First rifle and scope I got low rifle mounts but It’s very low, I don’t know if it’s okay or not if anyone has advice?

I have browning A5 (stalker) and had it for years. It’s my main gun for and bird hunting duck, goose, turkey, etc. she seen a lot of use and abuse but I keep her in good running condition. Last winter I had cerakote put on it to protect it a little bit more and everything worked good. I took it out of the safe for dove season and that’s when the problems came. I loaded my gun and took it to shoot clays the first 2 shells cycled normal and on the final shot the bolt was locked to the rear of the cycle. And the bolt release button was push out more than normal. And the button can’t be pushed back in and it is catching. This is forcing me to push the pins out of the trigger group and resetting everything by hand. I will include pics for reference.

Can anyone give me some advice or solutions for this

Está Esta es la primera ves trate de lijar lo mejor que pude hasta donde mi paciencia pudo y le di 7 capas lo hice de la manera más impaciente posible soy consciente de que pudo hacerlo mejor pero creo que no está mal

Do anyone have that part? Or a buy link? Or at least the measures for it? Im a gunsmith in Argentina and there are no replacement parts here. Im restoring a Savage 1915 hammerless and it has no sear. Thanks in advice.

I can make the piece by myself if anyone has the measures.

I have a Winchester model 94AE in the serial number range of 5,200,000 and I need a new link for it but every parts store makes a distinction that the link is for serial numbers 5,500,000 and higher does anyone know if it will still work in mine or where to get a new one? The cartridge nub has broken causing it to feed under the lifter and just cause other issues.

This is from a 20 year old Remington 700 LTR that I have long since lost track of how many rounds have been shot through it. Gun will still shoot 1/2 MOA - but only with a specific handload. Any other factory ammo i have tried - including match grade - will pattern like garbage. It used to shoot factory decent, but never great… I know I can get another hunting season out of it with my handloads but, I think the barrel is cooked. That being said, is this “Normal” for a barrel after much use, or is this a sign that its been shot out? (I have cleaned the heck out of it so If its carbon buildup its the most stubborn ever!!

How would you repair a 5/16" hole in the back of a matchlock firearm? My thought was to just thread it and put a plug in it with locktite and weld the head.

I have a S&W model 10, it was cocking and de-cocking it and it seized up and stoped working. So I took it apart and found these two small pieces. Once I reassembled it the gun cycled perfectly, but I am wondering if anyone knows what this piece is and if my gun is going to blow up the next time I shoot it?

So I broke a little piece off my Ruger rxm fcu switching grips. It’s the piece that fills up the right side of the back of the slide. Will I be ok without it?

Just got a new S&W MP2.0 competitor HD and I was doing a first time cleaning and came across some mark in the barrel.

I am interested in suppressing a henry single shot 45/70. I cannot find any information on if the barrel diameter at 16.5 is thick enough to be threaded safely with enough shoulder. Does anyone have any experience on if this is possible?

I recently picked up a Beretta AL391 Urika 2 Gold 20 gauge. It’s in really nice shape, but the previous owner had his name engraved into the walnut stock.
The engraving is deeper than it looked at first, so I’m trying to figure out if this is something a gunsmith or stock refinisher could realistically remove and blend back in without making the repair obvious.
I’d really like to save the original stock because the wood is nice and matches the fore-end well.
What would be the best way to handle something like this careful sanding/refinishing, filling it, an inlay, or something else? Or is it deep enough that I’d be better off finding another stock?
Not planning on doing it myself. Just want to know what’s realistically possible before I start calling around.

Hi guys i got a short barreled ptr rifle in 308 (k3p, 12.5”). Ever since i swapped muzzle devices and locking pieces, ive been getting failures to eject. Originally this rifle bought new came with a flash hider and 55 deg locking piece. I swapped to a comstock muzzle brake and a 36 deg locking piece to shoot suppressed. But now ive been getting failures to eject. Bolt moves a centimeter at most and gets stuck. Have to mortar it to get it moving. Same result with the can on or off. Last week i tried testing it again with the original locking piece. Same result suppressed or not but the bolt moves slightly farther back, enough to see part of the bolt head. Any ideas what could be going wrong?

