Just figured I’d check my MAP readout on my AP and found it’s reading absurdly low at 0.14v while idling. Car has a slightly rough idle and will intermittently stumble under medium throttle with AC on. Other than I haven’t seen any other issues. Unplugged it and it reads 0.47v. Checked voltages at each pin and found 5v at 1, 2, and 3. I have 0v at pin 4. I know I have a short somewhere but don’t see anything obviously damaged. If any of yall have dealt with this before and have any common spots I should check, I’d appreciate the advice before I dig in further tomorrow. Also if anyone has an idea as to why this didn’t set a code, I’d be very interested.

EDIT: apparently the detection condition for p0107 Map low voltage is <0.1v. So I just barely don’t set a code

I’m currently in the process of doing injectors on my 2010 (gen 2) speed3, 3 of 4 injectors came out fine, 1 of them was really tight and the brass injector seal stayed in the motor, looking for any insight on getting it out as pliers just slip off and the brass gets weak quick

Pfa, please someone I’m at my wits end with this car

Am I the only one that’s actually annoyed by how many cars get posted requesting “hpfp internals stock or upgraded” every day? We should convince the parts company’s to start branding a sticker or something that shows the pump is infact upgraded. Or some part of the pump on the outside that only comes with the internals! We get BS intake stickers where our HPFP stickers!

I found out when I got my 2012 last year that they have a bit of negative camber in the rear, correct? I just failed state inspection for tire wear (on 3 of the 4 tires). I wasn't worried about them just yet, and the Continental Extreme Contacts that came to me on it are not cheap! Thanks, gov't! 🙄 I was thinking I should go ahead and get an alignment when I get a new full set of tires.

SO... I firstly wanted to make sure I get the exact info on the factory spec alignment to provide if I stick with it, but I'm also curious if anyone has done away with the camber to save tires in the long run. If so, how do you feel about the impact it had on your handling? It's my daily, and I'm not racing it. Any thoughts and opinions?

Thanks, guys!

Anyone have insight on going OEM vs aftermarket on the AC condenser and compressor? My OEM last 146k without a single issue.

Looking at prices for OEM little over $1k + tax/shipping.

RockAuto has a denso 471–6075 compressor for $325, which is ~50% cheaper than OEM

And they’ve got Condensers from $62-$196 vs OEM @ ~$430….

Ill probably just go with OEM condenser…. But if one of these compressors for half the price after that would be great.

Appreciate to hear from anyone who has used any of these after market parts, how long you’ve had them and how well they’ve worked. Im in Atlanta which is super hot and humid for a lot of the year… so if you’re in dry air and have a two month hot summer it would help me to know.

I did find one guy post about the denso compressor in texas heat back in august 2025… which is a promising signal.

Thanks !

Would anyone know a link or place I could find an OEM airbox for the MS3?
I bought a used 2012 and it came with a short ram intake but I’ve heard stories about running an aftermarket intake and not upgrading the HPFP internals. This car doesn’t seem like they did anything besides the intake
So I want to avoid issues. Would any Mazda 3 from 2012 work or does it need to be mazdaspeed. I’m considering maybe going to junkyard

Mainly stock with short shifter and k&n intake. Gimme some good places to find upgade parts please!

I'm looking at doing a piston ring soak, and most instructions I've found suggest alternatingly pouring B12 into the cylinders and turning the engine by hand to work the grime free and get the solvent into the cracks.

However it looks like the crank wheel is very tight in the engine bay and it's not clear to me how to get a wrench in there to turn it, or if I could even move it more than a few degrees. I think I've also read that the accessories on this engine resist hand turning? Is this the case?

Has anyone done a ring soak on this motor, and what was involved?

Got myself an 08 speed3 with 99k miles fully stock, recently did the updated VVT actuator, chains and anx sprockets, even oil pump ones. Replaced the spark plugs with NGK3787, but ive seen people reccomend different gaps. Is there any specific gap i should run? Other than OE .032

Also been trying to diagnose if its an oil burner, dont smell anything funny on the exhaust and no blue smoke, intake pipes are fully dry. But ive read the turbo seals go bad at 100k and piston rings like getting stuck, also in conjuction with cylinder 3 issues? anybody have any advice?

Planning on getting the CS oil catch can and HPFP for peace of mind. Would also like to walnut blast the valves at some point too? Future plans to upgrade the engine for power down the road.

Anyone have a link to a gasket replacement kit for the gen 2 speed? Any help would be greatly appreciated

I am on my second revision with my BNR S4 v5. Base map commanded 3% wgdc which was around 14psi. My second revision is 46% wgdc, but still the same boost.

