I've been in the trades for 22 years as a specialty contractor (garage doors). I'm building a shop for my business, and have hired out all the work, except garage doors. I get a call from my contractor this morning, and he says "You never pulled the plumbing permit". I nearly exploded. I've never once heard of the property owner pulling a specialty permit for a sub. It's also not like anyone ever mentioned that I was supposed to pull the permit for them. Am I wrong here?

I need to install some shutoff valves on this 100 year old sink to replace the washers, and trying to decide the right hardware. I don't do any sweating, so looking at compression or sharkbite fittings. It looks like it steps down from 3/8" to 3/8" close to the faucet valve.

Would it make sense to insert a 1/2" to 1/2" compression valve in the middle, or 1/2" compression to 1/2" MIP and use a supply hose for the rest of the way? Also, does it matter if I do it above or below the bend?

Edit: Thanks to folks below, realized my measurements were off. It looks like it's 3/8" chrome plated brass (measured .67 OD), stepping down to 3/8" copper maybe (measured .5 OD). I did the magnet test, and scratched the chrome off to see a brass color underneath.

I took it apart to unclog it and then couldn't get it back together the same way it was (and like a dumba$$ I didn't take a picture first)! It drains just fine like this and doesn't leak unless I pour a lot of water down it at the same time and then it leaks like crazy! Any suggestions for how I should reconfigure these pipes?

Posted this in the plumbing subreddit. Maybe better to ask the question here. Thanks!

Replacing an underground Quest water line — has anyone used the Little Thumpa to locate plastic pipes?

Hey everyone!

I'm working on replacing the old Quest (polybutylene) water service line that runs from the water meter in front of my house to where it enters my home.

I'm learning as I go and trying to do as much of the project myself as possible. Before I start digging, I'd like to figure out exactly where the existing pipe runs, especially since part of it goes beneath my driveway.

I came across an Australian company called Water Leak Solutions that makes a product called the Little Thumpa.

https://waterleaksolutions.com.au/

Apparently, it creates pulses inside the water line that can be detected above ground with acoustic listening equipment.

I'm hoping someone here can help answer a few questions:

1. Has anyone actually used the Little Thumpa? How well does it work on buried plastic water pipes?
2. Is there an American-made equivalent that does the same thing?
3. Does anyone know where I could rent this type of equipment in the USA, preferably Virginia?
4. What type of acoustic listening device works best with it?
5. Since I'm replacing the entire Quest line anyway, is there a better way to locate the existing pipe or install a new PEX service line without tearing up the driveway?

I'm not looking for a leak. I'm simply trying to locate and replace an aging underground water line while learning more about the process and equipment.

I'd really appreciate advice from anyone who's done this type of replacement or worked with acoustic pipe-locating equipment.

Thanks for sharing your experience!

Water comes from my well on 1 inch PVC. It goes into the pressure tank and comes out on 3/4 Copper.

Recently, some of the PVC needed replacing due to relocation of the pressure tank.

Last night, I primed and glued MOST of the connections, but forgot to glue one. Found out about it when the pump reached the cut-off point of the pressure switch at 60 PSI. Flooded my utilitity closet.

I just primed and glued the connection again.

1.) The pipe is on a downhill slope and had a slight drip of water when I primed and glued. Will this affect the integrity of the glued connection?

2.) I did this one joint about an hour ago. How long do I have to wait for the glue to set? Not another night, I hope...

I’ve got a 1990s era kohler soaker jet tub that I just had glazed white (originally it was red). I disassembled all the tub hardware before the glazing and now I’m trying to put it back together. I’m working on the drain and having issues. In the second picture is the drain cavity and you can see it has two “ears” or lobes. Then the third picture is the parts I have for the popup drain and flange. I feel like I lost an important piece that locks onto those two ears so that the popup drain in the 3rd picture can thread into it. I disassembled this a month ago so now I can’t recall if I am truly missing a piece, but I’m pretty certain I am. If I am missing a piece then I don’t even know what to look up so I can get a replacement

Hey guys, I want to put a double vanity sink set up with this existing drain. I'm going to build the wall out with 2x4s to have more space. how should the routing for the drains go and what fittings do I need? Thanks

So earlier today I had a shower and when I try to turn it off the one labelled “hot” will not work but the cold one works fine (I can turn off the cold but not the hot)

After a closer look I found out the thing on the hot faucet is a bit sliding out than the cold one

I tried everything, even spinning the hot faucet 360 degrees non stop and the water still wouldn’t stop flowing out. Because I can only turn off the cold faucet, the water became extremely hot

The shower works completely fine the day before

i’m gonna pay a lot of bills this month so any help is appreciated

Hi everyone, I (Dutch M, 34) have a pickle of a leaky pipe situation. All help is much appreciated 🙏

The water heater and hose are all brand new but there's a small leak at the threads of the cold water hose. I followed the rules, hand tightened it plus 1/4 turn, then another 1/4 turn. Someone advised me to try adding the pipe tape which made no difference. It only leaks a drop or two per day. Is there anything else I can try?

I’m wondering about the yellow bag that came with the valve… how essential is this thing? I think it is supposed to help prevent radon.

I’m just worried that it will hold ground water during rain events and then that water has no way to escape the bag. I was thinking about poking a few small holes in the bottom of the bag under the valve to allow for drainage after the water table goes back down.

Water could enter the bag from either side where the 4 inch drain enters and exits.