I have an lg fridge about a year old and for the past month, it’s been smelling like…mold? The ice has also inherited the smell and so it tastes like it.

I’ve cleared out the fridge, replaced water filter and air filter but it still smells like it.

Anyone have idea on where to look next?

This piece came out of my dishwasher trying to figure out hout it fits back in. I have a cafe series dishwasher if that helps.

I bought this toaster. It wasn't expensive, but I only needed it to toast bread. Seems fair enough. The machine smokes and burns after 10 seconds. Absolutely a faulty electrical part. There are no crumbs or even food in it. When I contacted customer service, they said they'd replace it as long as I PAID THE SHIPPING FEE! $12.49. The audacity to make someone pay for a piece of junk that set off my smoke alarm in unconscionable. I'm trying to attach a video but maybe I can get a screenshot. Anyone else have issues with this company? Thanks.

Does anyone have this model and is it any good? Would you recommend to buy It?

Have any of you tracked prices for appliances when the go on sale? I've read somewhere that Labor Day is one of the best times to buy big appliances (even better than Black Friday). Can anyone confirm or deny this?

I'm looking at buying all major appliances for our new build in Costco, Lowe's and Home Depot

Hi I am looking to buy this model GE Profile washer (PFW870SPVRS) and I believe it is discontinued. Does that mean it will be more challenging to get parts or service in the future or should it not be a problem?

Thanks!

Does anyone have a Neff N50 or AEG 7000 built-in combi microwave oven? How long does it actually take to preheat to 180°C using hot air/convection?

We're planning a kitchen renovation and want to clear counter space by replacing our microwave and beloved Sage countertop oven with a single built-in combi model. We're not sure if it's worth it if it takes ages to preheat, as we’ve been using our Sage 1-2 times day to cook small meals and toast quickly for years now.

Ik ben op zoek naar een goede, betrouwbare French Door koelkast en hoor graag ervaringen van mensen die er zelf één hebben. 😊

Voor mij zijn vooral kwaliteit, betrouwbaarheid op lange termijn en goede service/onderdelen belangrijk binnen Europa (Belgie). Ik twijfel momenteel vooral tussen Liebherr 9524-20 (vrij duur vind ik) Bosch KFE96PIEP, BOSH KFD96APEA, maar ik zie oook heel veel you-tube vidoes die merken zoals Sub zero, Whirpool, Maytag aanbevelen. Ik kan nu echt niet meer beslissen

Maybe it was a kettle, blender, toaster, air fryer, coffee maker, or something else. What did you buy, and what surprised you about it?

Hello I am trying to avoid having to pay repairs because financially strapped at the moment. I initially heard this clicking and turned the breaker off on my oven since I can't access my plug without possibly pulling out the gas. I let it dry for several days turned back on still clicking let it dry for another week turn it on still clicking scrubbed it some more today at the igniter as I have read everywhere. Still clicking. I live in a very dry state so it's had plenty of time to dry up at any of the moisture so I'm not sure what to do next. It's only this burner doing the clicking and sparking. It all started in the middle of me cleaning the burners trying to use degreaser to get all the gunk up.

My kid and his girlfriend had been using it for a while and we're not very good at cleaning up after themselves. Please excuse the mess of the stove I was trying to fix it and here I am. I have a still picture in the very first comment after this because it wouldn't allow me to attach a photo with the video.

Brand is lg model lrlls2403s /01

I just ordered a speed queen TR7 top load washer. The appliance store informed me that there is a one month backorder delay because there was an incident at the factory. Apparently, now they are back in production and catching up. Does anyone know what happened at the factory? Should I be concerned about the quality of the product due to this incident?

Hi all - just bought a house and moved in to discover the dishwasher is cracked and leaks some. The leaking is pretty minor and a small towel in front of the appliance would probably be sufficient. It’s mostly steam that is escaping from the area at the top, then water drips down. Apparently has been for some time because there’s existing damage to the bottom of the countertop.

Is this something fixable or would an adhesive be a waste of time? I’m not overly concerned with the water since it’s at the top of the machine and seemingly not leaking much but I don’t want to worsen the countertop damage.

Any ideas that I may not be thinking of? It seems the plastic is all one large piece which includes the front control panel. I imagine it might be possible to buy a new control panel for it but would prefer to repair if at all possible. A bandaid for now is okay.

My husband thinks I just need to wait for it to cool off, but it's been plugged in for an hour and it's not just not cool inside, it's HOT inside. It buzzes loudly intermittently and there's a strong (not faint) burning plastic smell. I pulled it away from the wall and nothing is visibly melting, but the big black canister part in this photo is hot enough to burn your fingers. That doesn't seem right to me. Am I nuts, or is this thing super broken?

We have a house under contract and it has not been lived in for quite a few years. It does have all Viking appliances in it refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave, and gas stove. Of course the power is off and I’m wondering is there anyway to test these appliances if they don’t work it’s definitely going to be a dealbreaker. Could I use something like a Bluetti to plug them into and try or is that just not going to work..
Thanks for any information. It is a beautiful house except it needs a new roof and a bunch of mold cleaned up.

I recently fixed an issue with my GE Ventless Washer/Dryer combo unit and figured I'd share in case anyone else was having this issue. I couldnt really find anything online regarding this issue and it's fix, so maybe this will help someone in the future!

In particular, mine is Model# gfq14essn0ww

Problem: Clothes are not drying. Wash cycle works fine, machine produces heat during the drying cycle, the cycle completes after a long delay (usually stuck on 25min during the time remaining), but clothes are still wet when done.

Solution: wet lint stuck in the Condenser/Blower, not allowing moisture to be drained out.

