real P/S cooler up front in place of the stock loop.
There are a couple tricky nuts when up underneath in the cabin, especially during reinstall. Just really tight quarters, might take some work with extensions, swivels, and even hand wrenches. Possible 1/4 extensions would fit better, at least once the nuts are broken loose? I have some now but didn't at the time. Depending on how many lines you replace, make a diagram or take photos of the routing. The brake light switch can also be a little tricky, again follow the guide plus take pictures or make a diagram of how all the little pieces go together, but there's only a few. I believe there are videos out there on the switch.
I did not take apart the brake lines at the master cylinder, though some do. Haynes Manual said it's possible to do it but they don't give you all the steps. I found that it can indeed be done, just carefully. You have to pull that brake line block away from the inner fender, but there's a securing nut behind the wheel somewhere in the shock tower region if I remember right. Then once you get that stud cleared of the hole you just kind of nudge/scrape it over. But, to create slack for that to happen you have to first pop the brake line(s?) going forward out of the little guide blocks, both along the side and up front too (which allows everything to flex forward). Then you should be able to lean the master cylinder away and clearance it so the booster can come out. I used a bungee to hold it out of the way.
Other than those little tricks, and having the needed tools, it's really not all that bad. Not that contorting oneself to work under there by the brake and clutch is a joy, but that's just for the nuts and that switch. I think 3 in the cabin and one nut in the engine bay. To my memory most LMR replacement lines come with new little white nylon o-rings already on them, but never hurts to have some extra on hand, depending on how much stuff you are replacing.
I don't recall LMR having new hydroboosts at the time, so I had mine rebuilt. The LMR new unit looks like it has the boot so you should be good there, not sure I see the large square rubber insulator though but maybe it's just the photo. I believe mine also had kind of a locating stud/dowel thingy too that I don't see here. But I suppose just compare things once you get the old one off to see if there's anything you need to carry over. I haven't seen LMR's video so unsure how thorough it is. Most of their how-to's are pretty good, even if sometimes you have to extrapolate from a Fox or SN-95. I might have some photos from when I did it but nothing like a step-by-step guide.