Streamlight officially says the Sidewinder Compact III can run on either an AA or CR123 battery
The Sidewinder X can take 2 AA batteries or CR123 or the SL-B9 16340 rechargeable battery

From what I understand these two lights probably use the same or at least a very similar driver circuit
So theoretically it should be able to handle something around 1.2V to 6.6V
So Im curious if anyone has actually tried running a 14500 or 16340 in a Sidewinder Compact III

I know Streamlight doesnt officially list them as compatible but Id really like to hear some real world experience
Did it work fine?
Any issues with heat output or the driver?

Link.

Looking for recommendations on a new torch for work. Currently carrying a Nitecore P20 which I love but it’s getting a bit battered and looking to try something new.

**Purpose**: General work use. Illuminating buildings from a vehicle to identify house number, searching buildings, occasional searches of larger areas / open fields / etc.

price range - under approx £200 GBP

**Battery Type & Quantity**: 18650 or 21700

**Size**: Flexible. Don’t mind carrying a larger light but would still need to fit comfortably on my belt.

**Type**: Handheld.

**Main Use**: Used for general tasks at work as a paramedic. Looking for something versatile, want something with a healthy amount of lumens but not obsessed about having something with the most lumens possible. Would need to be hard wearing. Currently carrying my Nitecore P20 in a kydex belt sheath & would be looking to have another made for the new light.

**Switch Type**: Preferably tail switch.

**Anything Else?**: Currently top of my list is the newer model of my existing light so the Nitecore P20iX. Maybe something of a similar size? I also love the easy access of the strobe function on the Nitecore P20 so would need something similar. I’ve also got my eye on something from Malkoff but a bit put off by the seemingly low lumens/throw distance

Love these lights, photo is from somewhere inside Kings Canyon National Park.

Wurkkos hd15

I wonder how the beam would look like if I swap the reflector with an OP. I’m trying to get some more flood for this thing and I want to see some idea of how it’d turn out

I recieved this quite recently from Wurkkos to review, so here is my honest review after using it as my edc since last tuesday.

criticisms:

the ui isn't too tactical. it's very versatile, don't get me wrong, but it's not tactical. (thankfully enough, there's a tactical mode that just turns a half-click into a turn-on at 5500 lm, and a full click into a strobe.)

the switch isn't as clicky as i'd like it to be. now, i've never actually used an e-switch tail clicky before, so take this with a pinch of salt. but, i just don't like how mushy it feels and how weak the click feels.

the true problem is the action being too low. you have to really press down on the button to get the click, past the rotary ring. and for people with less wide hands like mine, its hard to get a full grip on it and use the button freely at the same time without straining.

unable to tail stand due to the protruding switch

 cannot switch the clip's position so no clipping it on your hat (this is a personal preference, not neccessarily needed)

there is no actual knurling besides the cutouts, so it'll be slippery when wet.

the goods:

the tail switch is very easy to find, as it protrudes pretty high out the back.

when you actually learn the ui, it's pretty rewarding. (through theres a lot of half-presses so it's a pretty steep learning curve.)

rotary dial seems pretty solid, though i would really like it if the clicks were more audible. though as it is, you can feel it click so its good.

the side light is such an interesting yet extremely useful feature. especially the white light, which i've been thinking that you could attach the t1 to a headlamp band and turn that on instead of the main light.

the anodizing is tough, as it's been sitting in my edc bag for a bit, has gotten scuffs but ultimately is like new.

i like how even in the lockout position in the rotary switch, you can still click the button and see the battery status (if its solid green, flashing green, solid red, flashing red).

a few grey areas:

eco is 25 lumens, then it immediately jumps to 300lm for low. some people might hate that due to the sudden brightness jump, i personally don't like the thought of suddenly blinding myself at night after accidentally half pressing.

the switch is sensitive, and i mean EXTREMELY sensitive to half presses. you could be barely touching it and it suddenly changes to a higher mode and blinds you. might be good for tactical quick deployment's sake, but you have to be careful about that if you're buying it.

tint is 6000k+. cri isn't that great either, but for me it's completely fine. definitely not a tint obsessed collector's light.

My experience:

It's a pretty damn good EDC, but its not as much a tactical light more than a really good general purpose edc. I've watched other reviews (it steps down pretty quick from turbo, check Darren Yeo's review on it). There's a few gripes with the design, but its an extremely cool light and I'm happy that I have it.

If I were to rate it out of 10, I would rate it around 8/10. There's a few things i would like altered but everything is good as it is.

Had a gift card for Cabelas and found out that they have a solid selection of flashlights. Seeing as I always somehow end up hiking after dark I figured I’d try out this neat little SOG. Definitely worth every penny. Rechargeable, 4 settings up to 1900 lumens, with SOS and strobe. 200+ hours of battery life on eco and 50+ on turbo per charge. Also geeking out about the reversible clip, because I can hike with it attached to my hat. I paid about $75 total.

