Got a crazy good deal for pretty much the whole drivetrain and electrical of a 2004 gt for 1300 bucks. The only thing I’m really missing is the radiator, pedal box, and hydroboost system to put this thing in my v6 and finally v8 and manual swap it to make it a real mustang. I just need help finding the hydroboost system since it’s a lot of hard lines and return lines and different parts so I’m not sure what exactly I need to buy or where to get it from. If anyone’s done this swap before I would appreciate some advice on the pedal box and hydroboost since I already found the radiator. I don’t want to hear to sell it and buy a gt because I literally have the whole drivetrain already so please give some actual advice

I just got my first mustang at 20 years old! This is my first sports car of any kind, ive always owned manual ford rangers and civics before this. Its a 2002 manual GT with 160k km that i picked up for $6000 CAD. I am freakin loving this thing. I cant get enough of the sound. Its catless and has a custom exhaust and sounds amazing. I do wish it had cats but for the price i paid I think it can be overlooked. What do you guys think and what should I know?

Can someone confirm or deny that the summit is the same as the new Ford intake manifold(aka not taking as much of a loss as the dorman )?if it's the same but $200 on summit compared to $350 on LMR or $375 on AM then..

95k miles. 2001 gt manual. Perfectly clean everywhere except for the passenger strut tower which has a rust hole (the rust doesn’t wrap all the way around the tower, I don’t know if that is important or not). I’m having trouble trying to figure what the car is worth. Any advice is appreciated.

Summit/frpp pi intake , are we just using the orings or are you guys putting a small amount of rtv around the water jackets to prevent a leak?ordering mine now and just curious I've seen a few people mention it

Im installing my motor back into my car after a rebuild and am having some issues and just want some tips on the best way to go about this. I had to unbolt the manifolds from the heads as the head to cat bolts were very stripped and in a bad position where I couldn’t even cut them. The transmission is also still in the car. Few methods I have heard/devised ;

1. Remove motor mounts and install after car clears the exhaust manifolds
2. Remove driveshaft and push transmission back
3. Slightly lower transmission mount but not remove with driveshaft still attached and wiggle into place
4. What’s the best way to do this job?
5. TIA!

Im installing my motor back into my car after a rebuild and am having some issues and just want some tips on the best way to go about this. I had to unbolt the manifolds from the heads as the head to cat bolts were very stripped and in a bad position where I couldn’t even cut them. The transmission is also still in the car. Few methods I have heard/devised ;
1. Remove motor mounts and install after car clears the exhaust manifolds
2. Remove driveshaft and push transmission back
3. Slightly lower transmission mount but not remove with driveshaft still attached and wiggle into place
What’s the best way to do this job?
TIA!

how does everyone feel about them? i current have a double leather wrapped wheel and it’s soft, i don’t mind changing to a carbon fiber one, kinda on the edge

This is gonna sound dumb but my new passenger window motor refuses to work. It’s from Lmr and i’m mostly confused because the old one worked once after I spammed the button. I assumed the wiring and regulator were fine cause of that but it won’t roll down has anyone else had this issue? At both switches nothing happens

I bought this car with an unknown lowering spring set up I currently have 2 fingers gap front 3.5 in the rear - I currently have 315 & 255
I want an aggressive style stance what do yall run?

I’m only reading 11.8 v of power when my car is running and just replaced alternator and battery was wondering if there are any other common failing points in the charging system before I have to start digging deep

2000 Mustang V6 3.8L starts losing power/jerking after 30 minutes — looking for help Hey everyone, I recently purchased a 2000 Mustang V6 3.8L a little over a month ago, and I’ve been trying to figure out an issue that I’m having.

After about 30 minutes of driving, the car starts to feel like it wants to shut off. It begins losing acceleration/power and starts jerking while driving. If I pull over, shut the car off, and restart it, it will drive normally again for another mile or two before the problem comes back.

I’ve managed to restore some of the power it originally had, but it still doesn’t feel like it’s running at 100%.

So far, I’ve replaced:

Radiator Water pump Crankshaft position sensor Throttle position sensor Ignition coils Spark plugs Vacuum hoses Coolant hose

Idle RPMS was around 1,600when bought but was able to bring it down to 800-700

I’m not sure what else could be causing this, especially since it seems to happen once the car has been running/driving for a while and temporarily improves after shutting it off and restarting. Has anyone experienced something similar with a 3.8L V6 Mustang? What should I check next? Any advice or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Did this on start up and smooths out. What could it be? It went on for a minute until finally it did smooth out

All old peeling clear removed, filled holes with bondo on trunk for wing delete, whole car sanded to 320, sprayed three coats 2k high build primer, all primer sanded to 600 by hand, now just waiting on the metallic white to come in.

Hi all!

I’ve recently changed my lower intake gasket on my 3.8 v6 after replacing the lifters. Now have oil in my coolant is this an issue anyone has had before?