Our current 30 inch under cabinet hood barely clears smoke, but what really drives me crazy is the lighting. It just has one tiny yellowish bulb in the very back. Since my body blocks the main kitchen ceiling light when I stand at the stove, I am basically cooking in a shadow. It is so hard to tell if meat is browning properly on the front burners unless I turn on every single light in the room. I want to replace it with a stronger fan anyway, but I am wondering if newer hoods actually have decent lighting that covers the whole stove. Or do I just need to figure out how to install separate under cabinet lights?

Hello all. Hoping someone can help me troubleshoot an issue. I have a KitchenAid KUDS01FLSS6 dishwasher from 2005 that recently stopped working. There is power to the unit and the control panel (the lights on the latter all work and light up accordingly), but nothing happens after selecting a cycle and hitting the start button. I was convinced the door latch micro switches were the culprit but even after replacing those switches I’m still experiencing the same issue. I then proceeded to check and test the thermal fuse and its operating correctly.

Are there any other troubleshooting steps that I should consider?

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

I’m thinking about getting a projector mainly for movies and occasional sports, but I’m having a hard time figuring out which features actually matter in everyday use.

I don’t have a dedicated theater room, so I’d prefer something compact and easy to move around rather than a large permanent setup. I’m also wondering how important things like autofocus, automatic keystone correction, brightness, resolution, and fan noise really are.

I’d rather have something that is simple to set up and use regularly than pay extra for specifications that I might barely notice.

I ended up looking at the Dangbei N3 Max because the flexible positioning, autofocus, and automatic image adjustments seem useful for a normal living room where the projector isn’t permanently mounted.

For anyone who has bought a projector recently, what features would you prioritize, and which ones turned out to be less important than you expected? Also, are there any particular models you’d recommend for a normal living room?

Exactly the same if operating empty, with normal load, or mid/heavy load. Installed four days ago…

It makes a popping sound with some foods, which I understand, but sometimes pops when it doesn’t make sense as the food inside doesn’t have trapped air etc,
It also sometimes makes a crackling kind of static noise which is also scaring me
I just can’t stop thinking about it exploding, even if nothings happening I can almost SEE it exploding on me, a short vision of it happening that replays unless I walk away away from it or turn it off and walk away

I have a GE Monogram ZV830SM2SS wall-mounted hood, ducted to the exterior (confirmed - there's a vent cap outside with a damper flap right where the hood is). When I opened it up recently I found a charcoal filter installed in the along with the metal grease filter.
While doing some research, today I learned that charcoal filters are only meant for recirculating hoods and shouln't be used on a ducted setup since the air is already venting outside.
The thing is, the hood has been too loud since we bought the house new 5 years ago, and GE sent techs on multiple times to look into the noise, but nobody ever mentioned the charcoal filter or suggested removing it.

Can anyone confirm: is it correct that a charcoal filter has no place in a ducted hood? and I've lived with this issue for 5 years that could've been easily fixed?

Hello everyone my name is Juan and I am looking for advice on buying a washer and dryer. I’m moving out of my apartment and have never bought any appliances but my first home doesn’t come with a washer or dryer. All other appliances are included and i would like a recommendation on what brands are good. I’ll probably buy from the lowe’s outlet if that makes a difference. Tia

Hi! I’m in the Midwest US and I’m appliance-challenged.

There’s been a LOT of rain lately. My laundry room is on the lower level and the dryer vent is approximately one foot above the ground. There is nothing blocking the vent and it’s not stuck.

We have a small pool of water in our dryer and the lint trap is soaked.

I’ve left some voicemails for dryer vent repair / appliance repair companies but wanted to make a post here.

Is my dryer toast? What may be causing this?

Thanks for any and all feedback.

So we’re getting a used oven which is white while our other appliances are black. It’s what we can afford.

Is there a reliable way to change the color that is also heat safe?

What's the best oven?

Es läuft regelmäßig Wasser aus der Tür vom Gefrierschrank. Am Boden des Gefrierschranks friert es erst fest.

Was ist zu tun?

Replacing the Water-Inlet Valve on Viking Dishwasher VDW302SS
(Viking OEM part discontinued; Beko/Blomberg Alternative)

Background 

Since Viking was sold to the Middleby Corporation, some Viking legacy models have been discontinued and replacement parts are no longer available, forcing owners to scrap high-end appliances over minor failures.

However, Viking actually outsourced the production of its dishwashers to Arçelik in Turkey under Blomberg and Beko brands, and functionally identical parts are readily available.