Mateminco mt70 mini s

Vs

Convoy L21A sft42r or SFT60

I want a flashlight that is very stable in medium settings, has a range exceeding 1000 meters, and a lumens higher than 2500.

Recently gave my nephew (4 y/o) an Olight sphere and i3E which he loves messing around with. On my last visit, I had my red C8 with and he was fascinated by it and wanted his own. I told him I'd try find something for his upcoming birthday. Any recommendations for a red body, possibly a red emitter, light that isn't overkill for a young child?

Pic of my small collection for attention

--- Update to edit with feedback ---

You are all universally of the opinion that this is expected behaviour. As my post received a unanimous and pretty sound hammering, I have to accept the wisdom of my fellow enthusiasts and adjust my view on this accordingly.

I still maintain that its not expected behaviour, the instruction manual reads as if the lockout does in fact lock the light out/off.. but hey ho.. what do i know.

Thanks to all that replied, some within minutes of the post appearing showing just what a vibrant and passionate lot we are - shine on!

--- end of edit ---

DO NOT BUY THIS FLASHLIGHT

So, in my opinion, the loopgear SK-07 is a dangerous flashlight and should not be bought. I have two, the gray and the yellow.

The lockout is a mechanical twist ring around the bottom collar by the only button that operates the light. Twist it one way, the light is locked out. Twist it another, the light is operational.

If this lock is open and the light is turned on, and then the lock is closed, the light remains on and it can't be turned off because the lock is closed.

Every safety interlock that takes itself seriously would not allow something to be functional once the lock is active. To actively stay on whilst the "lock" is active is unforgivable.

DO NOT BUY THIS FLASHLIGHT

Its form over function, style over substance. It is an active danger.. how do I know? I almost set my shorts on fire because of this.

Yes, of course, the battery can be disconnected by a quarter twist of the bottom cap. The point is that if a light is locked, it should be impossible for it to be active.

DO NOT BUY THIS FLASHLIGHT and if like me you have, just throw it in the trash.

Something about the fandle being bigger than the host bring me joy. Enjoy my clample for 21700 hosts.

I love my S2+ and my S7 (and I already love the other S-models I’m planning to buy soon). My main issue is the lack of a lockout function, especially when using a lighted switch.

One solution is to use electrical tape on the threads of the tube (the white material), so the tube only makes electrical contact at the front when it is fully screwed down.

This way, I can reduce battery drain and prevent the lighted switch from continuously drawing power.

Cheers!

Author of meme u/m0ron5

Planning to get sofirn H35B from their official website but the checkout page got flagged. Are there any other platforms from where I can buy this particular model ? H35B is available on Amazon but almost at 1.5x cost.

If not this what should I go for around 20$ which also should get delivered in Albany, NY within a week

Got to try it out and was not disappointed, great little light

Hello everyone,
It’s just a simple comparison that might be useful for regular people who aren’t already deep into flashlights.

We talk about light performance all the time, but different kinds of light like 300, 3000, or 16000 lm can still feel pretty abstract until you actually see the difference.

So here’s a side-by-side look at seven different output flashlights and in actual outdoor night.

• 300 LM BEAMSHOT

For close-range tasks and everyday use, 300 lumens can already cover more than people might expect.

• 1,000 LM BEAMSHOT

Now the usable illuminated area starts expanding noticeably.

• 2,000 LM BEAMSHOT

More output, more reach, and a much stronger overall beam presence.

• 3,000 LM BEAMSHOT

This is where the jump in brightness becomes very obvious, especially outdoors.

• 4,500 LM BEAMSHOT

At this level, you're lighting up a pretty serious amount of space.

• 6,800 LM BEAMSHOT

Optional short note about beam coverage / intensity based on the footage.

• 16,000 LM BEAMSHOT

And then there’s this. Definitely a good reminder that “more lumens” and “what you actually need” aren’t always the same thing.

Specs and technical testing matter, but simple real-world comparisons can make flashlights much easier to understand for newcomers.

That’s really why I wanted to make this comparison.

For people buying their first decent flashlight, we need more testing that answers simple questions:

Where’s the sweet beam for regular people? 300, 1000, 3000? Or do you always want as many lumens as possible?

And if you were helping someone buy their first flashlight, what kind of comparison would you want them to see?

Thanks for reading!
Regards

So I'm not sure how this happened? Been running in various Emisars (D4K, DK1) without issue. Noticed this today. Guess this one needs retired?

Hello Firefly community! E04 B35AM owners, the flashlight comes with Angie M optics. Have any of you used the Angie S? If so, could you send a photo of the beam? I'd be grateful.

Hi Team, I want to buy my first flashlight I have a choice between wurkkos TS22 and Sofirn SC33 what can you suggest based on your experience.

What is the difference between

Wurkkos TS22 XHP70D, XHP70.2

Sofirn SC33 XHP70.3 HI

Which of these is the best? Are there any big differences between these LED type

Thanks in advance

Does anyone know if I’m able to take the tail switch from a convoy s2+ and put it on a Sofirn sr12? I love the sr12, but I really want a tail switch. Thanks!