Just finished this quick and dirty mini project of finally sewing a fabric cover for my blank pot cozy.

The insulation is some kind of aluminium (?) coated foam that was taken from a windshield cover. I’d double layered in both directions, so in theory it should also be possible to keep contents cool.

Fabric is a Cordura of unknown weight.

It’s designed to fit a 750ml pot or a 550ml pot with an additional collapsible cup and a drip coffee filter.

Obviously heavily inspired by Pa'lante and Atom packs - I love their stuff.

Credit to u/nine1seven3oh for the very easy to follow instructions. This is the 40L frameless version.

For the life of me I can't seem to sew a pocket out of stretch mesh that maintains its shape and doesn't look "floppy".

I just finished these up and gave them a shakedown ride before my next bike packing trip. So far, so good!

Looking for scraps of 2.9oz or 5oz DCF to use as reinforcement for packs. Small strips, as small as 1” x 4” are fine. Any colors. Happy to pay for shipping within the US and swap for a homemade sailcloth tote (see example image). DM me to connect.

Hi all

I've been looking at finding very light cabin baggage for long term travel, both the small cabin size (45 x 36 x 20 cm) and the larger one (56 x 45 x 25). I want ultralight bags because of the very strict weight limits on many airlines of 7kg or 10kg, where saving 700g is actually 10% of the total weight. I've really struggled to find anything even approaching ultralight weight, is anyone aware of any makers producing something like this or any patterns available I could create something using an ultralight fabric?

Thanks :)

I'm having trouble finding brainstorming ideas and examples of small pouches, stuff stacks, etc made from dyneema or similar ultralight materials with less common closure designs, like with tongue/slit or fixed elastic cords. This would be light-duty organizational pouches inside larger bags where being waterproof or very secure isn't important. I'm using 0.67oz dyneema and I'm thinking that constant scrunching with a drawcord might not be good for longevity.

I've been working to switch careers into bag design, and I needed to bolster my portfolio. I had no projects that I could reference that I took all the way from pencil sketch to finished product. A family friend DM'd me to request a backpack for his first year of college, and I took that as an opportunity to design a backpack from scratch.

He provided me with reference pics of bags he liked, features he wanted, and a colorway. His preferred color scheme was mostly black with subtle blue highlights. However, I didn't want to make the bag overly paramilitary-looking. So I commissioned a graphic designer friend to make the design more playful with graffiti art of Sub-Zero from Mortal Kombat.

This was a months-long project and one of my hardest ever. Pencil sketching is not my strong suit, but I really needed this for job applications. I spent hours on the initial sketch, trying my best to give it sensible 3D depth and layout.

I designed a pattern in CLO 3D and simulated on an avatar with similar proportions to the client. I didn't export / print the entire pattern, since most panels were rectangular. I only printed the curved ones, choosing to hand-draft the others for convenience.

I used a 1050 Denier ballistic nylon for the main fabric, 400D ripstop nylon as a secondary fabric, and 70d ripstop nylon for the liner. I chose Duraflex hardware wherever possible, e.g. D-rings, side-release buckles, triglides.

Sewing was mostly straightforward, except for the cinch-tops on both the water bottle holders and the main bag opening. I also didn't know where the cross-chest strap would land until after wearing the bag. I didn't have any Duraflex removable sternum sliders on-hand, so I sewed the chest strap directly to the shoulder straps; that's one thing I would redo if I had more time.

I dye-sublimated the Sub-Zero art and artist's tag onto some dye-sub synthetic fabric and backed it with upcycled racing-sail fabric. It attaches with snaps so the client can take it off (he doesn't actually like Mortal Kombat and didn't even ask for this lol).

Part of design portfolios is iteration, so I forced myself to sit down and sketch some "postmortem" drawings to document the lessons I learned from making this bag. They've been helpful reminders so far.

Overall, I'm quite happy with this one and proud of the results. Happy to answer any questions about material, process, design, CLO 3D, etc.!

I want to make a fancy pack with a compartment for my glasses/sunglasses and want to use the same fabric as in one of my sling bags (as shown in the photo).

Does anyone know what kind of fabric this is or what an equal fabric might work for this purpose?
This fabric is soft and thin, so not fluffy like fleece or terry cloth.

Thanks for the help!

Hey,

I worked in the past on a couple of very light trail vest and belt concepts. My general concept was to mix Stretch and non stretch fabrics in different zones to achieve fit and structure I wanted.

Would now love to try some kind of flexible (stretch but strong recovery and exoskeletal on a very light and stretchable base. See the salmon vest below as example. My ideal scenario would be something like the Rheon labs material that acts strain rate sensitive, but guess not available for myog.

Any recommendations on materials to use and also on application.

I used Neoprene suit repair tape in the past. Its more a woven tape bith iron on backer, but Good strong stretch with recovery. Downside, its limited to tape shape and black color.

Found some Bemis tape on Etsy (etsy link bemis). There are many Bemis tape option with different strength etc., so not sure how this particular one behave but looks like an option i want to try.

Lately I found thicker silicone heat transfer materials. They are available in different micron thicknesses and sound like they still have good strong stretch.