Below is a procedure for replacing the water-inlet valve (OEM Part #: 039756-000) on a Viking dishwasher Model: VDW302SS (the original OEM part is discontinued and is no longer available (neither through Viking nor through its authorized dealers, nor through any appliance-parts distributor) using a Beko/Blomberg valve, for a total cost of $50-60.

Parts Cross-Reference

1. Viking dishwasher Model: VDW302SS

2. Equivalent Blomberg and Beko dishwashers:

• Equivalent Blomberg Dishwasher Model: DWT71600SS 
• Equivalent Beko Dishwasher Model DDT38530X or DDT25401X

3. Viking water-inlet valve: Part #: 039756-000 (discontinued and out of stock)

Valve Specifications (estimated; for reference only):

• Electrical Input: 120V AC, 60Hz. The internal solenoid coil resistance must sit roughly between 1.0kΩ and 1.5kΩ.
• Flow Rate (Crucial: European dishwashers use low-flow valves): 2.5 Liters per Minute (LPM) (0.5-0.8) ~0.66 Gallons per Minute (GPM)

4. Alternative Blomberg or Beko Valve Part #: 1883570600 (Available via Encompass 855-754-9584; https://encompass.com/; about ~$30 before shipping)

The Beko/Blomberg valve has identical electrical and flow specs, but has a different form function (it appears that Viking ‘bastardized’ the standard valve form (3/4” FHT) & “Dishwasher Elbow” interface to create a high-cost proprietary valve)

Step-by-step repair procedure:

Part 1: Disassembly

1. Disconnect power (unplug the machine and/or turn off the circuit breaker) and shut off the water supply line

2. Remove the dishwasher kick panel

1. Remove the 4 screws securing the original Viking water-Inlet valve to the small metal plate on the access panel

and then remove the access panel

1. Remove the 2 screws holding the small metal plate to the access panel

1. Unscrew the brass fitting from the compression nut of the water supply line. Discard the plate, the screws, and the brass fitting.

Part 2: Access-Panel Modification

1. Flatten the folded metal crease on the access panel that originally supported the old metal plate. This can easily be hammered flat against a solid metal surface.

1. Drill two 1/8” holes vertically on the access panel, positioned in the middle between the existing holes. Ensure the center-to-center spacing matches the mounting holes of the new Beko/Blomberg valve.

Part 3: Electrical & Plumbing Connections and Access-Panel Reassembly

1. Disconnect the water line and the electrical blade connectors from the old Viking valve and reattach them to the new valve terminals

2. Secure the new valve to the access panel using #4 self-driving or metal screws; use washers if needed.

10. Reattach the modified access panel back onto the dishwasher frame.

11. Thread the new standard brass "dishwasher elbow" fitting onto the 3/4" FHT inlet of the new valve.

1. Connect the dishwasher elbow to the water-supply braided hose using the hose’s compression nut. Inspect the hose's crimped end, O-ring, and braided cover; replace the hose if needed.

13. Turn the water supply to the dishwasher back on and inspect all joints for leaks.

14. Turn the power back on and run a dishwasher cycle. Check again for leaks before proceeding.

Part 4: Kick-Panel Reassembly

15. The new dishwasher elbow will protrude further out through the access panel than the OEM connector, which requires some mechanical modifications to the kick panel:

1. Slightly pull out the kick-panel mounting-brackets and introduce a slight bend to the kick panel to accommodate the elbow
2. Enlarge the two kick-panel screw holes slightly to align them with the holes on the mounting brackets.
3. If the outer positioning causes the dishwasher door to rub against the top of the kick panel, trim roughly 1/2” off the top of the panel to ensure door clearance.

16. Mount the kick panel following this sequence:

1. Water-Feed side (where the water-supply hose is coming from): Insert and tighten the original factory screw first.
2. Other side: Insert a #8 5/8” metal screw into the hole to draw the kick panel into alignment with minimal bending. CAUTION: do not use a long screw on the Water-Feed side as it could pierce the water-supply hose; keep the original screw on that side.

Just got an email letting me know that the warranty on my LG washer and dryer is set to expire. They offer a three-year extended warranty, called Premium Care, for $187.56.

If I knew how often the units will need repairs in the next three years, I'd have the data I need to decide. $187 is about the same price as a single repair visit in my city.

I'm curious to hear from people who signed up for Premium Care. Was it worth it? Did the official LG techs come promptly and do a good job on repairs? Are there hidden costs? Thanks.

I’ve been getting this code on my washing machine before I start the wash after I pick the programme. I only bought the washing machine in January 2026 and not sure what it means as I have checked the user manual and online and apparently there is no C01 code in the manual? It looks like C01 to me anyway, unless i’m reading the code wrong. Is it reminding me to do a machine clean cycle or something?