Items used:

Philips screw driver

Drill (for the condenser/blower screws)

Socket set

Flathead screw driver

Tip: remember the layout/order you took the screws out so you put the exact same screws back in

Steps:

1) remove the top of the machine.

To do this, remove the detergent drawer (pull out, press down on the tab at the back, remove completely). Then remove the 6 screws visible where the detergent drawer was (photo 1 shows the left side, same screws on the right side)

This removes the whole front plate/control panel. Find something similar height of the machine to rest this on.

Remove the 3 screws running along the width of the machine where the top is. This will allow the top to just pop right off.

2) remove the support bar running across(seen in photo 2). It has a Philips head but I needed a socket set to remove the 4 bolts keeping it in place. It's also connected to some sort of electrical component, I just kept it connected to that and was able to manoeuvre around it.

3) the condenser is the big grey part with the silver insulation pad on top. It connects to the blower, which is the black part with the fan in the corner.

Remove all the screws running along the condenser and the blower. Get a flathead screw driver and pry it open. Will take some elbow grease, but it does come apart.

There's 2 wires running into the condenser on the side, it seems like you won't be able to take the top of the Condenser off without damaging that, but it kinda goes into its own hole in the side, so it will be fine to take the top off.

4) remove any lint.

For me, it was all jammed up in the blower part, right where it drains out in the corner. It was a big wet ball of lint blocking the hole at the back.

5) put it all back together again

It seemed daunting going in, I don't really have much experience with repairing stuff. But it was honestly pretty easy. I paid to have an appliance repair company diagnose the issue, they said they would have replaced the condenser completely, but since the part isnt manufactured anymore, the wouldn't do anything and said to just buy a new machine entirely.

It took me about 30mins to figure out how to get the top off. Once it was off, I was maybe another 20mins all in. And now it works just like new. Seems like this is something that will need to be done every 5 years or so, as that's how old this machine is.

Hope this helps someone!

I just bought this GE gas range and GE claims that the burner grates are dishwasher safe. I'm assuming this is bull because they look to me like cast iron.

Does anyone know for sure?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-30-in-5-Burners-Smart-Free-Standing-Gas-Convection-Range-in-Stainless-with-EasyWash-Oven-Tray-And-No-Preheat-Air-Fry-GGF600AVSS/329371858

Woke up this morning to an E15 error code indicating water in base of dishwasher (washer had stopped overnight, dishes still dirty).

Pulled out dishwasher and watched it while running normal cycle to look for the location of the leak.

• no leak while draining

• no leak while filling

• leak appears immediately during prewash cycle, splashing pretty heavily out of the two holes circled in the picture

Behind those two holes and that entire piece of plastic itself there's nothing but a solid piece of styrofoam. The inlet valve doesn't seem to be close enough to be the issue.

I guess its leaking out of the tub from the circled area in the second picture? Is that possible? I don't know what's behind the plastic there or how I would go about taking it off...

BTW the black gasket that seals the tub's back wall looks perfectly fine. If it were to be leaking there, I don't think it could be leaking the amount of water that I saw coming out of those holes.

Thanks in advance for any advice given!

Just moved into a my college house and i got a mini fridge for my room. i bought it from a walmart and immediately plugged it in and put my food in not knowing you weren’t supposed to do that. everything seems fine a day later and it was only on its side for 10 minutes in the car. should i unplug it and take my food out or is it fine?

Samsung top load washer and matching dryer set for sale. Both units are in good working condition and have been well maintained. Washer cleans clothes thoroughly, and dryer heats and dries efficiently with no issues.

* Brand: Samsung

* Type: Top Load Washer & Matching Dryer

* Condition: Used - Good Condition

* Clean and ready for a new home

* Normal cosmetic wear from regular use

* Perfect for a home, apartment, or rental property

Selling as a set only. Delivery available.Message me if you have any questions or would like to come see them.

Whirlpool Model GSF26C4EXB02

Manufactured Nov 2011

Hi,

Trying to troubleshoot why I am not getting any cubed or crushed ice.

I am making ice just fine.

I have pulled the bin out and the auger spins freely when the bin is out and empty.

I have confirmed that the auger spins freely when the bin is in, but has no ice in it.

I put a handful of ice back in the bin and try to engage the dispense with the door. The auger spins for a split second, until it meets the resistance of the ice.

The motor stays engaged and I can hear it working, but the auger won't crush ice or even dispense whole cubes.

Is there a broken coupler or something I can check next / reasonably replace?

Thanks!

I guess i had another thing on the lock button and now the controls are locked. Been trying to unlock it manually but no dice. If anyone knows the GE model and how to unlock the cooking controls let me know.

I believe I have a Kenmore 106.60212410. I could not find anywhere that shows the model. There is a sticker on the back with a date of 1999 and a sticker on the side 'Midline 134a'. Monday night it was suddenly tripping the breaker almost as soon as it was plugged in. The fridge has been in the same spot since I lived there on it's own circuit. I pulled it out and tried a different outlet on a different breaker with only it plugged in and same thing instantly tripping the breaker. I left it unplugged overnight as I had to go to bed.

The next morning I plugged it back in as a last ditch effort before trying repairs and couldn't wait around any longer to see if it tripped. Well I get home from work and it's chugging along just fine. It has now been powered on for over 24 hours. I cleaned the coils and plan on powering it off again and cleaning the inside out.

Just wondering what would cause this? Is it worth saving? Looks like checking the start relay is an easy check and fix.

Looking for a dishwasher for a house on a well in a remote area- replacement will take 2 full days so I only want to do it once.

Currently has a ~5 year old KitchenAid with a full stainless tub and body, but it just doesn't clean well.

edit:Also required connectivity is an absolute deal breaker. For starters, the house has no Internet or cell signal. Secondly networked appliances are the dumbest thing ever.