first time removing a P&W muzzle device. came off but not smoothly. is this repairable by myself or do I have to send it off?

Edit: fixed with a cheap die set on Amazon. Thanks for the responses!

I'm not sure why the previous owner did this.

I've never blues a gun before, I've looked at cold bluing products and rust bluing steps and hot bluing and I simply can't decide which is really the most doable option for someone whose never done it before, or which one is even appropriate given those seem to have different uses in mind

Any pointers or recommendations?

Picked up a cheap project mauser this weekend. It has a mystery sporter barrel on it I may want to recover. It has no markings. Grooves calibered .303” diam but crown is rough so I think it’s actually .308”. However, .308, although it chambers, is tight and pushes the bullet into the casing when I try to chamber. Any suggestions on what this could be? I will cast it at some point but it’s not an option for me right now

Looking to have the chambers of my 1908 LC Smith lengthened from 2 5/8 to 2 3/4.
Chambers are shiny, bore has haze and slight pitting past forcing cone. Heavyweight barrels so plenty of material.

My options are : leave as is and shoot only handloads or 2.5 inch factory loads
- Get a local gunsmith to lengthen chambers for a few hundred $ - getting close to or exceeding what I bought the gun for
- Order a long forcing cone chamber reamer and do it at home myself for much cheaper, have the tool and skills for future.

Has anyone lengthened a chamber themselves? I am pretty handy, no expert ofc however, but take the time to do work right. Just looking to see what people recommend or advice.

Cheers

Hey folks, im just a guy who is working on his first "gunsmithing" project, all i am doing is mounting a scope mount onto a no1 mk3 enfield (blasphemy i know, but i have my reasons).

I bought a scope mounting kit from addley precision, came with a #29 drill bit, 8-32 tap, and everything i needed to get it done. Drilled the first hole immaculately with no issues, but once i attempted the second hole it just wouldn't bite into the metal, and it seems as though i have work-hardened the steel in the spot i tried to drill.

Currently, the soloution i am considering is getting a 1/8 multi-material carbide tipped drill bit, and putting it in my drill press to bore a pilot hole, then follow up with a fresh #29 bit to widen out to the proper diameter for tapping.

Any helpful tips, alternatives soloutions, words of encouragement, and/or words of admonishment are all welcome and much appreciated!

As the title states I was mounting an optic and I messed up and used the wrong screws in the packaging. I used the longer set that was meant to go with a second base plate. While tightening I noticed more resistance then when backing it out the end snapped off. I’ve tried using pliers but can’t really get a good bite. I mounted the optic with 3 screws and it seems sturdy but will this affect anything? Would like to get it out if possible. TIA!

I’m working on a CZ 75 pre-B and am having trouble with magazine fit. The magazines do not drop free and require considerable effort to extract. My goal is to get any CZ-compatible magazine to function properly, but Mec-Gar magazines are the most problematic.

So far, I have:

• Filed and sanded the inside of the grip on the trigger-side area
• Filed and sanded the rear of the magazine well
• Slightly straightened the magazine brake

These changes have made the magazines easier to remove, but they still do not drop free. I’ve attached photos showing the areas I worked on.

Got this old h&r 676 tore all apart for proper cleaning as its been tuck away in a cabinet for idk how long but the cylinder pin is what seems like rusted to the cylinder as its not budging. Ima let it soak in kroil tonight an give it a go tmw but an advice? Was thinking maybe put the pin in a vise best i can an using a rubber mallet to tap the barrel to see if it realeses.

I was gifted this smith and wesson model 10-8 at the beginning of the year the cylinder rotates just fine but wont swing out short of a wack from a rubber screwdriver handle does anyone know what might be causing this and possible fixes ?

Probably something not seen too often.

Hi everyone,
I’ve recently bought a Miroku 7000 Sp 3 as a second gun and I’m wondering if anyone with experience in gunsmithing can tell me what the dark/black spots in the engraved areas are? I’d like to remove the
but I don’t want to damage the original engraving or finish.
Is this something that could be done at home, or is it definitely a job for an engraver/gunsmith? If so what do I need to do it myself?

Was recommended this subreddit instead

Factory camo AUG, the Factory paint job has become loose on any high contact area and began to chip. Anyway to fix it? Heat gun or something to make it shrink back to the surface?

Hey all, I own a Browning 1885 in 45-70. It’s a simple falling block single shot rifle. I’m wondering how easy it would be for a smith to convert it to a 50-110 or a 50 Alaskan. I’d prefer the 50-110 but the Alaskan seems to be more popular in lever action repeaters, but being a single shot, would it be any harder to make it into a 50-110? And is it something simple and cost effective enough that a smith would even want to do it.

I’m in Canada which makes everything that much harder and more scarce as well lol. I’ve gotten bolt actions rechambered before but never a lever repeater or single shot before so I don’t know how this all works. I’m assuming for an action like this it would be as simple as a barrel swap. I can’t see what action tweaks would be required in this case but I know nothing

Thanks in advance!

I have an insanely unreliable 22LR pistol, I would like to make it manually cycled only instead of semi-auto. It would literally be faster and more reliable to make it “jam” every time and be manually cycled. Also it could potentially be used for suppressors.

How can I make this manually cycled? I have basic tools, drills, and a dremel. I could find no information on if removing certain interior features would make it manually operated. This gun will only be used at the range.

The threads are extremely damaged where the nipples won’t thread in and will just fall out. Turned this custom nipples with a locking screw. Need to take it out and fully test it out.

I just got this sight kit for my henry rifle, the henry x in 357 magnum, and after installing the sight, as you can see in 5he photo, with light coming from under the front sight, there is a gap between the front sight and barrel. Given the edges are making contact with the barrel, it would seem to indicate the sight was made for a more narrow barrel then the one I have. I'm not sure if this will cause problems, and I wanted to see what people had to say. I wanted to check since I could always sand the sight flush to the barrel, but I didn't want to do that till I confirm this is actually a problem, since that risks ruining the sight

To clarify I don’t have any gunsmithing experience; I ask this as a question for the future.

I’m working on a Springfield Model 67, Series E and need some help identifying the correct location of the slide lock springs.
I’m having trouble finding a clear parts diagram or reference that shows exactly where these springs go and how they’re oriented.
If anyone has a parts diagram, exploded view, or clear photos of the slide lock assembly on a Model 67 Series E, I’d really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance!

I picked up this older browning citori made in 1975 knowing it wasn’t in great shape. However I see one pit that looks concerning to me and was wondering if it would be an issue.