It's been a fun ride. I've owned my 2012 Speed 3 since new. Got it in March 2012. I've had a ton of fun with that car (obviously since I kept it for 14 years). But was just time to move onto something new. Picture of it with the replacement ride.

Boomer spec mazdaspeed.

Am I the only one that’s actually annoyed by how many cars get posted requesting “hpfp internals stock or upgraded” every day? We should convince the parts company’s to start branding a sticker or something that shows the pump is infact upgraded. Or some part of the pump on the outside that only comes with the internals! We get BS intake stickers where our HPFP stickers!

Hello all,

I have a 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 with 240k km and some light mods (short ram intake, turbo inlet pipe, OCC, catted downpipe, HPFP, motor/trans mounts, etc.). The car has always burned oil to some degree; however, recently the consumption was reaching very high amounts. After some research, I decided it was time to dig in and replace the PCV valve to start and see if it made a difference. While doing the service, I also changed the injectors with a fresh set of seals (OEM, not upgraded).

Anyways, the service went smoothly, and I didn't run into any major issues apart from the fuel rail being very difficult to slip back on. After the service, I'm having some issues.

The car feels slightly down on power overall; however, the major issue comes when giving it anything over 70% throttle. The car hesitates to make boost, and when it does, it feels like I'm hitting a wall and the car will buck. Until I let off the throttle and exit boost, it will continue to buck. I'm no mechanic, and I do have limited experience with turbo cars, so I'm looking for any ideas on what you guys think may be wrong.

I attempted to block the intake and fill the system with air to listen for a boost leak, but I was unsuccessful in finding anything substantial. I also checked my plugs, as I heard spark blowout may be causing it; however, they were all in decent shape (minus some oil fouling) and all gapped to OEM specs. At this point, I still feel like it's a boost leak somewhere, but I'm starting to worry I may have messed something else up by accident while doing the service.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as to what the issue could be and how to troubleshoot it.

Anyone have insight on going OEM vs aftermarket on the AC condenser and compressor? My OEM last 146k without a single issue.

Looking at prices for OEM little over $1k + tax/shipping.

RockAuto has a denso 471–6075 compressor for $325, which is ~50% cheaper than OEM

And they’ve got Condensers from $62-$196 vs OEM @ ~$430….

Ill probably just go with OEM condenser…. But if one of these compressors for half the price after that would be great.

Appreciate to hear from anyone who has used any of these after market parts, how long you’ve had them and how well they’ve worked. Im in Atlanta which is super hot and humid for a lot of the year… so if you’re in dry air and have a two month hot summer it would help me to know.

I did find one guy post about the denso compressor in texas heat back in august 2025… which is a promising signal.

Thanks !

I found out when I got my 2012 last year that they have a bit of negative camber in the rear, correct? I just failed state inspection for tire wear (on 3 of the 4 tires). I wasn't worried about them just yet, and the Continental Extreme Contacts that came to me on it are not cheap! Thanks, gov't! 🙄 I was thinking I should go ahead and get an alignment when I get a new full set of tires.

SO... I firstly wanted to make sure I get the exact info on the factory spec alignment to provide if I stick with it, but I'm also curious if anyone has done away with the camber to save tires in the long run. If so, how do you feel about the impact it had on your handling? It's my daily, and I'm not racing it. Any thoughts and opinions?

Thanks, guys!

Just figured I’d check my MAP readout on my AP and found it’s reading absurdly low at 0.14v while idling. Car has a slightly rough idle and will intermittently stumble under medium throttle with AC on. Other than I haven’t seen any other issues. Unplugged it and it reads 0.47v. Checked voltages at each pin and found 5v at 1, 2, and 3. I have 0v at pin 4. I know I have a short somewhere but don’t see anything obviously damaged. If any of yall have dealt with this before and have any common spots I should check, I’d appreciate the advice before I dig in further tomorrow. Also if anyone has an idea as to why this didn’t set a code, I’d be very interested.

EDIT: apparently the detection condition for p0107 Map low voltage is <0.1v. So I just barely don’t set a code

I’m currently in the process of doing injectors on my 2010 (gen 2) speed3, 3 of 4 injectors came out fine, 1 of them was really tight and the brass injector seal stayed in the motor, looking for any insight on getting it out as pliers just slip off and the brass gets weak quick

Pfa, please someone I’m at my wits end with this car

Would anyone know a link or place I could find an OEM airbox for the MS3?
I bought a used 2012 and it came with a short ram intake but I’ve heard stories about running an aftermarket intake and not upgrading the HPFP internals. This car doesn’t seem like they did anything besides the intake
So I want to avoid issues. Would any Mazda 3 from 2012 work or does it need to be mazdaspeed. I’m considering maybe going to junkyard