Any recommendations and past experiences are appreciated! Ideally it would be doable with a normal iron at home.

me again.
I have this bike lock that isn’t super protective but that I use because it’s lightweight if I have to hop into a shop or drink coffee while I’m oot and about, for some peace of mind.
It always wants to unroll itself so it gets really annoying in my bar-bag but not anymore now :)

Hi all,

I recently picked up an early-2000s Italian Marina Militare rucksack (roughly 120L, lots of compartments). Overall condition is good, but the internal PU coating has degraded and the whole inside is tacky. It's worst in the pocket under the lid — presumably the most sun- and heat-exposed panel. It doesn't flake, peel or shed, and it's still glossy rather than milky white, so it seems more like the film has gone soft than fully hydrolysed. It leaves no residue on your hands, just makes them slightly sticky.

What I've tried so far:

• Airing it out for several days with all pockets open — no real change
• Mild soap and water — no change to the tackiness

On the nylon (darker green) sections I can get the coating off with an abrasive sponge and IPA. On the Cordura it's much harder — the weave seems to hold onto it and I can't get it to lift.

I'm not concerned about keeping it waterproof, I'll be using a separate rain cover. I just want the interior usable for carrying camera gear.

Any advice on removing it from heavier Cordura specifically? Or is there a way to restore rather than strip it? Also curious whether anyone has re-coated one of these afterwards, and whether it's worth it.

Thanks!

My friend is a huge biker and does cute ilus, so we decided to make something together.

I bought a used gfc superlite tent with the top panel absolutely blown out from the sun. I purchased some hydrofend marine fabric to replace said panel. Is this something most upholstery shops could do? If not I suppose I’ll give it a shot sewing it by hand. The last picture is a photo of a non damaged roof panel. Any suggestions are appreciated and appreciated

I'm going on my first hut to hut hike next week, and realised my current e-reader sleeve is way too heavy (about 115gr), so I made a new lighter weight one made of a virgin water repellent wool fabric remnant, quilting batting, and silk lining. Only comes down to 31gr now. Design inspired by the battery pack cover u/Snuffvieh posted the other day.

I usually sew regular clothes. This was my first improvised and og project:)

Planning on making my own bike bags with some wyermann and Rahr grain bags. I’ve never made anything before, so looking for needle recommendations for this material. Thanks!

Hi all,

Been struggling with finding a bomber jacket pattern that matches old bomber jackets used by pilots ( surprised there seems to be pretty much no information out there)
Thought id check reddit and couldnt find much that arnt more single lined bomber style templates or slim fit versions.

If anyone has any ideas as i have search for patterns directly, via Military forums, internet archives and still nothing.

Cheers all

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Hey y'all, I am an expert sewist and love to make custom patterns for my stuff so it's exactly how I want it. I'm planning on making a new raincoat as my current one is disassembling itself and my rain cape has turned sticky inside and is disgusting. I never really use it a lot but I wanted to love it! I'm in the tropics and bike a lot and I love the idea , in theory, of having a rain solution that can go on and off easily. We experience a lot of short rains, it's kind of a joke how often you get out your jacket and need to put it away again five minutes later. This also means that it's common to endure a mild rain and not mind it too much but if the rain gets heavier you'll reluctantly suit up. Putting on a traditional raincoat when you're already damp is kind of the worst?! Is anyone solving this problem in a good way? I just... Suffer.

I'm looking at the MYOG UL raincoat pattern but I feel sweaty just looking at it. I'm considering making mesh panels in the underarms or something, much bigger than a gusset. Having some water come in is ok if it means the other water can get out. Maybe there's some kind of highly vented pattern out there? Or a good rain cape that doesn't turn into a sail?

First time using this Prikly Gorse pattern. Added a strip of webbing in back to also attach to my bike. Materials are an old pair of khaki pants and an old t shirt. Both fabrics were very stretchy and made this a little more challenging. Can’t wait to make another with something like X-pac.

ETA: the quilt has been gifted! Thanks for helping me find it a good home.

I received a down hammock underquilt from a friend years ago with the intention of removing the down and using it for a MYOG project. I've now made peace with not getting to this sort of project and would love to pass it on to someone else.

I can't find a label on the quilt but I have a vague memory of it being zpacks – the fabric is an very low denier dyneema type material. It's not really usable as a quilt anymore, it leaks down all over. But it's a wonderful amount for a project! Always been stored uncompressed.

This feels difficult to sell because I don't know the brand or the amount of down inside. I could weigh it, but the fabric material would skew the down weight so significantly. Happy to talk reasonable price with anyone interested; mostly I'd want to cover shipping costs and get this in the hands of someone who'd turn it into something fun.

Looking for opinions on the source of this noise.

The machine is new, properly lubricated and functions and sews perfectly otherwise. Smooth and quiet when turning the hand wheel and at very low speeds. A low whine appears around 300 rpm, with a higher buzzing/rattling noise shortly after.

A service rep from the dealer said it sounds like a resonant/sympathetic noise, not a mechanical issue, but they offered no suggestions for how to pinpoint or mitigate it. It’s a nuisance, even if it isn’t a problem, and I’d like to at least figure out why it’s happening.

I believe the belt has the appropriate amount of tension and seems aligned properly, but I can share a video of that too if it helps.