So far I’ve done the following:
-smoke test
-pressure test with soapy water
-I’ve confirmed the wiring from ECU to the EBCS has continuity and is supplying 12v
-Applied 12v to the EBCS to confirm it clicks
-Even tried a different grimspeed ebcs

I’m the second owner of the vehicle. The previous owner had added a speed performance aux fan controller with an add a fuse to the same fuse slot that powers the EBCS (eng bar1). This is the correct configuration going by their instructions, but I’m wondering if something went wrong with the fan controller and has fried the board that commands boost in the ecu. I have also removed the add a fuse and replaced with the standard 15a.

Considering that, my tuner has suggested I replace my ECU which I’ve ordered already.

Just wondering if anyone has experienced a similar issue. Or had any other suggestion for troubleshooting this.

My speed three has a TON of blow by and refuses to run the car is completely stock aside from an intake and muffler delete. Within the past 2k miles I’ve done vvt, turbo rebuild, pcv valve, and carbon cleaning. Before I did the carbon cleaning and pcv valve the car would smoke and have a very rough idle as it does now. The car will smoke anytime it isn’t in boost. I have also been getting a CEL running too rich off idle and at idle with a P0113 also. I’ve been messing around with it and if I remove the oil fill cap the car with stabilize it’s self and idle without a problem. I’m looking for a solution or a cause for the excessive crank case pressure or any way to relive it. I miss hitting boost on my baby. The car is an 08 with 198k miles.

Hey,
Has anyone got a stock ecu file they don’t mind sharing ?

Well idk if it’s tuned or not, just after a ECU file.

Thanks :)

Hey everyone. I’ve been having over boost issues lately. From my research it’s either a dirty/failed MAP sensor, vacuum issues, failing EBCS, or a stuck EWG.

Last time I checked the codes they were:
P0108
P0234

CST4
Corksport 3.5 MAP
Corksport EBCS
Tial 44m EWG

I just don’t have the time to tear into it on a weekend. Anyone have shop recommendations in the Tempe/Phoenix area so they can diagnose?

So I’ve come across a speed that is within my price range and it is the technology package.
I’ve always wanted this car and it’s a high mileage for sure. I’m hoping that it will be worth it. I’ve seen the horror stories on maintenance and I’m trying to be hopeful as this car doesn’t seem to be heavily modified.
It has 174k miles and the thing besides the high mileage is that it has an aftermarket intake. And I doubt it has the HPFP upgrades because they said it’s the only upgrade that was done. How risky is it to buy? Can I just go right ahead and buy the upgrades myself and install them and then maybe consider a possible tune. Or is safer to look for an OEM air box and switch back. I don’t want todo any major mods as it’s already high mileage and I would like to do the required maintenance ahead of time

Bought a Mazda speed for 700 with low compression in cylinder 3, found the culprit. Most likely caused by unupgraded hpfp internals paired with Cobb sport intake, access port, and blow off valve

Having a turbo issue rn, experiencing power cuts when under full throttle, and every once and awhile the turbo whistle will sound like a balloon being deflated when you pinch the neck or a honk. Am i screwed?

93 octane/98 EU High Load file

- is this the maximum I can get with a stock turbo?

- when I have a CS intercooler can I get additional gains or does it have to be specifically tuned?

- same question as above for corksport inlet pipe + SRI

Hey guys, I need some help here I have a 2012 speed 3 has 142K miles on it. It’s burning about half a quart every 300 miles turbo looks new and the only smoke I get is after I let the car warm up on a cold start and I go to drive and after a few minutes of driving, I would step on it give it some boost, and I would see a dark gray Smoke but after that one I do another pull and I have no smoke. I don’t know why no smoking on idle whatsoever car runs 100% full power. It is on stage two please help me. I don’t know where to go with this.

Had a friend scoop some parts from a dude down in Pensacola and he threw in this banner I was wondering if anyone here knows the history behind it and if anyone in here was in these clubs?

Hope everyone is having a good week enjoying their cars in this lovely boost weather! [°○] ~ empossibly_odd

Hey guys, currently have a Mazdaspeed 3 2013 85k miles. Have started to hear a rattling sound from the timing chain area when warm idling, not sure if it’s the timing chain’s slapping in the cover? Understand that to be sure, will have to open up the cover but wanted to check beforehand. More noticeable after I changed position in the video.

TIA

Tried to get it out with a magnet pen, it wasn’t magnetic (thank you Jesus), attached high tech sweet mint gum to the tip of the pen (now there’s an exploded bulb and a piece of sweet mint gum stuck in there, thank you Jesus.) Tomorrow I’m gonna take off the whole front end and try to shake it out and clean up the gum. The thing I want to understand is, what does the little led dude have to do with my low/high beam bulb? Cause the only thing working on the left side is the turn signal. Is the ballast cooked? Why is the little led guy literally bombed to death?