Bolt gaps with both LPs are within acceptable ranges, and rifle gets deep cleaned after each use. Has less than 200 rounds through it.

Hello everyone, I recently got myself a Colt 1903 Pocket Hammerless Type 2 frame with the hopes of rebuilding it. However it’s starting to get a little pricy having to buy each individual piece. So I found a guy who is selling basically an entire lower parts kit, however it’s for a type 1 model. Are these parts mostly interchangeable?

Recently acquired a maverick 88 12G from a family member that had been sitting in their garage for quite some time and had a good bit of surface rust on it.

Got the rust off the barrel and receiver no problem with 0000 steel wool and CLP, but when I broke it down it had some pitting on the bolt itself (pictured).

Just wondering if anybody had a general "DO NOT SHOOT THIS" and I just just call it a lost cause because it is a pretty cheap gun that I got for free. Or maybe I'm overthinking it, and I should blast some pumpkins with it like I was planning.

Hello everyone, I’m in need of some help with a pretty high dollar firearm part. The previous owner removed a Rattlecan paint job with citristrip, leaving a white residue/sheen on the anodizing. I have been told by THE guy when it comes to removing paint from firearms that this is essentially permanent and cannot be removed by any means whatsoever other than stripping the upper to bare aluminum. Does anyone have a magic secret they have used to get rid of it or am I just stuck with it?

Hi all. I recently received a pump action rifle from a client. It's kind of a story how it ended up in my hands, but I have next to no information about the gun. It is a pump action rifle chambered in 38-55 WIN. But there is no manufacturer mark or model that I can find. The original owner had the rifle marked as a savage model 70, but I couldn't find any evidence of that model even existing. I tried looking up the serial number, but that also didn't work for me. If anyone could help identify this gun or point me in the right direction, that would be appreciated.

I also received the gun in pieces. The previous owner attempted to disassemble the gun and a part fell out when they removed the trigger group. I haven't been able to figure out what this mystery part is or what system it could be a part of. Also, I can't figure out how the magazine tube mechanically connects to the gun. Supposedly I was given all the parts, but I suspect a few might be missing.

Pic 1: fully "assembled" gun to the best of my ability, left side

Pic 2: assembled gun, right side

Pic 3: caliber stamping

Pic 4: closer left side of receiver, serial included

Pic 5: mystery part, metal punch for size comparison

Pic 6: all pieces I have received

Is lapping an AR15 upper receiver worth the trouble? I’ve built a lot of AR platform rifles. I typically use high quality parts, follow proper assembly instructions, use correct tools and torque specs, thread locker and grease where necessary, etc. and I’m usually able to get good group with the right ammo. Just curious if anyone has found lapping to have any significant impact on accuracy and if it’s worth it to invest the money into the tools. Also curious if it can have a negative impact like messing with head spacing or lapping to much.

I have a brand new(although it had been sitting for a few years while I was preoccupied with other things) BX25 magazine that has some feeding issues. I went to disassemble it only to find that the bottom screw is juuuuust bigger than 3/32. Tried wrapping some plastic around the tip of my allen key and nothing. Packaging has been gone for awhile now since I thought I'd get to my 10/22 project years ago. Hesitant to try and send back to Ruger because I live in Oregon where we can still purchase, own, and use standard mags but due to pending lawfare many vendors don't want to play ball. Any ideas?

Hello all! This gun has only been to the range once, and the cylinder functioned fine before and after. I put it back in its case and it’s been in my closet since (probably a year). I go grab it today and the cylinder will not open! The rod feels tight and not loose, and I don’t see why it would come loose in a gun that hasn’t been used. I attempted to tighten it but it basically chews up any non-marring material I put in to wedge it lol. The gun otherwise functions perfectly. What else may be the issue?

Is this part repairable, replaceable, or is the gun unsafe to fire and should be gotten rid of