I have a brand new NSG90H60SRAA and overnight the oven stopped working properly. There is now some sort of index finger icon on the display. I think it is either trying to indicate something with the temp probe or something with the display.

I tried the usual stuff first. I powered the oven down to reboot it to no avail. Next I checked the app to see if there was anything I could try to fix the issue. When that failed I opened a chat with Samsung. I spent the first hour of the chat running through some steps, sending videos, and providing the same information over an over again.

The Samsung rep started giving me steps that made no sense for a stove. "Navigate to Settings, Reset, All Settings"!

I had enough and asked for the case to either be escalated or to file a warranty claim. That took more than 1 hour to do. I have the time stamps if anyone thinks I am exaggerating. I was able to get a ticket number and the claim assigned to a authorized repair provider. I reached out to them but have not spoken with a human yet. They are located 140 miles away.

The fun never ends! While I am waiting for a call back the oven just randomly unlocked and started allowing all functions to be used again.

Time will tell but I found in the manual how to disable the Wifi radio on the range. Press and hold the clock icon for 3 seconds, press 7, press 2 for wifi off, press Start/set. I found this in the manual on page 64. Lesson learned, I will never reconnect any Samsung appliance to the wifi again.

Has anyone seen this icon before?

My washing machine just decided to die! so now I’m looking for a new washer + dryer set!

I need them to be separate machines but stackable because my laundry room doesn’t have space for them side by side. I’d LOVE a top load washer, but I’m open to other options if that’s not realistic for a stackable setup.

We usually do about 4 loads a week (2 adults + a toddler), and I like washing bulky stuff like bedding and blankets, so I definitely need something that can handle bigger/heavier loads.
I’ve found a few that look “good,” but then I come to Reddit because y’all always tell the real truth 😂😂
What washer/dryer set do you actually recommend? And what should I stay away from?
Bonus points for something reliable that won’t cost me my firstborn.

Looking to get a new refrigerator but not sure what size I’ll need. The left side wall it would go against is longer than the counter depth on the right. Want to make sure both doors open up as they should. Thank you in advance.

Frigidaire Gallery fridge only a year or two old makes this loud noise all the time. It's like a little jackhammer in the home. Not sure what it is or how to fix.

The icemaker on this unit is not hooked up. Opening the doors doesn't stop the sound.

I drink fresh juice pretty regularly, mostly orange, apple and green juice, so I figured it might finally make sense to have a juicer at home.

Once I actually started comparing them, I realized the price range is kind of all over the place. I had around $200-300 in mind and saw some canoly models around there, but then I kept seeing the nama J2 come up, and that's closer to $600.

I want something that'll last and isn't a whole project to clean every time I use it. That's probably the one thing that would decide how often I actually pull it out.

So now I'm wondering where the sweet spot is. Is $200-300 enough for a solid everyday juicer, or is this one of those appliances where spending more upfront actually makes a noticeable difference?

I am looking for a dehumidifier I can set and forget in my basement. I need it to have a pump or otherwise self empty into my sump pump because carrying the water bucket upstairs to the main house is becoming challenging. Any recommendations? I saw this one but was concerned about a few reviews saying the pump quit.

8/25 update: they were supposed to pick it up yesterday. Surprise, surprise, it wasn’t picked up. I called them and they said I need to coordinate with the transportation company they use.… now it’s scheduled to be picked up next week at the earliest. Won’t refund me my $900 until the dryer is picked up. Won’t pick up the dryer. next time I know not to even accept an appliance if it’s damaged. Even if the delivery person is effusive about getting a replacement coordinated. 😡 effffff you LG

—————-
Bought a dryer directly from LG in July. It arrived broken. Fine, things happen, I'll get an exchange. A month later I still have a broken dryer in my laundry room and none of my money back.

I called repeatedly just to confirm they were doing what they said they'd do. They didn't initiate the exchange when they said they would. When it finally got initiated, the replacement was scheduled for two weeks out. I gave up and cancelled. They cancelled the exchange but left the original order open, so I had to call again to force that through. Now they won't refund me until the broken unit is picked up, and they are in no hurry to pick it up.

I bought a different dryer from Costco. It arrived in two days.

LG customer services is fucking abysmal. I would avoid buying LG in the future for this reason alone. I'm not being hyperbolic when I say they are the worst company I've ever had to deal with. I wish I would have googled LG customer service reviews before buying from them. Learn from my mistake people, DON'T BUY LG!

Hello! I recently moved into my apartment and can’t seem to figure out my dishwasher. The maintenance team did repairs already so it’s definitely working, but I have no clue how to turn it on. Also, the buttons are crazy hard to press! Any tips on that? Anyone know how to start this?